Quote from: Balu on April 25, 2020, 11:05:29 PMTo throw out another thought:It's not the oil you use, its the heat that destroys whatever oil you choose. If we blame carbonizing on the oil used then we discount gendoc using Mobil 1 DTE 25, and all the people swearing by Royal Purple, or people using ISO 100 synthetics, and we have to question the scuba divers who considered these compressors: "so small output that it cannot fill a single scuba tank without extensive cooling periods so it will take forever. And if it is allowed to run too hot it will start burning its lubricating oil and produce CO which will eventually overcome the hopcalite's capacity and may contaminate the air in tank.""if you add enough filtration you can clean up anything. the problem is those cheap chinese compressors have too few stages, so run high compression ratios compared to a modern 4 stage breathing air compressor. this causes dieseling and combined with their other design problems vis a vis overheating and condensation, you will run through your filtration media quicker and have cooling/duty cycle issues to deal with. penny wise, pound foolish."Don't pay attention to what they say concerning SCUBA, but play close attention to the connection they make between HEAT and COOKING THE OIL. So why is it divers who are using diving oil would see it overheating and burning the lube while gendoc using Mobil DTE25 (and those not using dive oil) not see it burning the lube?My answer is HEAT. I can see your points ,and yes heat is what kills them .. myself I think a combo of using the high quality dive oil combined with cooling to a point that you could run it for a longer period like the guy on the youtube video that was able to go 48 minutes never going past 103 degrees with royal purple , and if a guy is going to run royal purple bought in quarts why not run chemelube 157 cost by the gallon is only 3 bucks more ,and has a higher temp rating i think ... just for fun lets say you change the oil 4 times a year , 1 gallon will give you about 3 years worth of oil cost 30 bucks a year ..
To throw out another thought:It's not the oil you use, its the heat that destroys whatever oil you choose. If we blame carbonizing on the oil used then we discount gendoc using Mobil 1 DTE 25, and all the people swearing by Royal Purple, or people using ISO 100 synthetics, and we have to question the scuba divers who considered these compressors: "so small output that it cannot fill a single scuba tank without extensive cooling periods so it will take forever. And if it is allowed to run too hot it will start burning its lubricating oil and produce CO which will eventually overcome the hopcalite's capacity and may contaminate the air in tank.""if you add enough filtration you can clean up anything. the problem is those cheap chinese compressors have too few stages, so run high compression ratios compared to a modern 4 stage breathing air compressor. this causes dieseling and combined with their other design problems vis a vis overheating and condensation, you will run through your filtration media quicker and have cooling/duty cycle issues to deal with. penny wise, pound foolish."Don't pay attention to what they say concerning SCUBA, but play close attention to the connection they make between HEAT and COOKING THE OIL. So why is it divers who are using diving oil would see it overheating and burning the lube while gendoc using Mobil DTE25 (and those not using dive oil) not see it burning the lube?My answer is HEAT.
One must remember, the crank to rod connection. (Race) has no bearings. This has been a huge Achelies Heal for may of the Chinese Compressors. The larger 1399 buck AirVenturi Compressors are famous for the crank galling the connecting rod. Heat caused this to be sped up exponentially. this locks up the compressor. With one year warranty, this is a bgitter pill to swallow for us. We need longgevity. Not a May Pop! Why in tarnation they cannot address this basic issue is beyond me. Now to the question of a copper coil running in ice water. The comment that we are not making Moon Shine is well, I'm a transplated Southerner from the Mountains. Nothing wrong with a little Shine! Think of it as "Multi Tasking". Knife
Quote from: KnifeMaker on April 26, 2020, 09:52:27 AMOne must remember, the crank to rod connection. (Race) has no bearings. This has been a huge Achelies Heal for may of the Chinese Compressors. The larger 1399 buck AirVenturi Compressors are famous for the crank galling the connecting rod. Heat caused this to be sped up exponentially. this locks up the compressor. With one year warranty, this is a bgitter pill to swallow for us. We need longgevity. Not a May Pop! Why in tarnation they cannot address this basic issue is beyond me. Now to the question of a copper coil running in ice water. The comment that we are not making Moon Shine is well, I'm a transplated Southerner from the Mountains. Nothing wrong with a little Shine! Think of it as "Multi Tasking". KnifeI will say, when I took mine apart, the crank journal and rod were as smooth as could be where they rode on eachother. Cylinder looked spectacular as well. So, I do think the royal purple is an excellent lubricant. But is intended for standard shop compressors. Nowhere near approaching the pressures we use.
It's too bad the Chinese don't make something similar to these in aluminum in the right diameter to fit the stainless tubing that gets so hot, multiples along the length would act as good heat sinks to deflect heat away with fans blowing over them.https://hobbyking.com/en_us/dr-mad-thrust-series-alloy-motor-heat-sink-for-28mm-size-motor.html?queryID=2ef6b2f25cdecc94cc165693ba3e0bbb&objectID=45688&indexName=hbk_live_magento_en_us_products
Here's a picture of my setup. 12 gallons of distilled water with two bottles of water wetter. Stays nice and cool.
Quote from: Backyard Shootr on April 26, 2020, 10:04:38 AMHere's a picture of my setup. 12 gallons of distilled water with two bottles of water wetter. Stays nice and cool. Great setup Bob! I need to build something the gun rack you have. Would work great to see opposie side gauges.You guys looking for cooling the stainless steel tubes search "ROUND EXTRUDED HEAT SINK."https://www.alibaba.com/showroom/round-extruded-heatsink.html
Don't drink the Kool-Aid thinking all synthetic oils are not hydrocarbon based:Synthetic oil is a lubricant consisting of chemical compounds that are artificially made. Synthetic lubricants can be manufactured using chemically modified petroleum components rather than whole crude oil, but can also be synthesized from other raw materials. The base material, however, is still overwhelmingly crude oil that is distilled and then modified physically and chemically.Know your synthetic. 751 is an Ester oil and completely synthetic!CHEMLUBE 751: Diester ISO Grade: 150 Viscosity @ 40°C / 100°C: 146.5 / 13.3 Viscosity Index: 90 Flash Point °C / °F: 271 Pour Point °C / °F: -34 Specific Gravity: 0.93 DIESTER-BASED COMPRESSOR LUBRICANTS Applications: The Chemlube diester-based fluids are full synthetic compressor lubricants specially formulated with premium synthetic ester base stocks for use in a wide variety of air compressors. Chemlube 501 and 751 are recommended for reciprocating compressors and vacuum pumps using the following gases: Air, Butadiene, Carbon Dioxide (dry), Furnace (crack) Gas, Ethylene, Natural Gas, Helium, Hydrogen, Methane, Synthesis Gas, Hydrogen Sulfide (dry), Sulphur Hexafluoride, Propane, Carbon Monoxide, Nitrogen Nominal Operating Range is -15°C to 230°C (5°F to 445°F) Typical Industrial Applications: Rotary Screw Compressors Rotary Vane Compressors Centrifugal Compressors Reciprocating Compressors Performance Benefits: Outstanding thermal and oxidative stability Will not varnish or form carbon deposits Wide operating temperature range Built in detergency action Extended drain intervals reduces oil disposal, thus increasing cost effectiveness Caution: May affect some paint finishes, plastics and seals USDA H-2 authorized This item maybe a good replacement oil for the following part numbers: Syntholube SL 150, Anderol 750, Anderol 755, Syntholube 150, Emgard 2150, Air Lube DE 40, CS-400, Syndustrial R&O 150, CP-4100-150, Synesstic 150, 32248387, 32248395, 39163266, 39163274, Kaeser VDL 15, Sigma S-150, KSL Compressor 150, Compressor King Diester 125, Synac 150, Rarus 829, Pennzcom S-150, Royco 4150, Synfilm Recip. 150,DSL-125, DSL-150 The information contained in this Cross-Reference is intended as a guide to help a knowledgeable professional select the proper oil for a particular application. It is important that the actual application be known. Information may be based on such things as competitors published marketing data, product data sheets.
Hey we can do a group buy for $39 per gallon of Chemlube 751 :