Quote from: Airnut on March 10, 2021, 11:17:01 AMKnifeIt's not what you say it's sometimes how you say it.My issue is that you are giving the impression that using the correct oil guarantees no failures and that's not true. There has been failures with the "correct oil"You ask me to give you just one case were there was a failure. I can not because they are scared to come forward and get a toung whipping from you. I have been e - mailed by two people stating that there compressor failed using your recommended oil. I agree with you that they need to use the proper oil but even so there will be failures. It's not a reflection on the oil. It a reflection of the machine. Will using the proper oil help in longevity ? No doubt.My biggest question is should these compressors be used to fill large tanks? I fill two 88 cf tanks almost daily, bot I take additional precautions with heat. The wrap on the tubes is an example. Still, it is a no bearing unit and prone to failure . And exactly why I am now moving up to a actual dive compressor. I used Shoe Box for what, 15 years. Tried the Atros and liked it, but it was very hard on the full size 80 gal shop compressor. Remember, I said compressor failure with the proper oil used from the beginning. Not added later. If some one besides my self did start wit the better oils, I don't know who it was. I do a lot of research. I would love to hear from them. The proper oils are to protect the cylinder head and valves. Not the crank. Any oil will do that. Only failures of piston, valve cylinder heads is of interest in this regard. If the failure was crank to rod, well, that is poor design with NO bearings just alu. to steel. Very poor design. No oil can fix a bad design or make a magic bearing where there is none. Knife
KnifeIt's not what you say it's sometimes how you say it.My issue is that you are giving the impression that using the correct oil guarantees no failures and that's not true. There has been failures with the "correct oil"You ask me to give you just one case were there was a failure. I can not because they are scared to come forward and get a toung whipping from you. I have been e - mailed by two people stating that there compressor failed using your recommended oil. I agree with you that they need to use the proper oil but even so there will be failures. It's not a reflection on the oil. It a reflection of the machine. Will using the proper oil help in longevity ? No doubt.My biggest question is should these compressors be used to fill large tanks?
Knife From what I am hearing the new Y H compressors the manufacturer is recommending HP oil now and not hydro oil.
Dan, apparently I am to be admonished for having a post count as well. Somebody sounds a little butt hurt. LOL.Yep, the pre ignition (dieseling). breaks rods. If no one believe it, follow drag racing. Dan gets it!. and yes, I'm impatient with willful ignorance. My motor seized tonight. No telling howl many hours it has on it before I came to work here. LOLI don't remember saying anything about my shot count. Wish more people were like Dan. He listens with his mind and not his feelings. Every body is the hurt victim now days. Wish people would learn to grow a pair again. I still remember when were men and didn't run around with their hurt feelings on their sleeve just waiting for some one to dis them. It's a different world now. We're just sooooooo sencitive.
Quote from: KnifeMaker on March 11, 2021, 04:59:59 AMDan, apparently I am to be admonished for having a post count as well. Somebody sounds a little butt hurt. LOL.Yep, the pre ignition (dieseling). breaks rods. If no one believe it, follow drag racing. Dan gets it!. and yes, I'm impatient with willful ignorance. My motor seized tonight. No telling howl many hours it has on it before I came to work here. LOLI don't remember saying anything about my shot count. Wish more people were like Dan. He listens with his mind and not his feelings. Every body is the hurt victim now days. Wish people would learn to grow a pair again. I still remember when were men and didn't run around with their hurt feelings on their sleeve just waiting for some one to dis them. It's a different world now. We're just sooooooo sencitive. The most sensitive, angry and disgruntled snowflake on this forum calls others sensitive. Hilarious.
LLoyd.... do you fill tanks with it?Mind sharing what oil you use?Not to start any bickering but, some of us would like to know the secret to your success.Thanks.I'm going on 2 years on my Vevor.I initially used 30wt synthetic but have since switched to AV compressor oil.I fill only guns.
Quote from: avator on March 14, 2021, 08:50:37 PMLLoyd.... do you fill tanks with it?Mind sharing what oil you use?Not to start any bickering but, some of us would like to know the secret to your success.Thanks.I'm going on 2 years on my Vevor.I initially used 30wt synthetic but have since switched to AV compressor oil.I fill only guns.I only use it to top off tanks, and I never run it longer than 10 minutes, and 15 minutes at the very most. I hook it up to an outdoor faucet and adjust the water flow to keep the temp at 59 or 60C. I think keeping the temp constant helps. I also pay attention to how long it takes to top off the tank and if it seems to be taking longer that usually means one of the o-rings has failed and the compressor is going to do a lot of work and not put out much air. Also, I usually don't fill over 4k because i really don't need to and reaching the higher pressure really puts a lot of heat and stress into the compressor. I use the recommended AW46 hyd oil and changed it after the first 15 minutes of operation, and then after the next 15 minutes also. Now, I change it about every 6 months. I don't know how much it helps but I always treat the first fill of oil in a machine or engine as "throw away" after a very short run time. If there was some manufacturing debris in the new machine, no sense letting circulate around for months. Not saying what I do is correct, but it works for me.
Thank you Lloyd, much appreciated, and pretty much my thoughts exactly. I use plenty of ice in the bucket, and a 1k cu.ft.minute vortex fan, keeping a steady state of 50c or so while filling a 45 minute bottle. I plan to reconfigure the set pressure shut off wiring to take the load off the weak contacts of the suspect relay. I ordered the “hardback” compressor, but received the “set-pressure” version.
Quote from: Spanky on March 17, 2021, 11:17:14 AM Thank you Lloyd, much appreciated, and pretty much my thoughts exactly. I use plenty of ice in the bucket, and a 1k cu.ft.minute vortex fan, keeping a steady state of 50c or so while filling a 45 minute bottle. I plan to reconfigure the set pressure shut off wiring to take the load off the weak contacts of the suspect relay. I ordered the “hardback” compressor, but received the “set-pressure” version. I think keeping the temperature steady is very important. But still, limit the run time to 15 minutes or so. The thermocouple is is in the base of the aluminum water jacket of the high pressure stage, where most of the heat is generated, But the first stage and crank case just have the air cooling and the temp can creep up without you realizing it.Bill, regarding the condensation, that is a good question. If the humidity is high, there will be lots of water in the air and it has to condense out somewhere. Compressing the air to 3500 psi, you are basically increasing (concentrating) the amount of water in the air by over 200 times. The bleed vents on the compressor help, as does the filter, but I live where the humidity is high and I always struggle with the moisture. I am finally getting around to making a molecular sieve moisture trap. Should have done it years ago.
I wouldn't flush, unless it is with the new oil. Probably start by running the compressor for a minute or 2 to warm it up. Then drain it, including tilting it up and leaving it like that until it stops dripping. Set it back down flat. install the drain plug. Add a couple of ounces of the new oil and roll the compressor around to distribute the new oil. Drain it again, including leaving it it tilted up until all dripping stops. Reinstall the plug and fill to the correct height with the new oil. There might be a tenth of one percent of the old oil in the crankcase, and that should be plenty adequate I would think. It seems like heat buildup is the killer on these. Keep runtime less than 10 or fifteen minutes. Keep the temperature gauge steady at 59 or 60C. If it starts sounding "different" or the pressure stops building up, turn it off and let cool down. Replace the check valve o-ring if it stops building pressure. Just my limited experience with the YH.
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