Tips on how to improve this? Backed off the hammer a little from the last one.
Quote from: sawtoothscream on August 27, 2017, 06:04:36 PMTips on how to improve this? Backed off the hammer a little from the last one.
Donny I'm still replacing them photos in different threads where photobucket bucket screwed things up for everyone!
Quote from: sawtoothscream on August 27, 2017, 06:05:54 PMQuote from: sawtoothscream on August 27, 2017, 06:04:36 PMTips on how to improve this? Backed off the hammer a little from the last one. Other than what has already been stated, I don't have any better ideas to improve the string. On the bright side, you shouldn't be able to notice any real POI difference at the ranges you'll likely be shooting at
Hey guys, look what was brought to my attention on the facebook page!!! I don't remember who posted it, but it should certainly solve the problems some of you are having with shot consistency I'm tempted myself. It is adjustable from 70-150 bar! https://www.huma-air.com/Artemis-PP700-tuning-pressure-regulator
I've just tested a different approach to the breech sealing issue that also provides better barrel tightening and can be done without a lathe (although a lathe would provide a superior final result) if you have a drill press, a set of drill bits, and a dremel with some basic cutting tools-Go to Lowes/Home Depot and get a nylon 1/2" spacer with a .250 hole through it's length. I got several at 1" but I believe 1/2" length is also available. You also need an 8 mm 1.0 pitch tap and a bolt of the same size with several nuts to go on the bolt. Also needed is a 3mm x 6mm o-ring.Drill the hole in the center of the nylon spacer larger until it is just smaller than the tap diameter (I did this by hand and don't recall the exact sizes of bits that I used but start with the first size that won't pass through the .250 hole and increase the size until you can get the tap started). Tap the inner hole to the 8/1.0 thread (this is the threading on the barrel itself). Cut the head off of the bolt. Then you can screw the nylon piece onto the bolt using a couple of the nuts to set depth on the bolt and chuck the bolt into a drill press. Then while spinning the bolt in the drill press use a dremel and a sanding drum to begin turning down the outer diameter of the nylon piece until you get a tight fit into the barrel bushing hole (it measures .473 if I recall correctly). I used a coarse sanding drum until I got it close then started with a fine file to smooth the outer diameter and I tried to have a little "taper" with the inner end of the nylon piece slightly narrower than the outer end. It will take some time to shape this nylon piece to fit the diameter of the opening in the frame and it must be done slowly and carefully because you want a snug fit.At this point the nylon piece will screw onto the breech end of the barrel and stop at it's shoulder. You need to continue to lightly sand the nylon piece until it will just tap into place in the frame with resistance while it is screwed onto the barrel.Once you can get the nylon piece fully into the breech hole you will need to mark it at the face of pistol breech, remove it from the hole (may need to tap it out from barrel muzzle end using soft wood or leather on your barrel muzzle end) and then cut it back to a depth that will allow the 3 x 6 o-ring to be pressed over the end of the barrel and into the hole. That 3 x 6 o-ring will be a snug fit over the barrel end and in the frame hole and will require a bit of pressure to get it into position. Try to keep the end of the nylon piece as "square" to it's long axis as possible as the o-ring needs to be "square" to the frame to seal well. Keep facing back the nylon piece until you get the o-ring seated to a depth you can work with.I had also just completed the valve tapping/sealing/JBWeld mod as previously done by Rallyshark so my fitting had to be VERY accurate to allow the valve to tighten to the EXACT position for the valve port to be exactly aligned with the breech block port while getting the desired pressure on the o-ring and this took a lot of hand fitting time but it turned out great. If your valve is stock then you can set the pressure on the breech o-ring using that valve tightening mechanism and it will take much less time to fit in that case.All of this will obviously be much more accurate if done in a lathe (and may never be needed for lower power setups and if you have no breech leakage). But I did it by hand using the tools noted which I had in my shop and it worked out great but it did take several hours of hand fitting to get it just right. I had previously eliminated breech leakage with a spacer between the valve head and the rotating breech block but I was concerned about wear on that breech block face (aluminum) sliding across the shim I had made so I decided to try this method. The result is no breech leakage with a much thicker o-ring at that location (may last longer?) and I can fully tighten the barrel. And if it all fails it is fully reversible by simply reinstalling the factory bushing and thin o-ring but as of now it is shooting great after about 50 shots so it seems that it may function fine long term.The next time I have the pistol disassembled I will get accurate measurements of the piece that I made if anyone wants to try this but I had spent so much time fitting it that I didn't think to measure it before the final installation. As noted above, the length of the piece is not critical if you have a stock valve as pressure on the o-ring can easily be adjusted by a slight turn on the valve itself but this is not possible with the modified valve.
If I wanted to by-pass or "bridge" the regulator, how would I go about doing so? Set the washers a certain way, crank the setting screw or what?
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