Quote from: Harold999 on May 27, 2019, 07:38:17 PMQuote from: Harold999 on May 27, 2019, 01:08:27 PMProblem here. Got pressure in the cylinder but not at the hammer (i think i overtightened the valve nut inside the reg).How can i degass the cilinder safely? 1/4 turn of the air cilinder to force a leak? (read the latter somewhere else but can't find any confirmation if this is safe)Tried a 1/4 turn of the air cylinder but the cylinder endcap turns also. And no leaking. Another option could be slightly losening the pressure gauge with that special wrench that sits in the box. Are you saying that no air comes out when you cock the hammer and shoot it? If that is the case, you have the white derlin disc in backwards, or the screw that holds it is too tight, or both. I've had to unscrew my cylinder once when I did that way back. It's fine if the cylinder end cap is turning also. Either way, it will start leaking at one end or the other,lol! Just be VERY careful and slow until it starts to leak.
Quote from: Harold999 on May 27, 2019, 01:08:27 PMProblem here. Got pressure in the cylinder but not at the hammer (i think i overtightened the valve nut inside the reg).How can i degass the cilinder safely? 1/4 turn of the air cilinder to force a leak? (read the latter somewhere else but can't find any confirmation if this is safe)Tried a 1/4 turn of the air cylinder but the cylinder endcap turns also. And no leaking. Another option could be slightly losening the pressure gauge with that special wrench that sits in the box.
Problem here. Got pressure in the cylinder but not at the hammer (i think i overtightened the valve nut inside the reg).How can i degass the cilinder safely? 1/4 turn of the air cilinder to force a leak? (read the latter somewhere else but can't find any confirmation if this is safe)
The thread i'm loosening is quite short. Did 2 full turns already and still no leaking.Not comfortable doing this.
Quote from: Harold999 on May 27, 2019, 08:49:30 PMThe thread i'm loosening is quite short. Did 2 full turns already and still no leaking.Not comfortable doing this.I hear ya on that one! I wouldn't feel comfortable, if that was where it was unscrewing either. You should probably go ahead and screw that back down,lol! I would try getting a strap wrench or something, then stick a phillips screw driver in the fill port of the end cap. Then, try to hold the cylinder and screw off the fill port end cap using the screwdriver in the fill port for leverage.
In that picture you posted about the threads, that threaded piece needs to come out of that black cap in order for you to assemble your reg properly.
Took half a turn of the gauge and it started hissing, went well.
So gun was performing very well, no leaks and my poundage easily got to 13.2 lbs with the Sniper Magnum (tamed it back down and stuck a stock on it).However I messed up something, i fired my tank till it was empty and so I think without the pressure it lost... something, there was a little sigh when it emptiedI had problems refilling it, so I took it apart and wiped some excess oil off on adjusted the tightness of the washers and checked the valve plug to make sure the plastic washer was still inplaceNow the air seems to be passing straight from reservoir to exiting the barrel , any ideas what might be too loose/tight? The reservoir valve (recently adjusted) or the firing valve (unadjusted) and what might have caused it?Side question; any recommendations on a compact shroud for this gun? (ideally one I can clean and reuse) At 12lbs it had a bark that might get me in trouble in my suburban surroundings
Quote from: SuperCaffeineDude on June 02, 2019, 10:10:11 AMSo gun was performing very well, no leaks and my poundage easily got to 13.2 lbs with the Sniper Magnum (tamed it back down and stuck a stock on it).However I messed up something, i fired my tank till it was empty and so I think without the pressure it lost... something, there was a little sigh when it emptiedI had problems refilling it, so I took it apart and wiped some excess oil off on adjusted the tightness of the washers and checked the valve plug to make sure the plastic washer was still inplaceNow the air seems to be passing straight from reservoir to exiting the barrel , any ideas what might be too loose/tight? The reservoir valve (recently adjusted) or the firing valve (unadjusted) and what might have caused it?Side question; any recommendations on a compact shroud for this gun? (ideally one I can clean and reuse) At 12lbs it had a bark that might get me in trouble in my suburban surroundingsIt sounds like a combination of too much hammer spring and not enough valve spring. In other words, the hammer is leaning on the valve and it isn't sealing when the gun is empty, because the valve is slightly cracked due to the hammer putting pressure on the valve pin. Never shoot one down to empty, unless you just want to torture yourself hand pumping. Try refilling with the gun cocked, so the hammer isn't leaning on the valve pin. You can open the transfer block (just for safety if you want), with it cocked. As far as noise level goes, a shroud isn't going to make a ton of difference. A short barrel making 12fpe can have a bark. The biggest difference in noise will be with a good LDC, AND tuning it a good bit under the knee will help a lot. When I say under the knee, I mean tuning it for around 50fps less than it is capable of at a given reg setting. The higher the reg setting, the faster the valve can close. You can also remove the valve and tighten down the valve spring adjustment some more too. The faster that valve closes, the quieter the gun will be Also make sure the breech is sealing well, so you aren't getting any noise from there. I hope that helps.
Clockwise to increase. The nut is cup-shaped and adds preload to the Belleville stack.Contrasting that against regulators which have a movable valve seat, in which case counterclockwise increases the setpoint by requiring the piston to travel further before reaching the seat.
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