PP700 adventure started(Artemis PP700s-a)

[SilentMatt]

I just saw the "not Travis" on your avatar, hahaha!  I imagine it was necessary though   Looks like you got that little guy shooting good.  I may have missed it, but why does it have a Crosman barrel on it?  Was your factory barrel bad, or did you want a longer barrel?  I have a 4x on mine, and it does make it hard to do good groups, even though the gun is certainly capable of it.

Very necessary(although I doubt many read it)! I first broke the air stripper in half while tensioning the barrel, so made a new one and then broke the barrel itself at the threads on the breech side.
The barrel is very thin at the thread valleys, like .025". I ended up boring out the breech to accept the thicker Crosman barrel and used set screws on the top to retain it rather than making a new nut.

[Rallyshark]

I just saw the "not Travis" on your avatar, hahaha!  I imagine it was necessary though   Looks like you got that little guy shooting good.  I may have missed it, but why does it have a Crosman barrel on it?  Was your factory barrel bad, or did you want a longer barrel?  I have a 4x on mine, and it does make it hard to do good groups, even though the gun is certainly capable of it.

Very necessary(although I doubt many read it)! I first broke the air stripper in half while tensioning the barrel, so made a new one and then broke the barrel itself at the threads on the breech side.
The barrel is very thin at the thread valleys, like .025". I ended up boring out the breech to accept the thicker Crosman barrel and used set screws on the top to retain it rather than making a new nut.

Gotcha!  Yours must be a .22?  The barrel is quite thin on those ones for sure. 

[SilentMatt]

Yep.

[YEMX]

Okay- I just want to be sure about something, with regard to the HuMa reg install:

I'm not comfortable making a groove in the threads w/a file.  I'll do it if I HAVE to. 

The HuMa instructions say to leave the o-ring off of the rear endcap, in addition to leaving a very small gap between the tube and end cap so that the reg can breathe.  Who else has done this?  Is it really okay to leave out the o-ring?  I just want to make sure before attempting to fill it for the first time to do a leak test...  TIA

[Rallyshark]

Okay- I just want to be sure about something, with regard to the HuMa reg install:

I'm not comfortable making a groove in the threads w/a file.  I'll do it if I HAVE to. 

The HuMa instructions say to leave the o-ring off of the rear endcap, in addition to leaving a very small gap between the tube and end cap so that the reg can breathe.  Who else has done this?  Is it really okay to leave out the o-ring?  I just want to make sure before attempting to fill it for the first time to do a leak test...  TIA

The groove in the threads will not hurt a thing in the world.  You can use a dremel or just a triangular file to do it.  I'm far more comfortable with a small groove in the threads than I am not tightening the end cap.  It is the same principle folks have been doing with Hatsan air cylinders for years It is perfectly okay to leave the o-ring out.  The reg seals against the end cap, so removing that o-ring is what allows it to vent to atmosphere(along with a loose end cap or groove in the threads).  If you don't remove it, the reg will not work properly.  I hope that makes ya feel a little better

[YEMX]

Indeed it does RallyShark, indeed it does!

[YEMX]

Oh, here's a few pics:





I know, the reservoir isn't fully threaded on...  These pics were taken before I received my answer about the o-ring being left out.  Thanks again!!

EDIT:  I've now pulled the end cap o-ring and I've backed off the reservoir a bit, as instructed.  Now for the leak-down test.  I've filled her to 3k, and we'll see how she's doing in the morning.  Crossing fingers there's no leaks...

[YEMX]

OOhh man, wicked bad leak...  I'll try to track it down in the morning.   

[Rallyshark]

OOhh man, wicked bad leak...  I'll try to track it down in the morning.   

Make sure you put a light film of silicone grease on the o-rings prior to re-assembly.  Let us know what you find.

[YEMX]

OOhh man, wicked bad leak...  I'll try to track it down in the morning.   

Make sure you put a light film of silicone grease on the o-rings prior to re-assembly.  Let us know what you find.

I replaced the factory o-rings w/o-rings from the o-ring store.  I also gave all o-rings a coat of diver's silicone grease before re-assembly.  I've filled (and watched air drain) the reservoir 2 more times just to make sure it's indeed leaking, and not just "first-fill seating" issues.  I've had that happen- first fill it leaks, subsequent fills it's fine, never to leak again.  Not this time...

Holy leaking air pistol Batman!!  I found the leak- between the silver reg housing and the rear plug.  So when the air drains out again, I'll depress the valve to ensure a full drain, and take the reservoir off again. 

Any tips?  I'm not sure what it could be- all the o-rings are new and have a good coat of grease.  I tightened down the reg screw, and all the belleville washers are facing the same way.  I re-installed the small screw with white disc as per instructions from you guys...  I'm just not sure why it would be leaking from that particular location...   

[nervoustrigger]

Did you add the O-ring described here?
https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=121844.msg1290844#msg1290844

If not, that's a prime candidate for leaking.  Originally, it is assembled with a lot of torque to seal against the white washer.  It's very hard to tighten it sufficiently to seal when reassembling.

[YEMX]

I tried putting an o-ring in there, but with the tool I have, I couldn't sufficiently tighten that spool down to get the rear reservoir plug to sit flush...  I'll try another o-ring size...  Thanks again!!

EDIT: (I thought I posted this already)  I found an o-ring that seemed the correct size.  I also broke down and Dremeled a vent for the HuMa.  Trying to set the gap between the reservoir and end cap was an exercise in frustration.  Anyhoo, it's all re-assembled, and I tested it again w/window cleaner...  So far, no leaks!!  We'll see what the gauge says in the morning.  Crossing fingers!!

[SilentMatt]

Finally had the chance to machine up a stock I designed a few months ago...

This is just the prototype and needs some refinement as well as grip panels made.

[barreira]

Very nice. Was it 3D print?

[SilentMatt]

Thanks. No, machined out of PVC.

[barreira]

Here's mine...

[SilentMatt]

Very nice!

[Rick67]

Finally had the chance to machine up a stock I designed a few months ago...

This is just the prototype and needs some refinement as well as grip panels made.

Looks fantastic!

[barreira]

Hi all,

Here's my 30 shot string in m/s:

1-223 -200bar
2-224
3-224
4-224
5-228
6-230
7-232
8-235
9-235
10-237 -160bar
11-240
12-240
13-240
14-241
15-241
16-241
17-240
18-239
19-238
20-237 -130bar
21-234
22-234
23-231
24-229
25-226
26-224
27-221
28-218
29-215
30-214 -100bar

What do you guys think about it?

[Rallyshark]

Finally had the chance to machine up a stock I designed a few months ago...

This is just the prototype and needs some refinement as well as grip panels made.

Very nice!  I like how rigid it is too! 

Here's mine...

Nice work on this as well.  I like the minimalist cheek rest, because it only has what is necessary.

Hi all,

Here's my 30 shot string in m/s:

1-223 -200bar
2-224
3-224
4-224
5-228
6-230
7-232
8-235
9-235
10-237 -160bar
11-240
12-240
13-240
14-241
15-241
16-241
17-240
18-239
19-238
20-237 -130bar
21-234
22-234
23-231
24-229
25-226
26-224
27-221
28-218
29-215
30-214 -100bar

What do you guys think about it?

It kinda looks like an unregulated shot curve to me.  Of course, if you're shooting around 25-30 yards and under, you wouldn't see much POI shift.  I'm sure it is a very usable tune for 95% of the folks out there It is a decent string, when you consider how much pressure range is covered, and how grumpy the factory "regulator" can be.