PP700 adventure started(Artemis PP700s-a)

[gendoc]

is there a shoulder stock available for these critters ??
i got a line on one of the green gripped ones for cheap LNIB....
would like a SS for it and maybe an LDC.......hey Rocker !!!

[TleVta]

I used my high end CAD software, a.k.a. microsoft paint, lol!

Nailed it. Thank you.

[Bob Pratl]

Donny, what size hole are you planning to drill through the peek plug?

There will be no hole in the PEEK plug.  That is meant to be short enough that air can escape through vent holes that will be drilled between the 2 o-rings that seal the spigot in the receiver.  If you click on the picture, it will be larger and you will be able to see the cross drilled holes in the my "diagram".

Donny, thanks for the explanation, I forgot about the hole between the o-ring seals. It looks like a good way to disable  the old regulator. I am waiting delivery of the Huma Regulator so now I have time to prep for it's install.

[BSJ]

Huma has offered to make a smaller OD one to fit, but you bring up a good point about the unmachined ID of the tube. I can see, by eye, that the step is different heights as it goes around. And the tube has longitudinal grooves too. Not good.

I had considered lapping the grooves out, but now that I see it's not round, that probably wouldn't work.

The cap stops .285" short of full in. Huma wants a .02-04" gap left after install. The end cap has .4" of unthreaded section. The tip of the OEM reg. is .6" from the end of the cap. Looks like cutting the cap us the easiest solution.

Break out the hacksaw!

[Rallyshark]

Donny, what size hole are you planning to drill through the peek plug?

There will be no hole in the PEEK plug.  That is meant to be short enough that air can escape through vent holes that will be drilled between the 2 o-rings that seal the spigot in the receiver.  If you click on the picture, it will be larger and you will be able to see the cross drilled holes in the my "diagram".

Donny, thanks for the explanation, I forgot about the hole between the o-ring seals. It looks like a good way to disable  the old regulator. I am waiting delivery of the Huma Regulator so now I have time to prep for it's install.

I haven't tested my "design" yet, so proceed with caution.  Of course Scott (Motorhead) got it to work, so we know it can be done

Huma has offered to make a smaller OD one to fit, but you bring up a good point about the unmachined ID of the tube. I can see, by eye, that the step is different heights as it goes around. And the tube has longitudinal grooves too. Not good.

I had considered lapping the grooves out, but now that I see it's not round, that probably wouldn't work.

The cap stops .285" short of full in. Huma wants a .02-04" gap left after install. The end cap has .4" of unthreaded section. The tip of the OEM reg. is .6" from the end of the cap. Looks like cutting the cap us the easiest solution.

Break out the hacksaw!

You can get past leaving the gap after install, if you put a small groove in the threads and small notch in the the air tube with a little triangle file.  I've never been a fan of the "not screwing things together" method of venting a reg myself.  It just don't feel right to me, lol.

[BSJ]

What's the O-ring on the rear face of the reg. do? Is it supposed to seal on the face of the end cap?

[shultz]

What's the O-ring on the rear face of the reg. do? Is it supposed to seal on the face of the end cap?

I don't have this reg, assuming its like other similar huma's, that o ring must seal on the face of the end cap. The atmosphere vent is between the front O ring and the rear, venting thru the threads of the end cap. Think about where the air goes if that rear seal doesn't seal

[Bob Pratl]

You can get past leaving the gap after install, if you put a small groove in the threads and small notch in the the air tube with a little triangle file.  I've never been a fan of the "not screwing things together" method of venting a reg myself.  It just don't feel right to me, lol.

I agree that a vent groove perpendicular to the cap threads is a better approach so that you can tighten the cap.

[BSJ]

I was afraid of that. Cutting the cap would require a good finish on the end. No hacksawing...

[shultz]

I was afraid of that. Cutting the cap would require a good finish on the end. No hacksawing...

I've seen some amazing work done with simple hand tools. could it be done with a hacksaw and files, I think so.

Could I do it with a hacksaw and files? Not likely...I'm fairly certain, I'd have a tiny leak no matter how hard I tried to get it square...

[BSJ]

Something for those of you with Regs. on the way to you.

The machined surface on the ID of my tube only extends 1.6"/40mm from the end of the tube. It needs to be about 2.4"/60mm.

I've ordered a lapping hone to smooth the unmachined surface of the tube. After I get the drawing grooves out I'm going to send the dimensions to Huma so that they can make a replacement reg. that will fit.

If we can't get it to seal on the honed surface, I guess I'll have to get the cap shortened on a lathe.

[TleVta]

Reg. got here yesterday. Measured my air tube . It's got the same step 40mm down in the I.D. as well. Drat. Should I contact Huma?

[Rallyshark]

Reg. got here yesterday. Measured my air tube . It's got the same step 40mm down in the I.D. as well. Drat. Should I contact Huma?

I would contact Huma.  This isn't a good sign for the rest of us with a regulator in route   I wonder if that step is different in the 700W vs the 700S-A.  On the bright side, I was able to get my gun to seal with the regulator parts removed.  I'll try and post some pictures tomorrow.

[TleVta]

Yeah, I'm not crazy about paying return shipping. And I don't want to touch that tube's I.D. at all. Don't have the facilities to do so.

[Wayne52]

I think SPA probably makes changes on more than just PP700 models after their initial release. The PR900W is a good example of that.

[Bob Pratl]

Reg. got here yesterday. Measured my air tube . It's got the same step 40mm down in the I.D. as well. Drat. Should I contact Huma?

I would contact Huma.  This isn't a good sign for the rest of us with a regulator in route   I wonder if that step is different in the 700W vs the 700S-A.  On the bright side, I was able to get my gun to seal with the regulator parts removed.  I'll try and post some pictures tomorrow.

Donny, that's good news that it is sealed and I just saw your write-up on FB. I should be getting my Reg this week so now I can prepare the air tube. I'm hoping that we can just machine the end cap and cut a groove in the threads for venting. This would not be a problem as I have two lathes and a mill.

[BSJ]

I ordered a hone off Amazon.  Should be here tomorrow. Can't post a link  Lisle 10500 Brake Cylinder Hone (Cost $13.39)

Hopefully it'll not give me any trouble. Some of the drawing marks will catch a fingernail. Not super deep, but they will have to be removed.

I just mic'ed the ID of the unmachined surface. All three readings came out to 1.053". Appears to be round, with the machined surface just being a little off center.

[Bob Pratl]

I ordered a hone off Amazon.  Should be here tomorrow. Can't post a link  Lisle 10500 Brake Cylinder Hone (Cost $13.39)
Hopefully it'll not give me any trouble. Some of the drawing marks will catch a fingernail. Not super deep, but they will have to be removed.
I just mic'ed the ID of the unmachined surface. All three readings came out to 1.053". Appears to be round, with the machined surface just being a little off center.

If the difference is only .002" then it should hone to 1.055" without any problems since it is round.

[BSJ]

Good point. Hopefully I'll be able to remove that much material...

The reg. is 1.055 so I'll have to go a bit more. I ordered an extra set of stones.

Anyone hone aluminum before? Wondering what fluid I should use. Oil or water. Hopefully the anodizing isn't too hard.

Still a bit worried about corrosion on the exposed aluminum. But Huma says it should be OK, coated with silicon grease.

[TleVta]

I've got a 3-bladed brake hone, but no lathe.