PP700 adventure started(Artemis PP700s-a)

[MonsterMaxx]

Nope.  Couldn't get the retainer to let go.  We've shot the heck out of it now, works great.

[bandg]

Shouldn't need to remove the barrel in Robin's method noted above.  You are simply trying to get a set screw to contact the breech barrel bushing to prevent it from spinning.  Obviously important to drill short of the barrel itself but depth of contact on the bushing should not be critical.  Seems most who have used set screws drilled from the side of the receiver vs. under the sight and also seems I recall that they just drilled enough to allow the set screw to contact a flat on the barrel bushing.  I went a very different route and made a delrin plug that would screw on to the breech end of the barrel and was tight enough in the frame opening to prevent spinning.  I also used that delrin plug to allow fitting of a much thicker o-ring at the breech face which dramatically reduced felt leakage from the breech when firing.

[MonsterMaxx]

Should I get another one of David's LDC (like I have on the .177) for the .22 or try something different?

[YEMX]

Should I get another one of David's LDC (like I have on the .177) for the .22 or try something different?

You could, just to try something different.  But as I understand it,   David's stuff can't be beat in the Quality vs. Price category. 

Donny at www.donnyfl.com  does offer a PP700 LDC mount and does make quality LDC's...  If you're looking for another brand to try.

[Sfttailrdr46]

Should I get another one of David's LDC (like I have on the .177) for the .22 or try something different?

Davids works quite well on mine definitely backyard friendly with his LDC. Get the carbon fiber version it is ultra light and doesn't upset the balance

[MonsterMaxx]

Should I get another one of David's LDC (like I have on the .177) for the .22 or try something different?

Davids works quite well on mine definitely backyard friendly with his LDC. Get the carbon fiber version it is ultra light and doesn't upset the balance

Already have the CF version on the PP700 .177

Maybe I'll just get another, the donnyfl is pretty expensive to put on a $200 gun

[MonsterMaxx]

Welp, just grabbed the new .22 to see how much air was in it - ZERO.  Guess these guns just leak air. 

[SilentMatt]

Check the fill valve o-ring. Mine eventually started getting very slow to fill then started leaking. Never had any other leaks from it though.

[sawtoothscream]

anyone making the steel fill probes now?   

[Wayne52]

Not sure if it was this thread or not but I bought a stainless one from England I think, can't remember exactly where I bought it, it's been a while.



I got mine from TRRob https://www.trrobb.com/SMK_Artemis_Pre-Charge_target_pistol_Stainless_Steel_Filler_Probe/p1449438_17414808.aspx

[Techie]

I really want a stock for this pistol, to turn it into a carbine.  I would also like this stock to be light and quickly removable.  I didn't want to spend the money on an aluminum solution I saw on this forum that requires you to also buy an AR stock and buffer tube.  That combination would cost as much as the gun.  So... I had this crazy idea that actually works really well for me, and can be attached or totally removed in a few seconds.

I had an adjustable monopod that attaches to a sling swivel stud just like the bipods I use on most of my rifles.  I bought this monopod really cheap on sale from Natchez.  It was around 10 or 12 bucks.  Not too many people want a stud-mounted monopod when a bipod weighs about the same and typically costs about the same.  That's probably why Natchez was selling it so cheap.  The only reason I bought it years ago was because it was so cheap, even though I had no use for it at the time. 

Anyway, I figured if I could put a sling swivel stud on the bottom of the pistol's grip, I could attach this thing.  The existing plastic cap does not have enough meat to hold a stud, so I fashioned one out of a small piece of hard maple.  I also had some 2-part epoxy putty, so I made one out of that too.  Actually, I think an even easier way to do this is to wrap this epoxy putty around the existing plastic end cap to beef it up, then drill your hole for the stud.  I used a stud with a nut on it (like typically used on a rifle forearm), not one with wood screw threads like typically used on the butt stock end. 

The attached pictures tell the story.  The end of the monopod sits in the perfect spot on my shoulder, out of dumb luck.  I rest my chin on my right hand that is wrapped around the pistol grip.  I have a small rifle scope with 3 or 4 inches of eye relief on this gun, not a pistol scope.  As a bonus, you can use the monopod as an adjustable-length rest simply by flipping it down.

This is an idea that worked out much better than I thought it would.  I was especially concerned about where the end of the monopod would touch my shoulder.  Turns out it's in the perfect position, and shouldering the gun feels natural and comfortable.

[LeE]

I really want a stock for this pistol, to turn it into a carbine.  I would also like this stock to be light and quickly removable.  I didn't want to spend the money on an aluminum solution I saw on this forum that requires you to also buy an AR stock and buffer tube.  That combination would cost as much as the gun.  So... I had this crazy idea that actually works really well for me, and can be attached or totally removed in a few seconds.

I had an adjustable monopod that attaches to a sling swivel stud just like the bipods I use on most of my rifles.  I bought this monopod really cheap on sale from Natchez.  It was around 10 or 12 bucks.  Not too many people want a stud-mounted monopod when a bipod weighs about the same and typically costs about the same.  That's probably why Natchez was selling it so cheap.  The only reason I bought it years ago was because it was so cheap, even though I had no use for it at the time. 

Anyway, I figured if I could put a sling swivel stud on the bottom of the pistol's grip, I could attach this thing.  The existing plastic cap does not have enough meat to hold a stud, so I fashioned one out of a small piece of hard maple.  I also had some 2-part epoxy putty, so I made one out of that too.  Actually, I think an even easier way to do this is to wrap this epoxy putty around the existing plastic end cap to beef it up, then drill your hole for the stud.  I used a stud with a nut on it (like typically used on a rifle forearm), not one with wood screw threads like typically used on the butt stock end. 

The attached pictures tell the story.  The end of the monopod sits in the perfect spot on my shoulder, out of dumb luck.  I rest my chin on my right hand that is wrapped around the pistol grip.  I have a small rifle scope with 3 or 4 inches of eye relief on this gun, not a pistol scope.  As a bonus, you can use the monopod as an adjustable-length rest simply by flipping it down.

This is an idea that worked out much better than I thought it would.  I was especially concerned about where the end of the monopod would touch my shoulder.  Turns out it's in the perfect position, and shouldering the gun feels natural and comfortable.

Interesting idea with the sling stud. If there was a sling mount on the front, you could have the how thing sling supported.
You can buy an ar stock and tube for under $30 on amazon or ebay. The whole adapter with the stock and tube is less than half the cost of a new PP700.

[Techie]

Can anyone please tell me the proper name for nuts of the type shown in the attached picture?  This is the barrel shroud nut on the PP700S-A and there is a similar one holding the swinging breech door and valve, but I want to know the generic name for nuts of this type.  I'd like to purchase a tool to remove these types of nuts but I don't even know what a tool like this is called.  When I search on "pin wrench" I only see ones with 4mm pins for removing wheels on grinders.  I know 90-degree snap-ring pliers can work (if they are strong enough), or I can make a tool using a piece of steel and drill bits.  Still, I'd like to see what other kinds of tools are out there for these nuts, hopefully a stronger universal one with different diameter pins.

Thanks!

[Sfttailrdr46]

Can anyone please tell me the proper name for nuts of the type shown in the attached picture?  This is the barrel shroud nut on the PP700S-A and there is a similar one holding the swinging breech door and valve, but I want to know the generic name for nuts of this type.  I'd like to purchase a tool to remove these types of nuts but I don't even know what a tool like this is called.  When I search on "pin wrench" I only see ones with 4mm pins for removing wheels on grinders.  I know 90-degree snap-ring pliers can work (if they are strong enough), or I can make a tool using a piece of steel and drill bits.  Still, I'd like to see what other kinds of tools are out there for these nuts, hopefully a stronger universal one with different diameter pins.

Thanks!

This looks like what is needed  https://www.googleadservices.com/pagead/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwico_LeyKPYAhUatcAKHfZyAiUYABAZGgJpbQ&ohost=www.google.com&cid=CAESEeD2omg6P1M2shjS3-Q4hUSk&sig=AOD64_06XUmiyMwXMEX826Qa3VF-3D-FrQ&ctype=5&q=&ved=0ahUKEwiYtOreyKPYAhVDKyYKHXNYB8sQ9aACCFA&adurl=
or perhaps this
Cal Van 752 - Variable Pin Spanner Wrench

[CraigH]

The tool is called a pin spanner.   I believe this is the correct size (2mm).   Measure with drill bits and check my math.

[Techie]

Thanks guys.  Now I finally know what it is called!  A pin spanner.

It looks like the Cal Van 752 does not adjust down small enough, and the smallest pins it comes with are 3.5mm.  Minimum span is 1.25 inches, while the holes on the barrel nut are about 0.4 inches apart. 

The Baader-Planetarium wrench looks like it could work.  My only concern is if it will close down small enough.  It very well may not.  The thickness of the arms where the pins are mounted may prevent the pins from coming together that close.  I don't have a 2mm drill bit but a 5/64 inch drill bit tightly fits the holes in the barrel nut, and that is 1.98mm so I think we can safely assume the holes are 2mm. 

I may end up making one using a 5/64 inch drill bit and a piece of steel.  At least I'll know the name of what I'm making! 

[Techie]

I just read of someone making an  adjustable pin spanner wrench out of an adjustable Crescent wrench by putting pins in both sides of the wrench jaws.  Genius, although it will be awful hard to drill into the jaws of a crescent wrench.  My next project!  Good thing I'm going to sacrifice a 5/64" drill bit, because it won't be very sharp after drilling these holes.

[bandg]

I initially removed the barrel retainer nut (on pretty tight with some type of thread locker on it if I recall correctly) using a thin leather strip wrapped around it and a pair of pliers.  Works well if you are careful to avoid scratching the nut or barrel end.  After initial removal it has been much easier to get it off for later disassembly (I did clean the threads well and left them dry on reassembly).  You might also check on a pair of snap ring pliers.  I have a set with interchangeable 90 degree jaws which has worked well for the later tightening and removals.

[Horatio]

I just read of someone making an  adjustable pin spanner wrench out of an adjustable Crescent wrench by putting pins in both sides of the wrench jaws.  Genius, although it will be awful hard to drill into the jaws of a crescent wrench.  My next project!  Good thing I'm going to sacrifice a 5/64" drill bit, because it won't be very sharp after drilling these holes.

No doubt. That chrome vanadium be some tough steel!

Harbor freight has an adjustable pin spanner wrench for different size arbor nuts on angle grinders, might be worth a shot.

[BSJ]

Lee

"With the adapter and stock mounted, you can set the sight alignment by loosening the outside screw and move the stock up or down until you find the position that suites you and then by tightening the screw again to hold it in place"

Do you mean the stock pivots on this screw to adjust for sight alignment?