Author Topic: 2400kt, Bottled, Regulated (Read 50155 times))

BigTinBoat · « **Reply #80 on:** December 02, 2015, 01:38:04 PM »

Quote from: aPpYe on December 02, 2015, 01:56:41 AM

...At least it didn't burst. I do hear some air coming out of there now... I hope I did not install it too tight or something. I hand tightened it and gave it maybe a quarter to half a turn more, I don't remember. I wrapped white teflon tape around the threads two times... The sound does seem to be coming from the two holes on the side of the disk housing though. Do burst disks ever just leak slowly like that? Don't they normally either stay solid or burst suddenly? Maybe it is defective? Tim did not test it while I was there...

I will take it apart tomorrow and try again. I pumped that thing up four times over the course of about an hour and I am tired!

Sounds like it's leaking. I would take the tape off the threads as they do not seal. The copper colored "disc" on the end of the threads is what seals against the face of the regulator. I give mine a little torque with a socket. You should not hear any air coming out.......until it bursts.

rsterne · « **Reply #81 on:** December 02, 2015, 02:53:03 PM »

You don't use Teflon tape on a burst disc, it has straight thread (not tapered pipe thread) and seals against the shoulder on the bottom of the hole with the copper disc, as noted....

Bob

aPpYe · « **Reply #82 on:** December 02, 2015, 05:35:51 PM »

Okay, I will remove the teflon... How much torque do you normally apply?

BigTinBoat · « **Reply #83 on:** December 02, 2015, 05:39:12 PM »

Quote from: aPpYe on December 02, 2015, 05:35:51 PM

Okay, I will remove the teflon... How much torque do you normally apply?

Never even had anything to measure with, but I would say I tighten a little less then I do for spark plugs.

aPpYe · « **Reply #84 on:** December 02, 2015, 05:51:22 PM »

Okay. I was a little scared to overtighten. What materials are in play here anyway?

BigTinBoat · « **Reply #85 on:** December 02, 2015, 06:12:36 PM »

Quote from: aPpYe on December 02, 2015, 05:51:22 PM

Okay. I was a little scared to overtighten. What materials are in play here anyway?

Alum bonnet and brass or bronze disc I would say

aPpYe · « **Reply #86 on:** December 03, 2015, 03:58:01 AM »

Okay I THINK I got the disk squared away... I don't hear any hissing coming from there anyway. It is hard to tell for sure because now I am getting a leak passed the ball valve!!! Do the Bellville stack and the piston pull out as an assembly, as I have seen on some YouTube videos? I am wanting to get a closer look at what is going on with the little gasket. I have a ninja pcp regulator with a sort of copper colored base, and the bonnet is marked "1400 PSI OUTPUT" ...

rsterne · « **Reply #87 on:** December 03, 2015, 12:40:58 PM »

Soapy water is the best for checking leaks.... There are no "gaskets" in a regulator, just O-rings, and the ball shaped seal on the end of the piston....

Bob

aPpYe · « **Reply #88 on:** December 03, 2015, 04:51:06 PM »

Well the little green print that the ball seals against then...

aPpYe · « **Reply #89 on:** December 03, 2015, 07:05:02 PM »

sigh. I need to stop using my phone on this forum. I was referring to the little green oring that is in between the ball and the housing.

sr1sws · « **Reply #90 on:** December 03, 2015, 07:15:55 PM »

Quote from: aPpYe on December 03, 2015, 07:05:02 PM

sigh. I need to stop using my phone on this forum. I was referring to the little green oring that is in between the ball and the housing.

Autocorrect passes me of.

Steve

aPpYe · « **Reply #91 on:** December 04, 2015, 01:31:45 AM »

Okay, I took the bonnet apart and reseated the little square edged oring that the steel ball sits against. I liberally applied silicone grease to all seals, put it together and pumped it up. It seems all leaks are squared away. That square edged oring was the only oring that was not of the white 90 durometer variety. Perhaps Tim forgot to upgrade that one? It was sort of spread around the hole so the ball was pressing metal to metal against the housing.

Could this have been caused by me letting the air out too quickly or incorrectly somehow? Is there a proper method to degassing the bottle?

Anyway, it sits in the spare room at exactly 3000psi, according to the ninja gauge... We shall see if it is still sitting there tomorrow morning. I am thinking it might not be a bad idea to retest the output pressure as well, since I did remove the stack and put it back in...

rsterne · « **Reply #92 on:** December 04, 2015, 12:26:13 PM »

Quote

the little square edged oring that the steel ball sits against.

Must be a different Ninja regulator than any of mine.... All the ones I have use the brass pin valve sitting on a Delrin seat that looks like a conventional (round section)O-ring on the outlet side of the bonnet....

Bob

BigTinBoat · « **Reply #93 on:** December 04, 2015, 12:35:40 PM »

Quote from: rsterne on December 04, 2015, 12:26:13 PM

Quote
the little square edged oring that the steel ball sits against.

Must be a different Ninja regulator than any of mine.... All the ones I have use the brass pin valve sitting on a Delrin seat that looks like a conventional (round section)O-ring on the outlet side of the bonnet....

Bob

The "newer" ninja's do have a "ball", not a pin. I've got some of each

rsterne · « **Reply #94 on:** December 04, 2015, 01:48:07 PM »

I've seen that.... don't have any, never had one apart.... Is that part of the system to insure that HP regulators can't be used on paintball guns?....

Bob

BigTinBoat · « **Reply #95 on:** December 04, 2015, 01:54:41 PM »

Quote from: rsterne on December 04, 2015, 01:48:07 PM

I've seen that.... don't have any, never had one apart.... Is that part of the system to insure that HP regulators can't be used on paintball guns?....

Bob

No, it is the regular paintball one, this is the PCP one......valve is much deeper in bonnet

aPpYe · « **Reply #96 on:** December 04, 2015, 04:48:57 PM »

Hmm. Here are some pics of mine. As you can see there is no recession like the one in the previous post. Maybe it is because it is the "1400psi output" model ...

Here is a picture of the ball removed with the little oring, you can see a slight deformity in the oring itself. This is the one I am wondering if Tim forgot to replace...

This morning I woke up to see that it had lost about 250 lbs, according to the ninja gauge. I used soapy water to see that the seal was completely solid at the ball valve, and that there was a very slow leak at the 1.8k disk once again. I took it out and saw that an eylash (nosehair?) had fallen down in there and was likely the culprit. I added a thin film of silicone grease to the mating surface (the cup?) of the disk and reinstalled. It is now sitting at 2500psi, because the line is thinner, and I will more readily recognize needle movement against it. I don't see any bubbles coming up with the soapy water, so hopefully we are good this time. I will let it sit like that and see how it looks tomorrow.

Man! Keeping this stuff sealed is no joke! I may need to get me a lab coat...

aPpYe · « **Reply #97 on:** December 04, 2015, 05:24:21 PM »

"Your Crosman order has shipped!"

Oh happy day!!!

aPpYe · « **Reply #98 on:** December 04, 2015, 07:28:31 PM »

Sigh... Still leaking. How many times can I remove and replace a burst disk before it is ruined? Maybe I shouldn't have used the grease? I dunno... It could very well be leaking elsewhere. I just saw that it has already lost a couple hundred pounds in as many hours...

aPpYe · « **Reply #99 on:** December 04, 2015, 11:13:55 PM »

Hmm. I seem to remember that temperature does have some minimal effect on pressure... I think maybe I am seeing this. I filled to just a nosehair above 2500psi at around 11am today, and noticed by about 12:30 that the pressure had dropped to maybe 2400psi. I went all day thinking that I would have to take things down and inspect for eylashes and nosehairs yet again. Now, at 7:13pm, I am seeing that the needle has not moved at all since 12:30. I am guessing this is to be expected?

EDIT: All right! I see references to "slam filling" and other terms used that describe this very thing. The tank gets warm after an initial fill, and the pressure is found to be decreased some hours later. I am guessing the friction of all the air particles being closer together and whacking (that's a scientific term, by the way!) against one another creates heat, but once all the all that high pressure whacking, smacking, bashing, swirling, hitting, tomfoolery and general shenanigans settles down, the temperature, and corresponding pressure, drops slightly! Yeah, I am getting me a lab coat for sure!

Thank you to our advertisers!

2400kt, Bottled, Regulated

Author Topic: 2400kt, Bottled, Regulated (Read 50155 times))

BigTinBoat

BigTinBoat

BigTinBoat

BigTinBoat

BigTinBoat