Quote from: tracker1955 on April 25, 2020, 03:07:09 PMThe things I looked for when picking an oil for my unit were these requirements, Synthetic not petroleum, very high flash point to prevent detonation under compression, a viscosity that would lube well especially on the conrod, but not too thick or thin to where it would travel too much or too little. I also prefer an oil that is nearly clear as its easier to see through the oil window and also tell when it's getting dirty and needs to be changed. I can't tell you it's the best but it's working fine for me since my last teardown.This actually has exactly the same flash point as royal purple
The things I looked for when picking an oil for my unit were these requirements, Synthetic not petroleum, very high flash point to prevent detonation under compression, a viscosity that would lube well especially on the conrod, but not too thick or thin to where it would travel too much or too little. I also prefer an oil that is nearly clear as its easier to see through the oil window and also tell when it's getting dirty and needs to be changed. I can't tell you it's the best but it's working fine for me since my last teardown.
I give up. At least Dan and Cooter paid attention. LOLWhat is the old saying, "You can lead a horse to water, but you can't make him drink". Apparently, very true! Just to beat my head against the wall one more time. Most of the oils here are for lower pressure compressors. There has been and is an entire industry built around HP compressors. How can any one not understand this. they are universes apart. Would you put a shop spare portable air tank for airing your tires to work as a 4500 psi vessel? Same logic here people! Some one ask, How do you know what to use. PAY ATTENTION!!! Hello!!! Use a product made for the high stresses of a HP compressor. I don't know what else to say. Knife
Before my 2nd stage piston broke I was running my compressor as much as 20 minutes at a time and was using the full synthetic Husky oil from Home Depot. I'm not sure that the oil had anything to do with the failure, and there were no signs of detonation, the parts actually looked pretty clean, no real carbon build up like pictures I've seen on YT. After the repair, I did a little more research as we all have and decided to use the oil I listed. I'm also not running my system for more than 5 minutes at a time for topping off my 45min scba tank. I've been letting it cool between runs with the water pump on and the extra battery-powered Fan blowing over the cylinder. One other change I've made is doing more direct fills from the compressor to the rifle when I'm home instead of using the convenience of the tank. The Royal Purple may have the same flashpoint but the oil I'm using is clear so easier to see the sight window fill level. I don't use ice for cooling but the water container on my shelving unit holds around 7 gallons, has water wetter in it and my temperature hovers at 58C on the head per gauge.
Quote from: Long_Gun_Dallas on April 25, 2020, 07:42:16 PMQuote from: tracker1955 on April 25, 2020, 03:07:09 PMThe things I looked for when picking an oil for my unit were these requirements, Synthetic not petroleum, very high flash point to prevent detonation under compression, a viscosity that would lube well especially on the conrod, but not too thick or thin to where it would travel too much or too little. I also prefer an oil that is nearly clear as its easier to see through the oil window and also tell when it's getting dirty and needs to be changed. I can't tell you it's the best but it's working fine for me since my last teardown.This actually has exactly the same flash point as royal purpleHow hot did you run your compressor ? and how long ? that might give us and idea at what temp royal purple starts to burn in that upper cylinder , not that I am going to run it , I am going to order by Monday Nuvair 751 unless I figure out something better … I am just curious ..
Quote from: KnifeMaker on April 25, 2020, 08:16:14 PMI give up. At least Dan and Cooter paid attention. LOLWhat is the old saying, "You can lead a horse to water, but you can't make him drink". Apparently, very true! Just to beat my head against the wall one more time. Most of the oils here are for lower pressure compressors. There has been and is an entire industry built around HP compressors. How can any one not understand this. they are universes apart. Would you put a shop spare portable air tank for airing your tires to work as a 4500 psi vessel? Same logic here people! Some one ask, How do you know what to use. PAY ATTENTION!!! Hello!!! Use a product made for the high stresses of a HP compressor. I don't know what else to say. Knife Mike this thread with all this data is pointing me to several main things to make this Yong heng live longer …1. Run the correct oil for 4-5000 psi compressors , like Nuvair 751 or other a like brand of oil .2. Keep the machine cooled down by using a fan blowing on it + pumping distilled water coolant threw it with redline water wetter or amsoil similar product for better heat transfer, and corrosion protection , that is kept cool , could add some antifreeze to the mix to prevent freezing. I think I may put winded up roll of copper tubing in a ice chest filled with ice , and water , kind of the same idea as using a cool can on a race drag car /hot rod to cool fuel down ... .3. A large desiccant pre filter for air entering the compressor like we do on the shoe box might help if the air flow was not to restricted , and of course 1 of those longer cylinder style filters for the out board side of the compressor …
Quote from: Dan H on April 25, 2020, 08:22:50 PMQuote from: Long_Gun_Dallas on April 25, 2020, 07:42:16 PMQuote from: tracker1955 on April 25, 2020, 03:07:09 PMThe things I looked for when picking an oil for my unit were these requirements, Synthetic not petroleum, very high flash point to prevent detonation under compression, a viscosity that would lube well especially on the conrod, but not too thick or thin to where it would travel too much or too little. I also prefer an oil that is nearly clear as its easier to see through the oil window and also tell when it's getting dirty and needs to be changed. I can't tell you it's the best but it's working fine for me since my last teardown.This actually has exactly the same flash point as royal purpleHow hot did you run your compressor ? and how long ? that might give us and idea at what temp royal purple starts to burn in that upper cylinder , not that I am going to run it , I am going to order by Monday Nuvair 751 unless I figure out something better … I am just curious ..I'd run mine about 15 min. give or take. maybe upward of 20 min. Temps never went past 60 degrees celcius, but I'm assuming detonation would make it hotter, so I have to wonder if that's why using oil with higher flashpoint runs cooler? It's definitely not a case of whether the parts are lubed well enough. Because they absolutely were.
I had emailed Amsoil tech support a while back. They had recommended their ISO 100 synthetic compressor oil for this application. Looks like the Amsoil is $14.95 a quart plus shipping. If I didn’t use the chem lube I think I would go with the Amsoil. I had good luck with Amsoil automotive oils in the past. They are on the expensive side though.
Right, but what I'm saying is the temp may be a result of the burning, not the other way around? Maybe not, though?
Quote from: UnderPressure on April 25, 2020, 04:58:36 AMHow much dive compressor oil does the Yong Heng hold?Roughly 1/3 litre
How much dive compressor oil does the Yong Heng hold?
Oil change intervals of 250 hours or less recommended under good or ideal operating conditions with this oil in high pressure multi-stage reciprocating compressors. Ambient temperatures, cleanliness and filtration of intake air, placement of compressor and proper maintenance are some of the variables that can affect the performance of the oil and the oil interval changes.
Quote from: redtrucker610 on April 25, 2020, 08:29:40 PMI had emailed Amsoil tech support a while back. They had recommended their ISO 100 synthetic compressor oil for this application. Looks like the Amsoil is $14.95 a quart plus shipping. If I didn’t use the chem lube I think I would go with the Amsoil. I had good luck with Amsoil automotive oils in the past. They are on the expensive side though.I think that 100 rating is the same as the royal purple ? and you said running chemlube 157 every thing looked clean with no burning oil in upper cylinder ?, if that is the case I would most defiantly stick with chemlube 157 or same Nuvair 157...
To throw out another thought:It's not the oil you use, its the heat that destroys whatever oil you choose. If we blame carbonizing on the oil used then we discount gendoc using Mobil 1 DTE 25, and all the people swearing by Royal Purple, or people using ISO 100 synthetics, and we have to question the scuba divers who considered these compressors: "so small output that it cannot fill a single scuba tank without extensive cooling periods so it will take forever. And if it is allowed to run too hot it will start burning its lubricating oil and produce CO which will eventually overcome the hopcalite's capacity and may contaminate the air in tank.""if you add enough filtration you can clean up anything. the problem is those cheap chinese compressors have too few stages, so run high compression ratios compared to a modern 4 stage breathing air compressor. this causes dieseling and combined with their other design problems vis a vis overheating and condensation, you will run through your filtration media quicker and have cooling/duty cycle issues to deal with. penny wise, pound foolish."Don't pay attention to what they say concerning SCUBA, but play close attention to the connection they make between HEAT and COOKING THE OIL. So why is it divers who are using diving oil would see it overheating and burning the lube while gendoc using Mobil DTE25 (and those not using dive oil) not see it burning the lube?My answer is HEAT.
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