Was this not the one I thought had been returned and had arrived upside down letting oil seep into second stage piston and seals?
Did you try doing a little break-in on it before trying to build pressure? When I first got mine it was upside down, removed the top cylinder, and cleaned off all the oil, I then ran it in short bursts with both bleed valves open. When the seals are new it gets hot really fast. I continued to run it in shorts bursts extending the run time after each cool down. I didn't try using it to build pressure until I could run it with no load for about 10 minutes without it getting hot and wanting to seize. The first oil run turned almost black very fast as the new rings break-in and seat. Oil will stay cleaner much longer after the break-in.
I rather doubt they are hurt, they just get very hot because they're soooo tight when new. The oil that was in the top of my second stage even after cleaning was enough to cause some detonation and vapor locking until it cleared and the seals wore in a bit, then it ran like a champ for nearly a year. Because of bad information out there in web land at the beginning concerning oils, I made the mistake of using full synthetic Husky compressor oil in mine until my second stage piston had a catastrophic failure. After replacing my piston and seals and learning more about the need for quality oil, flash point, and detonation, along with carbon fouling, I switched to better oil and have run trouble-free for the past two years. The only other real issue I've had was a pressure gauge blowout, and a check valve failure that is at the base of my molecular sieve filter. I keep a vibration-activated hour meter on mine to monitor the run time, I'm about due for an oil change again and I've noticed it's starting to get a little darker. The beauty of these little machines are that they work quite well, you can use them to fill guns or tanks, the parts are available on the web albeit you'll have to wait for them to ship over, and they're pretty easy to diagnose and repair. I have learned to just keep the basic parts in my own inventory for possible future repairs so I don't have to hand pump while I wait on parts.
One thing about the Chinese as well as some US vendor/manufacturers is they will change what goes on the unit or in the box based upon a bulk buyer's request. This could help explain why some new units still come with the old instructions inside, that or the vendor is still sitting on new/old stock with old paperwork. Not sure which is the case with yours, but if you want it to last do what you can to take care of it. I'd also recommend getting a good water separator to go with it if you decide to fill tanks, you don't want water to condense inside an scba type tank as it will corrode the liner. Wish you luck and good shooting.
My directions stated that it didn't want the compressor running for more than 1hour continuous I don't know what it could fill or what it would take to fill a scuba tank but I was thinking about wiring a simple timer on the compressor. run for X amount of time auto shut off for X amount then run again till the pressure switch kicks it out.Thanks again!
Ok, let's give you some basic ground rules for use that are working for most of us that use the YH regularly. #1. Although your unit came with an auto-shutdown switch I would not recommend using it. When using your compressor you'll first want to watch it fill so you can keep an eye on things that can and will go wrong. It's also very hard on these little compressors to be shut down while under a load, it puts unnecessary strain on the rod and crankpin. It is recommended that the unit be bleed off at the relief valves and then shut off manually with the switch. #2. If filling a tank do not fill beyond 4300 psi, not 4500 or you will likely blow the burst disc. #3. If filling a tank try not to run the unit more than 10-15 mins max to keep the heat down. #4. You'll need to monitor the temp closely, most don't let the temp go higher than 60c before giving the unit a chance to rest and come back down to room temp. #5. If filling a large vessel, purge the high side blow off approx every 5 minutes to rid it of accumulated water. It's also good to keep all your lines running uphill away from the compressor so any water that condenses in the line runs back toward the high side blow-off. #6. Keep enough volume of water in your container to prevent water temp rise or add bottles of ice to the container to help keep the unit cool. Heat is your enemy with these units. Many like myself use an extra fan to blow cool air over the second stage, or upper part of the compressor to aid in cooling. Some wrap wet rags over the ss tubing which also helps to keep the heat down. #7. If you maintain a container of water for cooling as I and others do, its a good idea to add a bottle of Red Line water wetter to the water as it helps in pulling heat away as it goes through the water jacket. #8. When done filling with air, remove the tampon filter from the housing and set it out to dry, it can be used multiple times before it accumulates enough oily residue that it needs to be discarded. By removing it you're helping prevent rust that forms on the fittings inside the filter housing by allowing it to dry, thereby extending its life. #9. If your going to fill tanks it's good to add a larger hurricane blow-off like those sold on ebay, especially if you live in a humid region of the country. I use a filter filled with molecular sieve to remove any water that the compressors blow down misses to prevent water vapor from entering my tank, I also have a check valve in its base which allows for easier filling because I can open my tanks valve and back pressure the filter without backpressuring the compressor, then when the pressure in the line equals the pressure in the tank the valve opens letting air to flow into the tank. It also makes it easy to purge water with the blow-off when filling.
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