Author Topic: PP700 adventure started(Artemis PP700s-a) (Read 277844 times))

screwwork · « **Reply #1140 on:** December 31, 2017, 01:16:38 AM »

Techie,

Ar stocks are like shoes for our feet, everyone likes something else. Here is a link to the a $30.00 ar stock..
https://www.cheaperthandirt.com/product/tacfire+ar-15+commercial+m4+style+six+position+stock+kit+tan+mar085-t.do?sortby=ourPicksAscend&page=2&refType=&from=fn&ecList=7&ecCategory=485321
https://www.cheaperthandirt.com/product/trinity-force-mil-spec-6-position-stock-kit-wtba02-812530025718.do?sortby=ourPicksAscend&refType=&from=fn&ecList=7&ecCategory=485321

LeE · « **Reply #1141 on:** December 31, 2017, 05:34:40 AM »

Quote from: Techie on December 31, 2017, 12:37:06 AM

Don, please let us know what you think of that stock adapter when you get it and how it all works together. He mentioned you can get an AR stock and tube for under 30 bucks on eBay or Amazon, but I searched and can not find anything near that cheap. Plus, I'm not sure what size tube I'd end up with, as apparently there are two different size tubes. I know nothing about AR stocks and tubes. A turnkey solution with stock would probably generate more sales for that adapter rather than trying to figure it all out ourselves, especially if it only added $30 to the cost.

I know this wasn't directed at me but I want to promptly help address your concerns.

Here you go: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tactical-Mil-Spec-6-Position-Collapsible-Butt-Stock-W-Stock-Tube-Recoil-Pad/302563638000?hash=item467232baf0:g:Nc8AAOSwA~VaMLBV

The reason that I do not include the other parts because I don't believe in a once size fits all approach. I want to give you guys all the freedom to choose what accessories best fits your needs. I am always happy to help find what you are looking for. You are correct about the sizes. One is called commercial and the other is called mil-spec. As long as the extension tube and the stock are both matching sizes, they will work together. Example: If the tube says it is mil spec and so does the buttstock, they will work together (but don't mix commercial with mil spec parts together). I hope this helps answers your questions. As always, feel free to drop me a message.

Happy New Years

Lee

Sfttailrdr46 · « **Reply #1142 on:** December 31, 2017, 09:51:11 AM »

Unfortunately when you are a tinkerer turn key is not always a solution. I got my AR stock from Pyramyd . I will post the end solution when I get all the pieces in my hands. I am also probably going to look for a red dot type scope with 4x magnification for 25 yard shooting since that is all I have in the backyard

YEMX · « **Reply #1143 on:** December 31, 2017, 10:30:31 AM »

Quote from: Techie on December 31, 2017, 12:37:06 AM

Don, please...Plus, I'm not sure what size tube I'd end up with, as apparently there are two different size tubes...

There's Commercial and Mil-Spec size tubes. All you have to do is match the butt stock to either of them, i.e. a Mil-spec butt stock or a Commercial butt stock. It's really not that hard.

A turn-key solution would be far more expensive, as now Vash545 would have to order inventory of both tubes and stocks, plus make his adapter. He would have to charge much more money to cover the extra parts. What if he doesn't sell the kind of stock you're looking for? Either you'll be upset that the doesn't sell "..." stock, and/or you're gonna buy a new stock. Again, more money. No, Vash545 has the right idea- Just sell the adapter, and leave it up to the consumer as to which stock/tube to buy.

Rallyshark · « **Reply #1144 on:** December 31, 2017, 02:35:53 PM »

Quote from: dang3r on December 30, 2017, 10:11:43 AM

or you can do this

I was wondering if you ever finished this build, nice work! The folks on the FB page are still waiting on this picture, haha

Have you got it tuned, and what kind of numbers are ya getting??

Rallyshark · « **Reply #1145 on:** December 31, 2017, 02:38:22 PM »

Quote from: MonsterMaxx on December 29, 2017, 12:18:27 PM

Well, not only did I find my leak in the .22, but I found a hone small enough to fit...in my toolbox of all places. It took a little jury rigging to make it work (a twist tie to hold one end and a little rubber cap to push the other apart), but work it did. Honed the breech and retested. No bubbling leaks found. I'll let it sit overnight and see how it does.

Craziest thing, the .177 is now holding air. Baffling.

Now on to tuning. When I took the .22 apart I unscrewed the valve poppet to look in there for damage. Sadly I didn't record how much it was screwed in. From fully in to the valve fully open I have to unscrew it 3.5 turns. David said something about 2 turns, but then the valve won't open all the way. Since I have no clue what the cause and effect is of this I'm not even sure what I'm doing, much less what to do. Hammer spring, regulator, valve spring... probably discussed in this thread, but at 57 pages, perhaps it's worth restating, if someone wouldn't mind.

I wish I could help you on the .22 valve, but mine is .177. I have mine all the way in, but I also changed out that valve spring with one I had floating around...

dang3r · « **Reply #1146 on:** December 31, 2017, 03:14:00 PM »

Donny I'm still waiting for some parts, it's not ready to shoot yet. As I promised to peeps on the fb page, as soon as I complete the build and it pass the leak test and reg tuning if needed I'll put it through chrony and will post results

Rallyshark · « **Reply #1147 on:** January 02, 2018, 10:00:27 PM »

Quote from: dang3r on December 31, 2017, 03:14:00 PM

Donny I'm still waiting for some parts, it's not ready to shoot yet. As I promised to peeps on the fb page, as soon as I complete the build and it pass the leak test and reg tuning if needed I'll put it through chrony and will post results

Can't wait to see the results man

R0B · « **Reply #1148 on:** January 07, 2018, 07:20:58 PM »

Greetings everyone.

I'm new to the forum and have just bought a 700SA. I like to tinker, and encouraged by my reading on here, decided to strip, re-lube and replace the 'o' rings on my pistol before really using it. I have got it stripped down to the action body with the regulator still attached (cylinder emptied and unscrewed) and I cannot for the life of me remove the black threaded section that screws (?) onto the silver reg unit. The gun was totally empty before I started. Before I get impatient and damage something, am i approaching it wrong, or could it be reg freeze that has allowed some pressure to remain in the reg and lock it tight. If so how do I get round it please.
Whilst I'm asking does the reg adjuster screw need a special shaped hex key to adjust in situ please, as non of mine seem to fit.

Thanks

Rob

nervoustrigger · « **Reply #1149 on:** January 07, 2018, 08:24:16 PM »

Quote from: R0B on January 07, 2018, 07:20:58 PM

I have got it stripped down to the action body with the regulator still attached (cylinder emptied and unscrewed) and I cannot for the life of me remove the black threaded section that screws (?) onto the silver reg unit. The gun was totally empty before I started.

I don't recall the colors of the parts but if you're referring to separating part 30 from part 26, you need a spanner wrench or something similar to poke into the holes of part 30 to twist it free. You can improvise by clamping a couple of suitably sized hex wrenches in a bench vise.

Mine was torqued like grim death when I first disassembled it, and that's because it has to form an airtight seal against the internal plastic disc. When reassembling, add an O-ring inside...there's one that fits included in the spares. A picture can be found in this thread.

If that's not the parts you're referring to, you will be refunded in full for the cost of this technical support

Quote from: R0B on January 07, 2018, 07:20:58 PM

Whilst I'm asking does the reg adjuster screw need a special shaped hex key to adjust in situ please, as non of mine seem to fit.

An M4 hex wrench fits it.

nervoustrigger · « **Reply #1150 on:** January 07, 2018, 08:29:01 PM »

Oops, I just realized you're probably referring to where the regulator body (part 26) fits into the receiver (part 20). Not sure why that would be stuck other than the fact the factory O-rings swell. If it were still under pressure, it would have pushed out as you removed the 4 screws.

R0B · « **Reply #1151 on:** January 07, 2018, 08:46:36 PM »

Thanks for the reply. It was the option 2 reply that I was looking at.......however you've piqued my interest...........what does adding the 'o' ring do please?.

I've managed to unscrew the black part from the reg body............had to use some heavy duty rubber gloves to get purchase.

I noticed that the large air reservoir 'o' rings are green, do I need to look for green ones when I order replacements...........likewise the brown ones?.

Thanks

Rob

nervoustrigger · « **Reply #1152 on:** January 07, 2018, 08:57:06 PM »

The O-ring inside the regulator keeps it from leaking. It's hard to develop enough torque to get it to seal against the hard plastic when reassembling. The O-ring circumvents this problem.

Regarding O-ring material, use Buna-N (70 durometer) which is one of the most inexpensive and commonly available types. You don't need anything exotic for sealing air in a PCP.

R0B · « **Reply #1153 on:** January 07, 2018, 09:13:22 PM »

Many thanks

Rob

nervoustrigger · « **Reply #1154 on:** January 07, 2018, 09:34:09 PM »

No problem! I went looking for the regulator O-ring earlier in the thread. You definitely want to add it when you reassemble...

R0B · « **Reply #1155 on:** January 12, 2018, 02:43:23 PM »

Thanks for that. I'm thinking of going down the Huma regulator route. If you add the 'o' ring does it allow you to remove the factory regulator wholly, or do you still have to part remove it as per the Huma instructions?

Rob

BSJ · « **Reply #1156 on:** January 12, 2018, 03:01:24 PM »

The Huma instructions are out of date.

Leave the valve stem in place, and the white disc. Turn the washers all the same way and crank the adjusting screw good and tight. This bridges the OEM reg.

If you remove the stem and disc you will get major leaking between the silver part of the OEM reg. and the end cap on the tube. See page 45 on this thread.

MonsterMaxx · « **Reply #1157 on:** January 14, 2018, 09:12:19 AM »

Went to the field with both pistols.
The .22 did quite well. No leaks, but dumping a lot of air. Not many shots before refilling. Flinging a 14gr at 600fps. Gotta work on it. OleTomCat even adjusted the trigger and now it's sweet too.
The .177 was nearly flawless. So quiet, laser accurate, sips on air, sweet trigger, over 800fps, if it weren't for the slow leak it'd be perfect.

Need another LDC from David and do some adjusting to the valve. Then a Huma reg too as the spread is pretty darn big.

Frigide · « **Reply #1158 on:** January 17, 2018, 06:30:27 AM »

I'm searching for a silencer for my PP700S-A. I find the Silencer Artemis PP700S-A / M16 from Krale and this is in my neighborhood. Is this one any good or are there beter solution's for max 75 euro!

Thiel · « **Reply #1159 on:** January 17, 2018, 07:25:42 AM »

Im using the Weihrauch Silencer (hard to find a better one) and a adapter to 1/2" UNF (from T R Robb Airgun Specialist)

The original Silencer from my SPA M10 is &^^& but i cant speak for this one on the krale website..

im sure you can give it a try in or outside the krale store ?! would be the best solution. you have to decide if its quit enogh or not ?!

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PP700 adventure started(Artemis PP700s-a)

Author Topic: PP700 adventure started(Artemis PP700s-a) (Read 277844 times))