The instruction manual that came with my YH specifies AW46, and that is what I use, just regular AW46 hydraulic oil. But I do two additional things. First is that I change the oil after every 2 hours of operation. Because I only run my compressor for 15 minutes (max) at a time, that doesn't amount to a lot of oil or oil changes.Second is that I try and keep the water temp at a steady 60C. The manual recommends 50 to 70c, so I figure staying in the middle should work well.The reason I only run the compressor for 15 minutes at a time is because the temp gauge is in the water jacket and not down below the cast iron air cooling fins and the crank case. I figure that their heat will gradually increase as the compressor is run, unlike the water cooled portion where the temp can be held constant.In other words, I think how you operate the compressor and how often you change the recommended oil is more important than trying to find the perfect oil. And my compressor has a lot of hours on it. And has been thru a bunch of o-rings, too.
I have just purchased a yong heng compressor, I need oil and see that Air Venturi 4500 Compressor Oil, Chemlube 751, Nuvair 751, Nuvair 455, August Industries SL-500, have all been mentioned for known good lubricants.Without any drama (please) and after reading hundreds of pages regarding HP compressor oils, is there an 'affordable' one on the list and where can I buy it?Second question is; is there any similarity between vacuum pump oil and HP compressor oil? No flames please, just facts if you will.There is only one place in 100 miles from me that has a scuba compressor for sport diving, Duluth has several and of the two I called, they have no oil to sell locally. The one by me has the August Industries SL-500 in a 5 gallon pail for their compressor but will not sell any retail.The BAUER HP compressor oil looks to be repackaged August Industries SL-500? If so, I can get a gallon shipped for $73.00. Thanks in advance for your kind replys!
Quote from: lloyd-ss on March 27, 2021, 07:11:25 PMThe instruction manual that came with my YH specifies AW46, and that is what I use, just regular AW46 hydraulic oil. But I do two additional things. First is that I change the oil after every 2 hours of operation. Because I only run my compressor for 15 minutes (max) at a time, that doesn't amount to a lot of oil or oil changes.Second is that I try and keep the water temp at a steady 60C. The manual recommends 50 to 70c, so I figure staying in the middle should work well.The reason I only run the compressor for 15 minutes at a time is because the temp gauge is in the water jacket and not down below the cast iron air cooling fins and the crank case. I figure that their heat will gradually increase as the compressor is run, unlike the water cooled portion where the temp can be held constant.In other words, I think how you operate the compressor and how often you change the recommended oil is more important than trying to find the perfect oil. And my compressor has a lot of hours on it. And has been thru a bunch of o-rings, too.Thanks Lloyd but it's not a HP rated oil so I have to pass.
DavidFWIW I use Air Venturi 4500 compressor oil 16 0z. for $9.99 at PA.
Quote from: lloyd-ss on March 27, 2021, 07:11:25 PMThe instruction manual that came with my YH specifies AW46, and that is what I use, just regular AW46 hydraulic oil. But I do two additional things. First is that I change the oil after every 2 hours of operation. Because I only run my compressor for 15 minutes (max) at a time, that doesn't amount to a lot of oil or oil changes.Second is that I try and keep the water temp at a steady 60C. The manual recommends 50 to 70c, so I figure staying in the middle should work well.The reason I only run the compressor for 15 minutes at a time is because the temp gauge is in the water jacket and not down below the cast iron air cooling fins and the crank case. I figure that their heat will gradually increase as the compressor is run, unlike the water cooled portion where the temp can be held constant.In other words, I think how you operate the compressor and how often you change the recommended oil is more important than trying to find the perfect oil. And my compressor has a lot of hours on it. And has been thru a bunch of o-rings, too.Lloyd, Y.H. has recently stopped recommending the #46 oil stating that they have learned that is is causing damage in their units. They now recommend Mobil Rarus oil. However, it is very costly and I don't care for the smell. Nuvair, dealers in industrial and dive compressors sells the Chemlube from Coltri, and also have their own oil that when bought by the gal. is within a dollar or two of Royal Purple. And has a much higher flash point. Low flash points kill hp compressors. Alkin has published a memo stating exactly that. Along with the how and why. I posted their memo here in this thread. Remember,it is not the crank that is in danger from improper oils, but both detonaltin and carbon build up on the reed valves that is the issue. Causing the compressor to have to work harder as as it causes back pressure into the cylinder.. This can cause all kinds of issues other than the having to work harder and higher heat. The backpressure adds a tremendous load to the piston, crank/piston rod. Best case, the rod snaps, Worse case, the entire front cover can literally explode off the unit.Sadly, the Air Venturi blend is one of the worst choices one can make. It is a blend of synthetic and norman oil. Which has a low flash point. This causes detonation which not only builds carbon deposits ont he reed valves, but is known to load the rod to the point of failure. The reviews of the A.VV compressors at P.A. are loaded with such failures. Yet they refuse to address the issue. Inexcusable!Mike
Quote from: KnifeMaker on March 28, 2021, 03:05:09 PMQuote from: lloyd-ss on March 27, 2021, 07:11:25 PMThe instruction manual that came with my YH specifies AW46, and that is what I use, just regular AW46 hydraulic oil. But I do two additional things. First is that I change the oil after every 2 hours of operation. Because I only run my compressor for 15 minutes (max) at a time, that doesn't amount to a lot of oil or oil changes.Second is that I try and keep the water temp at a steady 60C. The manual recommends 50 to 70c, so I figure staying in the middle should work well.The reason I only run the compressor for 15 minutes at a time is because the temp gauge is in the water jacket and not down below the cast iron air cooling fins and the crank case. I figure that their heat will gradually increase as the compressor is run, unlike the water cooled portion where the temp can be held constant.In other words, I think how you operate the compressor and how often you change the recommended oil is more important than trying to find the perfect oil. And my compressor has a lot of hours on it. And has been thru a bunch of o-rings, too.Lloyd, Y.H. has recently stopped recommending the #46 oil stating that they have learned that is is causing damage in their units. They now recommend Mobil Rarus oil. However, it is very costly and I don't care for the smell. Nuvair, dealers in industrial and dive compressors sells the Chemlube from Coltri, and also have their own oil that when bought by the gal. is within a dollar or two of Royal Purple. And has a much higher flash point. Low flash points kill hp compressors. Alkin has published a memo stating exactly that. Along with the how and why. I posted their memo here in this thread. Remember,it is not the crank that is in danger from improper oils, but both detonaltin and carbon build up on the reed valves that is the issue. Causing the compressor to have to work harder as as it causes back pressure into the cylinder.. This can cause all kinds of issues other than the having to work harder and higher heat. The backpressure adds a tremendous load to the piston, crank/piston rod. Best case, the rod snaps, Worse case, the entire front cover can literally explode off the unit.Sadly, the Air Venturi blend is one of the worst choices one can make. It is a blend of synthetic and norman oil. Which has a low flash point. This causes detonation which not only builds carbon deposits ont he reed valves, but is known to load the rod to the point of failure. The reviews of the A.VV compressors at P.A. are loaded with such failures. Yet they refuse to address the issue. Inexcusable!MikeMike, I got a little lost in the minutiae, what do you actually recommend?
Firewalker, was looking at your avatar, you trying to fill that tank with that little compressor or use the tank to resuscitate it?
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