PP700 adventure started(Artemis PP700s-a)

[Tims229]

Kid, you could try putting some silicone grease on the o rings. I'm not a fan of fill probes for that reason alone.  I'll be looking to convert to foster fitting as soon as possible.

[shultz]

Kid, you could try putting some silicone grease on the o rings. I'm not a fan of fill probes for that reason alone.  I'll be looking to convert to foster fitting as soon as possible.

May I ask how you plan to do this? I'd rather have a foster as well. Only way I see this happening is a new fill/gauge block...

[Airgun junkie]

Kid, you could try putting some silicone grease on the o rings. I'm not a fan of fill probes for that reason alone.  I'll be looking to convert to foster fitting as soon as possible.

That is what I did, makes plugging it in and pulling it out soooo much easier. I was worried about the brass shavingings getting into the fill port as well or tearing a o-ring

[Tims229]

I can do without a gauge on it, I have one on my filling devices anyways. Probably just put foster on the end of the tube.

[shultz]

I can do without a gauge on it, I have one on my filling devices anyways. Probably just put foster on the end of the tube.

Ah, didn't think of doing it that way. Here's link to a special tool for removing the gauge. I'm sure someone on here could make this...

http://www.trrobb.com/SMK_Artemis_PP700S_Pre_Charge_target_pistol_Pressure_gauge_removal_tool/p1449438_16404062.aspx

[Wayne52]

I'm not that crazy about them making the fill probe from soft brass, good 316 stainless would be much more durable.

[Rocker1]

 You guys please be patient I am over whelmed with orders for the adapters and ldcs, never in the past couple of years have I not been able to ship next day but I cant now. I assure you I will take care of you. David

[mobilemail]

You guys please be patient I am over whelmed with orders for the adapters and ldcs, never in the past couple of years have I not been able to ship next day but I cant now. I assure you I will take care of you. David

You're good, just stay busy. We can talk about you while you're gone. 

[Kid Shelleen]

Snow Peak seems to make reasonably well built guns but like other Chinese guns, they seem to scrimp on the Orings.  At any rate, I got the leaky probe at least temporary fixed with silicone grease (thanks Tim).  Now that I've shot about 100 rounds through it, the leak from the breech block has gotten a lot worse and my POI has dropped over a half inch (at 10 meters) and the group has opened up some.  David said you can adjust the "face of the valve" to take up the clearance to the breech seal (after degassing) by loosening a small set screw.  Looking at the diagram, it's hard to see where the parts line up but I'm guessing that the face of the valve that David is referring to is the silver one that sits in the breech block.  Is the set screw also in the breech block?  The diagram I have doesn't line parts up very well, I don't see the set screw and the referenced parts numbers are all in Chinese.  I'm a little reluctant to take it apart until I know what I'm supposed to adjust.  Thanks for the help.  Shelleen

[shultz]

Kid,

The set screw is on the right, outer side of the breech in line with the breech block. It's small, M3 size(1.5mm allen), and likely flush with the side of the breech. I think it's part 42 on the diagram, it's so fuzzy when magnified I'm not sure.

All this set screw does is lock the air valve adjustment in place. To adjust the breech block seal, DEGAS. You'll probably want to remove the hammer for easier access to the valve face depending on what tool you use. When I used large snap ring pliers I had to remove the hammer. With the Park 2 pin wrench I have now, I can access 2 of the 4 holes on the valve face easier so hammer removal is not necessary.

Anyway, using what ever tool you have that will work, and that small set screw removed, turn the valve CW to tighten up the clearance between the valve face/breech block and breech. You have to kinda fiddle with it, to tight and the breech block is hard to open/close. To lose, well you know what the result is here

Good luck!

[Kid Shelleen]

Thanks John,  That's what I needed to know.  I saw what looked like a small grub screw (#42) on the diagram but couldn't tell what it attached to.  For some reason I thought the grub screw attached to the breech block instead of the breech.  I'm glad I asked because I probably wouldn't have known which way to turn the valve once I got to it.  Since I have to degas and take it apart, I think I'll take the opportunity to clean up the contact points on the trigger group.  Mine came very gritty with several places it was dragging.  I'm going to see if I can get a friend of mine to translate the diagram.  That might help in future work.  Shelleen

[shultz]

Thanks John,  That's what I needed to know.  I saw what looked like a small grub screw (#42) on the diagram but couldn't tell what it attached to.  For some reason I thought the grub screw attached to the breech block instead of the breech.  I'm glad I asked because I probably wouldn't have known which way to turn the valve once I got to it.  Since I have to degas and take it apart, I think I'll take the opportunity to clean up the contact points on the trigger group.  Mine came very gritty with several places it was dragging.  I'm going to see if I can get a friend of mine to translate the diagram.  That might help in future work.  Shelleen

Welcome.

I should have added this. On my MKII, I ran out of adjustment on the valve and still had a leak. Tried a new breech seal, nope.

So, I had some .015 shim stock. I made a small shim from this and put it in between the breech plug and the face it seats on in side the breech housing. PIA to make that THIN,round shim!!!! it slips over the barrel and just covers the entire breech plug diameter, it's only 1.5-2MM wide. This shims the plug and breech seal out to the breech block.

This shim got me to a slight puff of air, it's not enough to blow off tissue paper, just slightly lift it. Good nuff.

[Airgun junkie]

Mounted up the bushnell red/green dot  I think the dot is 3 moa. The green really worked nicely today while sighting in I was shooting groups I could cover with a dime at 28yrds
I have put the hurt to the cow bird population. Best one was at 37 yrds using the top rail of the deck for a rest while kneeling in a chair .  The more I shoot it the more proficient I get!

[Kid Shelleen]

John,  Thanks for that second bit of information.  I ordered a Park 2 pin wrench from Amazon last night but got impatient this morning and made my own from a piece of coathanger wire.  Took me 5 minutes and worked fine for this job (didn't even have to remove the hammer).  I loosened the grub screw you mentioned and turned the valve COUNTER CLOCKWISE but that seem to make the breech block looser.  I turned it CLOCKWISE until it bottomed out against the breech block.  The breech block was still loose but seemed a little tighter then when I turned it COUNTER CLOCKWISE.  I tightened the grub screw, filled with air and was still getting a good size leak from between the breech and breech block.  Are you sure it's supposed to be turned COUNTER CLOCKWISE? 

When I turned it CLOCKWISE it went in and bottomed out against the rear of the breech block like this.  Did I turn it the wrong way?



Here's the coathanger pin wrench I made:

[Wayne52]

You guys please be patient I am over whelmed with orders for the adapters and ldcs, never in the past couple of years have I not been able to ship next day but I cant now. I assure you I will take care of you. David

David you make some quality stuff, I'm sure everyone understands your predicament (especially with the bunch of guns shipped from Mrodair), I'm sure most of the guys will be accustom to patience after ordering from Mrodair.  I personally am very happy with the adaptor and LDC I got from you, you were right about this gun, it's very addictive indeed and a heap of fun

[shultz]

John,  Thanks for that second bit of information.  I ordered a Park 2 pin wrench from Amazon last night but got impatient this morning and made my own from a piece of coathanger wire.  Took me 5 minutes and worked fine for this job (didn't even have to remove the hammer).  I loosened the grub screw you mentioned and turned the valve COUNTER CLOCKWISE but that seem to make the breech block looser.  I turned it CLOCKWISE until it bottomed out against the breech block.  The breech block was still loose but seemed a little tighter then when I turned it COUNTER CLOCKWISE.  I tightened the grub screw, filled with air and was still getting a good size leak from between the breech and breech block.  Are you sure it's supposed to be turned COUNTER CLOCKWISE? 

When I turned it CLOCKWISE it went in and bottomed out against the rear of the breech block like this.  Did I turn it the wrong way?



Here's the coathanger pin wrench I made:

Kid,

I mention CW in my post, this is CLOCKWISE. Yes the valve should tighten when turned CLOCKWISE and loosen when turned COUNTER CLOCKWISE or CCW.

coat hanger wrench is a good idea! The park pin wrench works very well on the valve. It does not fit the barrel nut or regulator, the holes are to small...

[bandg]

For the barrel nut, in the past for this type thing I've taken two steel drift pins that fit in the holes (nails can work), place them in the holes, and then clamp the ends sticking out in vice grips.  This will often work for this type nut or fitting to tighten or remove.  For a more permanent wrench I've drilled holes with the needed separation in a thin bar of aluminum and pressed drift pins through the holes.  Usually works pretty well.  The clothes hanger idea is good as well.

[Kid Shelleen]

Thanks John,  I must have had a "Senior Moment" (seems like they've been more like "Senior Days" lately).  You wrote CW but my brain register CCW.  They say "With old age comes wisdom".... well in my case, old age came all by itself.      I like the mod. you did to correct the problem with the valve bottoming out before the breech block was tight enough.  I'm going to have to do the same thing with mine. You made a small washer (shim) from some .015" (or was that mm) metal and made it about 1.5 to 2mm in diameter (slightly smaller then the diameter of the breech plug?).  You then placed this shim over the end of the reduced end of the barrel and slipped the breech plug (is that part #5 in the diagram?) back over the top of it.  Is that correct?  The shim pushes the breech plug further out the back of the breech so the washer seals tighter against the breech block?  I can see how making a small shim like that would be a pain.

Thanks for this information.  If you and I are having this issue then there may be others that are having the same problem.  Those that aren't as knowledgeable about working on airguns (like myself) will find this information very useful I'm sure.

If I've understood correctly the shim (red circle on diagram) is place over the breech end of the barrel as shown below and gets sandwiched between the barrel and #5 (breech plug?).

[shultz]

Thanks John,  I must have had a "Senior Moment" (seems like they've been more like "Senior Days" lately).  You wrote CW but my brain register CCW.  They say "With old age comes wisdom".... well in my case, old age came all by itself.      I like the mod. you did to correct the problem with the valve bottoming out before the breech block was tight enough.  I'm going to have to do the same thing with mine. You made a small washer (shim) from some .015" (or was that mm) metal and made it about 1.5 to 2mm in diameter (slightly smaller then the diameter of the breech plug?).  You then placed this shim over the end of the reduced end of the barrel and slipped the breech plug (is that part #5 in the diagram?) back over the top of it.  Is that correct?  The shim pushes the breech plug further out the back of the breech so the washer seals tighter against the breech block?  I can see how making a small shim like that would be a pain.

Thanks for this information.  If you and I are having this issue then there may be others that are having the same problem.  Those that aren't as knowledgeable about working on airguns (like myself) will find this information very useful I'm sure.

If I've understood correctly the shim (red circle on diagram) is place over the breech end of the barrel as shown below and gets sandwiched between the barrel and #5 (breech plug?).

I have them myself, more frequently with each passing year...

The shim I made fits the face of part 5. I didn't measure the diameter of the plug or barrel. I used hollow punches to make the shim, just eyeballed the punch that fit each diameter best. What I meant by saying 1.5-2mm wide is the width of the shim itself, not the inner or outer diameter. The shim is THIN, it took me several tries to get a good one.

[bandg]

Very interesting-thanks for this information as I have just begun shooting mine and do notice some breech leakage.  How difficult would it be to increase the groove diameter for a slightly larger breech o-ring?