PP700 adventure started(Artemis PP700s-a)

[Wolverineshooter]

Today I decided to do some tuning and trigger adjustment. I disassembled the handle and trigger assembly. Polished the contact points in the trigger, and lubed with moly, made a 1/8 counterclockwise turn on the regulator adjuster(to increase power), 1 and half counterclockwise turn to loosen the trigger spring, and then put everything back.

Now, the trigger becomes so sensitive that a touch of trigger will get the gun to fire. Not sure what I did wrong, maybe the springs were not put exactly right?

[Wolverineshooter]

Well, I disassembled againand found the trigger screw bended. Straightened it and reassembled, works find now.

[Wayne52]

I really like the trigger on mine the way it is, I have used it quite a bit since I bought it though.   Basically the only thing I did with mine was a little bit of honing soon after I bought it on the friction parts.

[Wolverineshooter]

I really like the trigger on mine the way it is, I have used it quite a bit since I bought it though.   Basically the only thing I did with mine was a little bit of honing soon after I bought it on the friction parts.

My trigger is stiff, after polishing and lower hammer spring, now it is about right - similar to my P17.


Wayne, you changed the O-ring on the breech. Do you have to take the transfer block off? My transfer block blocks the O-ring slightly

[Sfttailrdr46]

If you are careful it can be inserted just use a soft cuticle stick to help it in also a light coat of silicone divers grease

[Wolverineshooter]

If you are careful it can be inserted just use a soft cuticle stick to help it in also a light coat of silicone divers grease

OK Ron I will try that. I was afraid damaging the ring.

[Bob Pratl]

Greg, if you remove about 1/16" from the right side hand grip it will allow you to swing the gate open a few degrees more to make the O-ring replacement a lot easier.

[Sfttailrdr46]

My original o-ring was dry and I managed to damage it in 20 shots or so and started to feel a puff of air every time I pulled the trigger  So you know the rest Ultimox #226 works well also

[Wolverineshooter]

Greg, if you remove about 1/16" from the right side hand grip it will allow you to swing the gate open a few degrees more to make the O-ring replacement a lot easier.

Thanks Bob, that I can do . I have removed the handle twice to work on the trigger so easy now.

[Wolverineshooter]

My original o-ring was dry and I managed to damage it in 20 shots or so and started to feel a puff of air every time I pulled the trigger  So you know the rest Ultimox #226 works well also

Both my breech and filler probe came with damaged O-rings. I have replaced the filler probe O-ring and I am now on the breech. I felt a strong puff of air each time and the accuracy has not been great. Hopefully after these changes the pistol will perform like many of you fanboys'

[Wolverineshooter]

Looking at the transfer block and thinking how air travelled, I notice there is no O-ring between the air hole at the bottom of the transfer block when meeting with the hole below. That does not make sense to me because I think that will cause air loss. Any thoughts on if this is an issue? If so can we fix it by glue a small O-ring there?

For the transfer port screw adjustment, I read one of you said that screw is too short, suggesting replacing with a 12mm one and use an rubber ring at the cap to seal the air. I am thinking using Teflon tape to seal the air there. Any experience on this fix?

[Sfttailrdr46]

Fan Boy, well maybe but in reality this little shooter is fun to play with. At 25 yards I can easily kill 12oz soda cans all day long. I think that this is a better pistol in .22 but you know what they say about opinions. 

[Wolverineshooter]

Fan Boy, well maybe but in reality this little shooter is fun to play with. At 25 yards I can easily kill 12oz soda cans all day long. I think that this is a better pistol in .22 but you know what they say about opinions. 

I choose.22 for hunting purpose as it gives a bit more power, less shots OK for me. Just hope it will shoot consistently so it can be a reliable hunting gun.

[Sfttailrdr46]

I haven't run a complete string but have shot at least 15 to 20 shots at 25 yards with the only poi being due to my shaky hands  The regulator seems to be fairly stable on the .22 version most of the complaints seem to be on the .177 version having regulator stability issues . The cure for that is the Purpose made Huma regulator which many have already installed.

[Wolverineshooter]

I haven't run a complete string but have shot at least 15 to 20 shots at 25 yards with the only poi being due to my shaky hands  The regulator seems to be fairly stable on the .22 version most of the complaints seem to be on the .177 version having regulator stability issues . The cure for that is the Purpose made Huma regulator which many have already installed.

Shaky hands definitely is part of the problem. Leaky air may have something to do with it too. If regulator is good then I should see improvements after the fixes I am doing. Hopefully that is the case

[nervoustrigger]

Regarding the transfer port restrictor screw, it's not that it's too short, it just doesn't thread down far enough to block a substantial portion of the air flow.  At least that's the way it is on my .177.  It has to be threaded down until within about 1 turn of being bottomed out before it has any effect on velocity.  However in .22 caliber, it would have more of an effect.  To change it, you'd need to tap the threads deeper.  Or you could get creative and take the grub screw and remove a little of the leading threads, creating a nose that can reach deeper.
 
Threre's really no need to be concerned about losing air past its threads.  It would be a problem if always pressurized but it's insignificant during the brief milliseconds the valve is open.  That said, you can apply a little medium (blue) threadlocker to fill the helix.  It doesn't take much.  Once cured, you can still make adjustments a number of times.  That is, as long as you feel some gummy resistance to movement, it's sufficiently filling that role...pun intended.

[Wolverineshooter]

Thanks Jason. How about the holes at the bottom of the transfer block? I can feel the air movement when shooting.

[nervoustrigger]

Sorry, I haven't experienced any blowby at that location.  I haven't even had the block off of mine so I'm not even familar with how the parts interact.  Hopefully someone else can comment.

[nervoustrigger]

About the factory regulator, I can't think of any fundamental reason it would work differently for .22 cal vs. .177 cal.  It just seems to be very nonlinear.  The bigger the difference between the setpoint and the cylinder pressure, the more variation there is.  So in other words, a higher setpoint will give better consistency.  Mine is behaving nicely after I burnished the valve seat and adjusted the setpoint to around 1500psi.  In .177 cal, that produces 13fpe without any changes to porting.  I had intended to tune it to 8 or 9fpe but when I backed down the setpoint, the results were not satisfactory so I just enjoy it at the higher power level.
 
Granted, if it were fitted with a shoulder stock, I would have different aspirations for it because I would want to stretch it out to longer distances.  For that, I suspect the factory reg would be inadequate.  But as it stands, it will put a variety of different pellets into a dime at 25 yards when rested and that exceeds my expectations for an air pistol.
 
BTW, this nonlinearity is a function of the forces acting to close the valve and those acting to open it.  That part's pretty obvious, right?  Well, the force acting to close the valve is simply the output pressure...ideally, that stays the same.  However the force acting to open it is a combination of the Belleville stack and the cylinder pressure.  So as the cylinder pressure changes, so does the force.  The way to minimize the effect is to make the valve aperture very small.  That way the cylinder pressure acts upon a very small area and only represents a small fraction of the Belleville force.  The competing issue is that a tiny aperture affects recovery rate and that's why makers of paintball regulators walk a fine line to balance the two.  But it's not really a concern for a single-shot pellet pistol like this so I suspect SPA could have done a better job here.  I kinda eyeballed the reg when I had it apart to see if there was an easy way to address it but it wasn't obvious.  If any of you smart fellas have an idea, I'd love to hear it.

[bandg]

Greg, the valve (silver cap behind the transfer block) has 2 o-rings-one on either side of the port in the transfer block.  These are designed to seal that area to prevent air loss there but the design has its issues.  The block rotates around the diameter of these o-rings when opened and closed.  On mine, most of the air leakage seemed to be coming from the o-ring area between the transfer block and the barrel.  A little baby powder ligthly applied to the area may help you seek where the air is coming from when fired.