PP700 adventure started(Artemis PP700s-a)

[WesBob]

He's quite the guy, was great to read his story!

[YEMX]

Has anyone thought about making a longer reservoir tube for these pistols? 

[Rallyshark]

Has anyone thought about making a longer reservoir tube for these pistols?

I'm sure some of the other spa parts from one of their guns would probably thread right on, if I were a guessing man.  I know there was a rifle version of this setup floating around somewhere too.  I've also see a couple of guys on the now dead FB group adapt a drop block and bottle to them.  Sadly I don't remember which parts they used. 

[Pelletjunkie]

I made my tube shorter. It’s a nice pistol now. If you make it any bigger it would be a seriously awkward pistol. If you are using it with the little folding stock, it might start to become an unbalanced mini rifle because that folding stock weighs nothing and the stress on that plastic grip might be too much.

[Harold999]

The allen bolt in the trigger house for the regulator, if you turn it lose (against the clock), will it stop at a certain moment or can you keep turning and is that dangerous with a pressurized cilinder?

[WesBob]

It only goes so far and remains in the threads. No real danger other than damaging the regulating parts if you don't shoot in between small adjustments to allow the pressure to lower.

[SuperCaffeineDude]

Okay, I just got done with the valve for the most part.  I tapped and plugged the three holes that don't line up with the transfer, and filled the gap with JB Weld.  I also opened up the remaining hole that lines up with the transfer.  I took a hair off the base of the valve to get the alignment I wanted while also bringing the transfer block a bit closer to the breach to provide a little better seal when closed.  I trimmed/cleaned up the excess JB Weld before it had hardened all the way so it would be easier, and that is the reason it appears to be an odd color.  It will be darker after it hardens.  This should help keep the pressure up and air waste down between the valve and the pellet.  Hopefully, I'll be able to test it tomorrow sometime after the JB Weld has fully hardened. 

Hi, after mimicking your work, could I ask; what did you use to plug the holes? There's quite a bit of depth to them (wasting air?), worried I'll end up JB welding the release pin, also what did you use to protrude the last hole?
Can I also ask do you ever find it misaligns with the breech hole, seems like that would be more of an issue as opposed to having 4 air ports feeding into 360 degree channel
Cheers!

[Pelletjunkie]

I tapped all of the holes and used grub screws. I tested before and after and I am sure Rallyshark will concur, it doesn’t make a significant difference. Plenty of guys are producing big power without plugging the holes but it was worth a shot when Rallyshark did it when the gun was first introduced. As far as the alignment goes, you turn the valve in until the unplugged hole is facing up. Hopefully you chose the right one because the valve should be tight or almost tight. Then you tighten the little grub screw that keeps the valve from rotating. The end.

[Backyard Shootr]

I did all the mods on my valve and wouldn't do it again. Mine took a lot of sanding on the base of the valve and on the breechblock to get the hole in the valve to align up with the block and for the block to be tight against the seal. 

[Rallyshark]

Okay, I just got done with the valve for the most part.  I tapped and plugged the three holes that don't line up with the transfer, and filled the gap with JB Weld.  I also opened up the remaining hole that lines up with the transfer.  I took a hair off the base of the valve to get the alignment I wanted while also bringing the transfer block a bit closer to the breach to provide a little better seal when closed.  I trimmed/cleaned up the excess JB Weld before it had hardened all the way so it would be easier, and that is the reason it appears to be an odd color.  It will be darker after it hardens.  This should help keep the pressure up and air waste down between the valve and the pellet.  Hopefully, I'll be able to test it tomorrow sometime after the JB Weld has fully hardened. 

Hi, after mimicking your work, could I ask; what did you use to plug the holes? There's quite a bit of depth to them (wasting air?), worried I'll end up JB welding the release pin, also what did you use to protrude the last hole?
Can I also ask do you ever find it misaligns with the breech hole, seems like that would be more of an issue as opposed to having 4 air ports feeding into 360 degree channel
Cheers!

As Frank said, I used grub screws.  It just tapped the 3 holes I wanted to plug for the smallest grub screws that I could tap it for.  After that I filled the groove/extra space with the JB Weld.  I did have to take a bit off the base of the valve to get the remaining hole to line up while providing a good breech seal.  I just marked the face of the valve so I knew where the holes were, then fitted the valve back in the gun(with the block/barrel/seal in place) to determine which hole to leave open.

I will also agree with Bob, I don't really recommend doing that mod, unless you're just trying to get everything out of the gun you can.  For 99% of the folks out there, it just isn't worth the trouble.  It can net you slightly better efficiency and power, if done correctly.  It is by no means a requirement when tuning one of these guns though   I got the idea to do it from all of the Hatsan valves I've done.  I was just trying to see how far I could take the gun, since no one had really gone crazy with one yet at the time.  Sure, I was able to ultimately get the power over 25fpe in .177(unregulated), but that isn't really the tune that works best for this gun.  I'm sure it could be useful for the right situations, but most of us end up tuning around 10-15fpe when all is said and done.  There just isn't any need to go through the trouble of modding the valve like that, if you're going to be tuning under 15fpe IMO. 

[Backyard Shootr]

And just for future reference a 4mm tap worked perfect for tapping the holes in my valve without having to drill. But the valve is stainless steel and have to go real easy when tapping. Mine is a .22 so I'm not sure if the .177 has different size holes in the valve.

[YEMX]

Has anyone thought about making a longer reservoir tube for these pistols?

I'm sure some of the other spa parts from one of their guns would probably thread right on, if I were a guessing man.

Good point- But which one?    Better question: would we be able to get that tube here?

If you make it any bigger it would be a seriously awkward pistol.

I was wanting to make it a dedicated carbine...  In .20 

I know there was a rifle version floating around- but I can't seem to find it on the web!  It's not for sale at Krale, so I assume that it either never made it to production, or isn't for sale anymore.  Either way, I'm not going to be able to get my hands on one. 

[SuperCaffeineDude]

Understood thank you all, mine is a .22 does seem 4mm would do the job, as you seem to advise against the work involved, I think I'll see how well it does with and without some rubber plugs.
Just waiting for my new o'rings and the chronograph, once I have everything I can start testing.

[SuperCaffeineDude]

Quick question, the valve nut, is there a consensus as to whether to keep it on the tighter or looser side?

[Pelletjunkie]

Through all of my testing, I run mine 4mm deep.

[Harold999]

Problem here. Got pressure in the cylinder but not at the hammer (i think i overtightened the valve nut inside the reg).
How can i degass the cilinder safely? 1/4 turn of the air cilinder to force a leak? (read the latter somewhere else but can't find any confirmation if this is safe)

[Bob Pratl]

Problem here. Got pressure in the cylinder but not at the hammer (i think i overtightened the valve nut inside the reg).
How can i degass the cilinder safely? 1/4 turn of the air cilinder to force a leak? (read the latter somewhere else but can't find any confirmation if this is safe)

What I do is slowly press the un-cocked hammer against the edge of my workbench until all of the air is gone, from the cylinder, while pointing the barrel to a safe area.

[Harold999]

Problem here. Got pressure in the cylinder but not at the hammer (i think i overtightened the valve nut inside the reg).
How can i degass the cilinder safely? 1/4 turn of the air cilinder to force a leak? (read the latter somewhere else but can't find any confirmation if this is safe)

What I do is slowly press the un-cocked hammer against the edge of my workbench until all of the air is gone, from the cylinder, while pointing the barrel to a safe area.

In my case there is no pressure behind the hammer in the breech, only in the cylinder.

[Harold999]

Problem here. Got pressure in the cylinder but not at the hammer (i think i overtightened the valve nut inside the reg).
How can i degass the cilinder safely? 1/4 turn of the air cilinder to force a leak? (read the latter somewhere else but can't find any confirmation if this is safe)

Tried a 1/4 turn of the air cylinder but the cylinder endcap turns also. And no leaking.

Another option could be slightly losening the pressure gauge with that special wrench that sits in the box.

[Rallyshark]

Problem here. Got pressure in the cylinder but not at the hammer (i think i overtightened the valve nut inside the reg).
How can i degass the cilinder safely? 1/4 turn of the air cilinder to force a leak? (read the latter somewhere else but can't find any confirmation if this is safe)

Tried a 1/4 turn of the air cylinder but the cylinder endcap turns also. And no leaking.

Another option could be slightly losening the pressure gauge with that special wrench that sits in the box.

Are you saying that no air comes out when you cock the hammer and shoot it?  If that is the case, you have the white derlin disc in backwards, or the screw that holds it is too tight, or both.  I've had to unscrew my cylinder once when I did that way back.  It's fine if the cylinder end cap is turning also.  Either way, it will start leaking at one end or the other,lol!  Just be VERY careful and slow until it starts to leak.