3P 5S is 3 parralled and 5 of those in series((( ))) ((( ))) (((The original was 2P 5S(( )) (( )) ((So it would have the same travel but 50% greater spring rate so should permit about a 50% higher setpoint.
I fall off the reg around 100 bar, so that's where I stop shooting. It takes about ten shots after that and a lot of force to get the valve to dump when I'm emptying the cylinder. Didn't know there would be any danger there? Running the valve spring loose let me turn my hammer tension down quite a bit, which helps with the trigger pull and should also aid in lessening hammer bounce. I did it for efficiency and consistancy. That'll have to do until I build a balance valve for it.I still need to get some some shot strings with the valve spring at different tensions to see if it has an effect on efficiency. I'm also not sure if changing the shape on the forward face of the poppet changes the force of the pressure acting on it, or if the force remains the same for a given diameter regardless of the angle of the face.
thoughts on what to adjust to make this better? seems like others are getting more power and shots from theirs with 18gr pellets
So far mine has leaked in two places, and one of those was a result of me disassembling and reassembling. I wrote of it a few days ago in this thread but it's where the two halves of the regulator thread together. Apparently it's supposed to seal against the white plastic washer inside but it's hard to develop enough torque when reassembling. Fortunately it's easy to remedy by adding an O-ring as Bob described in this post https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=121844.msg1290844#msg1290844I would not be surprised if many of them have a slow leak in that location.
Quote from: sawtoothscream on August 19, 2017, 02:13:02 PMthoughts on what to adjust to make this better? seems like others are getting more power and shots from theirs with 18gr pelletsAny idea about where your reg and hammer preload adjustments are right now, also have you adjusted anything with the valve or transfer port restrictor? Might try leaving the grips off and slowing backing your hammer spring off while taking 2-3 shots over the crony, then as soon as it starts to drop a few fps, turn it back just enough to bring it back up, about 1/4 turn. Then run a full string again, just guessing but I'd say you have to much hammer[/quoteQuote from: Ozarkairgunner on August 19, 2017, 02:45:35 PMQuote from: sawtoothscream on August 19, 2017, 02:13:02 PMthoughts on what to adjust to make this better? seems like others are getting more power and shots from theirs with 18gr pelletsAny idea about where your reg and hammer preload adjustments are right now, also have you adjusted anything with the valve or transfer port restrictor? Might try leaving the grips off and slowing backing your hammer spring off while taking 2-3 shots over the crony, then as soon as it starts to drop a few fps, turn it back just enough to bring it back up, about 1/4 turn. Then run a full string again, just guessing but I'd say you have to much hammermaybe a half turn clockwise on the reg , tp is open all the way and i think maybe 2 turns in on the hammer but not 100%I took a string before this one and i think it maxed at 605, so i gave the hammer another full turn before i took the string above.
Quote from: sawtoothscream on August 19, 2017, 02:13:02 PMthoughts on what to adjust to make this better? seems like others are getting more power and shots from theirs with 18gr pelletsAny idea about where your reg and hammer preload adjustments are right now, also have you adjusted anything with the valve or transfer port restrictor? Might try leaving the grips off and slowing backing your hammer spring off while taking 2-3 shots over the crony, then as soon as it starts to drop a few fps, turn it back just enough to bring it back up, about 1/4 turn. Then run a full string again, just guessing but I'd say you have to much hammer
I used a -015 (Buna-N, 50 durometer), however there is a metric O-ring in the service kit that folks have used successfully. It measures M1.5 x 12.5.
I'm thinking about an adjustable rear sight. If I drive out the non adjustable rear sight what aftermarket sight will fit into the dovetail groove at the rear of the breech?
Thanks on the O-Ring size Jason. Good to have you around! I pretty much concluded I have a non-functioning regulator in this new pistol. I'm thinking it would probably be more consistent with my "regulator" removed. 1000 rounds later I still have 150 to 300 fps velocity variations over a string of 30 shots. I messed with the hammer spring tension and regulator adjustment a lot. Currently I have the regulator adjusted almost all the way in (clockwise); about 1 turn out from where it won't turn any more, thinking maybe the increased tension will help seal the regulator and eliminate the severe regulator creep. Now I have ever-increasing velocity throughout the string, starting at about 440 fps and topping out at about 750 fps. This is from 200 bar to 100 bar. Velocity consistently increases 5 or 10 fps with every shot. Waiting longer between shots does not change this behavior. When I increased the hammer spring tension, it started out at about 590fps and topped out at about 770 fps when it got close to 100 bar. I'm trying to understand the physics involved here. What is happening with this current adjustment?Will the air tube unscrew with hand pressure once there is no pressure in it? Do I need to remove the barrel shroud first? I assume I need to apply torque to the main body of the air tube, not to the end piece that contains the filler hole and gauge, right?
It sounds like yours is functioning with the reg so tight that is effectively bypassed. The easiest way to get at that stuff is to remove the barrel and shroud, so you can properly get a grip on the air cylinder. Most of the time, you can get them off by hand. But yes, after it is de-gassed, just unscrew the cylinder.
Mike, I agree with Donny, starting at ~400fps and rising to 700fps sounds like the regulator is being bypassed. Could be from having the adjustment set too tight or there might be a piece of debris trapped in the valve seat of the regulator (between the white plastic washer and the tapered screw).Yet one more possibility...some people found some really screwy Belleville arrangements when they took theirs apart for the first time so you may want to take care to inspect them when you take it apart. That way at least you'd know there was a good reason it wasn't functioning correctly.