This is the craziest hobby/addiction. "I got a new gun, it works awesome, I took it apart."
Those are interesting guns.
Nice pistol Donny! That is loads better looking than the green one. Is there a place to mount a dot sight on it?
Like that pistol....like the idea of plugging off the "extra" ports.
Know you've done your research, so anything I have to say about my .22 MrodAir version is pretty well covered.
Will mentione that it took a long period of break in before the regulator started acting right, but it did get there. Which lead me to mods at first that just had to be undone after the regulator broke in, so a lot of wasted effort at first.
And will mention that
as ughly as the green grips are, in a world with plastic-friendly paint, they can be any color you care for....I went with battleship gray, and the paint has held up very well.
I laughed as soon as I saw the picture. I knew when you told you had the gun that it would be completely apart in a matter of minutes. ;D
Do you need a buddy bottle to flash fill it to make it seal? If so just let me know.
Is the valve designed so that you could put the poppet stem in a drill and lightly burnish the seat and poppet material by spinning while applying pressure to the poppet so it creates a visible contact area between the valve seat and poppet seat.
I use that method to presurface the delrin poppet seats I make for my QBs to prevent the normal short term failure of the poppets sealing surface. It works quite well to help the initial seal between the two parts till the valve cycles enough times to create it own proper sealing surface.
Mike
Is the valve designed so that you could put the poppet stem in a drill and lightly burnish the seat and poppet material by spinning while applying pressure to the poppet so it creates a visible contact area between the valve seat and poppet seat.
I use that method to presurface the delrin poppet seats I make for my QBs to prevent the normal short term failure of the poppets sealing surface. It works quite well to help the initial seal between the two parts till the valve cycles enough times to create it own proper sealing surface.
Mike
I actually tried that earlier, but there is good news now. I was correct about the regulator being the issue. I rearranged the belleville washers and the valve started sealing up soon as I hit 70-80 bar :D :D :D But wait, there's more! That put my reg set point of 110 bar roughly. I gave it some hammer spring and let it fly. 826fps with the 10.5 CPUM .177s, which comes out to 15.91fpe. Now this little gun is starting to hit it's stride. If I could get that regulator set point up to 130 bar, I feel like it would come darn close to 20fpe. I backed the hammer spring down some more, and it was shooting right around 750fps with the 10.5s. It had a nice snappy report at that velocity, and air usage seems good. I didn't run a full string, but I will in a day or two for sure. Needless, to say MISSION ACCOMPLISHED!
Now, I'm starting to feel like this PP700s-a has some real potential as a tree rat dispenser if the accuracy is there. I'm waiting on an LDC and adapter for it, before I take it outside to target/pellet testing. I am so "dang" happy I got it figured out finally! As soon as that LDC and adapter show up, I'll slap a red dot or scope of some sort on it, and see how she shoots :)
Can you post the o-ring sizes? I would like to replace the ones in mine as well. Also, what is the process of adjusting the regulator pressure (outside of re-arranging the Bellevue washers)?
Thanks,
Dan
I finally got to put some pellets on target today with the S-A , and I am pleasantly surprised. I still don't have my LDC adapter yet, but noise didn't matter where we were shooting. When I did my part, I was able to shoot a dime sized group at 25 yards. That was with a reflex sight(2.5 MOA dot). The little pistol is seems to be very accurate. I could easily hit cans at 50 yards with it on almost every shot. I was even able to shoot some little medicine containers at 50 yards with it. I also made a couple of shots on bottles at 80 yards even(remember, reflex sight). I had so much fun shooting it, that I didn't even shoot a full fill from my Bullboss. This little pistol is a hoot, and I gotta say the Truglo works very well with it. I think it is time to spend the money on some different pellets now that I know the gun is worth the trouble.This is about the accuracy I get with mine, the Green-Goblin handled version.
(http://i644.photobucket.com/albums/uu168/tiltedmonkey/0219172244n2.jpg) (http://s644.photobucket.com/user/tiltedmonkey/media/0219172244n2.jpg.html)
Mines a .177 :) if it's anything as accurate as yours is I'll be very happy. 635 with the JSB 10.34s? That's great numbers I plan on using the JSB 8.44 as I have 12 tins of them lolIt's also why I ordered up some 7.0 grain RWS Meisterkugeln WCs. As much as I love heavy pellets for squirrels, wadcutters are even more fun on sparrows. ZAP! The best part is there's a whole lot of room for tuning with the trigger, TP, hammer spring tension, and regulator all being adjustable from the get-go. SPA really delivered a great platform.
Mines a .177 :) if it's anything as accurate as yours is I'll be very happy. 635 with the JSB 10.34s? That's great numbers I plan on using the JSB 8.44 as I have 12 tins of them lolIt's also why I ordered up some 7.0 grain RWS Meisterkugeln WCs. As much as I love heavy pellets for squirrels, wadcutters are even more fun on sparrows. ZAP! The best part is there's a whole lot of room for tuning with the trigger, TP, hammer spring tension, and regulator all being adjustable from the get-go. SPA really delivered a great platform.
I think you'll be reallllllly happy with your pistol. Mine is easily my most accurate airgun- even more so than my QB-79 (heresy!).
I don't think the trigger is quite as good, but accuracy is definitely better. I've gotten tight enough groups at 15 and 20 yards to where I had to go up to my trap and look to double check. My trap has a single clip to hold targets in place, so as long as the cardboard moves, I know it's a hit.Mines a .177 :) if it's anything as accurate as yours is I'll be very happy. 635 with the JSB 10.34s? That's great numbers I plan on using the JSB 8.44 as I have 12 tins of them lolIt's also why I ordered up some 7.0 grain RWS Meisterkugeln WCs. As much as I love heavy pellets for squirrels, wadcutters are even more fun on sparrows. ZAP! The best part is there's a whole lot of room for tuning with the trigger, TP, hammer spring tension, and regulator all being adjustable from the get-go. SPA really delivered a great platform.
I think you'll be reallllllly happy with your pistol. Mine is easily my most accurate airgun- even more so than my QB-79 (heresy!).
That's great to hear! If it's anywhere close to the trigger and accuracy of my Beeman P17 I'll be thrilled which im sure it'll be even better!
I preordered the Mrodair version the other night. I am pretty excited to get this pistol in my hands. I guess their version has a bit longer barrel, regulated, and the fill pressure limit is a bit higher. At least that is what is indicated on their webpage. At any rate, I have heard nothing but great things about the accuracy of this pistol and I am interested in joining in on the 5 and 10m matches here on GTA. Unfortunately Mrodair won't get them in until March sometime, but that isn't too far away...unless you are waiting for something :o
My adapter showed up from the UK today! I did have to do a little bit of filing down the inside of the very end of the shroud for it to fit all the way down, but we're talking a 30 second fix.Nice piece of kit there! I may have to order one up. And about those power levels, sir...
(http://i644.photobucket.com/albums/uu168/tiltedmonkey/0221171516n2.jpg) (http://s644.photobucket.com/user/tiltedmonkey/media/0221171516n2.jpg.html)
Here she is all ready to go, and much quieter now(thanks to Rocker1). I should have some more pellets to test in the next couple of days. Then I'll see how it does with something besides the CPUM 10.5s
(http://i644.photobucket.com/albums/uu168/tiltedmonkey/0221171635n2.jpg) (http://s644.photobucket.com/user/tiltedmonkey/media/0221171635n2.jpg.html)
Oh, and apparently my regulator has settled in(up a little). After doing a good bit of shooting this weekend I guess the gun has hit it's stride now. I thought I had it tuned to about 740fps with the 10.5s, but I checked it today and it was consistently around 790fps. It appears to falling off the regulator around 110-115bar now. With that in mind, I cranked the hammer spring to see what it would do, and it hit 858fps with the 10.5s! 17fpe ain't bad at all for a little air pistol :D
That is a nice pistol. Also, an interesting red dot sight.
Compared to something like a TRS25 or other small tube type sight, how much higher above bore line does it seem?
Be sure to test with various weights. Mine has shot well with everything between 7.4 grains and 15.1, from RWS Hobby WC all the way up to H&N Sniper Magnums.
That same guy makes an adapter for the W model as well, and it is listed on his site. It took it a little over a week to get here. If I could get that regulator setting up more, it'd hit 20fpe I'm sure. Now, if I took the reg out of the system, who knows what it would do?! I do have some 13.4 grain pellets in route, so I'll see what they do for the fun of it :) I actually have it tuned to shoot about 14fpe right now. I don't know for sure how many shots it gets at that level, but at least 30. I'm really liking this thing for sure I just gotta get it tested with different pellets, and hopefully it will get it's first blood soon.
Be sure to test with various weights. Mine has shot well with everything between 7.4 grains and 15.1, from RWS Hobby WC all the way up to H&N Sniper Magnums.
That same guy makes an adapter for the W model as well, and it is listed on his site. It took it a little over a week to get here. If I could get that regulator setting up more, it'd hit 20fpe I'm sure. Now, if I took the reg out of the system, who knows what it would do?! I do have some 13.4 grain pellets in route, so I'll see what they do for the fun of it :) I actually have it tuned to shoot about 14fpe right now. I don't know for sure how many shots it gets at that level, but at least 30. I'm really liking this thing for sure I just gotta get it tested with different pellets, and hopefully it will get it's first blood soon.
The thing I find most amazing is mine does well with domes, hollow points, wad cutters, and pointed pellets. Hence my signature.
Im so excited to get mine!!! Yours is turning out awesome can't wait to see your testing of pellets
Here's a list of what I've tested, good accuracy being 1/2" at 20 yards, very good being 3/8" or smallerBe sure to test with various weights. Mine has shot well with everything between 7.4 grains and 15.1, from RWS Hobby WC all the way up to H&N Sniper Magnums.
That same guy makes an adapter for the W model as well, and it is listed on his site. It took it a little over a week to get here. If I could get that regulator setting up more, it'd hit 20fpe I'm sure. Now, if I took the reg out of the system, who knows what it would do?! I do have some 13.4 grain pellets in route, so I'll see what they do for the fun of it :) I actually have it tuned to shoot about 14fpe right now. I don't know for sure how many shots it gets at that level, but at least 30. I'm really liking this thing for sure I just gotta get it tested with different pellets, and hopefully it will get it's first blood soon.
The thing I find most amazing is mine does well with domes, hollow points, wad cutters, and pointed pellets. Hence my signature.
I will certainly test a few. I know the CPUM 10.5s work well
When all my pellets show up I'll be testing:
Beeman Kodiak 10.65 domes
JSB Exact Monster 13.4
H&N Terminator 7.25
H&N Barracuda Hunter 10.34
H&N Barracuda Hunter Extreme 9.57
I know that is three hollow point varieties, but I really want to find one that shoots well. I love the Terminators and Barracuda Hunters in my .22s. They lay the smack down quite well without just poking a hole :)
Donny
have you ever seen these dovetail to weaver adapters from UTG since they fit right in the weaver part of the mount and do not raise the sight any more than the screw on rail you used and would require no drilling and tapping to mount the dot sight or scope for that matter.
I have used them on several of my guns with good success. The only rails they don't fit good are ones that have a rounded surface between the dovetails (QBs as an example ) since they need a flat dovetail to work properly.
https://www.amazon.com/UTG-Airgun-Picatinny-Weaver-Adaptor/dp/B007BNHFLQ%3FSubscriptionId%3DAKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q%26tag%3Dduckduckgo-d-20%26linkCode%3Dxm2%26camp%3D2025%26creative%3D165953%26creativeASIN%3DB007BNHFLQ (https://www.amazon.com/UTG-Airgun-Picatinny-Weaver-Adaptor/dp/B007BNHFLQ%3FSubscriptionId%3DAKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q%26tag%3Dduckduckgo-d-20%26linkCode%3Dxm2%26camp%3D2025%26creative%3D165953%26creativeASIN%3DB007BNHFLQ)
Mike
Well...just going to mention, looks like MrodAir is picking up this version as the MKII.....pre-order at $200...even though I have the .22 "Kermit the frog" version, may have to consider adding this .177 version to the herd.
Good to hear. Hey by any chance Donny do you know the Oring sizes? If not that's alright but do plan on going through mine to change them all out to buna-n 70 rings. Can't seem to find anywhere to find the sizes of them. Thanks ahead of time!
Good to hear. Hey by any chance Donny do you know the Oring sizes? If not that's alright but do plan on going through mine to change them all out to buna-n 70 rings. Can't seem to find anywhere to find the sizes of them. Thanks ahead of time!
If you're on facebook, there's a group for this pistol and they have the diagrams in the "files" section(along with a lot of other info). I'm D Avery Sellars on there, and you can shoot me a friend request and I'll add you. Its a closed group. If you don't do FB, shoot me a PM with your email address, and I can email the breakdown and parts list in an attachment.
Is the PM offer open to other PP700 owners :D ?Good to hear. Hey by any chance Donny do you know the Oring sizes? If not that's alright but do plan on going through mine to change them all out to buna-n 70 rings. Can't seem to find anywhere to find the sizes of them. Thanks ahead of time!
If you're on facebook, there's a group for this pistol and they have the diagrams in the "files" section(along with a lot of other info). I'm D Avery Sellars on there, and you can shoot me a friend request and I'll add you. Its a closed group. If you don't do FB, shoot me a PM with your email address, and I can email the breakdown and parts list in an attachment.
I don't really do Facebook but I have an account I sent you a friend request!
Not a pistol guy but does make me want to play, Donny measure up that adapter doo hicky thingy from all angles and let me know, do think I can make that thingy ma jig cheaper. DavidDavid, I could send you mine to explore if'n you wanna do some custom look-see stuff... such as a longer CF shroud with more hush. Though I am fond of the terms LDC and silencer, I think I read in another thread a "sound efficiency device". LOL
Yeah, I have no doubt. I don't think I could do that again with a dot sight to be honest. I was just centering the dot in the diamond. It was covering up the holes... That is with it sending the 9.57 grain Barracuda Hunter Extremes at about 830fps. It will send the 7 grainers up to 900 me thinks :D9 1/2 grains at 830 means serious pesting. If it likes the Barracudas Hunter Extremes, I'm willing to bet it also likes the Sniper Magnums. 15 grains of Ouch, though I think I only got 540 FPS... still plenty to give a couple squirrels permanent headaches at the short distances I'm working.
Yeah, I have no doubt. I don't think I could do that again with a dot sight to be honest. I was just centering the dot in the diamond. It was covering up the holes... That is with it sending the 9.57 grain Barracuda Hunter Extremes at about 830fps. It will send the 7 grainers up to 900 me thinks :D9 1/2 grains at 830 means serious pesting. If it likes the Barracudas Hunter Extremes, I'm willing to bet it also likes the Sniper Magnums. 15 grains of Ouch, though I think I only got 540 FPS... still plenty to give a couple squirrels permanent headaches at the short distances I'm working.
Is this the same gun guys, give me some links please, awhile back motorhead took a pistol apart is this the same one?? David
http://mrodair.com/mrodair_airmax_precision_match_pcp_pistol_with_externally_adjustable_regulator (http://mrodair.com/mrodair_airmax_precision_match_pcp_pistol_with_externally_adjustable_regulator)
Got mine lastnite! Needless to say I'm impressed and shooting the JSB 8.44 in the 665fps range! I gotta mount up my red dot to see just how accurate it can be but I think it's pretty accurate. Not that loud for me and much nicer feel than the Kalibrgun ocelot I had. That gun was very wide and hefty this one feels much nicer. Trigger definitely is a little heavy for what I like but once I adjust I think I'll be very happy with it!Alrighty, glad to see you likin' it. Don't forget to try some other pellets. Mine likes... well, everything except Eun Jins 16s and oddly enough CP box 10.whatever domes. The JSB Exact heavies, H&N Sniper Mags, and Beeman Silver Arrows all groups very well in my not-so-capable hands. And with the power and accuracy it puts out, it's a short-to-mid range pesting tool. I dunno if I'd want to open up over 30 yards myself, but a good shooter could probably stretch it out to 40 or more.
I'm blaming all of you, especially the tree rat guy and I'm not leaving you out either Donny, yall on my watch list now and you know why dang it. Ill get even you bet on that lol!!!!, and Scott also(motorhead). DavidLOL, especially the Tree rat guy? Scott's thread last year is what prompted me to really look at these wonderful little PCPs.
Got mine lastnite! Needless to say I'm impressed and shooting the JSB 8.44 in the 665fps range! I gotta mount up my red dot to see just how accurate it can be but I think it's pretty accurate. Not that loud for me and much nicer feel than the Kalibrgun ocelot I had. That gun was very wide and hefty this one feels much nicer. Trigger definitely is a little heavy for what I like but once I adjust I think I'll be very happy with it!Alrighty, glad to see you likin' it. Don't forget to try some other pellets. Mine likes... well, everything except Eun Jins 16s and oddly enough CP box 10.whatever domes. The JSB Exact heavies, H&N Sniper Mags, and Beeman Silver Arrows all groups very well in my not-so-capable hands. And with the power and accuracy it puts out, it's a short-to-mid range pesting tool. I dunno if I'd want to open up over 30 yards myself, but a good shooter could probably stretch it out to 40 or more.
I'm blaming all of you, especially the tree rat guy and I'm not leaving you out either Donny, yall on my watch list now and you know why dang it. Ill get even you bet on that lol!!!!, and Scott also(motorhead). David
Got mine lastnite! Needless to say I'm impressed and shooting the JSB 8.44 in the 665fps range! I gotta mount up my red dot to see just how accurate it can be but I think it's pretty accurate. Not that loud for me and much nicer feel than the Kalibrgun ocelot I had. That gun was very wide and hefty this one feels much nicer. Trigger definitely is alittle heavy for what I like but once I adjust I think I'll be very happy with it!
The Tree Rat guy? There's worse names I guess.I'm blaming all of you, especially the tree rat guy and I'm not leaving you out either Donny, yall on my watch list now and you know why dang it. Ill get even you bet on that lol!!!!, and Scott also(motorhead). David
"Tree rat guy" LOL!!!! Now I'm gonna start thinking of Peter as Tree Rat guy, haha. So have you got The Tree Rat guy's gun yet? Did you order yourself one too?Got mine last nite! Needless to say I'm impressed and shooting the JSB 8.44 in the 665fps range! I gotta mount up my red dot to see just how accurate it can be but I think it's pretty accurate. Not that loud for me and much nicer feel than the Kalibrgun ocelot I had. That gun was very wide and hefty this one feels much nicer. Trigger definitely is alittle heavy for what I like but once I adjust I think I'll be very happy with it!
Like Peter said, it will probably like a lot of different pellets. I'm glad you like it, because I would have felt bad if you received it and thought it was a piece of junk after all this building up we've been doing :D I don't think they come in the pellet samplers, but mine LOVES the H&N Terminators(7.25 grain). I'd highly recommend giving those a try for pesting. I haven't had the chance to do any pesting with mine yet, but the Terminators are my go to in my .22s. As far as other "hunting" pellets go. Mine also likes the Barracuda Hunter Extremes(9.57grain), but it hates the regular Barracuda Hunters(go figure). The only others I've found that it likes are the Crosman 10.5 domes in the can. I haven't tried nearly as many pellets as Peter has though.
It took my reg a good 150-200 pellets to start settling in for what its worth, but that won't matter much for closer range stuff. I'd try to find a red dot that is less than 5MOA if I were you. That 5MOA dot covers a lot of real estate, but a 2.5 or 3 MOA dot has worked very well for me.
Yeah I'll need to try some of those for sure! Stole a red dot from another plinker and I didn't like it at all could shoot one hole groups but wasn't comfortable even while rested. Rested shooting with the iron sights I shot just as good groups and it is really liking the 10.34 JSBs. So I'm going to keep it open sights for now! However am going to get a sampler for it. Oh also adjusted the trigger and much better than before! I'm REALLY liking this gun.Mine liked those JSB Exact Heavy 10.34. In fact, every .177 I own that likes them likes the H&N Sniper Magnums and the Silver Arrows as well. I wish I took the chance to send some JSB Ultraschocks at some paper, on account of those being a pretty awesome
Mr Donny can you post a shot string, don't think the reg is working in peters gun starts around 650 and climbs to 780, I'm going to have to hide it so I can get some work done. And yes I have one on the way. DavidDavid- I've found the first 6 or 7 shots act weird- almost like a typical knee-curve. Like the reg is settling in. Once it does, the string is pretty solid and it runs steady. Though in retrospect, now that I think about it... that is NOT what a reg should do. I only shot it over my Caldwell once so I never bothered worrying cuz it shot well otherwise. My Alpha Chrony always got Err 1 when I tried using it so I skipped the chrony testing.
Have you all seen this? (http://taiwan-airgun.com/en/product_description.php?PNo=105)Ditto. I'll be emailing them just 'cuz.
Looks like a rifle based on the same design! I would definitely buy that.
Mr Donny can you post a shot string, don't think the reg is working in peters gun starts around 650 and climbs to 780, I'm going to have to hide it so I can get some work done. And yes I have one on the way. David
HAve posted somthing like this before.
When I started with the .22 "Bugger" grip version, the regulator wasn't really working all that well.
Even I, who have an appreciuation of funtion over form, couldn't stand the "bugger" grips and painted them. Might be better today, as AirMax does offer the black grips sperately (but I will say, in a world of plastic-friendly spray paint, you could make them any color you care for).
"Bugger grip":
(http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t50/ribbonstone/e850f10b-b3e1-447f-a9d4-2057d3671526.jpg) (http://s157.photobucket.com/user/ribbonstone/media/e850f10b-b3e1-447f-a9d4-2057d3671526.jpg.html)
Painted grip (and it still looks like this, soit wears well if you dn't warn any rings on your shooting hand):
(http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t50/ribbonstone/d7b83762-d34c-484b-b5b6-c259c7732af3.jpg) (http://s157.photobucket.com/user/ribbonstone/media/d7b83762-d34c-484b-b5b6-c259c7732af3.jpg.html)
Of coruse, being as it has easily twittled screw adjustments,. I twiddled the screws (both the hammer spting and the transfer port).
BY about shot 200-250, I had twiddled the screws up and back down to very slose to where the pistol started. Because it is regulated, held the "good" shots to those 2%.
So that was all "wasted" effort, adn I just ran around in a circle until the regulator broke in and started acting like a regulator.
(http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t50/ribbonstone/4bef7840-5a08-40c6-b20b-d95ad2545e39.jpg) (http://s157.photobucket.com/user/ribbonstone/media/4bef7840-5a08-40c6-b20b-d95ad2545e39.jpg.html)
Found this pistol does NOT care for tuning under 10.5 foot pounds or over 15 foot pounds, but between those two limts, can be relied on to manage a total of 500-520 foot pounds. Y
It's very dependable adjustments, noting unexpected appening, once the regulator breaks in and starts acting like a regulaor. You can have that in 50-52 shots (about 10 foot pounds per shot) or in about 32 shots (about 16 foot pound shot).
All in all, I'd say to just shoot 5 or 6 fills while IGNORING the chronograph, then get serious about tuning it.
Have you all seen this? (http://taiwan-airgun.com/en/product_description.php?PNo=105)
Looks like a rifle based on the same design! I would definitely buy that.
Did try it as a stocked carbine for a short while, just to better see what the non-pistol potential really was. Pretty darned good, but there is no reliable/easy way to attach an kind of stock to the thin walled plastic grips (of either color).
The pictured rifle version, if it ever really makes it to market, even in 10meter type speeds, will have a buyer...like the design of the system that much.
I'm with you my friend, I have a pistol on the way and I have the tree rat's pistol here and I really like it and could see in a rifled version being a real hoot . David>sigh<
Just ordered an MK II in .177 from mrodair. Now the hard part, waiting for it. One thing I didn't think about until after I ordered it, and haven't seen anything about, is filing it. Is it a foster fitting, or will I need some kind of adapter for my pump?Like Dillon said, you attach the fill probe to your pump, pump it up, grab some pellets, and proceed to be surprised and thrilled. Accurate enough for making tiny holes in paper but enough power in both calibers for limb-chickens if that's your thing.
Just ordered an MK II in .177 from mrodair. Now the hard part, waiting for it. One thing I didn't think about until after I ordered it, and haven't seen anything about, is filing it. Is it a foster fitting, or will I need some kind of adapter for my pump?I can't vouch for how they come from MRodAir, but from Krale (and likely Aceros) you get some spare O-rings, the probe, and the typical fold-out leaflet of information along with your pistol. Welcome to the club!
Did try it as a stocked carbine for a short while, just to better see what the non-pistol potential really was. Pretty darned good, but there is no reliable/easy way to attach an kind of stock to the thin walled plastic grips (of either color).
The pictured rifle version, if it ever really makes it to market, even in 10meter type speeds, will have a buyer...like the design of the system that much.
I'm with you my friend, I have a pistol on the way and I have the tree rats pistol here and I really like it and could see in a rifled version being a real hoot . David
After ordering on the 3rd, mine finally shipped from Spain today.
Already got the simmons 2-6x32 scope, Rocker1 LDC (Thanks Dave!) in hand...waiting....glad I get to work from home and camp the front door the day of delivery!
Does anyone know if the .22 version is more/less accurate, or about the same, as the .177? I have a .22 cal order and trying to wait patiently for it to arrive, should be here next week.I don't see where there would be any difference in accuracy. Donny (Rallyshark) bought the .22 IIRC and reported good accuracy.
Does anyone know if the .22 version is more/less accurate, or about the same, as the .177? I have a .22 cal order and trying to wait patiently for it to arrive, should be here next week.I don't see where there would be any difference in accuracy. Donny (Rallyshark) bought the .22 IIRC and reported good accuracy.
My recommendation would be to purchase a Chronograph if you don't have one. It will make tuning and adjusting your pistol much easier. And be sure to have a good sampling of pellets, though if you end up like me, you'll be able to feed it a bunch of different "flavors" to good effect.
Well heck-darn, I'd say you are well-prepared to provide us the details once you start making one raggedy hole in your target at 30 yards.Does anyone know if the .22 version is more/less accurate, or about the same, as the .177? I have a .22 cal order and trying to wait patiently for it to arrive, should be here next week.I don't see where there would be any difference in accuracy. Donny (Rallyshark) bought the .22 IIRC and reported good accuracy.
My recommendation would be to purchase a Chronograph if you don't have one. It will make tuning and adjusting your pistol much easier. And be sure to have a good sampling of pellets, though if you end up like me, you'll be able to feed it a bunch of different "flavors" to good effect.
Lol one step ahead, had the front for a while now, handy for a few different guns, and a straight shooters sample pack. I was just curious if anybody had seen any significant differences between the 2 calibers as far as accuracy is concerned.
Well heck-darn, I'd say you are well-prepared to provide us the details once you start making one raggedy hole in your target at 30 yards.Does anyone know if the .22 version is more/less accurate, or about the same, as the .177? I have a .22 cal order and trying to wait patiently for it to arrive, should be here next week.I don't see where there would be any difference in accuracy. Donny (Rallyshark) bought the .22 IIRC and reported good accuracy.
My recommendation would be to purchase a Chronograph if you don't have one. It will make tuning and adjusting your pistol much easier. And be sure to have a good sampling of pellets, though if you end up like me, you'll be able to feed it a bunch of different "flavors" to good effect.
Lol one step ahead, had the front for a while now, handy for a few different guns, and a straight shooters sample pack. I was just curious if anybody had seen any significant differences between the 2 calibers as far as accuracy is concerned.
Cuz it will happen. :D
I hate all of you. Who started this??? Donny!!! David
Does anyone know if the .22 version is more/less accurate, or about the same, as the .177? I have a .22 cal order and trying to wait patiently for it to arrive, should be here next week.I don't see where there would be any difference in accuracy. Donny (Rallyshark) bought the .22 IIRC and reported good accuracy.
My recommendation would be to purchase a Chronograph if you don't have one. It will make tuning and adjusting your pistol much easier. And be sure to have a good sampling of pellets, though if you end up like me, you'll be able to feed it a bunch of different "flavors" to good effect.
I am looking for a manual for this pistol or trigger adjustment and disassembly instructions. I have searched but just keep coming up with links for reviews and sales. Thanks.
Does anyone have a good scope recommendation for these pistols? I own a truglow red dot, but thinking about keeping it on the current pistol and scoping this one to squeeze the most out of it that I can.Just about anything works- I've used a Tasco 2.5-10 Target Varminter (wayyy too big!), a CP red-dot, a cheapo reflex, and a Otimus 3-9x32.
I actually put my hands on a Simmons and Bushnell 4x pistol scope today, both were nice but after looking through them it made me wonder about how difficult it would be to shoot them free-hand when compared to the red dot sights, I ended up going ahead and ordering the 2x42 2.5 MOA TruGlo, for the price I figured it wouldn't hurt...if I don't care for it on the pistol I can put it on my 2400kt and give it a little better red dot.
I actually put my hands on a Simmons and Bushnell 4x pistol scope today, both were nice but after looking through them it made me wonder about how difficult it would be to shoot them free-hand when compared to the red dot sights, I ended up going ahead and ordering the 2x42 2.5 MOA TruGlo, for the price I figured it wouldn't hurt...if I don't care for it on the pistol I can put it on my 2400kt and give it a little better red dot.
Cool, let us know how you like that 2x sight! I was eyeing those as well at one point. It seems like it should be a great option.
I adjusted the trigger and added a shoe. Things will need to be polished, it is better but still stiff.
How are you guys getting status updates from Aceros de Hispania?
On the 8th, I received a confirmation email but when I logged into their site today, I can't see any evidence the order is in the system. For example, under "All Orders" it says "You have no order". I'm not concerned about getting ripped off, just hoping someone can confirm they were able to see their order...or that they couldn't but received their order anyway.
Took 8 days for mine, did get the fedx email but had to translate it, I finally just typed the tracking number in search and understood it better. I was surprised it got here that fast. David
Good deal, I guess I just need to wait. I'm betting that they're probably overwhelmed with orders after this thread and running behind.
It took me almost a week to get a tracking number from Aceros, then it took 3 days from Madrid to Charles de Gaulle airport, 1 day to the US, and now its indefinitely stuck in Philidelphia. Pfffft.
Dang that stinks, I wonder what the hold up is in Philly, how long has it been sitting there?
Mrodair is only about 150 miles from me. And I've received all four airguns within three days of making the order. Have another one coming which should arrive by UPS today. Just wondering why order from some other country what is available here? And if a problem comes about how are you going to solve it? Do you speak their language? In any case good luck and keep reporting your experience. That's how we all learn:) Charles
Mrodair is only about 150 miles from me. And I've received all four airguns within three days of making the order. Have another one coming which should arrive by UPS today. Just wondering why order from some other country what is available here? And if a problem comes about how are you going to solve it? Do you speak their language? In any case good luck and keep reporting your experience. That's how we all learn:) Charles
Mrodair is only about 150 miles from me. And I've received all four airguns within three days of making the order. Have another one coming which should arrive by UPS today. Just wondering why order from some other country what is available here? And if a problem comes about how are you going to solve it? Do you speak their language? In any case good luck and keep reporting your experience. That's how we all learn:) CharlesValid points, Charles. I ordered my PP700 from Krale-Shietsport, not MRodAir. Like others, I read both favorable and non-favorable reviews about the latter. I know their website is uncomfortable for viewing for my eyes, and presentation/ease of ordering is big for me. About the gun itself...
Hey guys, thanks for all the info about how your orders were handled. And to you, CJ, for confirming the same issue with their online order history.
Turns out just this morning got an email from Aceros saying the order has shipped so hopefully it won't get hung up. I'm not sure when I'll get a chance to put it through the paces but I'm still looking forward to its arrival.
Got into the trigger today. Cleaned out the original grease and sticky lube and polished the contact spots. It isn't a match trigger but it is night and day better now.My trigger was a little stiff/sticky in the first stage, and the second was imprecise, but I never tore into it. I couldn't leave it alone long enough to dig into (it's the one airgun that I shot just about daily). Even though SPA claims the pistol is considered a "Match grade" airgun, I was dubious since the trigger is nowhere near as crisp as the one on my P-17 or even the QB-79. Yeah, mine's the PP700W, but functionally they're the same.
While I had the grip off I whittled down the notch the breach rotates into. Makes it much easier to load.
I want to buy a PP700. But don't know which one. :-\
PP700W (green handle round shroud.) PP700S-A (black handle square shroud)
What are the difference? What er the effects of that difference. (sound, accuracy, recoil, power)
I want to use the gun allround. With a scope.
I want to buy a PP700. But don't know which one. :-\
PP700W (green handle round shroud.) PP700S-A (black handle square shroud)
What are the difference? What er the effects of that difference. (sound, accuracy, recoil, power)
I want to use the gun allround. With a scope.
I never owned the original pp700's (green handle) but the newer pp700sa has a slightly longer barrel and shroud, a longer rail for mounting optics, and from my understanding a more comfortable grip (or at least for folks with smaller hands like myself). Other than that I don't think there are any real differences.
I want to buy a PP700. But don't know which one. :-\Same basic gun. The green-booger is a hair quieter. The only reason I can see to buy the one with open sights is if you want open sights. It costs more if ordered from overseas, and I'm a cheap guy. Aceros-de-Hispania had the black-handled model with open sites longer than they've had the green-booger model, so I ended up buying mine from Krale half a year ago. Whichever gun your choose, you cannot go wrong, especially since MRodAir now has the black handle-grip for sale separately. Which means I'd mostly likely buy the green-booger from Krale then buy the grip separately, but that's just me.
PP700W (green handle round shroud.) PP700S-A (black handle square shroud)
What are the difference? What er the effects of that difference. (sound, accuracy, recoil, power)
I want to use the gun allround. With a scope.
I want to buy a PP700. But don't know which one. :-\Same basic gun. The green-booger is a hair quieter. The only reason I can see to buy the one with open sights is if you want open sights. It costs more if ordered from overseas, and I'm a cheap guy. Aceros-de-Hispania had the black-handled model with open sites longer than they've had the green-booger model, so I ended up buying mine from Krale half a year ago. Whichever gun your choose, you cannot go wrong, especially since MRodAir now has the black handle-grip for sale separately. Which means I'd mostly likely buy the green-booger from Krale then buy the grip separately, but that's just me.
PP700W (green handle round shroud.) PP700S-A (black handle square shroud)
What are the difference? What er the effects of that difference. (sound, accuracy, recoil, power)
I want to use the gun allround. With a scope.
Incidentally, mine is only a .177 and it makes very short work of squirrels. It has a preference for heavier pellets, which makes squirrel headshots that much moreentertainingsatisfyingeffective.
I've got a black one in .22, doing 40 shots at 13fpe. Perfect for backyard starlings....
Mine is in .22 at well, getting 35 shots 14.6fpe and popping black birds out at 35 yards with a steady rest using a 2x Truglo red dot.
a 7.25 grain pellet moving about 900fps.
Mine is in .22 at well, getting 35 shots 14.6fpe and popping black birds out at 35 yards with a steady rest using a 2x Truglo red dot.
That is really impressive. Any idea how flat of a string you are getting? Any tips on tuning for power?
Mine is in .22 at well, getting 35 shots 14.6fpe and popping black birds out at 35 yards with a steady rest using a 2x Truglo red dot.
Note: the Truglo is the only red dot that I've seen that has 2x and a 2.5 MOA dot that was under $100
Don't have the MkII version, still not finding anything to complain about the "bugger grip" version (other than painting the green grip).
They do seem to be the same over all length, so if the barrel is longer and the shroud skinnier, it's going to be louder. From the pixs posted, not really sure if the MkII shroud is "active" or just a housing with no venting at the muzzle. Will freely admit, the black grip/rectangular shroud version is a nicer looking pistol, and if I hadn't already gotten the "bugger grip" MkI version, I'd likely be waiting on the MK II version.
All I can say about the .22 Mk 1 shroud is that it is active, but of a limited volume, and the pistol starts getting a bit loud much past 11-12 foot pounds. Decently back yard friendly under 11 foot pounds (lets say a 15.9gr. @ 560fps) with the issue shroud....kind of loud much past that point.
Last time I shot cronied, 2 weeks ago, I was sitting at a 680fps average, sd of 2.4fps, es of 9fps over 36 shots then a sharp drop of 17fps less and then 36fps further down.
Last time I shot cronied, 2 weeks ago, I was sitting at a 680fps average, sd of 2.4fps, es of 9fps over 36 shots then a sharp drop of 17fps less and then 36fps further down.
Awesome! Thanks for the tips! I definitely need to try harder with mine, then. Those are excellent numbers.
Last time I shot cronied, 2 weeks ago, I was sitting at a 680fps average, sd of 2.4fps, es of 9fps over 36 shots then a sharp drop of 17fps less and then 36fps further down.
Awesome! Thanks for the tips! I definitely need to try harder with mine, then. Those are excellent numbers.
Thank you, I wish you the best of luck. I believe a more skilled, or should I say more knowledgeable, person could get even more out of it. This is completely stock, no mods yet. I keep contemplating going in and doing the Hatsan style J.B. weld valve mod that Donny (Rallyshark) did. Just not sure how much it'd change things and if I'd like it, pretty happy with it right now..pretty sure it's my new favorite gun lol
I'm reading bad things about the O-rings. Zo i want to buy better spare one zo i don't have te wait for them when the gun is leaking. I only find O-ring on Ebay.From what I've read the trigger mechanisms also come with cheap grease on them too, I might just completely disassemble mine
Are they any good. Or are there better. When i know the sizes i can oder them at work, food grade compound and thuff.
What will be the best compound voor PCP guns?
Thanks for the O-ring sizes!
Jason, have you got any trigger time with yours yet?
Jason, have you got any trigger time with yours yet?
Just a little. I've shot it just enough to know it likes the JSB 8.4gr well enough to send them through the ear of a chipmunk at 30 yards. :) I haven't done any tinkering with it though.
I got it mainly as a compact squirrel and chipmunk gun that I can grab for targets of opportunity of the singular kind. Sort of a...one shot, one kill, then everything scatters and stays away for 30 minutes. For extended hunting and pesting sessions that involves multiple potential targets, I prefer to stick with a rifle for the extended range and quietness. So I'm trying to resist the urge to put an LDC on it and just enjoy it for its compactness and accuracy in true pistol proportions.
so, anybody hear any updates from Mrodair on the MKii version? Last I heard he was supposed to be getting them in on the 23rd. Anyone who's ordered from Mrodair before, can I expect a tracking number once it ships, or will it be a surprise when it shows up?He emailed me back and said when they ship them they'll be shipped UPS, he also said they'd be there on the 23rd, if they made it there on the 23rd hopefully they'll be shipped soon, they haven't shipped mine yet because anytime I have a UPS package coming I find out when it's shipped.
I'm reading bad things about the O-rings. Zo i want to buy better spare one zo i don't have te wait for them when the gun is leaking. I only find O-ring on Ebay.
Are they any good. Or are there better. When i know the sizes i can oder them at work, food grade compound and thuff.
I'm reading bad things about the O-rings. Zo i want to buy better spare one zo i don't have te wait for them when the gun is leaking. I only find O-ring on Ebay.
Are they any good. Or are there better. When i know the sizes i can oder them at work, food grade compound and thuff.
Here is the size list I made from the schematics I got from another source, and I attached the pdf:
PART NO. SIZEmm QUANTITY
6 12x1.5 1*
11 14x1.5 1*
13 16x1.5 2*
24 7x1.5 1*
25 15.5x1.5 2*
31 8x1.5 2*
33 11x1.5 2*
35 27x3.1 2
I ordered a full set from the o-ringstore as well. They do have minimum quantity requirements, but it still only cost me like $10-11 dollars to order all the ones listed. I will note that I was unable to find a 27x3.1 o-ring, but I did find a 27x3. I haven't tried to install it to know if it will work.
Increase the hammer spring a turn and shoot a few strings. See if that doesn't make it behave a bit. Also, you can snug down the reg adjustment screw a bit. Mine showed up with that pretty loose. It does take it 150-200 rounds for the regulator to settle down a bit as well. It is common for the first shot or two after filling to be low. I usually do 2-3 dry fires after filling myself.
Quick?De gas the gun and there is a small set screw that you need to loosen and adjust the face of the valve out to take up clearance for the breech seal, might take 5 mins. David
My 700w showed up today. So far so good but, I have a slight breech leak. Toilet paper puffs up but doesn't blow off. Anyway, what the best approach to get the breech block a smidge tighter? The breech seal looks good, I don't think it's the problem.
So far the Chrony numbers look ok for out of the box. I don't think the little leak is hurting much, still, I want to eliminate it if I can...
Quick?De gas the gun and there is a small set screw that you need to loosen and adjust the face of the valve out to take up clearance for the breech seal, might take 5 mins. David
My 700w showed up today. So far so good but, I have a slight breech leak. Toilet paper puffs up but doesn't blow off. Anyway, what the best approach to get the breech block a smidge tighter? The breech seal looks good, I don't think it's the problem.
So far the Chrony numbers look ok for out of the box. I don't think the little leak is hurting much, still, I want to eliminate it if I can...
Rallyshark,
Not being able to really tighten the barrel is troubling me. You added a set screw to hold the little breech plug. If you had to do it again, would you?
I nearly drilled and tapped both of my guns for an M3 set screw last night....just want to make sure I'm not making a mistake.
My Airmax PP700SA showed up Tuesday and I've been having a lot of fun with it. I've been getting good velocities right out of the box. I took it out in the woods today with just the open sights and I knew they weren't worth a darned after that episode. There's no adjustment for elevation at all :( . When I got home I mounted a CP 2X pistol scope on it to see just how accurate it is and it's more accurate than I am on the window sill. I'm not crazy about the scope, I know it's going to take a lot of getting use to but it is more accurate than a red dot (old Barska). I'll be taking it back out in the morning for some more fun.
The instructions that came with it give you no details at all how to make adjustments and I do know that you can adjust about everything on this from what I've seen. I think it needs to breath better through the transfer port because in the 30 shots it slowly climbs in velocity and shot 29 & 30 you can tell is falling of the reg because by that time it's down to 80 bar. So far I've got about 150 shots through it.
(http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae312/giant056/Airguns2/MKII.scoped.jpg)
Rallyshark,
Not being able to really tighten the barrel is troubling me. You added a set screw to hold the little breech plug. If you had to do it again, would you?
I nearly drilled and tapped both of my guns for an M3 set screw last night....just want to make sure I'm not making a mistake.
I absolutely would do it again! It is easy, and doesn't mess with anything :)
Donny last night I found out there's not much to adjust for the TP (it was opened all the way) but I did tweak the reg a little and it didn't take much to really bring up the velocity, right now I'm getting 16.4 fpe with the JSB 15.89's. It's going to be a while before I head back out to the woods (only 44 out right now) but in the meantime I'm going to do a string with the JSB 18.13's just out of curiosity. I haven't had this gun apart yet but just looking at the threads inside that transfer port block there's room for improvement right there for smoother air flow. I think I've got the reg at max output because it's dropping off the reg at about 110 bar which is fine for a gun like this. True I'm only getting a 20 shot string now but it's worth it for now but there's definitely room for improvement. Eventually I'll probably mod the valve like you did but not right now.
Parts for this gun might be kind of tough to get I'm thinking so for now I'm going to just leave the valve as is until I see some parts available for this gun.
I'll post a shot string of the JSB 18.13's soon 8)
Wayne, that's plenty of ooomph for small pests out to as far as a pistol is practical. Also like hearing your trigger is working in. They're not as perfect as the P-17's trigger, but it gets the job done reliably.Pete I got first blood with it this morning, I'll be posting in the hunting gate soon
I really need to get a .22 to accompany my .177.
I just posted on the MRodAir thread about the trigger work I did this morning. I believe it is now about the same as the P17's I have and I think it could be safely made a little lighter still. No creep, 2 lbs 7 oz.My trigger has about the same pull but it's really smooth.
I still have one seems everytime i get the adapter made and ldc some,one wants it, but thats ok i acturally havent made a profit for on any of these little guns but boy did I feed the addiction lol. DavidThis is a bad addiction I must admit and these pistols definitely aren't a cure for the addiction lol, my latest aim is acquiring a stainless steel fill probe because mine is getting dings from the ball bearings in the fill whip. I did find one but it's made in England and as of now you can't buy them from them.
I still have one seems everytime i get the adapter made and ldc some,one wants it, but thats ok i acturally havent made a profit for on any of these little guns but boy did I feed the addiction lol. David
Last I knew you could still get them a couple dollars cheaper shipped from overseas than what the sale at Mrodair hadI purchased one of my MK II's from Europe and it turned to be $2.00 more with shipping than MrodAir's sale price of $219.00. I received it in exactly 7 days even though it was in customs for two days. Except for the names they are exactly the same. Bob
Kid, you could try putting some silicone grease on the o rings. I'm not a fan of fill probes for that reason alone. I'll be looking to convert to foster fitting as soon as possible.
Kid, you could try putting some silicone grease on the o rings. I'm not a fan of fill probes for that reason alone. I'll be looking to convert to foster fitting as soon as possible.
I can do without a gauge on it, I have one on my filling devices anyways. Probably just put foster on the end of the tube.
You guys please be patient I am over whelmed with orders for the adapters and ldcs, never in the past couple of years have I not been able to ship next day but I cant now. I assure you I will take care of you. David
Thanks John, That's what I needed to know. I saw what looked like a small grub screw (#42) on the diagram but couldn't tell what it attached to. For some reason I thought the grub screw attached to the breech block instead of the breech. I'm glad I asked because I probably wouldn't have known which way to turn the valve once I got to it. Since I have to degas and take it apart, I think I'll take the opportunity to clean up the contact points on the trigger group. Mine came very gritty with several places it was dragging. I'm going to see if I can get a friend of mine to translate the diagram. That might help in future work. Shelleen
You guys please be patient I am over whelmed with orders for the adapters and ldcs, never in the past couple of years have I not been able to ship next day but I cant now. I assure you I will take care of you. DavidDavid you make some quality stuff, I'm sure everyone understands your predicament (especially with the bunch of guns shipped from Mrodair), I'm sure most of the guys will be accustom to patience after ordering from Mrodair. I personally am very happy with the adaptor and LDC I got from you, you were right about this gun, it's very addictive indeed and a heap of fun 8)
John, Thanks for that second bit of information. I ordered a Park 2 pin wrench from Amazon last night but got impatient this morning and made my own from a piece of coathanger wire. Took me 5 minutes and worked fine for this job (didn't even have to remove the hammer). I loosened the grub screw you mentioned and turned the valve COUNTER CLOCKWISE but that seem to make the breech block looser. I turned it CLOCKWISE until it bottomed out against the breech block. The breech block was still loose but seemed a little tighter then when I turned it COUNTER CLOCKWISE. I tightened the grub screw, filled with air and was still getting a good size leak from between the breech and breech block. Are you sure it's supposed to be turned COUNTER CLOCKWISE?
When I turned it CLOCKWISE it went in and bottomed out against the rear of the breech block like this. Did I turn it the wrong way?
(http://i1240.photobucket.com/albums/gg484/MacKenrick/Targets/PP700%20Valve_zpsipulqd6y.jpg) (http://s1240.photobucket.com/user/MacKenrick/media/Targets/PP700%20Valve_zpsipulqd6y.jpg.html)
Here's the coathanger pin wrench I made:
(http://i1240.photobucket.com/albums/gg484/MacKenrick/Targets/Pin%20Wrench_zpsds1atgcs.jpg) (http://s1240.photobucket.com/user/MacKenrick/media/Targets/Pin%20Wrench_zpsds1atgcs.jpg.html)
Thanks John, I must have had a "Senior Moment" (seems like they've been more like "Senior Days" lately). You wrote CW but my brain register CCW. They say "With old age comes wisdom".... well in my case, old age came all by itself. :( I like the mod. you did to correct the problem with the valve bottoming out before the breech block was tight enough. I'm going to have to do the same thing with mine. You made a small washer (shim) from some .015" (or was that mm) metal and made it about 1.5 to 2mm in diameter (slightly smaller then the diameter of the breech plug?). You then placed this shim over the end of the reduced end of the barrel and slipped the breech plug (is that part #5 in the diagram?) back over the top of it. Is that correct? The shim pushes the breech plug further out the back of the breech so the washer seals tighter against the breech block? I can see how making a small shim like that would be a pain.
Thanks for this information. If you and I are having this issue then there may be others that are having the same problem. Those that aren't as knowledgeable about working on airguns (like myself) will find this information very useful I'm sure.
If I've understood correctly the shim (red circle on diagram) is place over the breech end of the barrel as shown below and gets sandwiched between the barrel and #5 (breech plug?).
(http://i1240.photobucket.com/albums/gg484/MacKenrick/Targets/PP700.explodedview%20X_zps7erwrygt.jpg) (http://s1240.photobucket.com/user/MacKenrick/media/Targets/PP700.explodedview%20X_zps7erwrygt.jpg.html)
Very interesting-thanks for this information as I have just begun shooting mine and do notice some breech leakage. How difficult would it be to increase the groove diameter for a slightly larger breech o-ring?
Does 9 fpe sound about right for the .177 PP700 ? I finally got to run a few 7g RWS hobby over the chrony.. 745-750 seemed pretty much the avg. I was just wondering if anybody else had an unmodded .177
to compare to. 660 fps for 10.5 g piranhas.
I'd like to get my .177 up to 12 ft lbs for Field Target shooting. Still gotta go through the trigger first.
Breaking down my pistol this afternoon. Pulled the small grub screw out to remove the valve. Park tool can only spin the valve maybe 60 degrees counterclockwise and that's it. Lefty loosy, righty tighty. Right?
Got the air tube off, and I'd like to look at the regulator. Does the adjustment screw hold it onto the breech block?
So how do I get the valve out without breaking something?
This is me every time I get a new gun,lol! My poor Bullboss was completely apart within hours of me getting it from PA :D
Just ordered one yesterday from Mrodair, really wish I would have read this entire thread beforehand... Probably would've gone with Krale.You'll like it I'm sure, they're a super accurate pistol, it takes about 100 shots I'd say to get the regulator on them to settle in(in my case it did) I've really been having a lot of fun with mine 8)
Looking forward to playing around with it in the little spare time I have. Figure it'll make a great night rat gun.
Hey Wayne, Have you had any blow out issues at the breech on yours yet ? I just started noticing it.No I haven't Mitch, I've been using the heck out of it too, last night I was doing some chrony testing with it again with different pellets, I haven't had any problems with it at all.
Just ordered one yesterday from Mrodair, really wish I would have read this entire thread beforehand... Probably would've gone with Krale.I picked mine up from Krale last year- mine's .177 (the green handled thing) and it has been an absolute blast. I sent mine to Rocker1 as a testbed for an LDC adapter- quite happy with the result, though I think I'm going to drop my power level.
Looking forward to playing around with it in the little spare time I have. Figure it'll make a great night rat gun.
It has arrived! Gotta say, I'm impressed with the quality so far. I've got some plans for it...Another
It's shooting between 640-700, faster than I expected.
It has arrived! Gotta say, I'm impressed with the quality so far. I've got some plans for it...Glad to see you got your gun already, if Mrodair has them in stock I think they get right on top of shipping when the orders come in by the looks of your example, it's only been 10 days since you posted that you ordered it 8)
It's shooting between 640-700, faster than I expected.
And I still think these little buggers would be magical with a .25 barrel. Yeah, it would be relatively slow- about like a .25 springer... which is perfect for short range on medium size things.
It has arrived! Gotta say, I'm impressed with the quality so far. I've got some plans for it...Glad to see you got your gun already, if Mrodair has them in stock I think they get right on top of shipping when the orders come in by the looks of your example, it's only been 10 days since you posted that you ordered it 8)
It's shooting between 640-700, faster than I expected.
You guys gave me the first ever worthwhile reason to consider joining Facebook.
Didn't look bad or shoot bad, just wasn't a great idea.the grip isa the worst place to attach a stock. as noted there is no meat there. Im working on a full carbine stock for it (actually the second attempt, the first one proved my concept but was ugly as <insert street slang here>....... pics later tonight or tomorrow
(http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t50/ribbonstone/ffda1b15-e97d-421e-a5e7-f6ce283c253b.jpg) (http://s157.photobucket.com/user/ribbonstone/media/ffda1b15-e97d-421e-a5e7-f6ce283c253b.jpg.html)
Mounting to the grips I'd have to pass on. Plastic grips are pretty much a hollow shell and the plastic used isn't the strongest, so am pretty sure one good moderate bump would crack/shatter the grips when there is that long a lever attached.
LOL, I still haven't joined.You guys gave me the first ever worthwhile reason to consider joining Facebook.
Lots of groups on FB for air gunners and other shooting sports. just dont do the stereotypical FB stuff and you'll be fine......
Have you all seen (http://taiwan-airgun.com/en_upload/product/photo_l_144402240607.jpg)
Looks like a rifle based on the same design! I would definitely buy that.
Jeez!!! I am going to quit reading this thread. David
Okay, so if I'm reading this right, Donny... you're getting a 20 FPE tune on a .177 pistol that has only 67 CC volume and it's good for ~ 20 shots? On the regulator?
Needless to say, that's really impressive.
And I still think these little buggers would be magical with a .25 barrel. Yeah, it would be relatively slow- about like a .25 springer... which is perfect for short range on medium size things.
LOL, I still haven't joined.You guys gave me the first ever worthwhile reason to consider joining Facebook.
Lots of groups on FB for air gunners and other shooting sports. just dont do the stereotypical FB stuff and you'll be fine......
Though my wife and I were joking about creating one for our Boston Terrier.
I'm throwing around the idea of getting another PP700 (ordering it and an HW-30) from Krale specifically to have a .25 barrel for it. I cannot think of any pistol that would be easier to convert given the configuration.
Nice! I really need to drag the dremel out and open things up a bit...
Wow, very impressed with this gun! Much higher quality than I expected(better than Kral...).My own experience, plus David's (Rocker1) and Wayne's mimic these.
I haven't shot at paper yet, but a friend and I were shooting small pine cones at 40 yards standing with the open sights. Granted we only hit them maybe 50%
of the time, but all the shots were very close. I even grazed a hanging golf ball at 60 yards. It seem to shoot both the CPHP's and JSB 15gr's good.
Can't wait to get a stock and some optics on it. My original plan was a 12-14" LW barrel, but I'll hold off till I see how it groups. It definitely needs a good moderator.
Wow, very impressed with this gun! Much higher quality than I expected(better than Kral...).
I haven't shot at paper yet, but a friend and I were shooting small pine cones at 40 yards standing with the open sights. Granted we only hit them maybe 50%
of the time, but all the shots were very close. I even grazed a hanging golf ball at 60 yards. It seem to shoot both the CPHP's and JSB 15gr's good.
Can't wait to get a stock and some optics on it. My original plan was a 12-14" LW barrel, but I'll hold off till I see how it groups. It definitely needs a good moderator.
I've got one in the works. You should buy one, it's a blast even without a stock.
I've got one in the works. You should buy one, it's a blast even without a stock.
I've got one in the works. You should buy one, it's a blast even without a stock.
+1
Riverboat, if a pcp pistol appeals to you at all this is the one. It's small and light enough to be an actual pistol...
In contrast, my Marauder "pistols" aka Prods are far better carbines than pistols. Simply to big and heavy.
It will take an extraordinarily designed stock to make me buy one for either my MKI or MKII. I'm simply enjoying them far to much as pistols ;)
This morning before I went hunting I did a string with my latest adjustments, I had the regulator set too high for the hammer and the hammer was maxed.
I backed of on the regulator a little and now I'm really seeing this regulator work better in the gun, I'm calling this my sweet spot for this gun. I must
admit the more that I use the gun the better the trigger is (by far now), Rocker was right about these guns they're a lot of fun.
(http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae312/giant056/Airguns2/MKII.latest.string.jpg)
I've got one in the works. You should buy one, it's a blast even without a stock.
+1
Riverboat, if a pcp pistol appeals to you at all this is the one. It's small and light enough to be an actual pistol...
In contrast, my Marauder "pistols" aka Prods are far better carbines than pistols. Simply to big and heavy.
It will take an extraordinarily designed stock to make me buy one for either my MKI or MKII. I'm simply enjoying them far to much as pistols ;)
Yeh I understand this is definately more of a pistol than a Marauder "pistol". But for my purposes this thing will be great as a pistol and even better a carbine than the Marauder. It will be even more backpack or kayak friendly in either form than a Marauder. Plus I am kinda thinking about the 177, hard decision.
Ah... you all have prompted me to spend more $. Just ordered from spain.
So is the only real difference that cover that goes over the barrel on the mrod air one? Knowing me I'll have one ordered by the end of the month. Krale is sold out of .22 still don't know which I want.
Haaaaa ! Way to go Darin!!! :P
You will have a blast. It's EVERYTHING you wished your 1377/1322 could be and more for 200 dollars ! I have had mine for a month-ish and I am still grinning. I got mine in .177 and I think I am also going to order a .22 just for kicks. By the amount of traffic on these few pp700 threads... they are popular. It fits so darn good in your hand and it's a very good looking gun IMHO. I have mine set up at 10-ish FPE with polymags and with JSB Exact. I know I can milk more out but I am in no rush. Wayne has been clobbering chipmunk after chipmunk with his .22. We are going to have to start a new room just for all the dead chipper photos these guns are going to generate.
Really want the one with the black grip , just looks awesome to me. Couldn't find it besides mrod airs site. Thanks
Opted not to go with Mrodair this time 'round. Ordered the .177 from Spain. Once again it's time to play the waiting game.From what I've been seeing it takes about 10 days from Spain.
Need some help with a loose barrel problem on my PP700S-A
I was getting ready to put on one of Davids LDCs and I unscrewed the retaining nut (not sure of the correct name) off the end of the barrel that holds the shroud on. I put the LDC adapter on but the barrel kept spinning so I couldn’t tighten the shroud to the receiver. I read where Schultz drilled and tapped his breech so he could put some set screws in to keep the “breech sleeve/beech plug” (not sure what to call it) tight and be able to screw in the barrel tight.
My barrel is very loose and moves back and forth inside the breech but I can’t tighten or loosen it because that darn “breech sleeve/plug” just spins around. As far as I can see there is nothing to anchor it and keep it from spinning free. I’m guessing it was supposed to be a pressure fit but the tolerance was too loose and it just spins around now.
So now I can’t take the barrel off or tighten it down. Sure could use some advice on what to do. If I could break the barrel free from the “beech sleeve/plug” and remove it from the breech, I could do like Schultz did, tap the breech and put in set screws to hold the sleeve/plug in place.
Thanks for your help. Shelleen
Tried something a bit different for the pp700 today. As many have noted with their pistols, I had some breech leakage. To tighten the breech, it had been suggested that the valve could be removed and some material removed from its base to allow it to screw in further. This has been done by at least one poster and works fine. I decided to try a different route thinking that removing material from the valve base is irreversible and would to at least some minor degree reduce plenum volume. I had some 0.4 mm thick metal that I used to make a shim to go between the breech block and the head of the valve. A picture of the shim is below. The square corners sit on top of the frame and locate it to prevent rotation but are probably not necessary. I also made a slightly lighter valve spring to replace the stock spring inside the valve and drilled the transfer port hole on the breech face to match what I could measure at the base. I leave the TP adjusting screw at the point where it doesn't restict the port and is as flush inside as possible and try to tune with regulator adjustment and hammer spring preload. Cleaned everything up (quite a bit of metal shavings on the valve body), lubed original o-nngs, reassembled, and filled to 200 bar.
Result-
No noticeable breech leak
Holding pressure after refilling to 200 bar
Velocity reached 885 to 895 fps range with 7.33 AA-wasn't shooting for group so I didn't check
Still a lot to figure out about fine tune on these things. I noticed that once a stable velocity was reached that increasing (screwing in) the regulator would sometimes drop velocity but then increasing hammer spring preload would take velocity higher and above the original stable point. The 885-895 range was the best I could attain today but I only had an hour or so to play around with it.
Got a stock built. This my second attempt, as the pistol's format is some what different than say a 1377 or a Disco.....
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v301/dan_house/20170611_203348_zpsb3srctmc.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v301/dan_house/20170611_203236_zpsq72e0ab2.jpg)
And this is the heart of the build. HERE is where your build precision skills are tested, and where the final quality of the build will be determined.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v301/dan_house/20170607_193656_zpswihvstw4.jpg)
Still need to mount optics and create a cheek riser. An adjustable buttpad is required, as you'll never the ergonomics of it right enough, and you may need to adjust for the shooter
Thank you so much for the reply John. You're a life saver. I thought I was going to have to try to drill and tap the breech with the "sleeve" or "breech plug" still in the breech which would probably involve actually drilling a little into the sleeve. Removing the valve/breech block and taking the sleeve/barrel out the back sound so much easier (I hope). Two questions: What's the best way to degas the gun safely? What size grub screws did you use and what was the distance from the back of the breech to where you drilled the hole? Or did you put two screws in?
Thanks again for the information. I was really hoping you would respond to this question since you have already taken this thing apart and tapped the breech to anchor the sleeve. Shelleen
See my post above for a quick and easy way to degas the pistol. Not my idea but I couldn't find the original post so thanks to that poster for the idea-works great.
Tried something a bit different for the pp700 today. As many have noted with their pistols, I had some breech leakage. To tighten the breech, it had been suggested that the valve could be removed and some material removed from its base to allow it to screw in further. This has been done by at least one poster and works fine. I decided to try a different route thinking that removing material from the valve base is irreversible and would to at least some minor degree reduce plenum volume. I had some 0.4 mm thick metal that I used to make a shim to go between the breech block and the head of the valve. A picture of the shim is below. The square corners sit on top of the frame and locate it to prevent rotation but are probably not necessary. I also made a slightly lighter valve spring to replace the stock spring inside the valve and drilled the transfer port hole on the breech face to match what I could measure at the base. I leave the TP adjusting screw at the point where it doesn't restict the port and is as flush inside as possible and try to tune with regulator adjustment and hammer spring preload. Cleaned everything up (quite a bit of metal shavings on the valve body), lubed original o-nngs, reassembled, and filled to 200 bar.
Result-
No noticeable breech leak
Holding pressure after refilling to 200 bar
Velocity reached 885 to 895 fps range with 7.33 AA-wasn't shooting for group so I didn't check
Still a lot to figure out about fine tune on these things. I noticed that once a stable velocity was reached that increasing (screwing in) the regulator would sometimes drop velocity but then increasing hammer spring preload would take velocity higher and above the original stable point. The 885-895 range was the best I could attain today but I only had an hour or so to play around with it.
, how hard was it to get the correct inletting to fit properly
Thought I had it in the above post. Can't take credit for it but I don't remember who told me, maybe Rallyshark. Take a plastic or rubber hammer and tap the back of the pistol hammer. It takes a series of taps over a couple of minutes but it does degas it pretty quickly. Regulator flows out slowly so need to give it time to be sure all pressure is out.In trying to isolate and repair a small leak I had to fill and degas my MK II many many times and after the third go around I found it easier to degas it by just pushing the hammer hard, not banging it, against the edge of my work bench and it would degas out the barrel in two seconds. It takes a lot less effort than I thought to press the hammer in and hold it. Bob
I want mine to be a solid 1 piece stock out of laminated wood,
I want mine to be a solid 1 piece stock out of laminated wood,
YEs that would be way cool.... Just take a lot of measurement, draw it out a lot, then redraw it again... Thinkit thru and it shouldnt be that hard....
Donny I never did that mod, it didn't seem to need it, when I installed the Rocker LDC & adapter it snugged up nicely.
Ok, going to order this, just need to decide between mrodair and that Spanish website. $234 from Spain vs $269 mrodair. Having a us distributor incase issues arise would be nice, idk how good there support is though as I never used them.If it's the PP700S-A it's the same exact gun! I would like to see Mike from Mrodair give the same $234 deal because I'm sure that his orders would rise considerably but that's his business. If he was selling them for $239 shipped I'd order another one from him and who knows I might even get the .177 ;) I admit that I was getting very anxious when I got the preorder but it was well worth the wait and a very good deal for a great gun.
Also all that special built to their specs stuff listed on Mrod air, is it just a trick to make it sound like theirs is more special then others? Or do they really have different features?
Have to figure out if a want a bug buster or pistol scope now as well. :)I have been tempted to put the Bugbuster I've got on my Prod right now (really love that scope) but without the long eye relief that's so handy with a pistol I'm more tempted to get a better pistol scope than what I've got.
I'm pretty sure they're all the same.I have both that I received within a day of each other and the only difference that I found, after stripping them both 100% down, was that the European one had a 3mm set screw in in bottom of #21 - Moveable Connector (PP700s-a Schematic) and the Mrodair one didn't. This set screw prevented the breech door from closing too far and allows a positive TP alignment. Other them that I could not see or measure a difference between the two of them. Bob
I highly recommend getting a good stainless probe (especially if you're a paper puncher) because the original brass (way too soft) won't hold up long.He did a great job on the fill probe But will say stainless is not very easy to work with and time consuming work. David
Here's one that I ordered from TRRob less than a week ago and it came in the mail yesterday. If I had a lathe I'd start making them myself ;)
(http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae312/giant056/Airguns2/fillprobes.jpg)
Have to figure out if a want a bug buster or pistol scope now as well. :)I have been tempted to put the Bugbuster I've got on my Prod right now (really love that scope) but without the long eye relief that's so handy with a pistol I'm more tempted to get a better pistol scope than what I've got.
I'm pretty sure they're all the same.I have both that I received within a day of each other and the only difference that I found, after stripping them both 100% down, was that the European one had a 3mm set screw in in bottom of #21 - Moveable Connector (PP700s-a Schematic) and the Mrodair one didn't. This set screw prevented the breech door from closing too far and allows a positive TP alignment. Other them that I could not see or measure a difference between the two of them. Bob
Keep up the good work with the stocks.
Keep up the good work with the stocks.
working on the next couple versions.... but they keep calling the house and wondering why Ive not come to work,a dn the wife is yelling to mow the grass...... Geezzz people I got real work to do!!! :)
wimpanzee,
Is that Rocker1's new LDC design? How's the noise level?
Need some help again. I’m starting to working on my son’s PP700S-A and can’t get the shroud end nut off. It is on TIGHT. I made a pin wrench from small coat hanger wire that worked fine on my PP700S-A but it’s not strong enough to break loose the really tight shroud nut on my son’s gun. Anyone have ideas on what I can use to break this loose or what tool I might buy that will work. I have two Park Tool Pin Spanners, but the pins are both too big. I think the pin’s I need have to be around .088” in diameter. I’ve tried needle nose pliers but the nut didn’t budge. I had even put a couple of drops of WD40 on it hoping the oil would penetrate the threads over night and loosen them. No luck. Thanks, Shelleen
Need some help again. I’m starting to working on my son’s PP700S-A and can’t get the shroud end nut off. It is on TIGHT. I made a pin wrench from small coat hanger wire that worked fine on my PP700S-A but it’s not strong enough to break loose the really tight shroud nut on my son’s gun. Anyone have ideas on what I can use to break this loose or what tool I might buy that will work. I have two Park Tool Pin Spanners, but the pins are both too big. I think the pin’s I need have to be around .088” in diameter. I’ve tried needle nose pliers but the nut didn’t budge. I had even put a couple of drops of WD40 on it hoping the oil would penetrate the threads over night and loosen them. No luck. Thanks, Shelleen
This is the craziest hobby/addiction. "I got a new gun, it works awesome, I took it apart."
Those are interesting guns.
wimpanzee,
Is that Rocker1's new LDC design? How's the noise level?
Yes, that is Rocker1's MKII LDC, I believe. I have one of the originals as well, and this model makes significantly less noise. Not silent, but defintely backyard friendly at 14fpe in .22.
Any impact difference with and without the rocker 1? I don't hunt with them around here, only yard and basement shooting. I like to practice after work and that at 2 am so need to be quiet.
Have to figure out if a want a bug buster or pistol scope now as well. :)I have been tempted to put the Bugbuster I've got on my Prod right now (really love that scope) but without the long eye relief that's so handy with a pistol I'm more tempted to get a better pistol scope than what I've got.
After trying two pistol scopes, and a 2x30 red dot sight, I found NCStar has a 2.5x pistol scope with 10.5" (http://www.opticsplanet.com/ncstar-pistol-long-eye-relief-scope-2-5x30-pistol-scope-blue-ring-spb2530b.html) eye relief. In reality, I am finding the eye relief to be useful at anywhere from about 8 to 12 inches. It is pretty generous. I threw that on with a UTG offset QD mount (https://www.amazon.com/UTG-Integral-Offset-Mount-100mmBase/dp/B00CJ7F6Z6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1497619068&sr=8-2&keywords=utg+offset), and it is really nice. I am able to be substantially more precise than when I had the dot on there, even though the magnification is nearly the same - the scope is a lot clearer and brighter.
The offset mount keeps the scope away from the loading area. The eye relief is perfect for bent elbows, and as I intend this for a woods pistol, it should work well for leaning on a tree and whatnot.
Still got that truglo 2x30 dot if anyone is interested in buying it from me. It's a nice sight!
Pic with the scope and mount:
(http://wimpanzee.duckdns.org/airguns/pp700/pp700s-a_scope.jpg)
Thanks Matt and Mike. Matt, I just made a cross county move so my vice isn't mounted yet but I used your idea but with a large pair of vice grips instead. For the pins, I cut two small lengths of the small coat hanger wire (I was wrong it's about .075" in diameter). Worked great. Mike, thanks for your suggestion. I'm going to make one like you suggested for future use. Sounds a lot more sturdy then the coat hanger wire. My Park Tool pin wrench (SPA2) with the approx. .095" diameter pins, works fine for removing the valve.
Jim, the pics aren't showing up for me and I really want to see it!Struggling to share external links here! New to this forum, seems the pics are veiwable to a few but not all??? Help?
&^^&, I still can't see anything ???
Those show up for you guys?I can see em fine sawtoothscream... Cheers for the assist bud.
(http://i.imgur.com/1JwN4iR.jpg)
I have one in 177 that Motorhead did his magic on and its been setting for months and has a red dot scope any idea what its worth Im not shooting it and will put on classifieds. Also has Rocker1 LDC. Shame its just setting here going to no use.
Well.... placed order on 6/11 and here they are 6/21. Ten days from Spain. I like these, so handy; a quality product. Cant wait to gas them up and shell some bugs. Interesting contrast between the two generations of this pistol.From what I can tell, they are not different generations; both have been available all along from Aceros de Hispania. The "2nd Gen" thing is an MRodAir misnomer. When I ordered mine from Krale last year, only a couple people had 'em and I knew from the get-go I was scoping mine on account of being a lousy pistol shot. Incidentally, you can buy the black grip from Krale now if you have the green-handled one. I may do so just cuz :D
I got a little Ghog with mine today ;)Doing work with yours. Can't wait for mine to arrive.
Had an unusual issue with the pp700 today that may affect others. The two long screws that hold the aluminum handle frame to the body of the pistol are not blind drilled-they are drilled into the hammer pin channel. I had a tough time getting my hammer pin back in after doing some more valve work today until in noticed that those screws were actually penetrating into the channel that the hammer pin fits in. What changed from my initial disassembly to this point is uncertain but the first time I took it down the screws weren't really tight and the hammer pin came out very easily. But today if the screws were tightened first and then the hammer pin was placed the pin would hit the end of the screw. If I put the hammer pin in first and then tightened the screws they jammed the hammer pin. All I can think of is there was just enough wear under the screw head to allow it to go in a little deeper or maybe some casting flash had been holding the handle frame a little high off the pistol body. In any event, the issue is potentially there and could cause a problem for anyone working on the pistol. I ended up taking a few thousandths off the end of the two long screws to solve the problem.
On a better note, I had drilled the valve spring adjusting cup/screw out a bit to improve flow (thanks to Rallyshark for the idea) and had made a lighter valve spring a few weeks back. Apparently, I went a little too light on the preload for the new valve spring because the pistol vented all air about halfway through the charge (around 110 bar)-the hammer spring pressure was holding the stem in. I took the valve back out and tightened the cup/screw a few turns until the stem would just compress fully into the valve body (no coil bind). Results were consistent 930-940 fps with AA 7.33 gr. Falcons. I shot it down to just about 80 bar when the air vented again. Seems to be a very good balance of valve spring and hammer spring at this point. Didn't think to monitor shot count since that isn't really a concern for me but it must have been better than 30. It shot several bughole groups at 15 yards with groups staying under an inch out to 30 yards. I'm more than happy with this pistol at this performance level. Still looking at the HW44 as well but their price is now a little steep.
Had an unusual issue with the pp700 today that may affect others. The two long screws that hold the aluminum handle frame to the body of the pistol are not blind drilled-they are drilled into the hammer pin channel. I had a tough time getting my hammer pin back in after doing some more valve work today until in noticed that those screws were actually penetrating into the channel that the hammer pin fits in.
Had an unusual issue with the pp700 today that may affect others. The two long screws that hold the aluminum handle frame to the body of the pistol are not blind drilled-they are drilled into the hammer pin channel. I had a tough time getting my hammer pin back in after doing some more valve work today until in noticed that those screws were actually penetrating into the channel that the hammer pin fits in. What changed from my initial disassembly to this point is uncertain but the first time I took it down the screws weren't really tight and the hammer pin came out very easily. But today if the screws were tightened first and then the hammer pin was placed the pin would hit the end of the screw. If I put the hammer pin in first and then tightened the screws they jammed the hammer pin. All I can think of is there was just enough wear under the screw head to allow it to go in a little deeper or maybe some casting flash had been holding the handle frame a little high off the pistol body. In any event, the issue is potentially there and could cause a problem for anyone working on the pistol. I ended up taking a few thousandths off the end of the two long screws to solve the problem.
On a better note, I had drilled the valve spring adjusting cup/screw out a bit to improve flow (thanks to Rallyshark for the idea) and had made a lighter valve spring a few weeks back. Apparently, I went a little too light on the preload for the new valve spring because the pistol vented all air about halfway through the charge (around 110 bar)-the hammer spring pressure was holding the stem in. I took the valve back out and tightened the cup/screw a few turns until the stem would just compress fully into the valve body (no coil bind). Results were consistent 930-940 fps with AA 7.33 gr. Falcons. I shot it down to just about 80 bar when the air vented again. Seems to be a very good balance of valve spring and hammer spring at this point. Didn't think to monitor shot count since that isn't really a concern for me but it must have been better than 30. It shot several bughole groups at 15 yards with groups staying under an inch out to 30 yards. I'm more than happy with this pistol at this performance level. Still looking at the HW44 as well but their price is now a little steep.
I have scoped and unscoped mine a dozen times. It really is sweet all naked and pure. Enjoy it !
I have scoped and unscoped mine a dozen times. It really is sweet all naked and pure. Enjoy it !
Was fun just shooting the iron sights free hand. Going to play around with my 3-7 rifle scope, pistol scope and red dot. Can't wait to go after red squirrel this weekend :).
The 3-7 came with my hatsan. The pistol scope is a 2.5 nstarUp until I think it was 2015 any rifled air pistol in Michigan had to be registered in order to buy it, even the .177's, then it went to about anything goes, also the LDC's were also legalized on them recently too, now we can even hunt deer with them but it needs to be pcp 35 cal or larger.
Think I might get along better with the rifle scope, 99% of my shots will be off shooting sticks in the field.
As for the ldc,. NY is a really dumb place when it comes to guns. My gun range is a mile from my house and idc if it's loud while hunting. So not going to test my luck, don't have much to start with lol. Plus NY has airguns listed has firearms. Think they don't care if the airgun comes with it but throwing a adaptor on the gun and a screw on unit is probably enough to get them excited.
The 3-7 came with my hatsan. The pistol scope is a 2.5 nstarUp until I think it was 2015 any rifled air pistol in Michigan had to be registered in order to buy it, even the .177's, then it went to about anything goes, also the LDC's were also legalized on them recently too, now we can even hunt deer with them but it needs to be pcp 35 cal or larger.
Think I might get along better with the rifle scope, 99% of my shots will be off shooting sticks in the field.
As for the ldc,. NY is a really dumb place when it comes to guns. My gun range is a mile from my house and idc if it's loud while hunting. So not going to test my luck, don't have much to start with lol. Plus NY has airguns listed has firearms. Think they don't care if the airgun comes with it but throwing a adaptor on the gun and a screw on unit is probably enough to get them excited.
Anyone have a tuning guide for this? The instructions that came with mine don't have really anything about tuning or where the adjustment are done.I searched for a youtube video when I first got the the gun but couldn't find anything really specific but after looking over the exploded view I pretty much figured out where all the adjustments could be made. I've always been reasonably mechanically inclined however. I got that pdf that someone posted for english parts. It's the best pdf I've seen out there.
This is the craziest hobby/addiction. "I got a new gun, it works awesome, I took it apart."
Those are interesting guns.
The thread that was posted for the English pdf of the P700S-A was done by wimpanzee
https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=128048.0 (https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=128048.0)
and you even posted in this thread sawtoothscream, it was before you ordered yours though
What do we search for for the facebook group again? I requested being added but must've been denied and I cannot find the group anymore. I guess I ticked somebody off...I doubt you ticked anyone off. The admin of that group is very particular about adding people is all. Find me on Facebook(D Avery Sellers), and shoot me a message so I'll have your name. I will let him know you want to join, and he'll add you :)
I was subscribed but I ended up unsubscribing, facebook is &^^& IMO. That group that I was in was the same one, I use to go on facebook quite often but not so much anymore, it can end up becoming more of a chore rather than enjoyment.This pistol is one of the only reasons I ever considered joining Facebook, but I enjoy this place more, the technical information is superb, and this way I don't have to join FB, so itza Win for me.
I was subscribed but I ended up unsubscribing, facebook is &^^& IMO. That group that I was in was the same one, I use to go on facebook quite often but not so much anymore, it can end up becoming more of a chore rather than enjoyment.^^^^^^ so true. There is not enough pistols on earth to get me on facebook. Scurge.
What do we search for for the facebook group again? I requested being added but must've been denied and I cannot find the group anymore. I guess I ticked somebody off...I doubt you ticked anyone off. The admin of that group is very particular about adding people is all. Find me on Facebook(D Avery Sellers), and shoot me a message so I'll have your name. I will let him know you want to join, and he'll add you :)
I’m still trying to figure out how to reduce the extreme spread on this gun but did find one thing that has been throwing me off. I filled to 150 bar and the hammer spring is at about two full turns out from fully tightened. As I shot the string, I noticed much higher velocities when I waited 60+ seconds between shots instead of the average 20 seconds between shots. I then started making notes when I waited longer and when I shot sooner. There was as much as a 100 fps or more difference between shots. I began purposely waiting about 60 seconds between some shots and also waiting only 20 seconds between shots and noted each shot. In the string below the W prefix is when I waited about 60 seconds between shots and no prefix I waited only about 20/30 seconds. I’m guessing the first 619 and 429 fps could be the gun settling in or it could be the time it took between filling the gun and taking the first shot (high fps) and shooting the second shot within 20 seconds (low fps).I've never tested mine like you have but by the sounds of it the reg is allowing air to leak past it into the valve. Every now and then I'll put a drop of silicone in my fill probe before filling to insure all the o rings are sealing properly, my guess would be there is an oring leaking but really don't know for sure. I have noticed when I let my gun sit overnight the first shot is unregulated after sitting. I have it set right now for a really good 20 shot shot string for hunting and it does a pretty good shot string. As stated much earlier throughout this thread the orings that come with these guns are very cheap and in all reality I should have probably replaced all of mine with good quality orings from the get go but I was just having so much fun with it I never got around to it. Eventually I'll take my spare set of orings that came with the gun and match up a good set of Buna N orings for a complete oring set for the gun prior to disassembly. Being sooo much fun this gun is hard to put down long enough just for an unneeded oring replacement plus the performance of mine has been so good that I find no need of it yet.
619. 429. 479. 475. 453. W616. 551. 434. 499. W521. 481. W544. 474. 477. 479. W568. (110 bar). 468. W536. W521. 466. W559. W536. W587. (100 bar). 479. 473. W545. 481. 496. 502. W546. 498. W584. W576. W589. W606. 501. (50 bar) W586. W578. W565. Error. W540. W494. W467. W442 (30 bar).
Not counting the first two shots, the shots where I waited only 20/30 seconds averaged around 482 fps. and the shots where I waited about 60 seconds averaged around 563 fps.. Almost 81 fps difference between the two. I know very little about how a regulator works so any information on why I’m getting this difference when I wait longer between shots will be appreciated. Does it have something to do with the plenum? Since I did the 20 second and 60 seconds shots, it may be a little hard to tell when the shots fall of the regulator but if anyone has a decent guess, I’d appreciate that too. Also, can anyone tell if my hammer strike is still too light, causing a rise in velocity when it goes of the regulator. I’ve already increased it by one and a half turns (CW) and the pull is up over 4 lbs. now.
Jason, do you think that the inherent small size of the belleville springs in this unit could be the cause of the issues many have noted with regulator function? I have read of some people trying to polish the edges of each individual belleville washer to provide smoother function. It seems that smaller belleville diameters might "mate" less well along their contact edges, especially the outer diameters, than larger ones might and maybe this is a factor in the noted regulator variability.
Is it possible that...setting them up something like this (((|))) would be more stable for a higher power level? I haven't had mine down to that point yet but anything that could be done to improve the situation if I do go into the regulator would be helpful.
I’m still trying to figure out how to reduce the extreme spread on this gun but did find one thing that has been throwing me off. I filled to 150 bar and the hammer spring is at about two full turns out from fully tightened. As I shot the string, I noticed much higher velocities when I waited 60+ seconds between shots instead of the average 20 seconds between shots. I then started making notes when I waited longer and when I shot sooner. There was as much as a 100 fps or more difference between shots. I began purposely waiting about 60 seconds between some shots and also waiting only 20 seconds between shots and noted each shot. In the string below the W prefix is when I waited about 60 seconds between shots and no prefix I waited only about 20/30 seconds. I’m guessing the first 619 and 429 fps could be the gun settling in or it could be the time it took between filling the gun and taking the first shot (high fps) and shooting the second shot within 20 seconds (low fps).
619. 429. 479. 475. 453. W616. 551. 434. 499. W521. 481. W544. 474. 477. 479. W568. (110 bar). 468. W536. W521. 466. W559. W536. W587. (100 bar). 479. 473. W545. 481. 496. 502. W546. 498. W584. W576. W589. W606. 501. (50 bar) W586. W578. W565. Error. W540. W494. W467. W442 (30 bar).
Not counting the first two shots, the shots where I waited only 20/30 seconds averaged around 482 fps. and the shots where I waited about 60 seconds averaged around 563 fps.. Almost 81 fps difference between the two. I know very little about how a regulator works so any information on why I’m getting this difference when I wait longer between shots will be appreciated. Does it have something to do with the plenum? Since I did the 20 second and 60 seconds shots, it may be a little hard to tell when the shots fall of the regulator but if anyone has a decent guess, I’d appreciate that too. Also, can anyone tell if my hammer strike is still too light, causing a rise in velocity when it goes of the regulator. I’ve already increased it by one and a half turns (CW) and the pull is up over 4 lbs. now.
Good points, Jason. Probably should have been a little more specific in my goals. I'm looking for maximum usable velocity before accuracy is lost and trying to eliminate those initial throw away shots that Donny mentioned. I like to be able to pick up a pistol (or rifle or whatever) and have reliable first shot accuracy. More important for my type shooting than good strings afterwards even though you certainly want that as well. It well may be asking too much of an airgun to reach this point but if I can accomplish this at the mid 930+ fps velocities I've currently got with the pp700 then I'll be happy. My thinking on the spring stack was to eliminate these type contact points () as much as possible even if it narrowed the usable regulator range. That's why I had the straight one (|) in the layout-thinking it might keep edges from clicking or binding somehow. When I take the pistol down to try the barrel bushing change I'm looking at then I'll go into the regulator and polish the edges and check that spool/diameter relationship.
As mentioned about the regulator spool diameter, I've used versions of these belleville springs which are almost certainly larger diameter (about nickel size) on some RC truck slipper clutches. There is a relatively small input shaft that they fit over and you will notice after running that they do become staggered in relation to each other and effect clutch engagement. That is the possibility that I'm wondering about with the ones in this pistol since it seems they are probably even smaller but they may be well aligned by the spool. Thanks for the information and maybe I need a shaft liner on the RC clutch to keep those aligned.
would like to have those over 600fps as thats hunting legal in NY
would like to have those over 600fps as thats hunting legal in NY
That shouldn't be too hard to accomplish :D Tighten down the reg adjustment a bit, give it a little more hammer spring, and make sure the transfer restrictor is all the way out. That should put you over the 600fps mark.
So where exactly is the transfer restrictor? Is that the one on the top of the loading port block?Yep!
Ok, it's flush with the top of it. Is that wide open?Yes, that is wide open. You can actually turn it in a little , and it will still be wide open. There's some wiggle room in that one. Give the regulator adjustment about 1/4-1/2 turn CW(tighten), then pull off your grip, and get out the chrony. Adjust the hammer spring and see what ya get.
Has anyone came up with a size/kit for the orings on this gun yet ??? At the Menard's here in town you can pick Buna N orings individually and buy them super reasonable.
That is a good idea Donny and I have thought of it but I always fill to 200 out of habit. Will certainly try that and check some first shot results. Probably not something you or sawtooth would necessarily want to do but I removed the transfer port restrictor screw, ported that lower area of the breech block to remove restrictions (threads, corners, etc.) as much as possible and blended a smooth curve in the vertical to horizontal transition area. Then I put a "concave bevel" on the edge of the screw (much like an auto pistol feed ramp) to match the transition area from the vertical to the horizontal part of the channel. I had never planned to tune with the restrictor screw and thought this might smooth out airflow a bit. It would be easy enough to replace with another screw so it isn't something that couldn't be reversed other than the porting part of the work.
Especially when you've got the AG apart. You want to get everything done at that time because although we'll probably take it apart more than a couple of times, who really looks forward to doing it? I mean we kind of look forward to trying new things, but really, a complete strip down? It's hobby but sometimes it feels laborious.
This may be a stupid question but taking the air cylinder off after a degas, how does the regulator come off the block? I couldn't unscrew it with my hands and didn't want to get out my rubber strap wrench. Is that what it takes? And man, are you guys having an IMPOSSIBLE time trying to turn the screw when adjusting the regulator? I've got a large set of metric and standard keys but none seem to fit as you're forced to go at it at an angle. Is it just mine?
Try this image I borrowed from the facebook group. This is of a W model, but the parts are the same.Thanks for the fantastic inside pic of the P700 Donny !!!
Turning the regulator screw in (CW) does raise velocity (if balanced with hammer spring spring pressure) so it must be increasing "setpoint. I'm absolutely not a regulator expert and haven't disassembled that far into the pistol yet but it seems you view the regulator function the same way I do. I do view the transfer port utility differently. It seems that increasing the regulator and hammer spring to increase available air flow and then turning the transfer port in to reduce it would be counterproductive to a degree-"wasting air" so to speak. I decided initially (after reading all threads on the pistol) to port and set the transfer port open for maximum flow and then tune with the regulator and hammer spring. Could be entirely off base as to how the system functions but it has worked very well for my pistol (highest effective velocity desired) with it providing 930+ fps with 7.33 gr. .177 and excellent accuracy.
Try this image I borrowed from the facebook group. This is of a W model, but the parts are the same.Thanks for the fantastic inside pic of the P700 Donny !!!
One more thing, I ordered that stainless fill probe from T Robb and it arrived but was made too big. It won't fit in any of my female foster fittings. The O.D. on the male foster is too big. I'm not gonna try to sand it and don't want to have it turned down at work. Anyone else have a problem with theirs? I've emailed T Robb a few times over the past week with no response.
Hopefully, David or somebody will start making some probes for these guns stateside. I think David has been pretty swamped though. I haven't heard much out of him as of late. I noticed my probe was getting a little finicky when swapping it out last time I used it too. It is nowhere near non-functioning or anything, but given the problems others have had, one may be in my future.
I've just tested a different approach to the breech sealing issue that also provides better barrel tightening and can be done without a lathe (although a lathe would provide a superior final result) if you have a drill press, a set of drill bits, and a dremel with some basic cutting tools-
Go to Lowes/Home Depot and get a nylon 1/2" spacer with a .250 hole through it's length. I got several at 1" but I believe 1/2" length is also available. You also need an 8 mm 1.0 pitch tap and a bolt of the same size with several nuts to go on the bolt. Also needed is a 3mm x 6mm o-ring.
Drill the hole in the center of the nylon spacer larger until it is just smaller than the tap diameter (I did this by hand and don't recall the exact sizes of bits that I used but start with the first size that won't pass through the .250 hole and increase the size until you can get the tap started). Tap the inner hole to the 8/1.0 thread (this is the threading on the barrel itself). Cut the head off of the bolt. Then you can screw the nylon piece onto the bolt using a couple of the nuts to set depth on the bolt and chuck the bolt into a drill press. Then while spinning the bolt in the drill press use a dremel and a sanding drum to begin turning down the outer diameter of the nylon piece until you get a tight fit into the barrel bushing hole (it measures .473 if I recall correctly). I used a coarse sanding drum until I got it close then started with a fine file to smooth the outer diameter and I tried to have a little "taper" with the inner end of the nylon piece slightly narrower than the outer end. It will take some time to shape this nylon piece to fit the diameter of the opening in the frame and it must be done slowly and carefully because you want a snug fit.
At this point the nylon piece will screw onto the breech end of the barrel and stop at it's shoulder. You need to continue to lightly sand the nylon piece until it will just tap into place in the frame with resistance while it is screwed onto the barrel.
Once you can get the nylon piece fully into the breech hole you will need to mark it at the face of pistol breech, remove it from the hole (may need to tap it out from barrel muzzle end using soft wood or leather on your barrel muzzle end) and then cut it back to a depth that will allow the 3 x 6 o-ring to be pressed over the end of the barrel and into the hole. That 3 x 6 o-ring will be a snug fit over the barrel end and in the frame hole and will require a bit of pressure to get it into position. Try to keep the end of the nylon piece as "square" to it's long axis as possible as the o-ring needs to be "square" to the frame to seal well. Keep facing back the nylon piece until you get the o-ring seated to a depth you can work with.
I had also just completed the valve tapping/sealing/JBWeld mod as previously done by Rallyshark so my fitting had to be VERY accurate to allow the valve to tighten to the EXACT position for the valve port to be exactly aligned with the breech block port while getting the desired pressure on the o-ring and this took a lot of hand fitting time but it turned out great. If your valve is stock then you can set the pressure on the breech o-ring using that valve tightening mechanism and it will take much less time to fit in that case.
All of this will obviously be much more accurate if done in a lathe (and may never be needed for lower power setups and if you have no breech leakage). But I did it by hand using the tools noted which I had in my shop and it worked out great but it did take several hours of hand fitting to get it just right. I had previously eliminated breech leakage with a spacer between the valve head and the rotating breech block but I was concerned about wear on that breech block face (aluminum) sliding across the shim I had made so I decided to try this method. The result is no breech leakage with a much thicker o-ring at that location (may last longer?) and I can fully tighten the barrel. And if it all fails it is fully reversible by simply reinstalling the factory bushing and thin o-ring but as of now it is shooting great after about 50 shots so it seems that it may function fine long term.
The next time I have the pistol disassembled I will get accurate measurements of the piece that I made if anyone wants to try this but I had spent so much time fitting it that I didn't think to measure it before the final installation. As noted above, the length of the piece is not critical if you have a stock valve as pressure on the o-ring can easily be adjusted by a slight turn on the valve itself but this is not possible with the modified valve.
Put a 100+ CPHP through yours and see if it helps the reg break in.
Put a 100+ CPHP through yours and see if it helps the reg break in.lol, those are exactly what I got from Academy Sports today since all the 'fancy' ones from AGD don't show up until tomorrow.
Put a 100+ CPHP through yours and see if it helps the reg break in.lol, those are exactly what I got from Academy Sports today since all the 'fancy' ones from AGD don't show up until tomorrow.
Just looking in the tin, I'd say it's half empty now...yea, I guess I've filled it 6-7 times. I'll try it on the chrony again tomorrow.
I did a Chrony test with mine after putting probably 1000 rounds through it with no additional adjustment since soon after I bought it.Nice Wayne I have mine since Wednesday and like it a great deal it is well balanced and I can't wait to get my Rocker1 LDC mounted. How much of a difference in the bark with the LDC mounted>
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4301/35261323863_c8b26527ab_b.jpg)
15 -16 fpe from a lowly pistol is awesome power from what will soon become a very popular PCP pistol and the regulator makes for an even sweeter package. My cheapo red dot died so I will be picking up another slightly better one shortly. Open sights don't cut cut it for my tired old eyes.
I will be mounting a light weight red dot sight most of my shooting will be at 30 yards or less
my friend has 27j after enlarge transfert port to 4mm and tune his hammer spring and reg..but reg has not enaugh air volume to increase power!
after shooting without his reg, his power has increase
and yes i speak about .22 caliber ;)
for the spirit of the gun, it s same thing than other mod for benjamin crosman
the gun will have more shoot count,more power,better reg so it could be a hit for hunting mod
but i agree if you really want a short range pcp,it s not necessary!!
but with 0,2l 300bars tank and 30j, we could have an incredible gun!
if you take an yes on my link you will see that the tank with reg has almost the same length than original cylinder..i have found smaller paintball reg too so if the length is the same than original tank, the look will not be too horrible
A lot of the appeal of this gun is the small package, I had to remind myself that when I purchased a scope for it. I went with the smallest 4x I could find to keep it small and light. More magnification would be nice, but not really needed at the 60 yards max that I shoot it at. I think 15 fpe with 30 shots is perfect for such a compact plinker, that's just my opinion though.
Donny there's definitely a learning curve to a pistol scope, I think I'm finally getting to the point now where I can come right up on targets even in the dark woods in the morning. The chipmunks I've been trying to thin out in that squirrel woods I hunt a lot have been really good training. I've got a bunch of tanned hides from them and red squirrels now that I'm thinking about making something out of. I've got a couple of frozen ground hog hides I plan on using for something too, I think I'll just use hide only with them with no fur.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4319/36076749245_85a246799d_b.jpg)
Who was getting 33j on the Facebook group? I must have missed that one(which is entirely possible). I think it would be possible with the .22(since I got 20 fpe in .177), but I haven't seen where anyone has done it yet.Andreas Stella 31.54 off a 1.02g pellet
I think adding those parts you mentioned would take away from the fun of the pistol, and you might as well get something else at that point imo. Working on them is half the fun though :)
Who was getting 33j on the Facebook group? I must have missed that one(which is entirely possible). I think it would be possible with the .22(since I got 20 fpe in .177), but I haven't seen where anyone has done it yet.Andreas Stella 31.54 off a 1.02g pellet
I think adding those parts you mentioned would take away from the fun of the pistol, and you might as well get something else at that point imo. Working on them is half the fun though :)
Hey peeps, thats my pp700sa pushing 31.5joules on facebook. The fun factor is that I managed to squeeze 36j with a bit heavier pellet and removing the suppressor. The thing is that this kind of power is useless when your shot count is about 10 shots... so I kept the power at avarage 25j and about 25 nice shots with very small speed variation which is more than enough for small distance pests control I'm using it. If someone looking for more power you must get bigger gun. Of course it is .22 cal
Many thanks to Donny for his posts and infos, they really helped.
thanks for you reply
in my case i would like 30j but with higher shoot count
so we are going with a friend to create a part to use paintball tank and regulator instead original one
the total length will be the same if i compare with original cylinder.i have already buy the complet kit post below (less than 40euro)`
Go CW to increase the set point. Just make sure you have the pressure below 100 bar, preferably 70-80bar. It is better to adjust the reg without more pressure than the set point leaning on it. Don't get me wrong I've done without the pressure being that low, but it isn't recommended :)
After you give the regulator 1/4-1/2 turn in, then adjust the hammer. Of course, this is all just guessing if you don't have a chrony. I know a few people's guns have had the hammer spring adjusted pretty tight from the factory. Mine was middle of the road. I think I have mine about 1.5-2 turns from max on my current tune of 15fpe in .177.
What speed are you going for and with what pellets?
Yep, the taco hold and a rifle scope
Quite a few folks have put rifle scopes on them. I believe Motorhead did on his when did his pp700w build a while back. A lot of the guys are putting butt stocks on them with rifle scopes, and making a handy super light carbine out of them. It is all about what you want from the gun :) While I've had no issues with a 4x pistol scope, many people simply don't like shooting with a pistol scope. The gun is accurate enough that the extra magnification of a rifle scope certainly won't be wasted if you can find the hold/combo to shoot well with it.Donny the only reason I haven't got a 4X on mine yet is because I already had a pistol scope that I intended on using for my Prod back in 2016, well I decided to use that as a carbine instead of a pistol (too big and heavy for the real pistol feel and versatility) and it is now on my MKII. I'd love the 4X but for now the 2X that's on it will do for the time being.
This thing is awesome!
Very quiet
Very accurate
Smooth operation
Thank you David, it's terrific.
This red-dot was well worth the $ too.
Here's a full charge at ~13yds (was ten yards, but had to drag my table out of the sun - whew it's hot!) Lost count of the pellets - I'd guess 30ish. The stickers were from sighting it in. A couple I pulled it, trigger is a bit heavier than the AA and FX, but I'll figure that out soon enough. I'd still be out there, at 90° and steamy, but had to take a break from the afternoon sun.
Will get the chrony out tomorrow.
Only thing I wish were different is that it was a repeater instead of a single shot. Otherwise, perfect little pistol.
(http://www.unlimitedengineering.com/gallery/files/1/20170731_171204_1501536946976_resizedLarge.jpg)
Need a travel case for it. Preferably w/o having to take the LDC off. Recommendations?here's what I bought for mine https://www.uspeacekeeper.com/products/smg-sbr-case# (https://www.uspeacekeeper.com/products/smg-sbr-case#)
I´m getting around 40 good shots with my .22 version. JSB 15.89gr at 640fps, regulator is set at ~95bar. This thing is amazing little beast, barks like one even with lcd. Just amazing value for the money...
(http://i.imgur.com/2JEUbri.jpg) (http://imgur.com/2JEUbri)
Get a good pair of snap ring pliers to remove the original muzzle bushing. David's fine gear threads onto the barrel hand tight. Haven't had issues with it coming loose afterwards.That's what I used was a pair of snap ring pliers on mine as well!
That's about the power level I'm getting, but my ES widens a bit if I go much more than 30 shots... what's your ES like? They are sweet, aren't they?
Hey guys, I wanted to ask about a leak that cropped up after removing and reinstalling the regulator.
Hopefully I simply nicked one of the O-rings...either the small one on the slender inlet part that the air tube threads onto, or one of the larger ones on the exhaust side that fit into the receiver. Everything was greased well and seemed to go together without a hitch, and normally it's obvious to me when there's a hangup but I can't rule it out until I disassemble it tonight.
The reason I wanted to go ahead and ask is because in hindsight it's not obvious to me how the slender inlet stem seals where it threads to the regulator body. I'm talking about the part that is removed with a spanner wrench / snap ring pliers. Does it seal by crushing against the white flat washer? If so, I suspect that's where my leak is. The plastic seemed pretty hard like acetal and getting two hard flat surfaces to seal isn't easy.
Hey guys, I wanted to ask about a leak that cropped up after removing and reinstalling the regulator.
Hopefully I simply nicked one of the O-rings...either the small one on the slender inlet part that the air tube threads onto, or one of the larger ones on the exhaust side that fit into the receiver. Everything was greased well and seemed to go together without a hitch, and normally it's obvious to me when there's a hangup but I can't rule it out until I disassemble it tonight.
The reason I wanted to go ahead and ask is because in hindsight it's not obvious to me how the slender inlet stem seals where it threads to the regulator body. I'm talking about the part that is removed with a spanner wrench / snap ring pliers. Does it seal by crushing against the white flat washer? If so, I suspect that's where my leak is. The plastic seemed pretty hard like acetal and getting two hard flat surfaces to seal isn't easy.
Jason, you are correct in that the white acetal seat is the seal when properly tightened with a spanner wrench.
To get mine to be leak tight I had to add a O-Ring as suggested on the Facebook forum.
http://imgur.com/Dc7uenS (http://imgur.com/Dc7uenS)
Yeah the breech leaks air. I am just wondering if it will tune flatter at lower powers? I have not tried waiting that long between shots. Pistol was slinging them around 705 for 15 shots when the pistol arrived.
Not like it's a $2k FX or anything. You get what you pay for.
I gotta hope it's true, I just ordered an Impact. The streamline is flawless, does exactly what they advertised.
Not like it's a $2k FX or anything. You get what you pay for.
A lot of guys with Impacts wish that were a true statement...
I hope you get a good one. Check AGN for the issues others are having with them.Yea, I've seen some of that. I'm hoping too. I did let AOA go thru it unlike the one user who was impatient and skipped that part. With any luck AOA eliminated any hiccups. fingers crossed...
Enough talk of that though, let's get back to our China gem!Mine is in UPS's hands... :-\
I don't have creep in mine anymore. I started with a 1000psi charge and screwed the regulator adjuster pretty far in, until it was getting hard to turn. The string was pretty bad and low power, so I began backing it off, and power went up. I kept going until it dropped again, then began adjusting the hammer and transfer port again. Took a few cycles of that to get what I wanted, but when I was done, the reg creep it had out of the box was gone.
It would punch a nice clean hole before I tightened the valve body.
Notice the guys pinky in the pic...
If I figure it out, or if I don't, I'll let you guys know.
My buddy purchased a "stash can" off ebay to use as a moderator. It's a 5"x 1" anodized aluminum cylinder with threaded end caps, for like $5. I can't even touch that price with material costs.
Did a little tuning this evening, and figured I'd share the results. I started with 150 bar and took 3 shots(the gun has been sitting for a few days), it shot 598, 630, 628 with 16gr JSB's.
reshaped the front half of the poppet and opened the valve spring retaining nut port to .1875, refilled to 150 bar and shot 3 more, 655, 649, 655.
I've never touched the regulator, so figured it was time and tightened it about 1/3 of a turn. Refilled to 150 and it shot a 595(which I expected), so I tightened the hammer spring one full turn and it shot a 720. I backed it off to around 700 and then the thunder storm stole my light. Hopefully tomorrow I can see what kind of string it'll shoot.
I think the Chrony was picking up lightning, it had a random 4 digit number(no decimal) pop up a few times.
Isn't it the lack of light that throws our chrony's off?
Yes, that's the O-ring but no, I don't see any way that step would mitigate creep. It was just to solve a leak. The only thing I did to help the creeping was burnish the plastic washer and screw together with a slurry of J-B bore paste and some medium polishing compound (stick type that I scraped off some with a box blade and mixed with the J-B). I'm also running it about 2fpe hotter than before and that may have helped since a few guys have said it seems to work better at a higher setpoint.Jason, to help in cutting down regulator creep, I also did what was suggested on the Facebook forum, by de-burring and polishing both sides of the 10 regulator washers. It seems to help by cutting down the break-in time for the regulator. Every little thing seems to help. I ended up purchasing 2 of the PP700's and one of them stayed at 3000 PSI for two weeks, with the added regulator O-Ring, and the other still has a very small leak that I can live with. Bob
LOL. I still have yet to be allowed to join the FB group. Haha, I gave up.
LOL. I still have yet to be allowed to join the FB group. Haha, I gave up.
Did you ask me to send the admin a message or not? I can't remember. I've never had him not add anyone I gave him the name of, which is quite a few at this point. I'm pretty scatter brained though, and I have a hard time remembering what I ate for lunch. If I haven't, track me down on there, shoot me a message and tell me who you are on here. That way I'll know who I'm dealing with, and I'll send the admin a message to add you. He's very worried about trolls, and the group being closed down, since it is UK based(the anti-gun cult is strong over there). I'm D Avery Sellars on facebook.
LOL. I still have yet to be allowed to join the FB group. Haha, I gave up.
Did you ask me to send the admin a message or not? I can't remember. I've never had him not add anyone I gave him the name of, which is quite a few at this point. I'm pretty scatter brained though, and I have a hard time remembering what I ate for lunch. If I haven't, track me down on there, shoot me a message and tell me who you are on here. That way I'll know who I'm dealing with, and I'll send the admin a message to add you. He's very worried about trolls, and the group being closed down, since it is UK based(the anti-gun cult is strong over there). I'm D Avery Sellars on facebook.
Multiple times. It's not anything you're doing or not. Just not meant to be. But I'm happy with my pistol as-is and you as well as others trickle down info in this thread so it's all good. I pretty much hate FB anyway and always have.
Oh well, I don't know what happened there... Of course I and many others will continue to spread what we know
I tore into the regulator today. My # 29 screw was very loose and not threaded snug to the white washer. I snugged every thing up. My bellvills were stacked (())(())((. Put it back together and shot the following string. Stopped after the 14th shot waited 5 min's then finished the string. Shooting JSB 15.9 with starting pressure of 2900psi and ending around 1700psi.
I tore into the regulator today. My # 29 screw was very loose and not threaded snug to the white washer. I snugged every thing up. My bellvills were stacked (())(())((. Put it back together and shot the following string. Stopped after the 14th shot waited 5 min's then finished the string. Shooting JSB 15.9 with starting pressure of 2900psi and ending around 1700psi.
You know, now that you mention it, I've seen quite a few people mention that screw being loose. I took mine apart at the very start, so I know mine hasn't been loose. That could be where a lot of folks are having problems with creep and consistency? I've never had issues with those things, and that could be part of the reason why. Either way, good string you got going there! Out of curiosity, have you tried it with a 220bar fill after you took the reg apart?
Hey guys, I know a few of y'all are getting your pistols shooting up in the mid 800s to low 900s by restocking the bellievew washers, but to my knowledge most of y'all that are getting that are shooting .177 and using a reg stack like this (( )) (( )) ((. Let me know if that's right or not please. But using that same stack design with the .22 is will only achieve a high of 675fps-ish average. I've adjusted my valve spring pressure and hammer pressure quite a bit to get those results. Does anyone have any ideas on a better stack design to achieve higher set pressure.
3P 5S is 3 parralled and 5 of those in series
((( ))) ((( ))) (((
The original was 2P 5S
(( )) (( )) ((
So it would have the same travel but 50% greater spring rate so should permit about a 50% higher setpoint.
I fall off the reg around 100 bar, so that's where I stop shooting. It takes about ten shots after that and a lot of force to get the valve to dump when I'm emptying the cylinder. Didn't know there would be any danger there? Running the valve spring loose let me turn my hammer tension down quite a bit, which helps with the trigger pull and should also aid in lessening hammer bounce. I did it for efficiency and consistancy. That'll have to do until I build a balance valve for it.
I still need to get some some shot strings with the valve spring at different tensions to see if it has an effect on efficiency. I'm also not sure if changing the shape on the forward face of the poppet changes the force of the pressure acting on it, or if the force remains the same for a given diameter regardless of the angle of the face.
thoughts on what to adjust to make this better? seems like others are getting more power and shots from theirs with 18gr pellets
So far mine has leaked in two places, and one of those was a result of me disassembling and reassembling. I wrote of it a few days ago in this thread but it's where the two halves of the regulator thread together. Apparently it's supposed to seal against the white plastic washer inside but it's hard to develop enough torque when reassembling. Fortunately it's easy to remedy by adding an O-ring as Bob described in this post https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=121844.msg1290844#msg1290844 (https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=121844.msg1290844#msg1290844)
I would not be surprised if many of them have a slow leak in that location.
thoughts on what to adjust to make this better? seems like others are getting more power and shots from theirs with 18gr pellets
Any idea about where your reg and hammer preload adjustments are right now, also have you adjusted anything with the valve or transfer port restrictor?
Might try leaving the grips off and slowing backing your hammer spring off while taking 2-3 shots over the crony, then as soon as it starts to drop a few fps, turn it back just enough to bring it back up, about 1/4 turn. Then run a full string again, just guessing but I'd say you have to much hammer
[/quotethoughts on what to adjust to make this better? seems like others are getting more power and shots from theirs with 18gr pellets
Any idea about where your reg and hammer preload adjustments are right now, also have you adjusted anything with the valve or transfer port restrictor?
Might try leaving the grips off and slowing backing your hammer spring off while taking 2-3 shots over the crony, then as soon as it starts to drop a few fps, turn it back just enough to bring it back up, about 1/4 turn. Then run a full string again, just guessing but I'd say you have to much hammer
maybe a half turn clockwise on the reg , tp is open all the way and i think maybe 2 turns in on the hammer but not 100%
I took a string before this one and i think it maxed at 605, so i gave the hammer another full turn before i took the string above.
I used a -015 (Buna-N, 50 durometer), however there is a metric O-ring in the service kit that folks have used successfully. It measures M1.5 x 12.5.
I'm thinking about an adjustable rear sight. If I drive out the non adjustable rear sight what aftermarket sight will fit into the dovetail groove at the rear of the breech?
Thanks on the O-Ring size Jason. Good to have you around! :D
I pretty much concluded I have a non-functioning regulator in this new pistol. I'm thinking it would probably be more consistent with my "regulator" removed. 1000 rounds later I still have 150 to 300 fps velocity variations over a string of 30 shots.
I messed with the hammer spring tension and regulator adjustment a lot. Currently I have the regulator adjusted almost all the way in (clockwise); about 1 turn out from where it won't turn any more, thinking maybe the increased tension will help seal the regulator and eliminate the severe regulator creep. Now I have ever-increasing velocity throughout the string, starting at about 440 fps and topping out at about 750 fps. This is from 200 bar to 100 bar. Velocity consistently increases 5 or 10 fps with every shot. Waiting longer between shots does not change this behavior. When I increased the hammer spring tension, it started out at about 590fps and topped out at about 770 fps when it got close to 100 bar.
I'm trying to understand the physics involved here. What is happening with this current adjustment?
Will the air tube unscrew with hand pressure once there is no pressure in it? Do I need to remove the barrel shroud first? I assume I need to apply torque to the main body of the air tube, not to the end piece that contains the filler hole and gauge, right?
It sounds like yours is functioning with the reg so tight that is effectively bypassed. The easiest way to get at that stuff is to remove the barrel and shroud, so you can properly get a grip on the air cylinder. Most of the time, you can get them off by hand. But yes, after it is de-gassed, just unscrew the cylinder.
Mike, I agree with Donny, starting at ~400fps and rising to 700fps sounds like the regulator is being bypassed. Could be from having the adjustment set too tight or there might be a piece of debris trapped in the valve seat of the regulator (between the white plastic washer and the tapered screw).
Yet one more possibility...some people found some really screwy Belleville arrangements when they took theirs apart for the first time so you may want to take care to inspect them when you take it apart. That way at least you'd know there was a good reason it wasn't functioning correctly.
Tips on how to improve this? Backed off the hammer a little from the last one.
(http://i.imgur.com/FOZI2Xa.jpg?1)
Other than what has already been stated, I don't have any better ideas to improve the string. On the bright side, you shouldn't be able to notice any real POI difference at the ranges you'll likely be shooting at :DTips on how to improve this? Backed off the hammer a little from the last one.
(http://i.imgur.com/FOZI2Xa.jpg?1)
Donny I'm still replacing them photos in different threads where photobucket bucket screwed things up for everyone!
Other than what has already been stated, I don't have any better ideas to improve the string. On the bright side, you shouldn't be able to notice any real POI difference at the ranges you'll likely be shooting at :DTips on how to improve this? Backed off the hammer a little from the last one.
(http://i.imgur.com/FOZI2Xa.jpg?1)
Hey guys, look what was brought to my attention on the facebook page!!! I don't remember who posted it, but it should certainly solve the problems some of you are having with shot consistency :D I'm tempted myself. It is adjustable from 70-150 bar!Donny, good find, thanks for sharing. Bob
https://www.huma-air.com/Artemis-PP700-tuning-pressure-regulator (https://www.huma-air.com/Artemis-PP700-tuning-pressure-regulator)
I've just tested a different approach to the breech sealing issue that also provides better barrel tightening and can be done without a lathe (although a lathe would provide a superior final result) if you have a drill press, a set of drill bits, and a dremel with some basic cutting tools-
Go to Lowes/Home Depot and get a nylon 1/2" spacer with a .250 hole through it's length. I got several at 1" but I believe 1/2" length is also available. You also need an 8 mm 1.0 pitch tap and a bolt of the same size with several nuts to go on the bolt. Also needed is a 3mm x 6mm o-ring.
Drill the hole in the center of the nylon spacer larger until it is just smaller than the tap diameter (I did this by hand and don't recall the exact sizes of bits that I used but start with the first size that won't pass through the .250 hole and increase the size until you can get the tap started). Tap the inner hole to the 8/1.0 thread (this is the threading on the barrel itself). Cut the head off of the bolt. Then you can screw the nylon piece onto the bolt using a couple of the nuts to set depth on the bolt and chuck the bolt into a drill press. Then while spinning the bolt in the drill press use a dremel and a sanding drum to begin turning down the outer diameter of the nylon piece until you get a tight fit into the barrel bushing hole (it measures .473 if I recall correctly). I used a coarse sanding drum until I got it close then started with a fine file to smooth the outer diameter and I tried to have a little "taper" with the inner end of the nylon piece slightly narrower than the outer end. It will take some time to shape this nylon piece to fit the diameter of the opening in the frame and it must be done slowly and carefully because you want a snug fit.
At this point the nylon piece will screw onto the breech end of the barrel and stop at it's shoulder. You need to continue to lightly sand the nylon piece until it will just tap into place in the frame with resistance while it is screwed onto the barrel.
Once you can get the nylon piece fully into the breech hole you will need to mark it at the face of pistol breech, remove it from the hole (may need to tap it out from barrel muzzle end using soft wood or leather on your barrel muzzle end) and then cut it back to a depth that will allow the 3 x 6 o-ring to be pressed over the end of the barrel and into the hole. That 3 x 6 o-ring will be a snug fit over the barrel end and in the frame hole and will require a bit of pressure to get it into position. Try to keep the end of the nylon piece as "square" to it's long axis as possible as the o-ring needs to be "square" to the frame to seal well. Keep facing back the nylon piece until you get the o-ring seated to a depth you can work with.
I had also just completed the valve tapping/sealing/JBWeld mod as previously done by Rallyshark so my fitting had to be VERY accurate to allow the valve to tighten to the EXACT position for the valve port to be exactly aligned with the breech block port while getting the desired pressure on the o-ring and this took a lot of hand fitting time but it turned out great. If your valve is stock then you can set the pressure on the breech o-ring using that valve tightening mechanism and it will take much less time to fit in that case.
All of this will obviously be much more accurate if done in a lathe (and may never be needed for lower power setups and if you have no breech leakage). But I did it by hand using the tools noted which I had in my shop and it worked out great but it did take several hours of hand fitting to get it just right. I had previously eliminated breech leakage with a spacer between the valve head and the rotating breech block but I was concerned about wear on that breech block face (aluminum) sliding across the shim I had made so I decided to try this method. The result is no breech leakage with a much thicker o-ring at that location (may last longer?) and I can fully tighten the barrel. And if it all fails it is fully reversible by simply reinstalling the factory bushing and thin o-ring but as of now it is shooting great after about 50 shots so it seems that it may function fine long term.
The next time I have the pistol disassembled I will get accurate measurements of the piece that I made if anyone wants to try this but I had spent so much time fitting it that I didn't think to measure it before the final installation. As noted above, the length of the piece is not critical if you have a stock valve as pressure on the o-ring can easily be adjusted by a slight turn on the valve itself but this is not possible with the modified valve.
If I wanted to by-pass or "bridge" the regulator, how would I go about doing so?
Set the washers a certain way, crank the setting screw or what?
I couldn't stand it, and just ordered a Huma for mine :D More ramen noodles for me :(Good choice, I am now anxiously awaiting your review.
It looks like there will be a few of us to review the Huma soon then! When I do get it, I'm gonna see if I can make it work with no guts in the factory "reg", as opposed to simply bridging it as Huma states... I'm wondering what it will do with that reg set to 150bar too. Right now, the best I've been able to get out of it 790s with the 15gr sniper magnums, so a tick over 21fpe. That ain't bad for a .177 though. I'm thinking removing the guts of the factory "reg", and opening up the breathing holes in that factory contraption will effectively give it a bit more plenum to work with. Of course, that won't mean a thing if I can't get it to seal.
Finding out if you can make things work is half the fun, even if you don't succeed :D
It looks like there will be a few of us to review the Huma soon then! When I do get it, I'm gonna see if I can make it work with no guts in the factory "reg", as opposed to simply bridging it as Huma states... I'm wondering what it will do with that reg set to 150bar too. Right now, the best I've been able to get out of it 790s with the 15gr sniper magnums, so a tick over 21fpe. That ain't bad for a .177 though. I'm thinking removing the guts of the factory "reg", and opening up the breathing holes in that factory contraption will effectively give it a bit more plenum to work with. Of course, that won't mean a thing if I can't get it to seal.
Finding out if you can make things work is half the fun, even if you don't succeed :D
That was my idea too ... Sadly the flow path of the OEM regulator DOES NOT lend it self to opened up passages. The spigot of OEM reg that slides into the trigger frame vents into the plenum between the o-rings of the mount spigot, sadly this is also mid way in the short center bore where the OEM regs spool sealing o-ring rests. This prevent you from cross drilling at that location. Now if one were to perhaps make small plug w/ o-ring that is held down via the set point adjusting cap using just the very edge of the center hole, you could likely get away cross drilling ???
Agreed there IS some plenum volume to be gained if you could get the space of the air tubes end cap and the attachment parts ( Ex reg body parts ) to be a more common space unobstructed by little passages.
It took 12 hours for the reg to leave Amsterdam and arrive in NY city. Should be here in VT in a couple days. If customs doesn't come into play...?
It took 12 hours for the reg to leave Amsterdam and arrive in NY city. Should be here in VT in a couple days. If customs doesn't come into play...?
Should be there quicker considering their shipping charge.
Any interest?
Any interest?YES
Any interest?Indeedy-doo, Kind Sir.
Any interest?
I had thought about cutting a groove in my loading gate. But I decided I liked carrying pellets in a pellet pen instead.At target rich times I grab the pen and pistol and go outside to do battle with the squirrels... If I was pulling pellets from a pouch or tin, the groove would be more helpful.I also have been using a pellet pen with my PP700, instead of dropping half of the pellets, do to a damaged thumb.
It looks like there will be a few of us to review the Huma soon then! When I do get it, I'm gonna see if I can make it work with no guts in the factory "reg", as opposed to simply bridging it as Huma states... I'm wondering what it will do with that reg set to 150bar too. Right now, the best I've been able to get out of it 790s with the 15gr sniper magnums, so a tick over 21fpe. That ain't bad for a .177 though. I'm thinking removing the guts of the factory "reg", and opening up the breathing holes in that factory contraption will effectively give it a bit more plenum to work with. Of course, that won't mean a thing if I can't get it to seal.
Finding out if you can make things work is half the fun, even if you don't succeed :D
That was my idea too ... Sadly the flow path of the OEM regulator DOES NOT lend it self to opened up passages. The spigot of OEM reg that slides into the trigger frame vents into the plenum between the o-rings of the mount spigot, sadly this is also mid way in the short center bore where the OEM regs spool sealing o-ring rests. This prevent you from cross drilling at that location. Now if one were to perhaps make small plug w/ o-ring that is held down via the set point adjusting cap using just the very edge of the center hole, you could likely get away cross drilling ???
Agreed there IS some plenum volume to be gained if you could get the space of the air tubes end cap and the attachment parts ( Ex reg body parts ) to be a more common space unobstructed by little passages.
Donny if you can pull that off, please post photos so we can follow this a bit easier. My Huma should be here tomorrow from what the tracking info is telling me.
Keep in mind this isn't necessarily to scale, and I didn't show every detail, but it should get the idea across anyway. Yes, I used my high end CAD software, a.k.a. microsoft paint, lol!Donny, what size hole are you planning to drill through the peek plug?
Keep in mind this isn't necessarily to scale, and I didn't show every detail, but it should get the idea across anyway. Yes, I used my high end CAD software, a.k.a. microsoft paint, lol!I did mine the other day ....
REG NO WORKIE >:(
There's a step inside the tube
The reg won't go past it. Even with the O-ring removed.
Reg. OD is 1.055". End plug OD is 1.0535"
Keep in mind this isn't necessarily to scale, and I didn't show every detail, but it should get the idea across anyway. Yes, I used my high end CAD software, a.k.a. microsoft paint, lol!Donny, what size hole are you planning to drill through the peek plug?
Keep in mind this isn't necessarily to scale, and I didn't show every detail, but it should get the idea across anyway. Yes, I used my high end CAD software, a.k.a. microsoft paint, lol!I did mine the other day ....
The diagonal hole in area of reg body that goes into receiver HAD TOO be kept at a diagonal angle & was drilled out to .125" having it intersect the inner bore still breaking out any remaining space for an I.D. o-ring of a plug as shown in drawing :P
So ... made the plug in reverse so the o-ring was INSIDE the tension cup sealing the adjustment wrench hole. Now using some JB weld screwed in the adjustment cup with JB sealing the threads and plug inside the cup. Let dry and then cleared out any overhang of material in the 1/8" hole. NICE ;D
Next took the air cylinder spigot drilling it all the way threw with a 1/8" bit. used a thin o-ring as shown to seal spigot & body, Cleaned it all up & assembled. DONE !!
REG NO WORKIE >:(
There's a step inside the tube
The reg won't go past it. Even with the O-ring removed.
Reg. OD is 1.055". End plug OD is 1.0535"
My PP700 air cylinder as well had been machined at I.D. to @ 1.058" specs beyond threads but was done so deep enough to seat the reg body that was made at 1.055"
The air cylinder is symmetrical being threading at each end the same ... may want to remove filler cap and check if the bore depth is the same or deeper at the other end of tube ?
Nope, it's the same on both ends.
Huma says they measured all of two sample pistols...
I used my high end CAD software, a.k.a. microsoft paint, lol!
Donny, thanks for the explanation, I forgot about the hole between the o-ring seals. It looks like a good way to disable the old regulator. I am waiting delivery of the Huma Regulator so now I have time to prep for it's install.Donny, what size hole are you planning to drill through the peek plug?There will be no hole in the PEEK plug. That is meant to be short enough that air can escape through vent holes that will be drilled between the 2 o-rings that seal the spigot in the receiver. If you click on the picture, it will be larger and you will be able to see the cross drilled holes in the my "diagram".
Donny, thanks for the explanation, I forgot about the hole between the o-ring seals. It looks like a good way to disable the old regulator. I am waiting delivery of the Huma Regulator so now I have time to prep for it's install.Donny, what size hole are you planning to drill through the peek plug?There will be no hole in the PEEK plug. That is meant to be short enough that air can escape through vent holes that will be drilled between the 2 o-rings that seal the spigot in the receiver. If you click on the picture, it will be larger and you will be able to see the cross drilled holes in the my "diagram".
Huma has offered to make a smaller OD one to fit, but you bring up a good point about the unmachined ID of the tube. I can see, by eye, that the step is different heights as it goes around. And the tube has longitudinal grooves too. Not good.
I had considered lapping the grooves out, but now that I see it's not round, that probably wouldn't work.
The cap stops .285" short of full in. Huma wants a .02-04" gap left after install. The end cap has .4" of unthreaded section. The tip of the OEM reg. is .6" from the end of the cap. Looks like cutting the cap us the easiest solution.
Break out the hacksaw! :o
What's the O-ring on the rear face of the reg. do? Is it supposed to seal on the face of the end cap?
You can get past leaving the gap after install, if you put a small groove in the threads and small notch in the the air tube with a little triangle file. I've never been a fan of the "not screwing things together" method of venting a reg myself. It just don't feel right to me, lol.I agree that a vent groove perpendicular to the cap threads is a better approach so that you can tighten the cap.
I was afraid of that. Cutting the cap would require a good finish on the end. No hacksawing...
Reg. got here yesterday. Measured my air tube . It's got the same step 40mm down in the I.D. as well. Drat. Should I contact Huma?
Donny, that's good news that it is sealed and I just saw your write-up on FB. I should be getting my Reg this week so now I can prepare the air tube. I'm hoping that we can just machine the end cap and cut a groove in the threads for venting. This would not be a problem as I have two lathes and a mill.Reg. got here yesterday. Measured my air tube . It's got the same step 40mm down in the I.D. as well. Drat. Should I contact Huma?I would contact Huma. This isn't a good sign for the rest of us with a regulator in route :( I wonder if that step is different in the 700W vs the 700S-A. On the bright side, I was able to get my gun to seal with the regulator parts removed. I'll try and post some pictures tomorrow.
I ordered a hone off Amazon. Should be here tomorrow. Can't post a link >:( Lisle 10500 Brake Cylinder Hone (Cost $13.39)
Hopefully it'll not give me any trouble. Some of the drawing marks will catch a fingernail. Not super deep, but they will have to be removed.
I just mic'ed the ID of the unmachined surface. All three readings came out to 1.053". Appears to be round, with the machined surface just being a little off center.
Anyone hone aluminum before? Wondering what fluid I should use. Oil or water. Hopefully the anodizing isn't too hard.I use WD40 when machining aluminum and seems to work ok.
If your thinking a hone will replace lathe machining of the air tube to fit a regulator ... IT WON'TAnyone hone aluminum before? Wondering what fluid I should use. Oil or water. Hopefully the anodizing isn't too hard.I use WD40 when machining aluminum and seems to work ok.
Any interest?yes
Good news. Huma has come up with a design the fits partiality into the rear cap. No need to hone!I received the Huma Regulator after work yesterday and just now I received a email from Huma about the fit problem and ask for exact dimensions of the tube and cap for their records. This has to be a great company to respond so fast to resolve this problem. Now I have to make time to do Donny's mods and try to install the regulator.
I measure my cap to have a cavity of 0.595" in diameter and 0.619" deep.
Anyone want to verify that their cap is the same?
Well I ordered 3 of those humas before the hurricane haven't heard anything yet and now seems they have a problem with fit, jeez, have already ordered a replacement reg for the pistol and it was worse than what I had, that's not counting replaceing all the washers before. can keep them under 700 fps and the factory works good but seems anything over 700 fps and they get erratic, you might get a good string today but tomorrow is another storey. . David
Donny, thanks looks great, you did a great job and I'm sure that it will work.
Speaking of replacement parts. Say I want a tube and two end caps... Who's selling parts for the PP700?
Good news. Huma has come up with a design the fits partiality into that rear cap. No need to hone!
I measure my cap to have a cavity of 0.595" in diameter and 0.619" deep.
Anyone want to verify that their cap is the same?
I emailed Huub, and he said he had already sent new measurements to the CNC department for a change. Mine is in customs apparently, according to what Huub was able to determine. I gotta say, they respond quickly to the emails, so that is good.
Did you get a NL tracking number? If so, you can enter it into our USPS site and get updates.I also had to go to the Post Office and sign for mine because I wasn't home when they tried to deliver it.
They sent mine registered mail, so I had to sign for it...
8x1.25 mm David
8x1.25 mm David
Is that anything Metric? Do you meant M8?
Hi to all,
If I want to change the caliber from .22 to .177, what do I need to change besides the barrel?
Thanks
Hi to all,
If I want to change the caliber from .22 to .177, what do I need to change besides the barrel?
Thanks
Why the change?
Yeah, I got the notice as well. Version 2.0 should work, I hope.
Hi to all,
If I want to change the caliber from .22 to .177, what do I need to change besides the barrel?
Thanks
Why the change?
I have already buy the tank to see in blank mount what will be the final lookThat's cool, sounds like a good set-up... However, I guess we have different ideas of hunting pistols. I doubt I'll take 12 shots if I'm hunting, and since mine is a .177, I'm not going after medium-sized or large game, nor going for longer distances. I can already kill anything I'd normally shoot at any range I'd consider using a pistol for up- to 40 yards or so.
and it's really beautiful despite the tank(more than in the video because we can put the tank more near, so better looking)
the gun will be already compact (look at the length on the aliexpress tank). The size will be similar,only the weight will increase a little but still compact gun and more important thing for hunting pistol, huge shoot count and powerful (you will remove original regulator for a better unit so you can have easily 25-34j depend what you want)
I did some more tweaking with the pistol today. I'm now getting 28 shots at 897fps with an ES of 24, and an SD of 6! That is only 2 shots shy of what I could get at that speed without the Huma, but it is much more consistent and NO REG CREEP :D I'm not sure about a bone stock one, by my pistol does much better in the efficiency department tuning a bit farther below the knee. I'm thinking I should be able to get the 30 shots at 900fps mark with the redesigned reg and a little fine tuning. There is no doubt the Huma is worth it if you do more than just plinking.
I did some more tweaking with the pistol today. I'm now getting 28 shots at 897fps with an ES of 24, and an SD of 6! That is only 2 shots shy of what I could get at that speed without the Huma, but it is much more consistent and NO REG CREEP :D I'm not sure about a bone stock one, by my pistol does much better in the efficiency department tuning a bit farther below the knee. I'm thinking I should be able to get the 30 shots at 900fps mark with the redesigned reg and a little fine tuning. There is no doubt the Huma is worth it if you do more than just plinking.
great result
do you have a link for the redesigned reg?
do you have 5,5 calibers?what is you pellet to achieve this speed
I did some more tweaking with the pistol today. I'm now getting 28 shots at 897fps with an ES of 24, and an SD of 6! That is only 2 shots shy of what I could get at that speed without the Huma, but it is much more consistent and NO REG CREEP :D I'm not sure about a bone stock one, by my pistol does much better in the efficiency department tuning a bit farther below the knee. I'm thinking I should be able to get the 30 shots at 900fps mark with the redesigned reg and a little fine tuning. There is no doubt the Huma is worth it if you do more than just plinking.
great result
do you have a link for the redesigned reg?
do you have 5,5 calibers?what is you pellet to achieve this speed
I do not have a link for the redesigned reg. Their website still shows the first version. My gun is .177, and those speeds are with a 7.25 grain H&N Terminator pellet.
I did some more tweaking with the pistol today. I'm now getting 28 shots at 897fps with an ES of 24, and an SD of 6! That is only 2 shots shy of what I could get at that speed without the Huma, but it is much more consistent and NO REG CREEP :D I'm not sure about a bone stock one, by my pistol does much better in the efficiency department tuning a bit farther below the knee. I'm thinking I should be able to get the 30 shots at 900fps mark with the redesigned reg and a little fine tuning. There is no doubt the Huma is worth it if you do more than just plinking.
great result
do you have a link for the redesigned reg?
do you have 5,5 calibers?what is you pellet to achieve this speed
I do not have a link for the redesigned reg. Their website still shows the first version. My gun is .177, and those speeds are with a 7.25 grain H&N Terminator pellet.
thanks for you reply
personally i am waiting 0,2l 300bars tank conversion with short paintball reg . i will tune it into 25j with more than >50shoots
it will be less expansive than huma reg and better shoot count (the gun will be still compact but with better consistants and shoot count.)
air effective uk are going to produce a part to connect this kind of tank instead original cylinders
you can contact them if you are interesting their are really nice people
i have already ordered P15 silencers adaptor from them
Donny, thanks for the information. Though I've not had problems with my stock regulator, I use my pistol primarily for pesting, and given how accurate it is with Sniper Mags, I'd like to max out the power and still maintain a tight ES. The Huma seems the way to go.
Not yet. I ran out of the last of my .177 Barracudas with my QB this evening. I'll probably shoot the last of my JSB Exact RS (.22) tomorrow so this weekend I'll be filling an order and Terminators are on the list.Donny, thanks for the information. Though I've not had problems with my stock regulator, I use my pistol primarily for pesting, and given how accurate it is with Sniper Mags, I'd like to max out the power and still maintain a tight ES. The Huma seems the way to go.
It definitely fits the bill for the tight ES. All in all, I'm only losing 2 shots vs what it did prior to the reg. I suspect I will get those 2 shots back with some further tuning and the redesigned reg. You still haven't tried those terminators have you Peter?? They are nasty little pellets, and my .177 loves them. I can shoot dime sized groups at 30 yards from a rest with them, and the higher fps gives a much flatter trajectory. I initially got them for small critters and didn't want to worry about a heavy dome passing though and hitting stuff. They will pass through(with a big exit hole) at the velocity I'm shooting, but they are so light, they don't have enough juice left after that to hurt anything... I didn't expect them to be as accurate as they are, but they shoot as well as any other pellet in mine at least.
air effective uk are going to produce a part to connect this kind of tank instead original cylinders
you can contact them if you are interesting their are really nice people
i have already ordered P15 silencers adaptor from them
Thanks. How do I do that?
Hey, I bought some Sniper Magnums like you suggested, so it only seems fair :DOh, I'll be ordering them my next order of pellets. Trust me on that. I'll probably order some in .22 as well, since my Varmint likes H&N Pellets as well.
air effective uk are going to produce a part to connect this kind of tank instead original cylinders
you can contact them if you are interesting their are really nice people
i have already ordered P15 silencers adaptor from them
Thanks. How do I do that?
Thanks for the link - I tried to google for the link and was not able to find it.
I did not find the tank info you mentioned.
http://air-fectivetuning.co.uk/ (http://air-fectivetuning.co.uk/)
or on their facebook page
Donny, want to shoot my pistol? I decided I wanted a big boy pistol and bought a custom .30 cal pistol 😂😂😂😂
Donny, want to shoot my pistol? I decided I wanted a big boy pistol and bought a custom .30 cal pistol 😂😂😂😂
Cool, I can't wait to shoot that sucker! What platform is it based on, or is it completely custome? Numbers??
;) I have mine shooting completely stock since day one. No leaks and decent groups when I shoot off of a bag. Once I shoot off hand my groups open up so I know I am the problem. I like this little pistol; it is a ball to shoot being both light and decent accuracy. I don't think that for the price there is a better pistol (fun factor) to be had .Amen to that, Don.
Why not just use a pull string?
But if you do want to remove it, yes remove the nut at the muzzle end of the barrel. Use snap ring pliers or a small pair of needle nose pliers. Some have improvised by clamping a couple of small hex keys or nails in a vise. Once the nut is removed, the barrel shroud will slide off. Then unthread the barrel from the receiver.
V2 got here today. I was able to test fit it tonight without the O-ring. Plenty of clearance to fit the end cap.
V1 on the left:
(https://i.imgur.com/NQAakge.jpg)
Almost finished hogging out the stock reg. Tomorrow I gotta get that 15.5x1.5 O-ring and then it's off to the FT match, er..races.
great!
huma air should really add plenum feature on their shop
what power do you achieve and shoot count with this new reg?
Finished assembly and did a quick test with the chrony this afternoon. Cranked up the power to 725 fps and got 25 shots with JSB 8.4's. I want to keep the gun below 12 ft lbs, so for now I want to just scope the gun and make up my range card for an upcoming match a week from Saturday. Bell curve eliminated, and that's what I was hoping for.
After the National match next month, I may crank up the power and try out those Terminator pellets....
I checked the reg before installing and they had it at 100 bar. I wanted to see what that setting would do, so now I want to crank it up another 5 real soon. Stand by. Your reg still sitting in customs, I imagine? Since you're on the east coast I would think you'd have it by now.If you're at 100 bar, I'd try it at 110. In most cases that area in the cap would act as the plenum, but the real plenum in this gun is the space in the receiver after the factory "reg". It has a tiny hole for the air to go into between the factory "reg" and plenum. The area between the Huma and the receiver has such small passage ways that it can't really act as a plenum :)
BTW, wouldn't the hollow section of the end cap act as a plenum?
Greg- if you don't have a chronograph, this pistol is a prime example of why you should have one. I never used one in airgunning until I bought my MKII, and then a lot was revealed. Shots I thought were more powerful were just marginally faster and wasting air. I adjusted my reg for more power, then back off hammer spring until speed started really falling, then bumped it a hair back up. I get a bit more than 40 shots in .177- about 6% ES. Not great by any stretch, but for a pistol used at mostly 25 yards or less, it's the difference between 3/8" and 1/2"- very tolerable for squirrel.
And like wimpanzee just mentioned, these pistol like being on the upper end of that regulator flinging heavier lead.
I've held off as long as I could... but y'all broke me. I've got my PP700 ordered.
I've held off as long as I could... but y'all broke me. I've got my PP700 ordered.Of you go in knowing that there is plenty of room for improvement with a little TLC they are a great little PCP and tons of fun. I have a Rocker1 carbon fiber LDC which does not upset the balance ( Very light )
I've held off as long as I could... but y'all broke me. I've got my PP700 ordered.
I've held off as long as I could... but y'all broke me. I've got my PP700 ordered.We're all really good at enabling. And when it comes to good choices, this is near or at the top of the list.
I'm tempted to get me another one myself, great deal at Mrodair on them right now. I just checked and both the .22 & .177 are available, they are a killer little pistol for $189 shipped, you probably won't find them much more inexpensive than that!
I've wanted one from the start, but had so many projects in the works I held off...
But, I've completed a few projects since then, and threw caution to the wind and bought one. From MrodAir.
Ugh, I'm only on page 6!! ;D ;D
Not to thread-jack, but how long was the wait from MrodAir?
...Not to thread-jack, but how long was the wait from MrodAir?
About a week. No tracking information will be provided...
...Not to thread-jack, but how long was the wait from MrodAir?
About a week. No tracking information will be provided...
EXCELLENT!! The time, not the lack of communication! ;D
One of our resident PP700 experts needs to weed through this entire threat and put together a tutorial of what works and what has real benefit and what the most beneficial mods are and then post to the library
One of our resident PP700 experts needs to weed through this entire threat and put together a tutorial of what works and what has real benefit and what the most beneficial mods are and then post to the library
THIS
Well my MKII finally crapped out on me, it's finally time to take this puppy apart and replace with some good nitrile orings. I know that someone has posted all the sizes it takes I just can't remember where it was. It's leaking from the most common leak too, at the probe fill.
But... but there's only 38 pages! ;D??? ;)
I finally got my "version 2" regulator today! I've been so busy, that I haven't even had a chance to run any strings on it yet :( I can tell you I put it in, set it at the same pressure, and the velocity is exactly the same(which is what I expected). It is definitely smaller in every way. They re-designed every part of it. It definitely takes up less space. I made some measurements before I installed it, so I should be able to give some concrete volume numbers tomorrow regarding how much space it takes up in the cylinder. Of course, a shot string will be done too ;)
o-rings list on the YellowBrian I bookmarked that thread :D Menards here in town carries a good brand of nitrile orings that you can actually buy individually from what my brother was telling me. Menards is one of his favorite places to go, maybe I should take a good tour of the place even though I hate going to stores ;)
http://www.network54.com/Forum/79537/message/1458278165/OK%2C+let%27s+try+it+this+way... (http://www.network54.com/Forum/79537/message/1458278165/OK%2C+let%27s+try+it+this+way...)
I got a slow leak at the filler too. So, I ordered this list myself. Replaced all of them. No leaks since.
o-rings list on the Yellow
http://www.network54.com/Forum/79537/message/1458278165/OK%2C+let%27s+try+it+this+way... (http://www.network54.com/Forum/79537/message/1458278165/OK%2C+let%27s+try+it+this+way...)
I got a slow leak at the filler too. So, I ordered this list myself. Replaced all of them. No leaks since.
I finally got my "version 2" regulator today! I've been so busy, that I haven't even had a chance to run any strings on it yet :( I can tell you I put it in, set it at the same pressure, and the velocity is exactly the same(which is what I expected). It is definitely smaller in every way. They re-designed every part of it. It definitely takes up less space. I made some measurements before I installed it, so I should be able to give some concrete volume numbers tomorrow regarding how much space it takes up in the cylinder. Of course, a shot string will be done too ;)
Thanks for being the pioneer. Does this regulator replace the original one that came with the pistol?
o-rings list on the Yellow
http://www.network54.com/Forum/79537/message/1458278165/OK%2C+let%27s+try+it+this+way... (http://www.network54.com/Forum/79537/message/1458278165/OK%2C+let%27s+try+it+this+way...)
I got a slow leak at the filler too. So, I ordered this list myself. Replaced all of them. No leaks since.
Durometer- hardness of the o-ring.
I was close but no cigar for me ;D
finally got the huma, day and night between fiddling with the factory, I settled around 795 to 805 almost 40 shots, very little hammer spring . 105 bar DavidDavid, sounds like big improvement, what caliper is the PP700 ?
finally got the huma, day and night between fiddling with the factory, I settled around 795 to 805 almost 40 shots, very little hammer spring . 105 bar David
finally got the huma, day and night between fiddling with the factory, I settled around 795 to 805 almost 40 shots, very little hammer spring . 105 bar David
Excellent!! I can't wait to see everyone's results with this Gen2 Huma!
I did receive my pistol on time (Thursday), in case anyone was wondering... I must say, pictures don't do it justice! I'm really liking this pistol so far!
Welcome to the Fan Boy club I am having a hoot with my .22 just go down the basement fill it grab the tin of pellets and go kill plastic bottles filled with water or empty soda cans it's all good ;D ;D ;Dfinally got the huma, day and night between fiddling with the factory, I settled around 795 to 805 almost 40 shots, very little hammer spring . 105 bar David
Excellent!! I can't wait to see everyone's results with this Gen2 Huma!
I did receive my pistol on time (Thursday), in case anyone was wondering... I must say, pictures don't do it justice! I'm really liking this pistol so far!
Trigger's heavy, and it's stoopid loud... Nothing a little fiddling won't fix!!!Rocker1 makes a very nice CF LDC that is light and will tame the bark Also many posts about lighter trigger and hammer adjustments Good luck and enjoy ;) ;D
I do NOT regret making this purchase!!
finally got the huma, day and night between fiddling with the factory, I settled around 795 to 805 almost 40 shots, very little hammer spring . 105 bar David
Trigger's heavy, and it's stoopid loud... Nothing a little fiddling won't fix!!!Rocker1 makes a very nice CF LDC that is light and will tame the bark Also many posts about lighter trigger and hammer adjustments Good luck and enjoy ;) ;D
I do NOT regret making this purchase!!
I feel like I'm cheating because the stock regulator seems to work good at higher power settings in .22, I think most people get them in .177 but I might be wrong. I think instead of buying a Huma for mine I'd much rather buy a nice Simmons pistol scope 8)Amazingly I have had the same results with mine in .22
I feel like I'm cheating because the stock regulator seems to work good at higher power settings in .22, I think most people get them in .177 but I might be wrong. I think instead of buying a Huma for mine I'd much rather buy a nice Simmons pistol scope 8)Amazingly I have had the same results with mine in .22
...But your experiences gives me good hope.
5. ...There is a link above for the rings. Bob recommended breech ring to be polyurethane, anyone has idea where to get it?
6. Scope.
7. Learn more about shooting pistol properly. I am using one hand to hold the scope and the other hand to pull the trigger, resting the gun on a sandbag. I may need to learn how to shoot without support for hunting purpose.
finally got the huma, day and night between fiddling with the factory, I settled around 795 to 805 almost 40 shots, very little hammer spring . 105 bar DavidDavid, sounds like big improvement, what caliper is the PP700 ?
I received my Huma a week ago and have not had time to install and test it.
David did you remove the old regulator or just bypass?
I have no idea I just read about it being done rather than removing the stock regulator but that is another can of doable worms. ::) Mine is still bone stock and pretty much untouched other than a very light polish of the trigger groupDavid did you remove the old regulator or just bypass?
If bypassed, how is this done?
Just take the screw out that holds the white disc in, that's it put all the parts back but the screw, be sure the disc is centered. David
As far as number 7 goes, you don't need anything fancy (read: expensive), but you could use shooting sticks in the field (internet pic):
(http://www.gameandfishmag.com/files/2011/12/shoot-sticks.jpg)
Wolverine shooter (or anyone else this would apply to), if you're not going to dive into your pistol before the 1st of Nov, I can place an order for all these o-rings and make you a little o-ring package. If the quantities in the above post are correct, I can put together 10 complete o-ring packages for anyone who would like to do their own tinkering. I just don't need 10 extra complete sets of o-rings. I'll use a set, keep a set on stand by... I wouldn't charge shipping or anything, they would just go out in the mail. I wouldn't care whether or not people took me up on the offer, as it just means many more back ups for me.
EDIT: Let me know what y'all think on the Duro (70 or 90), and the material, for which (as far as location) o-ring. Calling out what sizes from above go to what part would be good as well. That way, it'll be a darn good replacement package! Heck, I may even order double, and make 20 sets... just in case there's people like me, who waited to get this pistol, or is a noob (well, more noob than me!). ;D
I really like the trigger on mine the way it is, I have used it quite a bit since I bought it though. Basically the only thing I did with mine was a little bit of honing soon after I bought it on the friction parts.
If you are careful it can be inserted just use a soft cuticle stick to help it in also a light coat of silicone divers grease
Greg, if you remove about 1/16" from the right side hand grip it will allow you to swing the gate open a few degrees more to make the O-ring replacement a lot easier.
My original o-ring was dry and I managed to damage it in 20 shots or so and started to feel a puff of air every time I pulled the trigger ::) So you know the rest Ultimox #226 works well also
Fan Boy, well maybe but in reality this little shooter is fun to play with. At 25 yards I can easily kill 12oz soda cans all day long. I think that this is a better pistol in .22 but you know what they say about opinions. ;D ;D
I haven't run a complete string but have shot at least 15 to 20 shots at 25 yards with the only poi being due to my shaky hands ::) The regulator seems to be fairly stable on the .22 version most of the complaints seem to be on the .177 version having regulator stability issues . The cure for that is the Purpose made Huma regulator which many have already installed.
About the factory regulator, I can't think of any fundamental reason it would work differently for .22 cal vs. .177 cal. It just seems to be very nonlinear. The bigger the difference between the setpoint and the cylinder pressure, the more variation there is. So in other words, a higher setpoint will give better consistency. Mine is behaving nicely after I burnished the valve seat and adjusted the setpoint to around 1500psi. In .177 cal, that produces 13fpe without any changes to porting. I had intended to tune it to 8 or 9fpe but when I backed down the setpoint, the results were not satisfactory so I just enjoy it at the higher power level.
Granted, if it were fitted with a shoulder stock, I would have different aspirations for it because I would want to stretch it out to longer distances. For that, I suspect the factory reg would be inadequate. But as it stands, it will put a variety of different pellets into a dime at 25 yards when rested and that exceeds my expectations for an air pistol.
BTW, this nonlinearity is a function of the forces acting to close the valve and those acting to open it. That part's pretty obvious, right? Well, the force acting to close the valve is simply the output pressure...ideally, that stays the same. However the force acting to open it is a combination of the Belleville stack and the cylinder pressure. So as the cylinder pressure changes, so does the force. The way to minimize the effect is to make the valve aperture very small. That way the cylinder pressure acts upon a very small area and only represents a small fraction of the Belleville force. The competing issue is that a tiny aperture affects recovery rate and that's why makers of paintball regulators walk a fine line to balance the two. But it's not really a concern for a single-shot pellet pistol like this so I suspect SPA could have done a better job here. I kinda eyeballed the reg when I had it apart to see if there was an easy way to address it but it wasn't obvious. If any of you smart fellas have an idea, I'd love to hear it.
Greg, the valve (silver cap behind the transfer block) has 2 o-rings-one on either side of the port in the transfer block. These are designed to seal that area to prevent air loss there but the design has its issues. The block rotates around the diameter of these o-rings when opened and closed. On mine, most of the air leakage seemed to be coming from the o-ring area between the transfer block and the barrel. A little baby powder ligthly applied to the area may help you seek where the air is coming from when fired.I tried hard to feel if there is an O-ring but did not feel any, felt more like metal or plastic at the connection point at the bottom of the block. On both sides. Since my breech O-ring is bad so the leaky air could be coming from there instead. Once I change the breech O-ring I can try to see if there is a leak at bottom.
Greg, the o-rings sit in grooves in the silver valve and are covered up by the transfer block when the valve is screwed in. You are not able to see them unless you unscrew and remove the valve from the pistol and then the transfer block from the valve. Air flows through the center of the valve and exits through an opening in the valve BETWEEN the 2 o-rings then goes up the transfer block port. That is how the transfer block is sealed to the valve.
I followed Bob's suggestions and removed the grip. Then it is fairly easy to replace the breech O-ring. So I am all set for this initial mods.
Other mods would require opening up the barrel and air cylinder. I will probably do that later , to at least change all seals.
Greg I've got mine set so it drops off the reg at about 100bar, I suppose I could eke out a tad bit more power from it but for my purposes this is good enough. ;)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4392/36611375781_50aa69bb20_b.jpg)
Greg I turned the adjustment clockwise 1/8th turn from the out of the box settings, it's really impossible to accurately adjust a pcp without a chronograph. I also had to back off on the hammer spring tension because the way that it came from the factory it was set at coil bind.
Greg, turning the regulator clockwise will increase the power and the set point on the PP700.
That is the reason a lot of us put set screws at the breech end to hold that collar there that the barrel screws into. That way, you can unscrew the piece on the end and remove the shroud with no problems. Right now, the collar on the other end of the barrel at the breech is turning when you turn the piece on the end of the shroud. You need to figure out a way to keep the breech end from turning, and then the end piece and shroud will come right off :)
Any more info on that transfer block Donny? it's news to me ;DI don't have much info. At the time he showed me the picture, he said he didn't think he was going to make anymore, because it was such a pain to make. I got the impression that the effort required to make it outweighed the benefit. Maybe Rocker1 will chime in and confirm that.
Any more info on that transfer block Donny? it's news to me ;DI don't have much info. At the time he showed me the picture, he said he didn't think he was going to make anymore, because it was such a pain to make. I got the impression that the effort required to make it outweighed the benefit. Maybe Rocker1 will chime in and confirm that.
i wonder if i can get a .20 barrel and breech built for my pp700w in .177 ?
just dreaming, but who knows ???
soon as Lee gets his new design shoulder stock built and tested...
i will have one of them too... 8)
;) T&E is that Trial and Error or Test & Evaluation ;Di wonder if i can get a .20 barrel and breech built for my pp700w in .177 ?
just dreaming, but who knows ???
soon as Lee gets his new design shoulder stock built and tested...
i will have one of them too... 8)
I will be releasing my 3d model prototype tonight:D I am going to machine the first one this week for T&E.
;) T&E is that Trial and Error or Test & Evaluation ;Di wonder if i can get a .20 barrel and breech built for my pp700w in .177 ?
just dreaming, but who knows ???
soon as Lee gets his new design shoulder stock built and tested...
i will have one of them too... 8)
I will be releasing my 3d model prototype tonight:D I am going to machine the first one this week for T&E.
I'm started out as an electronics tech working in the engineering dept in a company called ISC Telephonics on Long Island NY that's why I made the post because many times test and eval was trial and error with a little informed guess work;) T&E is that Trial and Error or Test & Evaluation ;Di wonder if i can get a .20 barrel and breech built for my pp700w in .177 ?
just dreaming, but who knows ???
soon as Lee gets his new design shoulder stock built and tested...
i will have one of them too... 8)
I will be releasing my 3d model prototype tonight:D I am going to machine the first one this week for T&E.
LOL! You got me. Test and Evaluation but a little trial and error isn't too far off when creating something new.
I could pretty easily get a CNC version of the block made, but I didn't want to step on anyone's toes. If no one else is going to do it though...
Here is my PP700 stock adapter concept. This stock will allow you to use any AR buttstock. There is built in adjustment for proper sight alignment. The mount replaces the grip plug for the mounting system and the mod is non-permanent.Very good !!
(https://s6.postimg.org/57ge609p9/PP700_Prototype_Stock_1.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/57ge609p9/)
I have a small mill and a lathe and making the blocks are time consuming ,it would be hard to offer them for sale at a realistic price for me, but someone with better machinery than I could and should, Matt made the first one. So any of you guys that wish to make them go for it. DavidI'm on it...I could pretty easily get a CNC version of the block made, but I didn't want to step on anyone's toes. If no one else is going to do it though...
I'm on it...
Here is my PP700 stock adapter concept. This stock will allow you to use any AR buttstock. There is built in adjustment for proper sight alignment. The mount replaces the grip plug for the mounting system and the mod is non-permanent.Very good !!
(https://s6.postimg.org/57ge609p9/PP700_Prototype_Stock_1.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/57ge609p9/)
I'm ready when you are..... 8)
How much ?? for the stock adaptor
Understood but I will allow you to PM me the info that way we will not break any rules ;D ;D No rush just something I want to play around with. I just think this plinker could be fun as a carbine.How much ?? for the stock adaptor
That's a no no. I will get in trouble for listing prices here and it is too early to tell until I have a physical model but I will know next week.
Understood but I will allow you to PM me the info that way we will not break any rules ;D ;D No rush just something I want to play around with. I just think this plinker could be fun as a carbine.How much ?? for the stock adaptor
That's a no no. I will get in trouble for listing prices here and it is too early to tell until I have a physical model but I will know next week.
Lee,
I have a light mounted on the shroud using a rail and a couple of reverse dovetail mounts. It works great and out of the way. Then using a QD mount I can remove the light when not needed.
Somehow I did not get both photos in the first post?
I didn't see any POI change using a red dot scope.. Now my LED (IR or Red LED) light is very small 1.0 OD x <4.0 inches long and light.LOL! Thanks for that. I think I have a few magpul rails floating around, I will give it a try.
pardon the pun. I know you can come with a better shroud rail mount than mine. Send me a PM if you need anymore info.
The pp700sa is definitely on my short list.
Where would you order from? US or overseas?
And what caliber? Heck I'll probably end up with both eventually.
Thanks guys. Just ordered the .22. I'll let you know how it shoots. 8)If it is anything like mine it can be addicting to shoot. I have already burned through almost a tin of JSB 13.43 pellets in fact I need to put in an order for 10 tins most of my .22 rifles love them
im very satisfied with mine too. i also invested in huma reg, hawke red dot, weihrauch silencer and adaptor.
BUT which gun for ~500$ could beat this PP700W now ? i have no idea :)
precision, shot count, extremly low differences in fps, simplicity... its an amazing good pcp pistol!!
i can dissesamble and rebuild mine in under 15min with a total different setting.
Great work Lee!
I've got mine running pretty good now, but it's still got a leak somewhere. Suggestions??
I'm working towards production on the guided breech block. They will be stock looking w/ black anodize so they should look factory except for the guide part.
Estimated MSRP on them is in the $25-$30 range. Is that OK?
Who is interested?
That pellet tray is awesome. And since I have a 3d printer I designed something similar:
(https://i.imgur.com/h1fuGf7.jpg)
First prototype, printed at 0.2mm resolution so it looks rough...
Its a snap on fit with a magnet that is directly over the breech block port adjustment screw.
That pellet tray is awesome. And since I have a 3d printer I designed something similar:
(https://i.imgur.com/h1fuGf7.jpg)
First prototype, printed at 0.2mm resolution so it looks rough...
Its a snap on fit with a magnet that is directly over the breech block port adjustment screw.
That pellet tray is awesome. And since I have a 3d printer I designed something similar:
(https://i.imgur.com/h1fuGf7.jpg)
First prototype, printed at 0.2mm resolution so it looks rough...
Its a snap on fit with a magnet that is directly over the breech block port adjustment screw.
Try cocking the hammer before pumping.
Make sure that there are no nicks on the o-rings then a light smear of divers silicone grease ( just a little on finger and wipe around) that way the probe will slide in without grabbingTry cocking the hammer before pumping.
thanks.it let me get some air in up to 175 but the air is leaking ut of the pistols fill hole could it be the brass probe 0rings
Make sure that there are no nicks on the o-rings then a light smear of divers silicone grease ( just a little on finger and wipe around) that way the probe will slide in without grabbingTry cocking the hammer before pumping.
thanks.it let me get some air in up to 175 but the air is leaking ut of the pistols fill hole could it be the brass probe 0rings
Divers grease is a must when it comes to assembling pcp's !!!Make sure that there are no nicks on the o-rings then a light smear of divers silicone grease ( just a little on finger and wipe around) that way the probe will slide in without grabbingTry cocking the hammer before pumping.
thanks.it let me get some air in up to 175 but the air is leaking ut of the pistols fill hole could it be the brass probe 0rings
I will have the .177 Varmint by the end of the week ( ::) tomorrow 12/8 ) if the UPS driver remembers where my business address is this time . He tried to deliver my Pyramyd order to the wrong business Suite and they rejected it so before I could contact UPS it was on the way back to Pyramyd so I will not have my pistol scope for my PP700 S-a until next week sometime.Try cocking the hammer before pumping.
Don did you get your Varmint yet ? I didn't think that Mike had any of them left anymore according to when I try putting one in my cart on his website. I'm kinda thinking the the Plinkster might have the same barrel as the Varmint but I haven't got a exploded view pdf of the CR600W(Plinkster) to compare part numbers with the Varmint pdf.
Once I have the Varmint in hand I will Post a picture of the Varmint barrell
I received a .22 from mrodair today and the barrel was loose.
So with some 90° snap ring plyers I tried to tighten it. It wouldn't tighten. So I took it apart.
The barrel just spins. On my .177 PP700S-A it is threaded in and held in place by two setscrews. The one I got from mrodair does not have any setscrews and the barrel just spins and will not tighten.
I tried pushing and pulling while turning it and nothing happens.
Any bright ideas what's going on?
I received a .22 from mrodair today and the barrel was loose.
So with some 90° snap ring plyers I tried to tighten it. It wouldn't tighten. So I took it apart.
The barrel just spins. On my .177 PP700S-A it is threaded in and held in place by two setscrews. The one I got from mrodair does not have any setscrews and the barrel just spins and will not tighten.
I tried pushing and pulling while turning it and nothing happens.
Any bright ideas what's going on?
Well, I either fixed it or royally screwed up. Found a m3 set screw, tap and bottoming tap. Went under the rear sight, drilled down not all the way to the barrel, tapped and put a setscrew in. Barrel tightened up then. Now to put it back together...
Should I get another one of David's LDC (like I have on the .177) for the .22 or try something different?
Should I get another one of David's LDC (like I have on the .177) for the .22 or try something different?Davids works quite well on mine definitely backyard friendly with his LDC. Get the carbon fiber version it is ultra light and doesn't upset the balance
Already have the CF version on the PP700 .177Should I get another one of David's LDC (like I have on the .177) for the .22 or try something different?Davids works quite well on mine definitely backyard friendly with his LDC. Get the carbon fiber version it is ultra light and doesn't upset the balance
I really want a stock for this pistol, to turn it into a carbine. I would also like this stock to be light and quickly removable. I didn't want to spend the money on an aluminum solution I saw on this forum that requires you to also buy an AR stock and buffer tube. That combination would cost as much as the gun. So... I had this crazy idea that actually works really well for me, and can be attached or totally removed in a few seconds.
I had an adjustable monopod that attaches to a sling swivel stud just like the bipods I use on most of my rifles. I bought this monopod really cheap on sale from Natchez. It was around 10 or 12 bucks. Not too many people want a stud-mounted monopod when a bipod weighs about the same and typically costs about the same. That's probably why Natchez was selling it so cheap. The only reason I bought it years ago was because it was so cheap, even though I had no use for it at the time.
Anyway, I figured if I could put a sling swivel stud on the bottom of the pistol's grip, I could attach this thing. The existing plastic cap does not have enough meat to hold a stud, so I fashioned one out of a small piece of hard maple. I also had some 2-part epoxy putty, so I made one out of that too. Actually, I think an even easier way to do this is to wrap this epoxy putty around the existing plastic end cap to beef it up, then drill your hole for the stud. I used a stud with a nut on it (like typically used on a rifle forearm), not one with wood screw threads like typically used on the butt stock end.
The attached pictures tell the story. The end of the monopod sits in the perfect spot on my shoulder, out of dumb luck. I rest my chin on my right hand that is wrapped around the pistol grip. I have a small rifle scope with 3 or 4 inches of eye relief on this gun, not a pistol scope. As a bonus, you can use the monopod as an adjustable-length rest simply by flipping it down.
This is an idea that worked out much better than I thought it would. I was especially concerned about where the end of the monopod would touch my shoulder. Turns out it's in the perfect position, and shouldering the gun feels natural and comfortable.
Can anyone please tell me the proper name for nuts of the type shown in the attached picture? This is the barrel shroud nut on the PP700S-A and there is a similar one holding the swinging breech door and valve, but I want to know the generic name for nuts of this type. I'd like to purchase a tool to remove these types of nuts but I don't even know what a tool like this is called. When I search on "pin wrench" I only see ones with 4mm pins for removing wheels on grinders. I know 90-degree snap-ring pliers can work (if they are strong enough), or I can make a tool using a piece of steel and drill bits. Still, I'd like to see what other kinds of tools are out there for these nuts, hopefully a stronger universal one with different diameter pins.This looks like what is needed https://www.googleadservices.com/pagead/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwico_LeyKPYAhUatcAKHfZyAiUYABAZGgJpbQ&ohost=www.google.com&cid=CAESEeD2omg6P1M2shjS3-Q4hUSk&sig=AOD64_06XUmiyMwXMEX826Qa3VF-3D-FrQ&ctype=5&q=&ved=0ahUKEwiYtOreyKPYAhVDKyYKHXNYB8sQ9aACCFA&adurl= (https://www.googleadservices.com/pagead/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwico_LeyKPYAhUatcAKHfZyAiUYABAZGgJpbQ&ohost=www.google.com&cid=CAESEeD2omg6P1M2shjS3-Q4hUSk&sig=AOD64_06XUmiyMwXMEX826Qa3VF-3D-FrQ&ctype=5&q=&ved=0ahUKEwiYtOreyKPYAhVDKyYKHXNYB8sQ9aACCFA&adurl=)
Thanks!
I just read of someone making an adjustable pin spanner wrench out of an adjustable Crescent wrench by putting pins in both sides of the wrench jaws. Genius, although it will be awful hard to drill into the jaws of a crescent wrench. My next project! Good thing I'm going to sacrifice a 5/64" drill bit, because it won't be very sharp after drilling these holes.
Does anyone know what this extra set screw if for in the breech block? My Artimus doesn't have it and the mrodair does. Doesn't seem to serve any purpose unless it's a stop to align the block. I can't think of anything else it would do.
It would add an extra operation to the guided breech block and I'm about to cut final prints for prototypes. Don't want to add any cost I don't have to.
While I'm on the subject of this little pistol, mine leaks like a sieve. Like down to zero in under an hour. So I took it all apart and now when I reassemble I need to set the depth of the valve spring retainer. Anyone know what it should be for a .22?
Lee
"With the adapter and stock mounted, you can set the sight alignment by loosening the outside screw and move the stock up or down until you find the position that suites you and then by tightening the screw again to hold it in place"
Do you mean the stock pivots on this screw to adjust for sight alignment?
Nope, no interface with the valve at all. The valve has a shoulder which keeps the block from coming off.Yep this is door stop so you can align it as you wish. Newer models have this extra hole on breech doors and it is already threaded for 2mm screw.
I think it's a stop to adjust where the block stops - think flush with the breech aligning the air hole with the pellet. It's the only thing that makes sense. The set screw doesn't go thru the block, so there's nothing to engage it other than as a stop.
I found my leak. Between the regulator and the breech. Careful inspection shows that someone got a little rough deburring the hole and the o-ring won't seal now. It was NOT me, it looked like this when I opened it.
I tried all my hones - too big. Even tried mcmaster and grainger, but nothing small enough to do the Ø.615 hole.
I've reached out to Mike via phone (VM) and email - zero response. :(
Any bright ideas? I'd hate to go at it with a dowel and emery cloth and make it worse and have Mike say I messed it up and end up with a gun that just won't seal.
Does anyone know the thread size of the factory regulator?
Don, please let us know what you think of that stock adapter when you get it and how it all works together. He mentioned you can get an AR stock and tube for under 30 bucks on eBay or Amazon, but I searched and can not find anything near that cheap. Plus, I'm not sure what size tube I'd end up with, as apparently there are two different size tubes. I know nothing about AR stocks and tubes. A turnkey solution with stock would probably generate more sales for that adapter rather than trying to figure it all out ourselves, especially if it only added $30 to the cost.I know this wasn't directed at me but I want to promptly help address your concerns.
Don, please...Plus, I'm not sure what size tube I'd end up with, as apparently there are two different size tubes...
or you can do this
(https://imageshack.com/i/pmxrOsrHj)
Well, not only did I find my leak in the .22, but I found a hone small enough to fit...in my toolbox of all places. It took a little jury rigging to make it work (a twist tie to hold one end and a little rubber cap to push the other apart), but work it did. Honed the breech and retested. No bubbling leaks found. I'll let it sit overnight and see how it does.
Craziest thing, the .177 is now holding air. Baffling.
Now on to tuning. When I took the .22 apart I unscrewed the valve poppet to look in there for damage. Sadly I didn't record how much it was screwed in. From fully in to the valve fully open I have to unscrew it 3.5 turns. David said something about 2 turns, but then the valve won't open all the way. Since I have no clue what the cause and effect is of this I'm not even sure what I'm doing, much less what to do. Hammer spring, regulator, valve spring... probably discussed in this thread, but at 57 pages, perhaps it's worth restating, if someone wouldn't mind.
Donny I'm still waiting for some parts, it's not ready to shoot yet. As I promised to peeps on the fb page, as soon as I complete the build and it pass the leak test and reg tuning if needed I'll put it through chrony and will post results
I have got it stripped down to the action body with the regulator still attached (cylinder emptied and unscrewed) and I cannot for the life of me remove the black threaded section that screws (?) onto the silver reg unit. The gun was totally empty before I started.
Whilst I'm asking does the reg adjuster screw need a special shaped hex key to adjust in situ please, as non of mine seem to fit.
I like the one I got from David (Rocker1.) It works so well I'm going to get another one for the .22
I like mine too :D
Great work Lee!
Thank you ;D Im glad she's done (after powder coat that is)! I will update my build process tonight.
Updated with finish:
(https://s6.postimg.org/chgaodqml/20171127_151109.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/chgaodqml/)
Here it is with the finished applied. The PP700 is fun as a pistol but after doing some more shooting with and the stock, I like it better as a handy little carbine. What a fun gun! I couldn't miss those little spinners.
Great work Lee!
Thank you ;D Im glad she's done (after powder coat that is)! I will update my build process tonight.
Updated with finish:
(https://s6.postimg.org/chgaodqml/20171127_151109.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/chgaodqml/)
Here it is with the finished applied. The PP700 is fun as a pistol but after doing some more shooting with and the stock, I like it better as a handy little carbine. What a fun gun! I couldn't miss those little spinners.
I just received the AR Stock Adapter that Lee designed and fabricated. It Fits great and the design and machining is 100% first class. Having the LOP adjustable by designing it around a AR-15 Stock allows my 9 and 11 year old grandsons to shoot the PP700 as a carbine.
Thank you for the feedback ;D I hope you all get max enjoyment out of it, Cheers!Great job, what I like about it is that the door is open for so many options by using the AR stock to include a folding adapter.
An M4 hex wrench fits it.
;) ;D ^^^^ What he said ten minutes and the PP700 S-a is a carbine and with the Rocker1 LDC it looks ready to snipe some bird feeder raiders 8) 8)Thank you for the feedback ;D I hope you all get max enjoyment out of it, Cheers!Great job, what I like about it is that the door is open for so many options by using the AR stock to include a folding adapter.
Thanks Lee for a great job.
Looks great!There are AR butt stocks available with adjustable cheek risers if needed
I wonder about whether the cheek piece is too low for proper cheek weld and eye alignment with a scope, though..
Anybody have a scope mounted yet? Can you post pics, please?
If the alignment issue is a non-issue, then I am in... ;)
:-) chickie
Looks great!There are AR butt stocks available with adjustable cheek risers if needed
I wonder about whether the cheek piece is too low for proper cheek weld and eye alignment with a scope, though..
Anybody have a scope mounted yet? Can you post pics, please?
If the alignment issue is a non-issue, then I am in... ;)
:-) chickie
Looks great!I added a AR stock extension to the stock which results in perfect eye alignment for me.
I wonder about whether the cheek piece is too low for proper cheek weld and eye alignment with a scope, though..
Anybody have a scope mounted yet? Can you post pics, please?
If the alignment issue is a non-issue, then I am in... ;)
:-) chickie
Thank you for the feedback ;D I hope you all get max enjoyment out of it, Cheers!Great job, what I like about it is that the door is open for so many options by using the AR stock to include a folding adapter.
Thanks Lee for a great job.
Anyone have any recommendations for a good quality AR folder. I like the LAW tactical...but in another world for price.
Rob
Got my stock adapter from Lee today. Thanks Lee. I also want to thank David Furr for the nice tune he did on my pistol along with the installation of the barrel grub screw. The Airmax is a whole 3 pounds lighter than the Colibri even with that big ol' UTG scope on it.
Tried a red dot and didn't like that. Might try to find a pistol scope later on? Using what I got for now. Had the Huggett and the UTG laying around so put them to use here.
Ha, need me a little mini bipod mount for the Airmax now? LOL
Nice looking setup Jimmy, where did you get the LDC from? Looks nice and slightly larger in diameter to me.
BTY, nice guns buddy!
Got my stock adapter from Lee today. Thanks Lee. I also want to thank David Furr for the nice tune he did on my pistol along with the installation of the barrel grub screw. Took me a while to learn not to rest the air tube on the bag when sighting in. It has to be rested tight up against the trigger guard if you plan on shooting tight groups.
Don't know why it took me so long to realize it as I had the same problem with the Colibri and as you can see in the photo the bipod mount on the Colibri is positioned at the end of the air tube flush with the action for best accuracy.
Took pics of it along side my Colibri and my .22 Cricket Carbine for reference. The Airmax is a whole 3 pounds lighter than the Colibri even with that big ol' UTG scope on it.
Tried a red dot and didn't like that. Might try to find a pistol scope later on? Using what I got for now. Had the Huggett and the UTG laying around so put them to use here.
Ha, need me a little mini bipod mount for the Airmax now? LOL
Thanks Lee, lets see what ya got? Got any pics? I'm game if it's small and will fit the tube very close to the trigger guard.
How about a clip on pellet tray to make loading the pellet easier? Do you make those as well?
This rail fits the tube, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01C9XFDZM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01C9XFDZM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1) but you'll have to cut a notch in the shroud.
This rail fits the tube, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01C9XFDZM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01C9XFDZM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1) but you'll have to cut a notch in the shroud.
That's a good idea, just hate to notch the shroud. Thanks
I'm thinking something along this line except have the pic rail instead of the sling stud?
That's something I can make. I don't like permanently altering guns like these that the user can't easily go back to stock configuration. I have sling studs on hand, I will get started on the design.
That's something I can make. I don't like permanently altering guns like these that the user can't easily go back to stock configuration. I have sling studs on hand, I will get started on the design.
Lee, can you make one like that with a picatinny rail on the bottom instead of the stud?
Has anyone considered a replacement trigger guard with a rail that protrudes out below the air cylinder? It would also be a great spot for a pistol laser as well.
Has anyone considered a replacement trigger guard with a rail that protrudes out below the air cylinder? It would also be a great spot for a pistol laser as well.
I was just thinking about this the other day... I was also thinking about using the trigger guard screw holes as possible mounting points for a forearm...
This is the stock set up I've been using since last summer. It allows for a great cheek weld and is very light wieght. It also carries extremely well and I can hold it like a cane with out the can hitting the ground. It also gives the option of a pistol or carbine in under a minute.
This is the stock set up I've been using since last summer. It allows for a great cheek weld and is very light wieght. It also carries extremely well and I can hold it like a cane with out the can hitting the ground. It also gives the option of a pistol or carbine in under a minute.
I used a set of high UTG rings with a 1/2" aluminum rod. I also used some 1/2" fuel line for added comfort. Works great. I can regularly hit golf balls at 60 yards and even 80 a few times. I call her The Green Gremlin. She's tuned for 685-690 fps for about 37 shots with .22 crosman piranhas. Dead quiet and a blast to shoot.
Hi everyone. New to the gate. Got my pp700 two days ago. Bought the airmax mk2. Really like the pistol already! But purchased it with the idea of turning it into a carbine for backpacking. Seen some awesome ideas on this thread! I really like the Ar stock adapter and wonder how or who to contact about one. I also really liked sawtoothscreams wood bull pup stock. Great job on that one! Wish I had the time/ability to make my own. I think the Ar stock would be a better light weight option though for my application.
Has anyone considered a replacement trigger guard with a rail that protrudes out below the air cylinder? It would also be a great spot for a pistol laser as well.
One guy did make a .25 cal, he sold the gun but I think he may still have the barrel still?Has anyone considered a replacement trigger guard with a rail that protrudes out below the air cylinder? It would also be a great spot for a pistol laser as well.
That sounds like a really great idea. It would give a factory look that's reversable.
Has anyone given any thought to a .25 cal conversion?. I know it would not be a straight swap and would require engineering work which is beyond my skill level....but it would make a great pistol/carbine.
Does anyone know of any tricks to getting the end cap off my pp700sa? I'm trying to replace it with a 1/2x20 adapter. It seems like the whole barrel is just spinning. I had my finger on the barrel at the breach and I can feel it spinning when I turn the end cap.It may now be the time to drill and tap the breech for a barrel retainer set screw.
That's what I've seen in this "regulated" pistol. I think it needs to be taken apart and the regulator worked on, just like mine.
You can crank up the power by doing some mods and by removing the crappy stock "regulator" but your shot count will be terrible as much as your es. This gun have lots of potential as a matter of fact, 40 joules/ 30fpe are easily achievable in my setup.
This pic is at 150bar of working pressure using 25.62gr bullets
Ha, I knew you could do it. Let me know when it moves into production ;-)
Unfortunately no, my gun is heavily modified compared to stock pp700. But before i went hpa route I done the mods Donny (the original creator of this post) describes in first pages also completly removed the "reg", tuned the gun and was making 30 shots of 21fpe with acceptable extreme spread. The thing is that this gun best preform in 150bar range.
my current setup
Ha, I knew you could do it. Let me know when it moves into production ;-)
I will begin this weekend. I am going to have two diffent configerations. One is a short rail section about 1.250" and the other will have a full length under rail with two mounts that will be under 6.00" inch length.
Unfortunately no, my gun is heavily modified compared to stock pp700. But before i went hpa route I done the mods Donny (the original creator of this post) describes in first pages also completly removed the "reg", tuned the gun and was making 30 shots of 21fpe with acceptable extreme spread. The thing is that this gun best preform in 150bar range.
my current setup
Unfortunately no, my gun is heavily modified compared to stock pp700. But before i went hpa route I done the mods Donny (the original creator of this post) describes in first pages also completly removed the "reg", tuned the gun and was making 30 shots of 21fpe with acceptable extreme spread. The thing is that this gun best preform in 150bar range.
my current setup
Thanks Mike for letting me know that I am not alone - what did do to the regulator to improve?
I had taken it apart because it had developed a symptom of reg creep. I found a bit of debris on the regulator's valve seat as the likely culprit so I cleaned it and then burnished the pieces together to help ensure a good seal. Those pieces are the white washer and the tapered surface of the screw that passes through it. For the burnishing, I used some J-B bore paste and some medium metal polish compound (in stick form; scraped some off with a razor) to make a slurry, and used a handheld drill to grab the shaft of the screw and spin it against the washer.
The Belleville washers didn't have any noticeable burrs but I went ahead and lightly smoothed both sides with 400 grit wet/dry paper, and lubricated them when I reassembled. By the time I had put maybe 30 shots over the chronograph to dail in the regulator and hammer spring, it seemed to settle in nicely. No sign of reg creep now. Walked outside last night and put 3 shots over the chronograph to see how it was doing and they read 850, 853, and 849. Can't really ask for any better than that.
I tried only once to back down both the reg and hammer to about 700fps (9fpe) but the ES was unacceptable. That was shortly after I had reassembled so maybe I'll try again after some break in time.
In hindsight, it occurs to me that it might be worth it to try flipping the white washer upside down to help with the reg creep issue. The two tapered faces that form the valve seat are not ideal. They represent a fairly large area of coplanar surfaces, and the pressure must jam the screw hard enough to deform the washer to form a seal. By flipping the washer over, the tapered surface of the screw meets with a small sharp edge of the washer, focusing the force over a much smaller area and thus making it easier to seal.
I remember someone saying their washer was upside down and to watch out for it but I don't know if he related it to a specific problem. It certainly would have been easy to conclude it was incorrectly assembled because it seems obvious that the two tapered surfaces were designed to fit against each other. But now I'm wondering if it wouldn't benefit from flipping the washer over. If any of you guys get inspired to try it, please report back.
Unfortunately no, my gun is heavily modified compared to stock pp700. But before i went hpa route I done the mods Donny (the original creator of this post) describes in first pages also completly removed the "reg", tuned the gun and was making 30 shots of 21fpe with acceptable extreme spread. The thing is that this gun best preform in 150bar range.
my current setup
I'm guessing the second gauge that you've added to the body is to show the reg pressure?. Rob
Ha, I knew you could do it. Let me know when it moves into production ;-)
I will begin this weekend. I am going to have two diffent configerations. One is a short rail section about 1.250" and the other will have a full length under rail with two mounts that will be under 6.00" inch length.
I prefer the short rail ( 1.25" ) so I can mount it as far back towards trigger as possible.
That's what I've seen in this "regulated" pistol. I think it needs to be taken apart and the regulator worked on, just like mine.
Thanks Mike for letting me know that I am not alone - what did do to the regulator to improve?
QuoteThanks Mike for letting me know that I am not alone - what did do to the regulator to improve?
Greg, mine needs to be worked on. I have not done it yet. Here's something nervoustrigger wrote and what I will eventually try on mine. He reported back that it solved his regulator creep problem:QuoteI had taken it apart because it had developed a symptom of reg creep. I found a bit of debris on the regulator's valve seat as the likely culprit so I cleaned it and then burnished the pieces together to help ensure a good seal. Those pieces are the white washer and the tapered surface of the screw that passes through it. For the burnishing, I used some J-B bore paste and some medium metal polish compound (in stick form; scraped some off with a razor) to make a slurry, and used a handheld drill to grab the shaft of the screw and spin it against the washer.
The Belleville washers didn't have any noticeable burrs but I went ahead and lightly smoothed both sides with 400 grit wet/dry paper, and lubricated them when I reassembled. By the time I had put maybe 30 shots over the chronograph to dail in the regulator and hammer spring, it seemed to settle in nicely. No sign of reg creep now. Walked outside last night and put 3 shots over the chronograph to see how it was doing and they read 850, 853, and 849. Can't really ask for any better than that.
I tried only once to back down both the reg and hammer to about 700fps (9fpe) but the ES was unacceptable. That was shortly after I had reassembled so maybe I'll try again after some break in time.
In hindsight, it occurs to me that it might be worth it to try flipping the white washer upside down to help with the reg creep issue. The two tapered faces that form the valve seat are not ideal. They represent a fairly large area of coplanar surfaces, and the pressure must jam the screw hard enough to deform the washer to form a seal. By flipping the washer over, the tapered surface of the screw meets with a small sharp edge of the washer, focusing the force over a much smaller area and thus making it easier to seal.
I remember someone saying their washer was upside down and to watch out for it but I don't know if he related it to a specific problem. It certainly would have been easy to conclude it was incorrectly assembled because it seems obvious that the two tapered surfaces were designed to fit against each other. But now I'm wondering if it wouldn't benefit from flipping the washer over. If any of you guys get inspired to try it, please report back.
Yeah, that can a problem.Thanks for the idea. Litterally right after i posted that i gave it one more try and it came apart.
Look for a hard piece of wood with a nice cutted edge and insert this into the barrel. maybe this is enough to top the spinning.
Haha! Okay thanks for clearing that up, Donny!
That reg looks like it should do the trick a bit better for sure! You could also put an o-ring inside the piece that the white disc sits in. There is one in the kit that fits perfectly around the edge of it around the bottom of the threads. I gained a lot of efficiency cranking my reg up higher than need. You want a good snappy report. It will almost sound quieter than it should, which means the valve is closing before the pellet leaves the barrel, and it uses much less air. I say try at 115-125 bar, and see what happens :D My new version is hanging out in customs right now :(
Not sure if it was this thread or not but I bought a stainless one from England I think, can't remember exactly where I bought it, it's been a while.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4693/27190912389_a2a5a5c158_b.jpg)
I got mine from TRRob https://www.trrobb.com/SMK_Artemis_Pre-Charge_target_pistol_Stainless_Steel_Filler_Probe/p1449438_17414808.aspx (https://www.trrobb.com/SMK_Artemis_Pre-Charge_target_pistol_Stainless_Steel_Filler_Probe/p1449438_17414808.aspx)
I just measured mine and it's about .312 but it does work good with my pumps and tank fill adapter. I have had it for about a year now.Not sure if it was this thread or not but I bought a stainless one from England I think, can't remember exactly where I bought it, it's been a while.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4693/27190912389_a2a5a5c158_b.jpg)
I got mine from TRRob https://www.trrobb.com/SMK_Artemis_Pre-Charge_target_pistol_Stainless_Steel_Filler_Probe/p1449438_17414808.aspx (https://www.trrobb.com/SMK_Artemis_Pre-Charge_target_pistol_Stainless_Steel_Filler_Probe/p1449438_17414808.aspx)
I received my TR Robb fill probe today and as others have mentioned, it is too big to fit into any female foster's that I have (5 or 6). I sent him an email a few minutes ago, so we will see how this goes. The one he sent for my PP700 measures .315" and the others that I have (Edgun, Crosman, JoeB, etc) measure about .310"...
I just measured mine and it's about .312 but it does work good with my pumps and tank fill adapter. I have had it for about a year now.
I received my TR Robb fill probe today and as others have mentioned, it is too big to fit into any female foster's that I have (5 or 6). I sent him an email a few minutes ago, so we will see how this goes. The one he sent for my PP700 measures .315" and the others that I have (Edgun, Crosman, JoeB, etc) measure about .310"...
That reg looks like it should do the trick a bit better for sure! You could also put an o-ring inside the piece that the white disc sits in. There is one in the kit that fits perfectly around the edge of it around the bottom of the threads. I gained a lot of efficiency cranking my reg up higher than need. You want a good snappy report. It will almost sound quieter than it should, which means the valve is closing before the pellet leaves the barrel, and it uses much less air. I say try at 115-125 bar, and see what happens :D My new version is hanging out in customs right now :(
I've just ordered my Huma reg. I presume that the 'o' ring replaces the white disk and isn't fitted as well?. This site has cost me a fortune so far :-)
Hi,
i cranked the stock reg. up and left it in. no problem and i got extrem low fps spread.
Hi,
i cranked the stock reg. up and left it in. no problem and i got extrem low fps spread.
Thanks for the reply. I'll probably show my lack of knowledge here but.......
Having looked at the reg, I presume that air has to bleed through the original white washer. I was considering machining a delrin plug to go under the original reg adjuster screw to block it off. The top hat arrangement that you made looks like it seals the area in which it seats totally........does there no need to be some flow is air into the original reg mounting?
Hope I've not been too confusing
Rob
Hi,
i cranked the stock reg. up and left it in. no problem and i got extrem low fps spread.
You mean with Huma regulator?
I ordered 2 SS probes from TRRobb last summer. They were just slightly too large to fit into the female foster fitting but easily fixed by slight turning of the collar on the probe. Once that was done they fit in place, retain, and fill great. Certainly should not have to do this and it should have been corrected by now (assuming these mentioned are newly purchased) but there aren't any other options beyond the stock brass as far as I know and my stock brass ones were denting pretty badly whereas the SS ones are still perfectly smooth. I am glad I had access to the SS ones.
Fresh off the mill, here is the new rail adapter. It slides over the tube and is secured with a non maring set screw and a plastic disk for extra protection.
Nice work! That rail turned out great.
Fresh off the mill, here is the new rail adapter. It slides over the tube and is secured with a non maring set screw and a plastic disk for extra protection.
Vash,
Looks good, but will you be anodizing them?
If so, I'll take one also...
:-) chickie
For some reason i camt get the rail pics to pull up.
This thread is killing me! I bought a used Pp700w 2 weeks ago. It was shipped to me in under a week but the seller forgot to include the fill probe. So while I waited and still waiting for it, I have read these 60+ pages all the way through. Twice! What really not worthy is that I had 4 days off work to play with it. Any one have an extra fill probe?
This thread is killing me! I bought a used Pp700w 2 weeks ago. It was shipped to me in under a week but the seller forgot to include the fill probe. So while I waited and still waiting for it, I have read these 60+ pages all the way through. Twice! What really not worthy is that I had 4 days off work to play with it. Any one have an extra fill probe?If you're struggling I have a spare new one...I'm in the UK, but would be happy to help you out.
Hi.
I would start at 120 bar, and see what you achieve with your particular gun and pellet choice.
If you look at a posting I made a while ago https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=139000.msg1414294#msg1414294 (https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=139000.msg1414294#msg1414294) you will see that I achieved about 9.5 ft-lb ME with my Huma at 120 bar. It is a good starting point for you, I think.
I have always bought all my O-Rings at the O-Ring Store, and been very happy.
I believe that the barrel breech o-ring is the 1.5mm x 9mm. But many people prefer the 90 durometer hardness.
Have fun. These guns are so great, and the Huma makes them even better.
Frank
I started combing this thread from the beginning, I made it to Pg 19... I'll go through the rest if I have to, but...
I have a Gen2 (black grip, non-round barrel shroud) .22 PP700 I haven't torn into yet. I have a few questions before I do:
- I'd like to install a HuMa reg- what pressure should I request if I'm looking for around 9-10 fpe? 12 fpe? I don't want to go above 12 fpe... This is for close range pesting, and I DO have to worry about over-penetration, with regard to damage to what's behind the target. i.e. roof shingles, wood around the roof of a house/building. Max range around 20 yards.
- I snagged the list of o-rings from the first couple of pages:
1.5mm X 4mm Buna-N 70
1.5mm X 5mm Buna-N 70
1.5mm X 8mm Buna-N 70
1.5mm X 9mm Buna-N 70
1.5mm X 11mm Buna-N 70
1.5mm X 12.5mm Buna-N 70
1.5mm X 13mm Buna-N 70
3mm X 21mm Buna-N 70
Is this list/sizes still accurate?
Do we know what size o-ring will be good to use for the "3mm x 21mm" size? I remember people finding a hard time finding that particular size.
Which one of the above sizes is the barrel breech (or chamber) o-ring?
Speaking of o-rings, how is the quality of o-rings from the o-ring store online? Has anyone found a source for higher quality o-rings?
- Has anyone found a better way to hold the barrel than drilling/tapping a 3mm hole for a grub screw? I'd rather not do that, if at all possible.
I think that about covers my questions/concerns... TIA y'all!!
Here is the size list I made from the schematics I got from another source, and I attached the pdf:
PART NO. SIZEmm QUANTITY
6 12x1.5 1*
11 14x1.5 1*
13 16x1.5 2*
24 7x1.5 1*
25 15.5x1.5 2*
31 8x1.5 2*
33 11x1.5 2*
35 27x3.1 2
...I will note that I was unable to find a 27x3.1 o-ring, but I did find a 27x3. I haven't tried to install it to know if it will work.
FYI, the 3.1x27mm isn't called out correctly. In the spares that come with the gun, there is a 3.1x21. Its outside diameter is ~27mm but metric O-rings are described by the inside diameter.
With that said, it doesn't seem to be a standard size based on Marco Rubber's chart:
http://www.marcorubber.com/userAssets/file/size-charts/CommonMetricSizes.pdf (http://www.marcorubber.com/userAssets/file/size-charts/CommonMetricSizes.pdf)
A 3x21mm will surely work. I suspect a -211 (3.5x27.3mm) in 50 durometer would probably work fine as well.
Is anyone here in the States making new fill probes for these pistols yet? Just wondering.I know Huma sells stainless steel fill probes.
Hello, Im new here, a great forum, Ive read this thread until page 34 now, will keep reading as I have time.... but in the meantime I would just try to ask 2 things about my PP700W 5.5mm...
By the way, what a great little pistol :D
I removed the airtube, was just fixing the leak where the white nylon sits(its all ok now)...
And while I hade those parts on my table, I just thought I would check how the regulator is build up... så I completely took the regulator apart, The I realized when I was going to put the regulator together, how long in should the "intake valve needle part nr 32" be screwed in? I remember it was not completly turned in against the white plastic"intake valve washer nr 31", it was some play, so when i reasambled the regultaor together, I gave some play...... Is there a way to know if that little screw/valve needle is to much in or out? or should it be tighten as far as i goes? There is some threads left on that little screw, so I can take if further in, but Im not sure its right?
The pistol shoots ok now, so its working, but I hate to keep thinking and not knowing if that little threaded screw is the right distance down into the "valve piston nr26",,, this keeps me sleeping bad :(
I think the play between the little screw and the white platsic washer was around 1mm or so when I put the regulator together... And I could have tightened it more of course, but was sure that "play" needed to there.
Sorry for my bad english
Sebbe
Your English is better than most who post, but I am afraid that I am not qualified to answer your question.
Someone here will know, and will respond.
Enjoy your pistol. I love the two that I own.
Frank
Looks like pretty good English to me Sebastian! And I am keeping my eyes open to see how you get along with your new pistol. I just acquired one too and am always eager to see how people overcome difficulties.will post all my work info right here ;)
I was so excited that I braved the heat after my radiation to try this thing out.
I was really bummed when it shot 16cm left of the bull at 5m. But I went inside and pulled the barrel and put it back on and snugged things up and this was my result.....10 shots with Quiang Yuen training pellets at 10m rested with the iron sights. The circle is 1”. Or about 25.5mm or so. I shot ten getting sighted in and ten on target so that’s 20 shots from 190bar to 140bar. Not too bad out of the box.
EDIT: I did measure the green orings, they are 21x3,08, So I think maybee 21x3,2 or 21x3,3 would be better....
Mine still leaks, like 10 bars in 24 hours, not OK...
Disambled the pistol today, cleaned everything, polished where the regulator goes in the block, just in case..
Replaced the orings in tube with some 20x3.5mm I had, put an extra oring outside where the white plastic washer is(the facebook mod).... Put all together now, filled it to 100bar, will let it be there for 1 hour, then fill it to 160-180 bar, then keep my fingers crossed..
I know for sure the valvestem(its called valve core and firing pin in the part list) is the same in PR900W, CP1 and the CP2, but is it the same in the PP700?
Question:
What tool did y'all use to take this apart:
(https://i.imgur.com/0g52QwK.jpg)
BSJ- Worked beautifully... Thank you! Now to replace all these o-rings, polish up the trigger parts, re-assemble and hopefully have no leaks!!
Side note- using the factory belleville's, what's the set up to "bypass" the reg? I have a HuMa I'll be using to handle regulation. Do I need to purchase spacers?
BSJ- Worked beautifully... Thank you! Now to replace all these o-rings, polish up the trigger parts, re-assemble and hopefully have no leaks!!
Side note- using the factory belleville's, what's the set up to "bypass" the reg? I have a HuMa I'll be using to handle regulation. Do I need to purchase spacers?
I can't remember for sure. I removed ALL of the reg guts(including washers), and made a piece to seal it with the adjustment cup. I think Huma has the directions on their site though!
I turned all the washers to face the same direction and cranked the adjusting screw nice and tight.
Yes. reassemble 'normally' with the washers facing the same way.
The groove idea came earlier in this thread.
With the grooves, you can fully tighten the tube...
When looking for my post, I saw you asking about what pressure setting for 10 ft/lb. I used 110 bar and hammer spring adjustments on mine to get to 10 ft/lb.
I am a new owner of a PP700SA in .177, and have been kind of lurking here for awhile, while trying to decide if I really like the pistol, and intend on keeping it.
My first issue was the crummy sights, which are a joke, but I just purchased an inexpensive reflex dot sight off Ebay for about $20.00. The sight was manufactured to fit an 11mm dovetail with no adapters, was a clean install, and it works great. I am now in love with the pistol, plan to use it a lot, which brings me to my question.
The intended use is punching paper indoors at no more than 10 meters. I am not looking to see how much power or velocity I can get from it, but would like to set it up for maximum shot count per fill, and low fps is fine. My other pistol is a Gamo Compact which has a velocity of about 470 fps or in that range, which is fine with me.
In it’s present form (stock) the pistol works great, and has no leaks or problems, so I prefer not to do a major disassembly other than removing the grips if possible.
Without going thru a long program of chrony testing are there any ballpark settings that will get me closer to my goal? I am not looking for perfection, just a moderate improvement if that is possible.
Any suggestions would be welcome.
Thank's David
Any updates on this pistol. I just ordered one from A&H in Spain although I think it's on back-order. Just wondering how Donnys mod went and what results he achieved. Is anyone shooting the stock version and if so what's the verdict? Is it accurate at 30 meters? Beyond?
Just looking for some info.
Cheers
Joe P.
Any updates on this pistol. I just ordered one from A&H in Spain although I think it's on back-order. Just wondering how Donnys mod went and what results he achieved. Is anyone shooting the stock version and if so what's the verdict? Is it accurate at 30 meters? Beyond?For hunting purposes my 22 is great at 30 yards, I actually shot a small ground hog with mine last summer with a great head shot on the state land that I hunt in one of the bean fields.
Just looking for some info.
Cheers
Joe P.
The first time that I ever looked through and shot through a pistol scope it was mounted on a Smith&Wesson 44magnum model 29 a friend set up for deer hunting, what a sweet gun that was and ever since that I've been tempted to get me a big magnum pistol just for hunting deer because that gun ended up downing several deer throughout the years that I know of. Those old model 29's are rare to find in good shape now.
Hi all,
I've tried a lot things to solve the breech air blast of mine,
until I developed a "special" jig for the breech.
No more breech blast anymore. What do you guys think
about it:https://youtu.be/rgNYWlTHRLw.
Finally got to try the Falcon(JSB) 13.4gr pellets in my Crosman barreled PP700. Very happy with the results, the dot in the pic is about 3/4" in diameter and @ 30 yards. I pulled the first one. This was with a $20 4x, with crosshairs that completely cover the dot.
The best part is that I just removed/reinstalled my scope/wire stock assembly and it held zero great.
I just saw the "not Travis" on your avatar, hahaha! I imagine it was necessary though :D Looks like you got that little guy shooting good. I may have missed it, but why does it have a Crosman barrel on it? Was your factory barrel bad, or did you want a longer barrel? I have a 4x on mine, and it does make it hard to do good groups, even though the gun is certainly capable of it.
I just saw the "not Travis" on your avatar, hahaha! I imagine it was necessary though :D Looks like you got that little guy shooting good. I may have missed it, but why does it have a Crosman barrel on it? Was your factory barrel bad, or did you want a longer barrel? I have a 4x on mine, and it does make it hard to do good groups, even though the gun is certainly capable of it.
Very necessary(although I doubt many read it)! I first broke the air stripper in half while tensioning the barrel, so made a new one and then broke the barrel itself at the threads on the breech side.
The barrel is very thin at the thread valleys, like .025". I ended up boring out the breech to accept the thicker Crosman barrel and used set screws on the top to retain it rather than making a new nut.
Okay- I just want to be sure about something, with regard to the HuMa reg install:
I'm not comfortable making a groove in the threads w/a file. I'll do it if I HAVE to.
The HuMa instructions say to leave the o-ring off of the rear endcap, in addition to leaving a very small gap between the tube and end cap so that the reg can breathe. Who else has done this? Is it really okay to leave out the o-ring? I just want to make sure before attempting to fill it for the first time to do a leak test... TIA
OOhh man, wicked bad leak... I'll try to track it down in the morning. :(
OOhh man, wicked bad leak... I'll try to track it down in the morning. :(
Make sure you put a light film of silicone grease on the o-rings prior to re-assembly. Let us know what you find.
Finally had the chance to machine up a stock I designed a few months ago...
This is just the prototype and needs some refinement as well as grip panels made.
Finally had the chance to machine up a stock I designed a few months ago...
This is just the prototype and needs some refinement as well as grip panels made.
Here's mine...
Hi all,
Here's my 30 shot string in m/s:
1-223 -200bar
2-224
3-224
4-224
5-228
6-230
7-232
8-235
9-235
10-237 -160bar
11-240
12-240
13-240
14-241
15-241
16-241
17-240
18-239
19-238
20-237 -130bar
21-234
22-234
23-231
24-229
25-226
26-224
27-221
28-218
29-215
30-214 -100bar
What do you guys think about it?
Finally had the chance to machine up a stock I designed a few months ago...
This is just the prototype and needs some refinement as well as grip panels made.
...I am really pleased with it in most aspects, with the exception of the standard grips that come with it... I did find was a company called Rat Grips, who sell moldable thermoplastic material to allow you to form your own grips that fit your hand perfectly... This being my first try, the results are really ugly, but the fit is incredibly good... it worked so well for me, I wanted to share it with others.
Very nice!! Are these going to be available to purchase in the future?
Man, I really want one of those folding stocks for the pp700. I signed up to get notified if they become available from pullthetrigger.
As far as slippery grips, I had the same problem but just cut some strips of grippy tape and stuck it on the handle, and never slipped again.
Man, I really want one of those folding stocks for the pp700. I signed up to get notified if they become available from pullthetrigger.
As far as slippery grips, I had the same problem but just cut some strips of grippy tape and stuck it on the handle, and never slipped again.
If you're struggling to find one, let me know and I'll check the postage prices......if its cheap enough I can send you one.
Rob
Oh, here's a few pics:Nice breech block :D
(https://i.imgur.com/2CN3G7S.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/hagvHs5.jpg)
I know, the reservoir isn't fully threaded on... These pics were taken before I received my answer about the o-ring being left out. Thanks again!!
EDIT: I've now pulled the end cap o-ring and I've backed off the reservoir a bit, as instructed. Now for the leak-down test. I've filled her to 3k, and we'll see how she's doing in the morning. Crossing fingers there's no leaks...
Man, I really want one of those folding stocks for the pp700. I signed up to get notified if they become available from pullthetrigger.
As far as slippery grips, I had the same problem but just cut some strips of grippy tape and stuck it on the handle, and never slipped again.
If you're struggling to find one, let me know and I'll check the postage prices......if its cheap enough I can send you one.
Rob
I can't seem to find one on any continent!
Taking mine out today for a hunt. I need a new scope soon though, 2 x isn't enough and the hairs are extremely thin and get lost really easy in the woods.
Not sure if I want to get another pistol scope or use a small rifle scope.
my pp700 was stored for a few months and now it became very loud (im limited to 5,5fpe and it was dead silent)
but im still in the limit. it has a huma reg installed and the stock regulator was just cranked up - worked fine for a few tins.
i removed the factory reg. adjuster and all washers, put 2 thick o-rings in and 2 washers on top and surprise, its NOT leaking.
with THAT professional modification it should not do anything or is it possible that its now just runing on a very low pressure setting ? im not sure if i have understood the stock regulator completly ?!
it looks for me more like a bleed valve with spring tension from the allen head adjuster and the washers ?!
right know i can push the striker by hand and release the air. its need a lot of force but it is possible.
is this possible with a reg setting around 60-80 bar ? (huma reg. should be at that range)
Nice looking stock!
https://www.epayments.co.uk/epages/es774039.sf/sece134ccb7a0/?ObjectPath=/Shops/es774039/Products/4409 (https://www.epayments.co.uk/epages/es774039.sf/sece134ccb7a0/?ObjectPath=/Shops/es774039/Products/4409)
I always get 10-50fps higher speed when I sit down and record the speeds and pressure and then come back to shoot, than the subsequent shots.
This is my stock tuning experience and I think I experienced your "Double Umberella" this weekend tuning .177 box stock.
I started at the top with regulator all the way in and hammer at maximum, opposite of your starting point. It produced bell curves with no regulated flat velocity string. I then began backing out (CCW) the reg screw until a flat string began to occur at 1 3/4 turns out (green string).
Backed the reg out another 1/4 turn CCW and also reduced (CCW) the hammer 2 full turns Yellow String- Double Umberella maybe? definitely below the set point with some valve lock up front.
One turn up on the hammer (CW) produced 24 shots @4% (Pink String)
Wanting some more shots I backed out the hammer 1/2 (CCW) just below set point as it finishes with a velocity spike (minor double umbrella), but 40 shots at 4.4% spread and 10.3 FPE. I will shoot with this for a while as it shoots 812FPS with the H&N Terminators which holds a 1/2 zero to 34 yards.
I think there is a meeting with the dremel in the future.
I also think "Double Rainbow" is funnier than "Double Umbrella" ...
I digged up my old testing results.
The first string the hammer is at maximum and produced a relatively stable short string. Syhould be fine for hunting purpose.
The second string I reduced hammer by one full turn, produced the double umbrella or double rainbow. In retrospect it looks pretty good. But at that time I ticked with it more and never got back to this string.
Okay I went ahead and tried a single series Belleville stack.
Each washer is 0.016" thick and 0.023" tall (meaning the travel to compress flat is only 0.007"). That means the original 5x nested stack (( )) (( )) (( is 0.039 * 5 = 0.195" tall. So to make a single series stack approximately the same height, I needed 0.195 / 0.023 = 8.5 washers so I rounded up to 9.
Something else I did while I had it apart was to try an idea I threw out way back in this thread, and that was to flip over the white washer in the regulator. My thinking was the tapered screw fitting against a tapered recess in the washer is too large of a surface area to seal well (prone to creeping). By flipping the washer over, it puts the tapered screw against a crisp edge. Granted I did burnish the two together just a bit to make sure they mated cleanly but not enough to make an obvious bevel on the washer. Someone mentioned accidentally doing that and it wouldn't work but I suspected they threaded the screw into the brass piece too far and just sealed it off, so I applied a bit of threadlocker and left some room for the screw to move up and down (open and close).
And well, it looks like it's working. It was getting late so I haven't fiddled around with the setpoint and hammer spring much yet but it looks like its regulating very well. I chronied 20 shots and they were all between 632 - 640fps (1.25% ES) before the onslaught of mosquitoes drove me back inside.
635
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I know this tune won't appeal to many people but 7fpe is a good place to be in a short-barreled gun as far as I'm concerned. That's close enough to the 8fpe I was wanting when I first got it a year and a half ago. One nice benefit is I was able to back off the hammer spring to the point where it just barely holds the hammer against the valve stem and that has significantly lightened the trigger pull.
Not sure yet what the shot count will be but the needle is moving very slowly compared to the previous tune, as well it should.
Of course I thought I had this thing licked once before and it proved me wrong so I'll report back after using it a bit.
Okay I went ahead and tried a single series Belleville stack.
Each washer is 0.016" thick and 0.023" tall (meaning the travel to compress flat is only 0.007"). That means the original 5x nested stack (( )) (( )) (( is 0.039 * 5 = 0.195" tall. So to make a single series stack approximately the same height, I needed 0.195 / 0.023 = 8.5 washers so I rounded up to 9.
Something else I did while I had it apart was to try an idea I threw out way back in this thread, and that was to flip over the white washer in the regulator. My thinking was the tapered screw fitting against a tapered recess in the washer is too large of a surface area to seal well (prone to creeping). By flipping the washer over, it puts the tapered screw against a crisp edge. Granted I did burnish the two together just a bit to make sure they mated cleanly but not enough to make an obvious bevel on the washer. Someone mentioned accidentally doing that and it wouldn't work but I suspected they threaded the screw into the brass piece too far and just sealed it off, so I applied a bit of threadlocker and left some room for the screw to move up and down (open and close).
And well, it looks like it's working. It was getting late so I haven't fiddled around with the setpoint and hammer spring much yet but it looks like its regulating very well. I chronied 20 shots and they were all between 632 - 640fps (1.25% ES) before the onslaught of mosquitoes drove me back inside.
635
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I know this tune won't appeal to many people but 7fpe is a good place to be in a short-barreled gun as far as I'm concerned. That's close enough to the 8fpe I was wanting when I first got it a year and a half ago. One nice benefit is I was able to back off the hammer spring to the point where it just barely holds the hammer against the valve stem and that has significantly lightened the trigger pull.
Not sure yet what the shot count will be but the needle is moving very slowly compared to the previous tune, as well it should.
Of course I thought I had this thing licked once before and it proved me wrong so I'll report back after using it a bit.
You said "I know this tune won't appeal to many people". Why not? What's the problem with this tune?
Hope he(Klaus) can get it fixed,if not he should try to bring his experence with this pistol here.Would be a shame to loose the great Info he has accumulated.
I've tried to before, but maybe it is time I try to drag him over to GTA again :D I'll see if I can talk him into it,lol.
Hey Guys... wintertime is toytime!
Because of Rallyshark i bought this gun in .22 + Huma Regulator + thread Adapter ;D
Huma was set factory for around 120 bar. I also screwed out the hammer preload vor 1,5 turns because i just got 20 shots of it before. Now its about 30ish. Couldnt mesure the fps because i have now chrony but i would like to ask you if you have problems with the LDC alignement with the thread adapter? I got a massive shift of POI and also bad accuracy at 6 yards with it. With LDC its also louder than a .22lr with ldc, much louder than the BSA Buccaneer with the same LDC. I guess there is just to much waste of air. If i screw out the hammerspring preload even more the fps goes down massiv.
Regards!
Dont get me wrong, everything is really tight. Its really easy if you push against the Barrel while you turn on the Adapter. I could turn it even more, but i am afraid the Barrel cracks because its so thin. I also got a lot of lead chunks in the LDC. But if i look through the barrel it looks like its perfektly aligned. I also got the loading chamber pretty good to seal after i screwed in the silver part of the valve body. If i hold the LDC into a pillow its quiet as it should be. So my theory is that it dumps too much / too long air so that the pellet gets another push after it exits the muzzle. Maybe i have to play more with the regulator setup /hammer tension.
Right now this gun really packs a punch and shoots through 15mm of MDF
Thinking about putting a longer barrel on the pistol,for more accuracy and better power. What is the general concenus,chocked or un-chocked ,in .177. maybe aprox 2 inches longer. I have a lathe so can do the turning down,crown work myself.
Thinking about putting a longer barrel on the pistol,for more accuracy and better power. What is the general concenus,chocked or un-chocked ,in .177. maybe aprox 2 inches longer. I have a lathe so can do the turning down,crown work myself.
"Jfyi barrel length has zero to do with accuracy"
Might want to research a bit before making such a bold all inclusive statement.
Please educate me. What has barrel length to do with accuracy?
Made up a 177 barrel for it and cannot believe how many shots it gets. About 2/3 down the green on the gauge with 50 shots. Looks like 70 shots on tap.
hey,
i got now 2 top caps from spa air cylinders that are both leaking out off the fill port - not from the gauge!
i removed the gauge and the head screw thats inside. i cant see how to get access to the fillport valve.
can someone help me out ?
Enjoying my PP700SA a lot!I contacted Snowpeak about a fully adjustable sight for the PP700SA, and found that the sights from their co2 pistol will fit. I have them in hand, but need to find the time to drill and tap one hole in the receiver. The rear sight slides on the 11mm dovetail, and the elevation screw also acts to anchor the sight assy.
Made up a 177 barrel for it and cannot believe how many shots it gets. About 2/3 down the green on the gauge with 50 shots. Looks like 70 shots on tap.
Anyone come up with a better set of sights for this pistol I would love to hear about it.
Cheers
Walter
That sounds promising. What about taller front sight?I purchsed the tall front sight too. All the parts cost about $2.00, but close to $15.00 to ship.
Pics will be great.
Walter
Press on thebreech oring and bushing with your thumb and then turn the muzzle nut should turnGood luck on the thumb press. I think the muzzle part was assembled by Godzlla. It's possible that wicking in some red locktight at the breech might work, but I am not ready to do that yet. If I did I would have to heat the receiver if I ever wanted to remove the barrel.
Taller front sight? Dovetail style?
David, do you have a drill press with precise depth stop?Where would I find the details for this mod?
If so could you drill for the setscrew mod to hold the bush from turning?
I think I had to pull on the shroud to keep it under tension while taking the shroud/barrel off to keep that rear collar from spinning. After I got it off, then I drilled and tapped the breech/receiver area to accept a grub screw on each side to lock that rear barrel collar in place.I tried to hold the shroud against the barrel but it didn't work. The muzzle part is really jammed on tight. There is another way, which is to use a dremel and files to extend the dovetail all the way to the rear of the receiver. Then I could slide the rear sight on from the back of the pistol.
You can stick a piece of wood or plastic into the barrel and try to stop it from turning.
To be able to slide the rear sight onto the dovetail, I will need to remove the barrel shroud, but I am having trouble taking it off. I tried turning the fitting at the muzzle with a pin spanner but it made no difference. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Hi, I"m new to GTA and been reading this thread on the PP700. Well you guys got so excited I ending up buying a .22 over the weekend from Krall. Just got the notice that it has been shipped. Looking forward to shooting it and maybe some mods as well. 8)DUNH DUNH DUNH, another bites the dust !
I just Installed the new Breach Block / Pellet tray from MonsterMaxx on This little add on is a must have mod nicely finished wit excellent fit and finish. Now loading pellets into the breach is a simple process without the fumbling around trying to line up the pellet with my fat fingers and poor eye sight ::) ;D
Is this like what JSAR sells? I google it and didn't find anything. Do you have a link?
My PP700 was shipped on the 23 from Krall. Just got a notice from UPS that it will be on doorstep tomorrow. WOW! Two days shipping. Why can't USPS be that quick. ;DI would suggest shooting at least a 1/2 tin to a full tin of pellets through it. Let everything settle in. Then you can chrono it, get a baseline and go a-modding. I haven’t done a thing to my .22 and it shoots nicely indeed.
Locking the barrel from rotating with a grub screw will let you skip a lot of grief...I can see why they do it. Not sure why the factory doesn't.
Couple of things I noticed right off. Barrel shroud very loose. Checked the muzzle fitting on the end of the barrel very loose. I can spin it off with my fingers. The other thing I noticed no safety? My $30 P17 has safety. I will completely go thru this before shooting it to make sure it is safe. Must of been built on a Monday or Friday. ;D
;) ;D If you read this thread from the first page you will see that these are great little pistols but like many break barrel ( Gamo ) or low end PCP rifles it requires TLC to reach full potential. Good luck and enjoy it for what it is a tinkerer's dream come true. ;DDon, you are correct. This thread wants me to dust mine off and go out to play.
Couple of things I noticed right off. Barrel shroud very loose. Checked the muzzle fitting on the end of the barrel very loose. I can spin it off with my fingers. The other thing I noticed no safety? My $30 P17 has safety. I will completely go thru this before shooting it to make sure it is safe. Must of been built on a Monday or Friday. ;DTake a look under the front sight. On the ones I have been selling from Snowpeak there is a tension grub screw underneath the front sight.
I just Installed the new Breach Block / Pellet tray from MonsterMaxx on This little add on is a must have mod nicely finished wit excellent fit and finish. Now loading pellets into the breach is a simple process without the fumbling around trying to line up the pellet with my fat fingers and poor eye sight ::) ;DGlad you like it. Does make things easier doesn't it?
The one I got from mrodair was totally loose so I put my setscrew under the rear sight. Works perfectly. I couldn't get mine apart so I drilled it assembled. Drill into it until you hit steel and use a bottoming tap to tap the hole. Setscrew and all fixed. Put the sight back on and the mod is totally hidden.Couple of things I noticed right off. Barrel shroud very loose. Checked the muzzle fitting on the end of the barrel very loose. I can spin it off with my fingers. The other thing I noticed no safety? My $30 P17 has safety. I will completely go thru this before shooting it to make sure it is safe. Must of been built on a Monday or Friday. ;DTake a look under the front sight. On the ones I have been selling from Snowpeak there is a tension grub screw underneath the front sight.
This is a newer feature, so may or may not be on yours, but if there you may just need to tighten it. Here is a photo from a member on the Canadian forum.
Regards,
Wes
I was hoping not to have to tear it apart. :(You will have to take it apart. Maybe not today or next week, but you will. It’s no big deal.
After reading all 77 pages of the “PP700 adventure started(Artemis PP700s-a)” thread, I made my decision to buy the Artemis PP700s-a. Thanks Rallyshark for starting the thread and everybody who contributed. Just received my Artemis PP700s-a in .22 from Krale. Ordered Monday night and received today. Great buying experience. I decided on Krale based on various inputs on GTA. I mounted a TRUGLO Red-Dot 2x42mm sight on it and shot about 60 pellets (10 to sight in and the rest for fun). Initial impressions are it is loud, fairly accurate, the trigger is better than expected, the shroud is a bit loose and the pistol is a lot of fun. Based on inputs from other posters I also bought a DonnyFL LDC adapter. I have 2 of DonnyFL’s LDC’s for other airguns so my issue with how loud it is will be taken care of in the near future. Also ordered a JSAR Pellet Load Breech Block and PP700 Carbon Tensioned Barrel Kit for it. Hopefully the LDC adapter and barrel kit will solve the loose shroud issue. I bought the Carbon Tensioned Barrel Kit because I like the look of a carbon round shroud and it may lighten the barrel end of the pistol. I plan to chronograph and do some initial accuracy testing this weekend.I just bought one too from Krale. Mine arrived in two days. It's amazing how quick they are.
;) ;D If you read this thread from the first page you will see that these are great little pistols but like many break barrel ( Gamo ) or low end PCP rifles it requires TLC to reach full potential. Good luck and enjoy it for what it is a tinkerer's dream come true. ;DLike your new Avatar. ;D
A cheap pistol doesn't end up being so cheap after all. ;)
It is not about the cost it is about what we can do with it and the potential
I have read in the beginning of this topic that people are exchanging the standard regulator for a Huma.
Why is that? The one coming with the gun not good?
Good job on the pigeon, Will. Good stalking to get within 30 yards of a wary bird.It is not about the cost it is about what we can do with it and the potential
I agree 100%, many of the add-ons do nothing for raw performance ... this gun is already a little monster. I'm shooting 177 cal 10.5gr CPUM's at `12fpe, ... she is a beast. If this gun was a 22cal I would be in the 14fpe range for sure !!
Went out this am and my PP700S-A got another Feral Pigeon under her belt at 30 yds. My PP700W is at home and I need to bring here to the dance too ;- )
wll
I have read in the beginning of this topic that people are exchanging the standard regulator for a Huma.
Why is that? The one coming with the gun not good?
Thanks for the O-ring sizes!
By the way, the O-rings on mine are green which suggests they are HNBR (hydrogenated Buna-N). It is a superior material to standard Buna-N in the areas of abrasion resistance and temperature. Granted I don't know anything about the quality of these particular O-rings, I'm just saying it's better if all other things are equal.
I'm not sure why they went with it across the board, though. The only ones that would benefit from it are the breech block O-ring and regulator spool O-rings. All the rest are static O-rings. Speaking of the abrasion resistance. The temperature rating is irrelevant.
Is it doable to get more power in a good way without having a chrony?
At 20 FPE you'll be running lower efficiency, but you'll be making holes in what you shoot.
I usually tweak my .177 up to 14 FPE give or take, but I just recently backed it back down to ~ 12 FPE with Beeman Silver Jets on account of enjoying eye-socket and ear-canal shots at 19 yards on squirrels.
One of the better purchases a shooter can make for a PP700 is quality glass with a fine reticle. I don't mean expensive glass- just something that lets you utilize the accuracy these little pistols are capable off. Chances are as you test pellets you'll find a number of pellets that group weel. Mine shoot 4 different pellets with excellent accuracy, and groups well enough with 19 other pellets that at 20 yards I can shoot groups you can cover with a silver-dollar. Another worthwhile purchase, IMO, is a folding stock, the LDC adapter, and a decent LDC to take the crack off the shot cycle. I know a lot of folks have experience regulator creep, but mine is still holding solid after 2+ years. I have around 16,500 pellets through mine, and it remains my most-shot airgun, surpassing even my modified 1377.
Okay, ordered one in .22. My goal is to get 20fpe out of it. Saw a guy on Youtube having this by just turning in the hammerspring and the regulator.Owning a PCP without a chronograph is kinda like buying a car without a speedometer. It can be done but you will be doing a lot of guessing.
My problem is i don't have a chrony (yet).
Is it doable to get more power in a good way without having a chrony?
Any tips on how far i should turn both screws?
My .177 also likes 11-12 FPE. This is where the stock reg was most reliable and without creep. Lower pressures delivered inconsistent results.When I turned mine down 10-ish FPE, I found the first 3 or 4 shots were erratic, then it was +/- 5 FPS per my Caldwell until it fell off the regulator. At 14 FPE, every shot was on-point. At 12 FPE, that first shot after refilling to 220 bar is low. If I fill to 200 bar, the regulator just seems more "regular". I cannot imagine one of these under 6 FPE. Sure it would be fun with a long shot string, but my pistol is primarily a squirrel-killing tool (with occasional HOSP duties).
Is there any body out there that is making precision barrels for the PP700?I just built my own. I didn’t figure anybody was making barrels that were worth as much as the gun. Don’t put the cart in front of the horse, your stock barrel might be pretty good. Mine was. I could always find pellets it liked. Sometimes had to adjust the velocity a little.
Ok, my PP700 is finally done and I am happy with it. As I stated before it was an awkward pistol and a goofy, kinda flimsy compared to my Leshiy carbine. I bought it for a pistol that I can just grab when I go investigate a downed critter or when I go fill my feeders. It took a couple months of barrel building, measuring and some gambling. It is now a balanced pistol that shoots 10.5’s 640fps and 7.3’s 760fps with great accuracy. I played with a couple barrel and shroud combos but it seemed to like barrel tension. So I made a steel threaded adapter, flat sided it so I can tighten it with a wrench and put a target crown on it so it doesn’t look shoddy. I then blued it and made a nice cap for the threads. I am using a LW 8.5” barrel and Huma reg. I get 15 shots on the reg and it is a total of 26 pumps to refill it. I have watched every thread on this gun an was very surprised that nobody went this direction. Everyone just keeps making the already big gun bigger. Total investment $640 plus my labor. Still cheaper than my Ataman AP16.You shortened the air chamber as well? What's on the side of the breech?
Shorter barrel, shroud and air chamber. Pellet dispenser.Ok, my PP700 is finally done and I am happy with it. As I stated before it was an awkward pistol and a goofy, kinda flimsy compared to my Leshiy carbine. I bought it for a pistol that I can just grab when I go investigate a downed critter or when I go fill my feeders. It took a couple months of barrel building, measuring and some gambling. It is now a balanced pistol that shoots 10.5’s 640fps and 7.3’s 760fps with great accuracy. I played with a couple barrel and shroud combos but it seemed to like barrel tension. So I made a steel threaded adapter, flat sided it so I can tighten it with a wrench and put a target crown on it so it doesn’t look shoddy. I then blued it and made a nice cap for the threads. I am using a LW 8.5” barrel and Huma reg. I get 15 shots on the reg and it is a total of 26 pumps to refill it. I have watched every thread on this gun an was very surprised that nobody went this direction. Everyone just keeps making the already big gun bigger. Total investment $640 plus my labor. Still cheaper than my Ataman AP16.You shortened the air chamber as well? What's on the side of the breech?
I like it. Nice work.Shorter barrel, shroud and air chamber. Pellet dispenser.Ok, my PP700 is finally done and I am happy with it. As I stated before it was an awkward pistol and a goofy, kinda flimsy compared to my Leshiy carbine. I bought it for a pistol that I can just grab when I go investigate a downed critter or when I go fill my feeders. It took a couple months of barrel building, measuring and some gambling. It is now a balanced pistol that shoots 10.5’s 640fps and 7.3’s 760fps with great accuracy. I played with a couple barrel and shroud combos but it seemed to like barrel tension. So I made a steel threaded adapter, flat sided it so I can tighten it with a wrench and put a target crown on it so it doesn’t look shoddy. I then blued it and made a nice cap for the threads. I am using a LW 8.5” barrel and Huma reg. I get 15 shots on the reg and it is a total of 26 pumps to refill it. I have watched every thread on this gun an was very surprised that nobody went this direction. Everyone just keeps making the already big gun bigger. Total investment $640 plus my labor. Still cheaper than my Ataman AP16.You shortened the air chamber as well? What's on the side of the breech?
Dont see how you getting that many shots at those speeds with that small air tube. DavidI do. Lots of experimenting with the valve for peak efficiency has helped for maybe 3 more shots. Not important if you are getting 30+. But 15 is better than 12.
Dont see how you getting that many shots at those speeds with that small air tube. DavidNow you know why I need a 3 baffle. Your are so light that they don’t mess with the balance of the gun.
Dont see how you getting that many shots at those speeds with that small air tube. David
Just got my first kill. This sucker has been buzzing me all evening. He finally landed on the coffee table. All I could grab was pistol or a water bottle. Killed him with 0fpe. Took a while to find his carcass. Found him piled up in the dining room.
All done. It's on the bottom of the tube you can hardly see it. I don't want to leave anything loose. I touched up the groove with a sharpie. ;)
Looking forward to it but still have some mods to finish on it. The Huma was set at 125 so that's where I will begin.All done. It's on the bottom of the tube you can hardly see it. I don't want to leave anything loose. I touched up the groove with a sharpie. ;)
Can't wait to see the update on the tuning with that Huma in there. It is a game changer with these little pistols in my opinion ;)
I feel like I'm the solo owner of one that has been remarkable free of problems.Mine is also running fine out the box, no leaks, yet, 30 shots averaging 670-674 FPS. 190 rats and counting.
However, it is still, IMO, the best 1st PCP for a new owner given the full set of features and tunability available without having to purchase anything.
WOW! This thing is a cannon and kicks like one. Sounds like a shotgun going off. The neighbors will be calling the cops for sure. Have Rocker1's LDC on it and still way to loud. Have to come up with a better plan. Filled it to 220 and got 20 shots before I see the pellets dropping. Will have to set up the chrony and see what happens. The good thing is I don't hear or feel any leaks.The DonnyFl Tanto took the bark out of my .22 pp700sa. I actually plink with it at night... the neighbors are none the wiser.
Yes I was just looking at the Tanto and the Sumo. Cost almost as much as the gun. But for me to shoot it, it will have to be quieter.WOW! This thing is a cannon and kicks like one. Sounds like a shotgun going off. The neighbors will be calling the cops for sure. Have Rocker1's LDC on it and still way to loud. Have to come up with a better plan. Filled it to 220 and got 20 shots before I see the pellets dropping. Will have to set up the chrony and see what happens. The good thing is I don't hear or feel any leaks.The DonnyFl Tanto took the bark out of my .22 pp700sa. I actually plink with it at night... the neighbors are none the wiser.
If you have a bad tune, your gun will be louder because you are wasting air. Mess around over the chronograph. I can make my gun a lot faster than it is but it gets loud and shot count not worthy. The gun will tell you where it’s running like a clock with a particular pellet. It’s just a matter if you are happy with that velocity.Good to know. Thanks!
You guys will get a laugh on this one. I thing I found out why the gun was so loud. I forgot to put the grub screw in the top of the breech block. :-[
You guys will get a laugh on this one. I think I found out why the gun was so loud. I forgot to put the grub screw in the top of the breech block. :-[
I just hope I didn't hurt anything. Plus I have a leak I have to repair.You guys will get a laugh on this one. I think I found out why the gun was so loud. I forgot to put the grub screw in the top of the breech block. :-[
I was going to say something isn't right,lol! If they are loud with David's LDC, then you probably have a leak at the breech block or where it seals against the barrel o-ring :D Granted, it has a short barrel, and they can be pretty loud(even with an LDC) when you start cranking the power, but they shouldn't be LOUD. Let us know what kind speeds you end up making with it when you're done!
I just hope I didn't hurt anything. Plus I have a leak I have to repair.You guys will get a laugh on this one. I think I found out why the gun was so loud. I forgot to put the grub screw in the top of the breech block. :-[
I was going to say something isn't right,lol! If they are loud with David's LDC, then you probably have a leak at the breech block or where it seals against the barrel o-ring :D Granted, it has a short barrel, and they can be pretty loud(even with an LDC) when you start cranking the power, but they shouldn't be LOUD. Let us know what kind speeds you end up making with it when you're done!
One more thing. On a completely empty tank and I start to fill it leaks air out the barrel. I fire a couple shots then it will fill. Need more pressure on the valve spring?There is no need to run your valve spring that light. That thing helps control your ES.
That’s a tricky one. I had a similar leak in my Leshiy. Air can leak pass your reg from the air tube. But on my Leshiy it wound up being the o rings inside the reg that let air keep coming out the vent hole on the reg. I found it through a process of elimination. I now have a very very slow leak on my PP700. It’s been apart and filled so many times that I probably just need to replace a bunch of o rings just to be safe.
One more thing. On a completely empty tank and I start to fill it leaks air out the barrel. I fire a couple shots then it will fill. Need more pressure on the valve spring?
Question, can i turn in the allen screw of the regulator with the cilinder under pressure or isn't that safe?
Maybe you’re having clipping issues with that really long LDC.
Never had an airgun, this felt like a nice one to try, feels very powerful, but I was concerned by the accuracy, so I taped down the gun to zero the sight.
Maybe you’re having clipping issues with that really long LDC.
That's certainly possible, not really sure how to fix it, not worthy but I guess I could buy a shorter LDC, I'll try cleaning the old one out, maybe even tighten the barrel first.
Got myself a chrony and wanted to know how much power i can get maxed out.
Turned in the regulator and hammerspring but the result is not very impressive. Going from 10fpe to 13.
I'm hearing +20 fpe numbers from people. How do they do this?
Got myself a chrony and wanted to know how much power i can get maxed out.
Turned in the regulator and hammerspring but the result is not very impressive. Going from 10fpe to 13.
I'm hearing +20 fpe numbers from people. How do they do this?
I found the sweet spot on mine at around 16fpe with FTT 14.66gr. I got it up toi 19, but that was wasting a lot of air. I have all stock components, regulator turned all the way up and power only adjusted with the hammer spring.
Are you on 177 or 22?
Got myself a chrony and wanted to know how much power i can get maxed out.
Turned in the regulator and hammerspring but the result is not very impressive. Going from 10fpe to 13.
I'm hearing +20 fpe numbers from people. How do they do this?
I found the sweet spot on mine at around 16fpe with FTT 14.66gr. I got it up toi 19, but that was wasting a lot of air. I have all stock components, regulator turned all the way up and power only adjusted with the hammer spring.
Are you on 177 or 22?
.22
Turning the allen bolt in (clockwise) goes not that heavy is it?
Hi, you monsters and your discussion got me to buy a PP700s-a .22, got mine from a 2nd hand dealer so I'm not entirely modifying from scratch.A guns accuracy also has a lot to do with the guns harmonics. You killed that by strapping that thing down. If you are not a good pistol shot, several different kinds of sandbags can really help you get the gun supported nicely so you can just focus on your trigger squeeze for accuracy testing.
Never had an airgun, this felt like a nice one to try, feels very powerful, but I was concerned by the accuracy, so I taped down the gun to zero the sight.
(https://scontent-lhr3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/60054929_2715429635140583_8291629120220037120_o.jpg?_nc_cat=107&_nc_ht=scontent-lhr3-1.xx&oh=53016bc5b25d5d024b044820841fc094&oe=5D6E59F9)
It turns out this silencer/shroud it came with (that threads on/off) seems to be what really butchers my performance, does anyone think this likely to be an issue with the attachment itself? or thread? length?
Also as many people have said the gun seems to leak air pressure, for me till it reaches around 10, I charged it to 15 for the shots above, I have a huma arriving so I'm hoping that will fix it
The gun came with some spare o-rings (should I presume these are garbage?), so maybe I'll pop those or some new ones in too.
Ordered some..
H&N Terminator Airgun Pellets .22
H&N Silver Point Airgun Pellets .22 (Most excited for)
Tried the...
H&N Sniper Magnum Pellets .22 (Most Accurate)
Norica Devast .22 (Seems faster and flatter, but they're not kind on the breech, their tails seem to rub the seal, maybe my getting them in the barrel to shift left/right, not sure!)
I've been using "power pellet lube" that came with it, I've not had any combustion using it (I'd like to keep the gun safe), not sure how people feel about using it.
Should have a Chronograph soon, looking forward to doing a bit of tinkering hopefully!
1.5mm X 4mm Metric Buna-N 70
1.5mm X 5mm Metric Buna-N 70
1.5mm X 8mm Metric Buna-N 70
1.5mm X 9mm Metric Buna-N 70
1.5mm X 11mm Metric Buna-N 70
1.5mm X 12.5mm Metric Buna-N 70
1.5mm X 13mm Metric Buna-N 70
3mm X 21mm Metric Buna-N 70
Has anyone thought about making a longer reservoir tube for these pistols?
Okay, I just got done with the valve for the most part. I tapped and plugged the three holes that don't line up with the transfer, and filled the gap with JB Weld. I also opened up the remaining hole that lines up with the transfer. I took a hair off the base of the valve to get the alignment I wanted while also bringing the transfer block a bit closer to the breach to provide a little better seal when closed. I trimmed/cleaned up the excess JB Weld before it had hardened all the way so it would be easier, and that is the reason it appears to be an odd color. It will be darker after it hardens. This should help keep the pressure up and air waste down between the valve and the pellet. Hopefully, I'll be able to test it tomorrow sometime after the JB Weld has fully hardened.
Okay, I just got done with the valve for the most part. I tapped and plugged the three holes that don't line up with the transfer, and filled the gap with JB Weld. I also opened up the remaining hole that lines up with the transfer. I took a hair off the base of the valve to get the alignment I wanted while also bringing the transfer block a bit closer to the breach to provide a little better seal when closed. I trimmed/cleaned up the excess JB Weld before it had hardened all the way so it would be easier, and that is the reason it appears to be an odd color. It will be darker after it hardens. This should help keep the pressure up and air waste down between the valve and the pellet. Hopefully, I'll be able to test it tomorrow sometime after the JB Weld has fully hardened.
Hi, after mimicking your work, could I ask; what did you use to plug the holes? There's quite a bit of depth to them (wasting air?), worried I'll end up JB welding the release pin, also what did you use to protrude the last hole?
Can I also ask do you ever find it misaligns with the breech hole, seems like that would be more of an issue as opposed to having 4 air ports feeding into 360 degree channel
Cheers!
Has anyone thought about making a longer reservoir tube for these pistols?
I'm sure some of the other spa parts from one of their guns would probably thread right on, if I were a guessing man.
If you make it any bigger it would be a seriously awkward pistol.
Problem here. Got pressure in the cylinder but not at the hammer (i think i overtightened the valve nut inside the reg).What I do is slowly press the un-cocked hammer against the edge of my workbench until all of the air is gone, from the cylinder, while pointing the barrel to a safe area.
How can i degass the cilinder safely? 1/4 turn of the air cilinder to force a leak? (read the latter somewhere else but can't find any confirmation if this is safe)
Problem here. Got pressure in the cylinder but not at the hammer (i think i overtightened the valve nut inside the reg).What I do is slowly press the un-cocked hammer against the edge of my workbench until all of the air is gone, from the cylinder, while pointing the barrel to a safe area.
How can i degass the cilinder safely? 1/4 turn of the air cilinder to force a leak? (read the latter somewhere else but can't find any confirmation if this is safe)
Problem here. Got pressure in the cylinder but not at the hammer (i think i overtightened the valve nut inside the reg).
How can i degass the cilinder safely? 1/4 turn of the air cilinder to force a leak? (read the latter somewhere else but can't find any confirmation if this is safe)
Problem here. Got pressure in the cylinder but not at the hammer (i think i overtightened the valve nut inside the reg).
How can i degass the cilinder safely? 1/4 turn of the air cilinder to force a leak? (read the latter somewhere else but can't find any confirmation if this is safe)
Tried a 1/4 turn of the air cylinder but the cylinder endcap turns also. And no leaking.
Another option could be slightly losening the pressure gauge with that special wrench that sits in the box.
Problem here. Got pressure in the cylinder but not at the hammer (i think i overtightened the valve nut inside the reg).
How can i degass the cilinder safely? 1/4 turn of the air cilinder to force a leak? (read the latter somewhere else but can't find any confirmation if this is safe)
Tried a 1/4 turn of the air cylinder but the cylinder endcap turns also. And no leaking.
Another option could be slightly losening the pressure gauge with that special wrench that sits in the box.
Are you saying that no air comes out when you cock the hammer and shoot it? If that is the case, you have the white derlin disc in backwards, or the screw that holds it is too tight, or both. I've had to unscrew my cylinder once when I did that way back. It's fine if the cylinder end cap is turning also. Either way, it will start leaking at one end or the other,lol! Just be VERY careful and slow until it starts to leak.
The thread i'm loosening is quite short. Did 2 full turns already and still no leaking.
Not comfortable doing this.
The thread i'm loosening is quite short. Did 2 full turns already and still no leaking.
Not comfortable doing this.
I hear ya on that one! I wouldn't feel comfortable, if that was where it was unscrewing either. You should probably go ahead and screw that back down,lol! I would try getting a strap wrench or something, then stick a phillips screw driver in the fill port of the end cap. Then, try to hold the cylinder and screw off the fill port end cap using the screwdriver in the fill port for leverage.
In that picture you posted about the threads, that threaded piece needs to come out of that black cap in order for you to assemble your reg properly.
Took half a turn of the gauge and it started hissing, went well. :P
So gun was performing very well, no leaks and my poundage easily got to 13.2 lbs with the Sniper Magnum (tamed it back down and stuck a stock on it).
However I messed up something, i fired my tank till it was empty and so I think without the pressure it lost... something, there was a little sigh when it emptied
I had problems refilling it, so I took it apart and wiped some excess oil off on adjusted the tightness of the washers and checked the valve plug to make sure the plastic washer was still inplace
Now the air seems to be passing straight from reservoir to exiting the barrel :(, any ideas what might be too loose/tight? The reservoir valve (recently adjusted) or the firing valve (unadjusted) and what might have caused it?
Side question; any recommendations on a compact shroud for this gun? (ideally one I can clean and reuse) At 12lbs it had a bark that might get me in trouble in my suburban surroundings
So gun was performing very well, no leaks and my poundage easily got to 13.2 lbs with the Sniper Magnum (tamed it back down and stuck a stock on it).
However I messed up something, i fired my tank till it was empty and so I think without the pressure it lost... something, there was a little sigh when it emptied
I had problems refilling it, so I took it apart and wiped some excess oil off on adjusted the tightness of the washers and checked the valve plug to make sure the plastic washer was still inplace
Now the air seems to be passing straight from reservoir to exiting the barrel :(, any ideas what might be too loose/tight? The reservoir valve (recently adjusted) or the firing valve (unadjusted) and what might have caused it?
Side question; any recommendations on a compact shroud for this gun? (ideally one I can clean and reuse) At 12lbs it had a bark that might get me in trouble in my suburban surroundings
It sounds like a combination of too much hammer spring and not enough valve spring. In other words, the hammer is leaning on the valve and it isn't sealing when the gun is empty, because the valve is slightly cracked due to the hammer putting pressure on the valve pin. Never shoot one down to empty, unless you just want to torture yourself hand pumping. Try refilling with the gun cocked, so the hammer isn't leaning on the valve pin. You can open the transfer block (just for safety if you want), with it cocked.
As far as noise level goes, a shroud isn't going to make a ton of difference. A short barrel making 12fpe can have a bark. The biggest difference in noise will be with a good LDC, AND tuning it a good bit under the knee will help a lot. When I say under the knee, I mean tuning it for around 50fps less than it is capable of at a given reg setting. The higher the reg setting, the faster the valve can close. You can also remove the valve and tighten down the valve spring adjustment some more too. The faster that valve closes, the quieter the gun will be :) Also make sure the breech is sealing well, so you aren't getting any noise from there. I hope that helps.
Clockwise to increase. The nut is cup-shaped and adds preload to the Belleville stack.
Contrasting that against regulators which have a movable valve seat, in which case counterclockwise increases the setpoint by requiring the piston to travel further before reaching the seat.
Clockwise to increase. The nut is cup-shaped and adds preload to the Belleville stack.
Contrasting that against regulators which have a movable valve seat, in which case counterclockwise increases the setpoint by requiring the piston to travel further before reaching the seat.
Ouch about the chrony! I've done that myself before. Glad you got the power back!
My probe is getting chewed up too.TRRobb.com has them in stainless from UK. 17.99. Can't find shipping cost though. GRRRRR!!!
TRRobb.com has them in stainless from UK. 17.99. Can't find shipping cost though. GRRRRR!!!
Just bought one. It is a Canadian gun in .22, will i still be able to get the good power out of it? I have some spots with some big lizards but need something the neighbors won't freak out over. Got the folding stick and it will fit in my little pack. Not sure if I love this forum or hate it...... you guys are real spendy! :)
Just bought one. It is a Canadian gun in .22, will i still be able to get the good power out of it? I have some spots with some big lizards but need something the neighbors won't freak out over. Got the folding stick and it will fit in my little pack. Not sure if I love this forum or hate it...... you guys are real spendy! :)
Thank you sir. That is what i was hoping.Just bought one. It is a Canadian gun in .22, will i still be able to get the good power out of it? I have some spots with some big lizards but need something the neighbors won't freak out over. Got the folding stick and it will fit in my little pack. Not sure if I love this forum or hate it...... you guys are real spendy! :)
Yes, it can be easily hot rodded. Mine came from Canada, and Wes did some work on it,but he has stopped doing if. Kinda worried about getting in trouble I think.
Simply enlarge the ports and uip the spring pressure. Up the Reg as well if you need. ;) I've got mine set right at 20 fpe shooting cast bullets.
Rocker1 has a nice ldc and adapter for it. Works very well!!!
Knife
Canada Shooting SupplyJust bought one. It is a Canadian gun in .22, will i still be able to get the good power out of it? I have some spots with some big lizards but need something the neighbors won't freak out over. Got the folding stick and it will fit in my little pack. Not sure if I love this forum or hate it...... you guys are real spendy! :)
Where did you get it from?
I need to start shooting mine more often because they're sure a fun gun indeed.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48256732041_f4b13163a3_b.jpg)
It's been a while since I've looked through a pistol scope and I need to practice more with it.
Just bought one. It is a Canadian gun in .22, will i still be able to get the good power out of it? I have some spots with some big lizards but need something the neighbors won't freak out over. Got the folding stick and it will fit in my little pack. Not sure if I love this forum or hate it...... you guys are real spendy! :)
Been crazy lately with storm prep, the aftermath of a miss and getting stuff over to the Bahamas. But i finally got to take this thing out of the box, put some air in and take a few shots. Not too bad with the iron sights at 10 yards freehand. One ragged hole about the size of a nickle. That's the good news the bad is it has a pretty good leak. Left it at 18 overnight it was at 15, then down to 12 and now 10 over the course of 2 days. So as i have stated in other threads i am NOT a very mechanical guy and i am not sure how much of this i can handle or should try so i will need some guidance. Where to start?
Also how do you adjust the regulator on these? Mine came set at 70bar as it is a Canadian version.
Here’s a test , crank the hammer spring to near coil bind , if it shoots faster than what you want lower the reg t’ill you get 5% faster than your wanted speed . Once the reg is set , lower the hammer tension until you get to the desired velocity. Hope that makes sense .
Happy to hear it's an easy fix.
There's a few vendors selling adaptors and silencers for this pop-pistol. I have a Rocker1 LDC/adapter (in fact, my pistol was his guinea pig) and they bring the noise to a very backyard-friendly level.
Wayne, I have two molds here on loan. One from Don, the 27 noe pellet mold. it loves them!
The other, a decked mold I did for Denis that I size down to .216 for it. Both are dead accurate! Other than when the pp77 firs arrived and I tried cpl's in it, it hasn't eaten store bought pellets in while. ;D
It's on the to do list. ;)
Mike
Thanks for taking the time to take pictures and show us exactly what you did. I appreciate it.NP :D
Nice job on the trigger work! The real test for your regulator will be how it shoots after the gun has been sitting for a while. The regs tend to creep, so velocity during testing and velocity after the gun hasn't been used for a while will vary wildly in some cases.Yes, and Im sure mine also possible have some creep, have to check that one later, Im sure the first shot is a little bit faster If I remember right..
Many, self included, have used the main grip screw mounting stock from below for a very secure mount to pistols metal.Yepp Ive seen that, my aproach this time has to be where the plates are...
Here's the adapter I made.That is sweet !! probably the best Ive seen so far, now you can use all AR style butt stock you want ..... You must have welded that together, right?
I carry mine on a shoulder strap bulldog holsterI tried to look up that holster you have there because I think it looks like it would work good for a pistol scope also but I couldn't find one on their website ???
(http://wimpanzee.duckdns.org/airguns/pp700/holster2.jpg)
That 2x dot sight is on it now, and still fits in the holster. It's a great companion for those pesky squirrels when I am out deer hunting.
I've got the normal folding stock on it too, and it is still great in the holster...don't have a pic of the holstered, scoped gun tho.
(http://wimpanzee.duckdns.org/airguns/pp700/fold.jpg)
I carry mine on a shoulder strap bulldog holsterI tried to look up that holster you have there because I think it looks like it would work good for a pistol scope also but I couldn't find one on their website ???
I sure hope we can get the PP750 as well. Looking like Snowpeak is really pushing for Diana to buy the exclusive rights to it, so all our plans to stock these may come to nothing. Glad I didn't start taking deposits! Still it's not decided yet.
The PP700SA is still free from Diana at this point. I've got a few coming and Canadashootingsupply.ca has some too as he brought them in this time.
An American seller also went in on this last shipment and got some as well, so you boys may be able to purchase pistols from him in full power, if he is modifying them for the American market. (my apologies, I don't know who the retailer is at the moment, maybe he'll chime in here)
A drill bit, screwdriver, hex wrench and chronograph is all you need to get the gun up to speed. The putt putt version just has a tiny hole in the transfer/loading block. The aluminum is so soft I didn’t even need a drill to open up the TP. I will say this, the detuned version is a sweet shooter and the shot count is off the chart when tuned perfectly.I sure hope we can get the PP750 as well. Looking like Snowpeak is really pushing for Diana to buy the exclusive rights to it, so all our plans to stock these may come to nothing. Glad I didn't start taking deposits! Still it's not decided yet.
The PP700SA is still free from Diana at this point. I've got a few coming and Canadashootingsupply.ca has some too as he brought them in this time.
An American seller also went in on this last shipment and got some as well, so you boys may be able to purchase pistols from him in full power, if he is modifying them for the American market. (my apologies, I don't know who the retailer is at the moment, maybe he'll chime in here)
Hi there Mr. Wesbob, what exactly are the differences between the Canadian, and ‘full power versions? Is it just adjustments to the hammer spring, or actually different parts like transfer port and or hammer spring?
Well, I'm working on increasing our tribe of air gunners. I just got somebody really excited about getting their first airgun -- and they want the PP700S-A.
So, who is selling the PP700 right now in the US?
(And: Is that the full-power version?)
Thanks for a quick tip, he seems to be anxious.... ;D
Matthias
Nobody in the U.S. that I know of now. Mrodair only has the .177 caliber version now, not the recommended .22 caliber. Many reports of regulator creepage on these guns, including the two I have seen; mine and my friends.They're out of the .177's too, I tried putting one in the cart but no success, by the looks of it they've only got 1 Airmax Dominator left in .22 also, I use my Dominator a lot and it's a fine gun indeed.
Mrodair only has the .177 caliber version now, not the recommended .22 caliber.
Same here. Mine shoots a fast 8.8gr HP pellet and puts the smack down on small critters. Easy to shoot because I am not trying to push more lead that will never be as flat shooting as the .177 at pistol ranges.Mrodair only has the .177 caliber version now, not the recommended .22 caliber.
Whut chu talkin’ bout, Willis? :)
I hereby recommend the .177. Very pleased with mine, especially after sorting out the creeping regulator. Not pellet picky at all. It was accurate when I had it tuned to 13fpe for pesting, and still accurate now running 6fpe for 80+ shots for plinking and targets. Very pleasant to use with this softer tune, both in terms of the report and the trigger is substantially better without so much load translated from the hammer spring.
Updated picture of my Mini. ;)
Updated picture of my Mini. ;)
Where did you get the stock adapter? That is exactly what im looking for.
Ice
I received my .22 from Canadashootingsports.ca yesterday. There are no leaks and the shot string is very consistent. However, it is the Canadian version with the tiny transfer port hole and is shooting around 488 fps with 14.3 gr pellets. I'd like to increase the transfer port size to get more velocity. Does anyone know the size of the transfer port hole on the full power version?
Thanks Donny. I think I'll start with 5/32 (.156).
I have one left in 22. :D
One of the guys that spoke for it hasn't responded to emails so it's up for grabs.
I've got a few stocks left as well.
Thanks,
Wes
Yep, gone 😁I have one left in 22. :D
One of the guys that spoke for it hasn't responded to emails so it's up for grabs.
I've got a few stocks left as well.
Thanks,
Wes
I bet that will change to "had" real soon :D
I have not had mine out in a few months, been playing with other toys in the safe. The MKII is my Chinese Leshy. I need to find a bipod mount for the air cylinder. And yes, the giant DonnyFL is overkill but it does make it backyard friendly. :)
I'm shooting just shy of 18fpe.
whats the most power have you pp700sa owners gotten to? i got one to shoot 14.3grains at 765fps on stock regulator setting.
i can see the pp700 has two main problems, leaking air and regulator creeps and leaks.
Unregulated, I got my .177 over 25 fpe with 15 grain sniper magnums(opened some stuff up ;) ). I think it would get a little more with heavier ammo. I currently have it tuned to 13-15 fpe depending on ammo. I feel pretty sure it will do 20 fpe with the Huma in it. I'm sure a .22 could probably get close to 30 fpe opened up and unregulated.
I'm up to page 50 in this thread, and wow, lots and lots of details.The orings were a good investment. Another piece of advice is be patient with the reg. The list of guys who had luck with it is about the same size as Powerball winners but I noticed a common theme. They just shot the gun a whole bunch without going for the velocity brass ring. But if on day 3 you decide to chase the velocity dragon, make very tiny adjustments to the reg. I mean tiny 1/8 turns. The bad news is with the stock reg, I see a lot of guys do the fire 2 shots at the ground before they do any shooting or post a Internet shot string. The stock reg is capable of a very tight string but it’s a creeper.
There are a lot of takeaways here that are exceedingly valuable, but my immediate concern before the pistol arrives is how many times the O-rings have been mentioned. Several posts indicated the correct sizes, and since The Oringstore is just over an hour up the road from here, I ordered 20 of each ring except for the largest 3mm x 21mm, of which I ordered only 10.
There is one consistent theme here, shared by me, and that is everyone is anxious about when their pistol is supposed to arrive, lol!
Otony
Quote from: Rallyshark link.
[/quote
Unregulated, I got my .177 over 25 fpe with 15 grain sniper magnums(opened some stuff up ;) ). I think it would get a little more with heavier ammo. I currently have it tuned to 13-15 fpe depending on ammo. I feel pretty sure it will do 20 fpe with the Huma in it. I'm sure a .22 could probably get close to 30 fpe opened up and unregulated.
How many shots do you get with your .177 set up for 13-15 fpe?
thats a good base line Donny. i haven't played without the reg yet. i do like the reg and the current 19fpe at 10mpa. it can only go up with pressure
5mm is the most i can bore the exhaust to. any larger and we will ruin the countersunk valve seat.
i never thought i would settle for 765fps with 14.3grains but its accurate as heck at 25 yards!
25 cal is cool.
I'm up to page 50 in this thread, and wow, lots and lots of details.The orings were a good investment. Another piece of advice is be patient with the reg. The list of guys who had luck with it is about the same size as Powerball winners but I noticed a common theme. They just shot the gun a whole bunch without going for the velocity brass ring. But if on day 3 you decide to chase the velocity dragon, make very tiny adjustments to the reg. I mean tiny 1/8 turns. The bad news is with the stock reg, I see a lot of guys do the fire 2 shots at the ground before they do any shooting or post a Internet shot string. The stock reg is capable of a very tight string but it’s a creeper.
There are a lot of takeaways here that are exceedingly valuable, but my immediate concern before the pistol arrives is how many times the O-rings have been mentioned. Several posts indicated the correct sizes, and since The Oringstore is just over an hour up the road from here, I ordered 20 of each ring except for the largest 3mm x 21mm, of which I ordered only 10.
There is one consistent theme here, shared by me, and that is everyone is anxious about when their pistol is supposed to arrive, lol!
Otony
Pretty sure I’m going to dream about this darn pistol tonight, and mine isn’t even here yet.
I'm up to page 50 in this thread, and wow, lots and lots of details.Good morning
There are a lot of takeaways here that are exceedingly valuable, but my immediate concern before the pistol arrives is how many times the O-rings have been mentioned. Several posts indicated the correct sizes, and since The Oringstore is just over an hour up the road from here, I ordered 20 of each ring except for the largest 3mm x 21mm, of which I ordered only 10.
There is one consistent theme here, shared by me, and that is everyone is anxious about when their pistol is supposed to arrive, lol!
Otony
Regarding the O-ring sizes, they are given on SPA’s exploded diagram. Just be aware they use the wrong convention for describing the dimensions…they list the OD. When you’re looking for replacements on theoringstore, McMaster, Amazon, etc., they will instead be described by the ID. So if SPA says M2x14, you will need to order M2x10. In other words, subtract the cross-section twice (the “2” in M2 in this example).Thanks, Jason
Another example might be M1.5x8.5, in which case you would need to order M1.5x5.5.
Regarding the creeping regulator, the fix is described here:
https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=150303 (https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=150303)
The reliable fix is a Huma Regulator.I agree 100% because I installed one in the two PP700's that I own which resulted in very consistent shots.
I just received my order from orings and more yesterday. I ordered a complete set of the m1.5 o-rings in the following ID sizes: 4mm, 5mm, 8mm, 9mm, 11mm, 12.5mm, 13mm. All are Buna-70 compound. The only other size used in the pistol is m3 x 21mm. Hope this helps.Thanks, Robert
I'm up to page 50 in this thread, and wow, lots and lots of details.Good morning
There are a lot of takeaways here that are exceedingly valuable, but my immediate concern before the pistol arrives is how many times the O-rings have been mentioned. Several posts indicated the correct sizes, and since The Oringstore is just over an hour up the road from here, I ordered 20 of each ring except for the largest 3mm x 21mm, of which I ordered only 10.
There is one consistent theme here, shared by me, and that is everyone is anxious about when their pistol is supposed to arrive, lol!
Otony
I've reviewed the thread and may have missed it.
Is there a complete list of all the O Rings posted?
If not, Anthony, will you please post a copy of your O Ring store order?
Thanks
Ed
I'm up to page 50 in this thread, and wow, lots and lots of details.Good morning
There are a lot of takeaways here that are exceedingly valuable, but my immediate concern before the pistol arrives is how many times the O-rings have been mentioned. Several posts indicated the correct sizes, and since The Oringstore is just over an hour up the road from here, I ordered 20 of each ring except for the largest 3mm x 21mm, of which I ordered only 10.
There is one consistent theme here, shared by me, and that is everyone is anxious about when their pistol is supposed to arrive, lol!
Otony
I've reviewed the thread and may have missed it.
Is there a complete list of all the O Rings posted?
If not, Anthony, will you please post a copy of your O Ring store order?
Thanks
Ed
Ordered yesterday, arrived today!
20 x 1.5mm X 4mm (NBR) Buna-N 70 Duro Metric O-Ring (N1.50X004) $1.00
20 x 1.5mm X 5mm (NBR) Buna-N 70 Duro Metric O-Ring (N1.50X005) $1.00
20 x 1.5mm X 8mm (NBR) Buna-N 70 Duro Metric O-Ring (N1.50X008) $1.00
20 x 1.5mm X 9mm (NBR) Buna-N 70 Duro Metric O-Ring (N1.50X009) $1.00
20 x 1.5mm X 11mm (NBR) Buna-N 70 Duro Metric O-Ring (N1.50X011) $1.00
20 x 1.5mm X 12.5mm (NBR) Buna-N 70 Duro Metric O-Ring (N1.50X012.5) $1.00
20 x 1.5mm X 13mm (NBR) Buna-N 70 Duro Metric O-Ring (N1.50X013) $1.20
10 x 3mm X 21mm (NBR) Buna-N 70 Duro Metric O-Ring (N3.00X021) $1.80
---------
Sub-Total: $9.00
USPS (First-Class™ Package Service): $7.01
Washington State Tax: $0.72
Total: $16.73
Regulator creep is not an external leak. The common result of regulator creep is that the velocity of the shot increases the longer you wait between shots. Air is slowly creeping from the main air storage tube past the regulator, because the regulator does not perfectly seal itself off from the main air tube between each shot. It's a difficult thing to fix, and is very common in this gun. Read the link that nervoustrigger posted and you will see that even the "fix" detailed there did not work for him. Somebody correct me if I'm wrong, but from what I've read, nobody has come up with a perfect fix (that works for all) in this gun, at least using the stock regulator. Some have mitigated the problem, but it's been a frustrating journey.
You can change the two small springs in the trigger mechanism and lighten the pull a lot. I went to a much lighter hammer spring and a slightly lighter sear spring along with polishing all moving surfaces and now have a pull as good as I could ask for in a pistol. Don't accept OK if you like to tinker-it can be excellent.
[/quot
Please let us know where to get replacement springs.e]
Most seem to be brass, which wear out where the ball detents are in the probe. Any stainless ones avaliable ? And what is the issue with the T. Robbs?
Knife
I think I'll do a target shooting video a little later today up in my attic with my PP700SA maybe shooting one of my daisy targets. It's about a ten yard stretch up there. Right now I'm waiting on a split pig ingot from Rotometals and a new watch band from Russia for my Vostok watch.
Duy, If anyone can figure out a reliable fix for the stock regulator creep, I'll bet you can. Mine creeps (along with my friend's identical gun) and is the only thing keeping this pistol from being perfect for me, other than designing it as a carbine from the ground up.
PP-700 in .22 is on its way from Spain. Looking forward to shooting/tinkering this pistol.
A couple of questions:
I have read it's a bit loud. Is hearing protection recommended?
Which .22 pellet has proven most accurate?
Lou
. . . after that first shot the string I shot (only about 25 shots) ran from 497 to 501 fps, with wait time varying in the string anywhere from about 10 seconds to 5 minutes.
My PP700SA arrived this morning from Canada Shooting Supply.....and it only took 13 days to arrive, ugh.
Unfortunately I am busy trying to pass a kidney stone, so I probably won't get to it for a day or two, sigh...
Here's to a quick passage!
Otony
Most seem to be brass, which wear out where the ball detents are in the probe. Any stainless ones avaliable ? And what is the issue with the T. Robbs?
Knife
LOL, late night posting. the mold is a decked NOE .224 mold decked to throw at 29 grs. and sized to .216 for the PP-700 barrel. One hole groups at 25 yards using an ADE Reflex sight.
Scorpion count ended at near 1,800 for the summer. Not 1,000. ;D ;) 8)
Man, I love this Gun!!!
Knife/Mike
Knife
LOL, late night posting. the mold is a decked NOE .224 mold decked to throw at 29 grs. and sized to .216 for the PP-700 barrel. One hole groups at 25 yards using an ADE Reflex sight.That sure is an incredible amount of scorpions! ;D
Scorpion count ended at near 1,800 for the summer. Not 1,000. ;D ;) 8)
Man, I love this Gun!!!
Knife/Mike
Knife
I was hoping I didn't have to ask this and could post only on the "technical" aspects of this gun, but I must ask about delivery time from the Spanish distributor. I ordered October 18th and the tracking shows last scan in Spain on October 24th. I get a "don't worry shipping is slow" from them. How long is reasonable? It's been almost three weeks.
LOL, late night posting. the mold is a decked NOE .224 mold decked to throw at 29 grs. and sized to .216 for the PP-700 barrel. One hole groups at 25 yards using an ADE Reflex sight.
Scorpion count ended at near 1,800 for the summer. Not 1,000. ;D ;) 8)
Man, I love this Gun!!!
Knife/Mike
Knife
what is the decked down pellet length? have you tried it without decking down?
Huma regulator on sale. Bought one for $90 incl S&HQuick question
Huma regulator on sale. Bought one for $90 incl S&HQuick question
When installing the Huma does the gauge on the pistol read fill pressure or reg presure?
ThanksHuma regulator on sale. Bought one for $90 incl S&HQuick question
When installing the Huma does the gauge on the pistol read fill pressure or reg presure?
Fill.
If your using a moderator barrel rotation will move the poi, drill and tap a set screw under the rear sight fixed it for me.
Breach block oring is the most likely one to go first.
I consider it the least maintenance gun I own.
Huma regulator on sale. Bought one for $90 incl S&H
... a touch of removable loctite or equivalent.
Huma regulator on sale. Bought one for $90 incl S&H
ON SALE?! Where? DO tell, please.
Thanks! ;)
You guys had me at "poor man's leshiy"
Thank you for some info...Sounds like a great plan, Tommi- keep us posted on what you end up with!
Few days ago I got my second pp700s-a. This time I bought it from Mundilar airguns from Portugal (good service!) This time power is totally different, this new one gives almost 25joules. First one 10joules. I noticed big difference about the size of the output hole in the transfer port. Its much more bigger than my 10joule version. The first one I bought from finnish webstore and they said afterwards that it's from swedish importer where they get these guns. So my 10joule gun is made for swedish markets with swedish airgun regulations. Because here in Finland does not have any power regulations for airguns I was bit disapointed....
So now when I noticed the power difference between these two I'm more than satisfied with the power of my new 25joule version and I first thought this time theres no really need to modificate... But my second thought says that now when I have two .22 PP's I think I must to do modifications much as possible... :)
Long story short, you'll have to make a piece to seal the gun when you remove the regulator. It is in the replies somewhere, but I don't have time to tell you which one at the moment. The easier way would be to crank the reg down and remove the white derlin washer I think? Maybe someone else will chime in on the second method, as I removed my regulator guts completely. That required making parts though.
I agree, it should be and most sure is designed to take full pressure at the valve (220bar), and probably with some safety margin to go with that also...I made a long tube long barrel one in .177 for my brother in law. He wanted a simple high shot count PCP. I went with a 12” tube and a 14” barrel. Built a round functioning shroud for it. The gun was horribly unbalanced with the flimsy little stock but he didn’t mind. Had it tuned for 800fps with 10gr pellets for an impressive amount of shots. Huma was set at 130b I think. It’s been a while.
It should just be interesting make some calculation on the threads holding the valve in the back if the pistol...
Is there ANY gains(power wise and/or efficiency wise) in longer barrel in this little pistol, has anyone made a quick guess how big the plenum is?
Any advice on setting valve spring tension? I had some debris in my valve that required disassembly to remove. I didn't think to take note of how far it was screwed in.
I chucked the valve core in my drill press and used a small file to rework the seating surface. Problem solved.A burnishing file REALLY works nice for something like that, just gotta keep the burnishing file as clean as possible to keep it working good, they give a super smooth surface.
Any advice on setting valve spring tension? I had some debris in my valve that required disassembly to remove. I didn't think to take note of how far it was screwed in.Set it 4mm deep.
Uh, kind of an odd question to ask, but I'm having a hard time finding the answer:
Between a .177 and .22, is the part pictured below the same? Is the Oring the same?
(https://i.imgur.com/b08bJ8i.jpg)
Also, what's the thread spec for that piece pictured?
Uh, kind of an odd question to ask, but I'm having a hard time finding the answer:8mmX1.0
Between a .177 and .22, is the part pictured below the same? Is the Oring the same?
(https://i.imgur.com/b08bJ8i.jpg)
Also, what's the thread spec for that piece pictured?
Okay cool- Many thanks!! I might not copy the thread- I may just make a slip on collar, and "glue" it in place with some loctite in the receiver. I'm going to be doing a caliber conversion, and the barrel will be thicker than a PP700 barrel, and I don't want to reduce the OD of the entire barrel. I'm not running a shroud.I have tried a few different approaches with barrels. Mainly out of laziness. Who wants to thread both ends of every barrel when you are building and testing a bunch of them. But just like firearms, its hard to beat a barrel that's threaded into the receiver. On top of that is the tension nut. I tried to eliminate it but my barrels shot better under tension. I had one combo that I built a round shroud that functioned for it but no tension nut. Just an air stripper. It was accurate. Good enough for most guys. When I scrapped the round shroud, threaded the barrel and put it under tension, the accuracy was crazy. If you have read this whole thread, you know I made my gun shorter. It is so accurate with Crow Magnums of all pellets that I don't think I have ever missed a starling out to and including 60yrds.
Here's a crazy thought, has anyone thought to (or has) increase the bore size through the receiver so the barrel can be thicker? Or is there just not enough room?
YEMX, I'm sure mine are Nitrile at 70 shore. I did try 80 but the close tolerance I had made closing the breech very difficult and ended up deforming the seal. 70 works fine for me.
I did it.
I finished them.
All 1910 posts.
Read them. Took notes. Wow....
Thanks to all who wrote this PP700 owner's manual!* 👍🏼 :)
*(Pelletjunkie's term)
Also:
Thank you, Andi, for the details and pic of your stock adaptor design. Great!
Matthias
Is t-rob still the only place to get a stainless fill probe? been looking about and haven't seen much.
Is T.R. Rob still the only place to get a stainless fill probe? been looking about and haven't seen much.
Hello MatthiasIs T.R. Rob still the only place to get a stainless fill probe? been looking about and haven't seen much.
T.R. Robb must have had some QC issues with the sizes, don't know more than what this thread reported.
But I have ordered from Kentmachining on Ebay thist past Nov.
If they don't seem to have them posted online, just email them and ask. They made some just for me. 😊
➔ Two quick connect and one sccrew-in, stainless steel.
Paid 12$ + 4$ shipping from the UK.
Fit PP700 and P15/Skyhawk well.
Matthias
Must be this one:Yes it is.!
https://www.ebay.com/usr/kentmachining (https://www.ebay.com/usr/kentmachining)
Must be this one:Yes it is.!
https://www.ebay.com/usr/kentmachining (https://www.ebay.com/usr/kentmachining)
Thank you Rick67
I don't know what's happening but this ws the 3rd time in ywo months when searching eBay by username has not worked for me
I sent Kent Machining a message through eBay in early February and he was out of the country on an extended holiday and would not be back for 6 months.Must be nice!!
Hi Guys,
Just thought I'd pipe up and mention I've got a big order of the stainless fill probes coming, should be here in a week and half or so.
They should ship pretty cheap if you don't mind small packet air, which isn't track able but decently fast. And for Canadians, I can just pop them in a padded envelope for $2.
These are the shorter ones that are made for the Stormrider, but they do the job fine on the PP700SA and I assume will work on the PP750 as well. They'll be selling around $10 I expect.
Regards,
Wes
Hi Guys,sounds like an awesome deal to me honestly.
Just thought I'd pipe up and mention I've got a big order of the stainless fill probes coming, should be here in a week and half or so.
They should ship pretty cheap if you don't mind small packet air, which isn't track able but decently fast. And for Canadians, I can just pop them in a padded envelope for $2.
These are the shorter ones that are made for the Stormrider, but they do the job fine on the PP700SA and I assume will work on the PP750 as well. They'll be selling around $10 I expect.
Regards,
Wes
Ok thanks Ed, will do!Hi Guys,
Just thought I'd pipe up and mention I've got a big order of the stainless fill probes coming, should be here in a week and half or so.
They should ship pretty cheap if you don't mind small packet air, which isn't track able but decently fast. And for Canadians, I can just pop them in a padded envelope for $2.
These are the shorter ones that are made for the Stormrider, but they do the job fine on the PP700SA and I assume will work on the PP750 as well. They'll be selling around $10 I expect.
Regards,
Wes
Put one aside for me when they arrive please Wes.
It can ship with the PP750 if OK with you
PM me if you would like payment up front.
Hope you are well
Ed
sounds like an awesome deal to me honestly.
not my gun..... Pulled this pic off of a Facebook group.
One guy's interpretation of the PP700.
(https://i.imgur.com/I3Q7IfW.jpg)
i guess i am starting my own ppp700 adventure too. installed a gauge, can ya guess what the other hole is for?
question DUY , did you open up the angled port from the front connection block to the valve , i think its .5 mm as stock ?? one of the other forum members drilled his out to 6mm , which too some courage i imagine.
question DUY , did you open up the angled port from the front connection block to the valve , i think its .5 mm as stock ?? one of the other forum members drilled his out to 6mm , which too some courage i imagine.
I can't picture the hole you are talking about, wish I could. Looking for a parts diagram at the moment.
... since that air is now readily available to the valve ( assuming the valve is also opened up at the front where the spring retainer cap is
... since that air is now readily available to the valve ( assuming the valve is also opened up at the front where the spring retainer cap is
I believe, in the BOLD and blue quote, you are saying the regulator has been defeated?
question DUY , did you open up the angled port from the front connection block to the valve , i think its .5 mm as stock ?? one of the other forum members drilled his out to 6mm , which too some courage i imagine.
That secondary gauge idea is a huge gain for the PP700 since everyone is basically guessing the reg pressure on these.Yes, agreed, a huge gain for the PP700.
That secondary gauge idea is a huge gain for the PP700 since everyone is basically guessing the reg pressure on these.Yes, agreed, a huge gain for the PP700.
Though not quite for "everyone" — since some like me have lost the Chinese regulator lottery so catastrophically that we went to the Dutch for a Huma bailout.... 😊
Matthias
and no , i wont be offfended if you dont want it (-'
fitted a 13ci. got some gap from barrel to bottle...that is all calculated in for a regular carbon bottle later on. Wow, lots of work and still not done. but its going somewhere m
Gerry,
here you go....
What you're looking for is the parts diagram -- attached below as PDF. Note, the PP700S-A is slightly different than the PP700W. ;)
MatthiasO-Rings for Artemis PP700S-AThe sizes in on the Artemis parts list are different than the sizes commonly used when buying o-rings in the US.
Artemis gives us the OUT-side diameter, and then the cross-section.
Sellers in the US give us the cross-section first, then the IN-side diameter.
In the table below you’ll find the o-ring sizes and part numbers taken from the PP700S-A parts diagram, and the numbers converted to US sizes for easier shopping. (No, I’m not perfect, so if you find a mistake, or have an addition, plz. correct me. Thanks! ;) )
USA Sizes vs. Artemis Sizes PP700S-A
Cross Section X Inside Diameter vs. Outside Diameter X Cross Section
Part No. CS x ID (USA) vs. CS X OD (Artemis)
n/a: 1.5mm x 4mm [two; for fill probe] 7mm x 1.5mm
27 1.5mm x 4mm 7mm x 1.5mm
34 1.5mm x 5mm 8mm x 1.5mm
36 1.5mm x 8mm 11mm x 1.5mm
8 1.5mm x 9mm 12mm x 1.5mm
13 1.5mm x 11mm 14mm x 1.5mm
28 1.5mm x 12.5mm 15.5mm x 1.5mm
38 3.1mm x 20.8mm 27mm x 3.1mm
I did not find this size at the O-Ring Store, but I found: 3.3mm x 22.4mm | and 3.5mm x 20mm
✘✘ Attachment: PP700S-A Parts Diagram
and
✘✘ Attachment: PP700W Parts Diagram
I did it.
I finished them.
All 1910 posts.
Read them. Took notes. Wow....
Thanks to all who wrote this PP700 owner's manual!* 👍🏼 :)
*(Pelletjunkie's term)
Where can I get the PP700 owners manual?
Many thanks.
Also:
Thank you, Andi, for the details and pic of your stock adaptor design. Great!
Matthias
I did it.
I finished them.
All 1910 posts.
Read them. Took notes. Wow....
Thanks to all who wrote this PP700 owner's manual!* 👍🏼 :)
*(Pelletjunkie's term)
Matthias
Where can I get the PP700 owners manual?
I did it.
I finished them.
All 1910 posts.
Read them. Took notes. Wow....
Thanks to all who wrote this PP700 owner's manual!* 👍🏼 :)
*(Pelletjunkie's term)
Matthias
Where can I get the PP700 owners manual?
Well, Matt... 😄 this thread with its 2000 posts IS the owner's manual...! 👍🏼
Matthias
Matt,
I'm going to regret this, because this is just a whole pile of links and info, that isn't organzed yet, just collected.....
But you asked for a digested version of the "Owner's Manual" —so, here it goes, warts, spelling mistakes, disorder and all:
Matthias 😄
More pictures:
Okay- I just want to be sure about something, with regard to the HuMa reg install:
I'm not comfortable making a groove in the threads w/a file. I'll do it if I HAVE to.
The HuMa instructions say to leave the o-ring off of the rear endcap, in addition to leaving a very small gap between the tube and end cap so that the reg can breathe. Who else has done this? Is it really okay to leave out the o-ring? I just want to make sure before attempting to fill it for the first time to do a leak test... TIA
Yes, the o rings on the reg will seal the tube just fine. ;)
Knife
Yes, the o rings on the reg will seal the tube just fine. ;)
Knife
Knife - Looks like this threat is dying a slow death :-(
The emphasis seems to have shifted to the 750.
Hope all is well.
Knife - Looks like this threat is dying a slow death :-(
Yes, the o rings on the reg will seal the tube just fine. ;)
Knife
Knife - Looks like this threat is dying a slow death :-(
The emphasis seems to have shifted to the 750.
Hope all is well.
Well, with almost 2000 replies and over 178,000 views, I'd say it has lived a long life for an air gun thread :D It is probably more a matter of almost everything has been said and covered. It will be viewed many more times down the road I'm sure, and someone will likely come up with some more info or questions too. I haven't seen anyone make more power out of that 750 than the 700. Given the simplicity of use and all around design, I think there will likely always be a place for the 700 too 8)
I fabricated a bolt ball assembly to make the cocking easier.
It just needs one of those pellet loading trays to make it fool proof.
$40 + shipping is a bit much.
I fabricated a bolt ball assembly to make the cocking easier.
It just needs one of those pellet loading trays to make it fool proof.
$40 + shipping is a bit much.
Hello Matt
Maybe I'm not looking at the photo properly, but the bolt ball assembly is not obvious to me.
When you have a chance, please post some more photos.
Thanks
Ed
Well, with almost 2000 replies and over 178,000 views, I'd say it has lived a long life for an air gun thread :D It is probably more a matter of almost everything has been said and covered. It will be viewed many more times down the road I'm sure, and someone will likely come up with some more info or questions too. I haven't seen anyone make more power out of that 750 than the 700. Given the simplicity of use and all around design, I think there will likely always be a place for the 700 too 8)
I fabricated a bolt ball assembly to make the cocking easier.
It just needs one of those pellet loading trays to make it fool proof.
$40 + shipping is a bit much.
Hello Matt
Maybe I'm not looking at the photo properly, but the bolt ball assembly is not obvious to me.
When you have a chance, please post some more photos.
Thanks
Ed
...and just like that, the thread came back to life :D
I fabricated a bolt ball assembly to make the cocking easier.
It just needs one of those pellet loading trays to make it fool proof.
$40 + shipping is a bit much.
Hello Matt
Maybe I'm not looking at the photo properly, but the bolt ball assembly is not obvious to me.
When you have a chance, please post some more photos.
Thanks
Ed
Ed - This is a much better pic of the bolt I made.
I cut off a piece of allen hex that fit the grub screw.
For the ball I used the ball off of a bolt assembly I had laying around for years.
I drilled a hole in the ball then slid it on the allen wrench. Did some polishing on ball and buff the allen.
Super Glued it, for now. Used it for around 40-50 shots. It's staying put.
If it stays I'll leave it. If not I'll use some stronger glue. ;D
Much easier to use that trap door now.
Ed - This is a much better pic of the bolt I made.
I cut off a piece of allen hex that fit the grub screw.
For the ball I used the ball off of a bolt assembly I had laying around for years.
I drilled a hole in the ball then slid it on the allen wrench. Did some polishing on ball and buff the allen.
Super Glued it, for now. Used it for around 40-50 shots. It's staying put.
If it stays I'll leave it. If not I'll use some stronger glue. ;D
Much easier to use that trap door now.
What a great idea, Matt!
Thanks for the clarification
Ed
Well, with almost 2000 replies and over 178,000 views, I'd say it has lived a long life for an air gun thread :D It is probably more a matter of almost everything has been said and covered. It will be viewed many more times down the road I'm sure, and someone will likely come up with some more info or questions too. I haven't seen anyone make more power out of that 750 than the 700. Given the simplicity of use and all around design, I think there will likely always be a place for the 700 too 8)
What was the power record string for modded PP700?
I have made 31.8FPE for 19 shots in .22 18.13gr with PP750... not like it's a contest or anything ;)
Here is chrono of today:
You just had to do that to me, didn't ya, LOL! I don't have the numbers, because the group was shut down, but there was a guy with a pp700 tuned to 30-35 fpe, and he had a 300cc bottle on it. Granted, I haven't seen that long of a string at that power from an un-bottled pp700 though. I feel I could get pretty close to that power with a .22, but the most I could get out of my .177 was around 25fpe I think. That was also before I had some heavier lead to sling. I must have missed your thread on that one, can you give us a link? I'd like to see what all you did! You know how I like power :D
You just had to do that to me, didn't ya, LOL! I don't have the numbers, because the group was shut down, but there was a guy with a pp700 tuned to 30-35 fpe, and he had a 300cc bottle on it. Granted, I haven't seen that long of a string at that power from an un-bottled pp700 though. I feel I could get pretty close to that power with a .22, but the most I could get out of my .177 was around 25fpe I think. That was also before I had some heavier lead to sling. I must have missed your thread on that one, can you give us a link? I'd like to see what all you did! You know how I like power :D
25 fpe from .177 in a pistol is very big, most I was able to make with pp750 in .177 was 20 FPE. Just hard to keep that little pellet in the 8" barrel long enough to pick up juice, much easier in .22... especially adding a 19" barrel... which completely destroyed the pistol/carbine feel. The .22 PP750 is much better with 11.5" barrel, power/efficiency boost in the same shroud length and no LDC adapter.
The builds:
https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=170095.msg155908683#msg155908683 (https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=170095.msg155908683#msg155908683)
Yes, the o rings on the reg will seal the tube just fine. ;)
Knife
Knife - Looks like this threat is dying a slow death :-(
The emphasis seems to have shifted to the 750.
Hope all is well.
thanks Guy! they put me on heavy doses of insulin. Man I hate needles!!! Ithink I will go out and shoot the 700 now. Been a long time since I posted pic's so here's an oldie. LOL!!!
I also added a pellet ramp to ease the loading so flip open the breech and slide in the .22 pellet.
I mounted a red dot sight on mine and one of Rocker1's CF hushers on the front quiet and accurate. At 25 yards about 2 inches of hold under it is dead nuts accurate and with the red dot quick rodent acquisition. I also added a pellet ramp to ease the loading so flip open the breech and slide in the .22 pellet yes single shot but it is accueate enough that I don't have to rush the follow up pellet loading.Is that pellet ramp DYI, or a bought item, Sfttailrdr46?
I also added a pellet ramp to ease the loading so flip open the breech and slide in the .22 pellet.
I'd love to obtain a pellet ramp — but the $35 at JSARS plus shipping — I just couldn't justify it. (I tried! Believe me, I really tried, I had it in my shopping cart at least on three different occasions!)
MonsterMax charged only $25 for it, but added 14 (fourteen!) dollars of shipping.
So, if any of you has a suggestion, or is willing to make a 3D add-on that I can glue onto the breech loading block, I'd be very interested to buy it. 😄
Matthias
Bought from a fellow member also a stock adapter both are machined aluminum and powder coated. I'll take a picture and post later todayI mounted a red dot sight on mine and one of Rocker1's CF hushers on the front quiet and accurate. At 25 yards about 2 inches of hold under it is dead nuts accurate and with the red dot quick rodent acquisition. I also added a pellet ramp to ease the loading so flip open the breech and slide in the .22 pellet yes single shot but it is accueate enough that I don't have to rush the follow up pellet loading.Is that pellet ramp DYI, or a bought item, Sfttailrdr46?
Would you be able to post a picture?
Thanks
Ed
How do you seat the pellet with that ramp? I wouldn't be able to even get my little finger in there...I can let you know once it has arrived
Denis,
Mine is a hunting rig too and especially great to use from my truck.
I shoot it EVERY DAY and frequently tether it to a Scuba tank. It's got a cheap Simmons 4x scope on it and that's perfect for hunting, plinking and target shooting at 17 yards. Single load is just fine except in the dark when ratting. I weld aluminum so I've had a A LOT of fun with making stocks for it using .5" al tubing. Total fun thing.
I have a Simmons 4X true pistol scope on mine, and it works quite well ;) I only use mine as a pistol, so the pistol scope is a must for me.Mine is actually a rifle scope but I have it shoved way back and it's the perfect combo. No magnification adjustments, just point and shoot. I actually shoot better with it than a Hawke Vantage
No sir, I haven't tried those holds. I am familiar with them, but just never used them. I usually do pretty well with traditional holds though. It is extremely rare that I shoot longer than 50 yards with a pistol, and often less than 30 yards.
No sir, I haven't tried those holds. I am familiar with them, but just never used them. I usually do pretty well with traditional holds though. It is extremely rare that I shoot longer than 50 yards with a pistol, and often less than 30 yards.
With pb's it is not unusual for me to shoot at 300-400 yards. With the pcp, 100+. So it helps a lot!
I won quite a bit of bucks at the Ft. Hood range years ago with a 1911 shooting a 30" plate at 400 meters. Everybody and his brother bet against me. I loaded 8 rounds and fund the range with the first. The bets were against any hits. I hit 7 out of 8 and each paid handsomely LOL!!! I won enough to buy a LOT of ammo that day.
Oddly, no one would bet against me with my hot 41 Mag. GRRRRR!!! 8)
Knife
I've been looking at these for a month now, I just ordered one in .22 and a stock for it under the Onyx name. $237.00 from Aceros, 15% off for black friday, ordered an adapter from DonnyFL too.
This thread encourage me to dust off my PP700 and go out and play. It still had 1000 psi in after sitting more than a year and I forgot now sweet, fun and accurate this little bugger is.
Now maybe I will install the Huma regulator that I purchased 1 1/2 years ago.
This thread encourage me to dust off my PP700 and go out and play. It still had 1000 psi in after sitting more than a year and I forgot now sweet, fun and accurate this little bugger is.
Now maybe I will install the Huma regulator that I purchased 1 1/2 years ago.
Yes, put that Huma in there, you'll love it!
Matt, that is one sweet looking carbine set up.
No sir, I haven't tried those holds. I am familiar with them, but just never used them. I usually do pretty well with traditional holds though. It is extremely rare that I shoot longer than 50 yards with a pistol, and often less than 30 yards.
With pb's it is not unusual for me to shoot at 300-400 yards. With the pcp, 100+. So it helps a lot!
I won quite a bit of bucks at the Ft. Hood range years ago with a 1911 shooting a 30" plate at 400 meters. Everybody and his brother bet against me. I loaded 8 rounds and fund the range with the first. The bets were against any hits. I hit 7 out of 8 and each paid handsomely LOL!!! I won enough to buy a LOT of ammo that day.
Oddly, no one would bet against me with my hot 41 Mag. GRRRRR!!! 8)
Knife
That's good stuff there! I'm not good enough for that kind of stuff, lol.
This thread encourage me to dust off my PP700 and go out and play. It still had 1000 psi in after sitting more than a year and I forgot now sweet, fun and accurate this little bugger is.
Now maybe I will install the Huma regulator that I purchased 1 1/2 years ago.
This thread encourage me to dust off my PP700 and go out and play. It still had 1000 psi in after sitting more than a year and I forgot now sweet, fun and accurate this little bugger is.
Now maybe I will install the Huma regulator that I purchased 1 1/2 years ago.
Yes, put that Huma in there, you'll love it!
I really like my Huma. Amazing how tight it keeps the spread between shots, ES.
The only thing I find is the nagging air-blast/leak at the 'Moveable Connector' as the parts manual calls it.
I call it the door/latch that you close after you load the pellet.
I fixed it with an oversize Oring but now it's back. I'll replace the Oring to see if that fixes it?
Think I'll name this pistol C.F.L./Constantly Fixing Leaks. Yep and that includes the Huma Reg. One of the Orings had a nagging ultra slow leak.
Fixed it with a larger OD Oring. So far that's doing well now.
Pressure Gage Oring was another one that needed replacing.
Just have to keep at them,Orings, until I replace them as they go.
I'm still enjoying the PP700 in it's carbine configuration. At 15 FPE it's all I need to
defend the bird feeder and shoot in basement at 15 yards.
Accuracy at 35 yards, all that's needed, I can't complain.
No sir, I haven't tried those holds. I am familiar with them, but just never used them. I usually do pretty well with traditional holds though. It is extremely rare that I shoot longer than 50 yards with a pistol, and often less than 30 yards.
With pb's it is not unusual for me to shoot at 300-400 yards. With the pcp, 100+. So it helps a lot!
I won quite a bit of bucks at the Ft. Hood range years ago with a 1911 shooting a 30" plate at 400 meters. Everybody and his brother bet against me. I loaded 8 rounds and fund the range with the first. The bets were against any hits. I hit 7 out of 8 and each paid handsomely LOL!!! I won enough to buy a LOT of ammo that day.
Oddly, no one would bet against me with my hot 41 Mag. GRRRRR!!! 8)
Knife
That's good stuff there! I'm not good enough for that kind of stuff, lol.
I kinda cheated. They assumed it was a .45 acp 1911. It was a custom 10mm. LOL! ;D [size=78%] [/size]
This thread encourage me to dust off my PP700 and go out and play. It still had 1000 psi in after sitting more than a year and I forgot now sweet, fun and accurate this little bugger is.LOL! Talk about Pratl the Procrastinator. ;D 8) [size=78%] [/size]
Now maybe I will install the Huma regulator that I purchased 1 1/2 years ago.
There use to be a saying on the TAG (Talon Airgun Forum). If it shoots well, treat it like a sore peter and don't touch it! ;DThat's funny and great advice. Mine is shooting fantastic and I am not gonna do a thing to it but fill and shoot.
Mike
I think I got a "Laser" PP 700s-a 8)
It outshots my FX Royale 400 in 4.5mm @10 yards inside, I have not tried longer ranges yet, but still that is spectacular.
I get groups of 1mm(0.04") CC @10 yards, thats impressive so far :D
JSB Exact Diabolo 8.44gr
I've got another load of these coming in April. Snowpeak says they are being discontinued :-[
I have some 16" barrels for them in 22 cal in stock, just waiting for the Carbon fiber shrouds and 1/2" 28 adapters and muzzle brakes to arrive. I'm hoping to get some 25 cal 16" barrels I have here converted to for this pistol as well. I have some PP750 long barrels getting machined as well, in 22 cal.
Mine got seized by Customs, found out today, got a letter saying it doesn't have import stamp or mark.
...I have some 16" barrels for them in 22 cal in stock, just waiting for the Carbon fiber shrouds and 1/2" 28 adapters and muzzle brakes to arrive....
If and when the regulator doesnt spike, i can hit 760fps with 33.95gr .25 caliber at 1800psi. sometimes peaked at 780fps.
I need to fix the regulator. about to put this one back on the rack and think what i wanna do with the regulator.
If and when the regulator doesnt spike, i can hit 760fps with 33.95gr .25 caliber at 1800psi. sometimes peaked at 780fps.
I need to fix the regulator. about to put this one back on the rack and think what i wanna do with the regulator.
Wow you put a lot of work into that. All it needs now is a carbine stock. I’m guessing that cylinder on the side is the plenum?
I have a huma reg that I don’t need. Bought it for a second pp700 that I got rid of. If you want it I’ll sell it to you for a good price
839fps with 33.95 .25 cal at 2100psi. tuned it down to 725fps at 1800psi.I realize you are going to hit your goal of 850fps with a 34 grain projectile.
I almost hit my targetted 850fps.
34grain nsa slugs going at 780fps at 1800psi @_@
i would think so. i dont have any lighter pellets to verify but based on how its pushing the 33.95 grains above 50fpe, it would be a piece of cake.
gotta work something out with the vendor soon.Mine got seized by Customs, found out today, got a letter saying it doesn't have import stamp or mark.
That BLOWS. I hope there is a solution that gets you a replacement very soon.
gotta work something out with the vendor soon.Mine got seized by Customs, found out today, got a letter saying it doesn't have import stamp or mark.
That BLOWS. I hope there is a solution that gets you a replacement very soon.
It'll be tensioned by the 1/2" adapter on the end tightening against the carbon fiber sleeve. Everything has been taking extra long. The carbon tubes got sent back by DHL for some reason and I had to reorder them....I have some 16" barrels for them in 22 cal in stock, just waiting for the Carbon fiber shrouds and 1/2" 28 adapters and muzzle brakes to arrive....
Will / are these .22cal 16" barrels with a carbon fiber shroud be a tensioned barrel system?
I made a proper shroud for my PP700SA that obviates the need for an LDC but I would like one in CF and with a longer barrel.
Well just got a message back from Aceros de Hispania ( the vendor) about my pistol, it's lost in Customs, they had seized it and will not release it, so they are issuing me a refund.
they tried very hard to get it to me, but it was a losing battle.
You can’t go wrong buying from Wes. I’ve done quite a bit of business with him and every order has gone very smoothly.+1, Ditto, Me Too
Well just got a message back from Aceros de Hispania ( the vendor) about my pistol, it's lost in Customs, they had seized it and will not release it, so they are issuing me a refund.Kevin I am glad you are getting a refund!!!
they tried very hard to get it to me, but it was a losing battle.
I have a problem with my Gen 1 Airmax Precision Pistol (PP700). My gun will not accept air from the fill probe as long as the reservoir is attached to the pistol. It was working fine one day and not working the next time I was going to shoot it. After I insert the fill probe and open the tank valve the fill probe is pushed back about 1/8” and air then leaks at the probe. The probe is working, the front tube assembly is working, and air is released into the tube when the tube is off the pistol. But when I reattach the tube assembly it will not accept air.
Any suggestions.
Thanks,
David Enoch
David,
the odd thing in your case is that it works when the airtube is not attached to the pistol.... 🤔 Weird.
Have you done anything to the gun between the last time it worked and the first time it did not work anymore?
🔶 I have a similar but slightly different case.
My gun* has the same air intake "valve" as the PP700S-A — the junky lil'o-ring around a screw....
And somehow I can't fill the gun:
The pressure builds in the airhose of my FX 4-stage handpump, and no soft nor violently hard pumping gets air into the tube....
I have had this problem off and on, and turning the fillprobe slighly, or re-inserting it, worked usually after several attempts. Not now...! 😣
Any advice appreciated!
Matthias
*The gun is a Skyhawk (≈P15).
One more question, is there a list of o-rings for the pistol?
David Enoch
Somehow I can't fill the gun:
The pressure builds in the airhose of my FX 4-stage handpump, and no soft nor violently hard pumping gets air into the tube....
I have had this problem off and on, and turning the fillprobe slighly, or re-inserting it, worked usually after several attempts. Not now...! 😣
Any advice appreciated!
Matthias
I'm late to the party, still reading my way through this thread and very much enjoying my 2 week old PP700S-A.That looks really good ! It compliments it well.
Maybe not much of a contribution but, this morning I found that the Buck Rail handqaurd for my Notos also fits the PP700 air cylinder.
I'm late to the party, still reading my way through this thread and very much enjoying my 2 week old PP700S-A.
Maybe not much of a contribution but, this morning I found that the Buck Rail handqaurd for my Notos also fits the PP700 air cylinder.
I'm late to the party, still reading my way through this thread and very much enjoying my 2 week old PP700S-A.That's great to know, Brian! And belated Welcome to the GTA!
Maybe not much of a contribution but, this morning I found that the Buck Rail handguard for my Notos also fits the PP700 air cylinder.
If you do find the grips, can you post it here? Or in the 3D gate? Have a PP700SA, got it this year from Krale. Have both barrels, think I got the last 0.177 barrel that Wes had.I'm late to the party, still reading my way through this thread and very much enjoying my 2 week old PP700S-A.That's great to know, Brian! And belated Welcome to the GTA!
Maybe not much of a contribution but, this morning I found that the Buck Rail handguard for my Notos also fits the PP700 air cylinder.
I'll be taking my PP700 apart soon (maybe today?) for some general service; Among the bad ideas I have is testing it with some NSA slugs- as Matthias points out (except mine is .177, not .22) :D While it's a laser with several pellets and "good enough" with more than a dozen more, I've started to really enjoy the crosswind-resistance even slower slugs maintain over pellets. However, my barrel is not properly indexed and the grip itself is showing some signs of degrading. IIRC, somebody here on the GTA has 3D-printed grips so I need to start digging.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/115613406561If you do find the grips, can you post it here? Or in the 3D gate? Have a PP700SA, got it this year from Krale. Have both barrels, think I got the last 0.177 barrel that Wes had.I'm late to the party, still reading my way through this thread and very much enjoying my 2 week old PP700S-A.That's great to know, Brian! And belated Welcome to the GTA!
Maybe not much of a contribution but, this morning I found that the Buck Rail handguard for my Notos also fits the PP700 air cylinder.
I'll be taking my PP700 apart soon (maybe today?) for some general service; Among the bad ideas I have is testing it with some NSA slugs- as Matthias points out (except mine is .177, not .22) :D While it's a laser with several pellets and "good enough" with more than a dozen more, I've started to really enjoy the crosswind-resistance even slower slugs maintain over pellets. However, my barrel is not properly indexed and the grip itself is showing some signs of degrading. IIRC, somebody here on the GTA has 3D-printed grips so I need to start digging.