1377 wood and steel rifle build with tootsie roll forearm

[Van]

Wait.... the Sheridan only uses one screw to secure the stock and does it not also secure the valve?
Or maybe I'm mistaken and it's been too long since I serviced my Dans.... lol

    The Blue Streak I have uses only one screw but the action screw fastens from inside the tube with a washer then into a nut and does not go into the valve.  The stock screw fasters to that nut.

[avator]

Wait.... the Sheridan only uses one screw to secure the stock and does it not also secure the valve?
Or maybe I'm mistaken and it's been too long since I serviced my Dans.... lol

    The Blue Streak I have uses only one screw but the action screw fastens from inside the tube with a washer then into a nut and does not go into the valve.  The stock screw fasters to that nut.

YESSIR.... the fog has cleared and I stand corrected.

[melvin]

Because the stock lug is being used as a retaining screw for the valve is there danger in valve shooting out the back of the main tube if the stud shears?  That’s really my only concern.
(Because the action feels nice and snug as it sits on my builds)

Wish Bob would bump into this thread.

[Van]

   There is not enough pressure in a pump gun tube to shear that stock screw and get by the indented stop in the tube at the back of the valve.  Then it would have to go through the hammer and end plug.  I have pinned a few pumper valves just to experiment with to see if it made a difference in pumping, but don't think it made much difference.   PCP valves are a must to be anchored with multiple strong screws though as the pressure is in the tube at the front of the valve.

[avator]

I agree.. the pressure is in the pump stroke. Once the check valve in the valve sets the pressure is contained within the valve. Now, it's another story if you're way over pumping the gun, which I don't do.

[YEMX]

Personally, I've never had any issues...  This will be my third 13xx build doing it this way.  I'm not saying it's the only way to skin a cat.  Simply the way I've always done it.  I've never pinned a 13xx valve either. 

The only reason I like the flat top valve and piston is not so much more power, but the same power with less pumps...  I'm sure someone has already done a chart or something, but I think it's 7 or 8 strokes for the same power as 10?  You could get more power of course, by simply keep pumping past 10...  I don't think I've ever gone past 15 pumps.  But that was just to see how hard pumping would be.

[melvin]

I agree.. the pressure is in the pump stroke. Once the check valve in the valve sets the pressure is contained within the valve. Now, it's another story if you're way over pumping the gun, which I don't do.

This is the way I viewed it.

Yes over pumping is silly.   At least in my situation and yours as I know you have a pile of different rifles with different power levels too.

Grab the right tool for the job.

Hey Van that was very good info you provided. Nice to see this sorta build that’s been in service for a while with no issues.

I put 500 pellets through my last pumper build a  couple weeks ago and it still feels very solid.

[avator]

I agree.. the pressure is in the pump stroke. Once the check valve in the valve sets the pressure is contained within the valve. Now, it's another story if you're way over pumping the gun, which I don't do.

This is the way I viewed it.

Yes over pumping is silly.   At least in my situation and yours as I know you have a pile of different rifles with different power levels too.

Grab the right tool for the job.

NAILED IT !!!

[melvin]

That stock is awesome! Did you have to cut off the handle to get it like that? Also how easy is it to pop the stock off? I think it would be great to have something you could break down without tools and throw it in a backpack, sort of like a survival rifle.

Thankyou. I cut the forearm off of the qb78 stock yes.

You could easily make one of these modular like your suggesting. Probably just carry the tools with you to take it down. Thread on suppressor or none would help. 

Easiest route would probably be the 100 dollar Crosman backpacker however.

[avator]

That stock is awesome! Did you have to cut off the handle to get it like that? Also how easy is it to pop the stock off? I think it would be great to have something you could break down without tools and throw it in a backpack, sort of like a survival rifle.

Thankyou. I cut the forearm off of the qb78 stock yes.

You could easily make one of these modular like your suggesting. Probably just carry the tools with you to take it down. Thread on suppressor or none would help. 

Easiest route would probably be the 100 dollar Crosman backpacker however.

Where's the fun in that?

[bantam5s]

Wait.... the Sheridan only uses one screw to secure the stock and does it not also secure the valve?
Or maybe I'm mistaken and it's been too long since I serviced my Dans.... lol

It has a special bolt that goes though, If i remember correctly it does go through the valve but it's not just screwed into the valve or anything.

[bantam5s]

What do you mean "not enough"?  It securely holds the pistol grip fine.  I just grab the top of the gun around the breech when I pump.  I don't hold the stock while pumping.

   I used the 2260 stock lug on both my pumper builds and they have held up for several years of pumping as YEMX describes.  The top one is on a 2200 tube with a stock I made from a blank.  The bottom is a 2260 stock (old style) on a 1377. One is a brass flat top valve and the other is an aluminum flat top valve.  There has been no difference between the two.  Both are as tight as day one after years of pumping.  I  hold by the pistol grip when pumping with a scope.  They are easy on pumping not hard like a 392.  I think that's why they hold up well with this mount lug.

Did you drill a hole for a rear screw or just use the lug in front ?
If so I may go this route when I redo mine.

I'll just need to get the part numbers.

Great work on your builds btw

[Van]

  Thanks David,  I did not drill a hole in the stock for the rear screw.  I just fastened the trigger pack to the tube with a short screw in back.   If you use a 2260 stock it is inlet for the trigger pack snugly at the back and the lug at the front holds securely.  The 1377 type tube is a little smaller diameter but fits well enough and is not noticeable in the stock.  You could also glass bed the stock for an even tighter fit, but I did not find it necessary.  Just make sure you have an even fit in the rear stock that does not rock back and forth when you tighten it down.

[bantam5s]

  Thanks David,  I did not drill a hole in the stock for the rear screw.  I just fastened the trigger pack to the tube with a short screw in back.   If you use a 2260 stock it is inlet for the trigger pack snugly at the back and the lug at the front holds securely.  The 1377 type tube is a little smaller diameter but fits well enough and is not noticeable in the stock.  You could also glass bed the stock for an even tighter fit, but I did not find it necessary.  Just make sure you have an even fit in the rear stock that does not rock back and forth when you tighten it down.

Thanks for the Info.
I used a 2260 stock on my build, I just need to start fresh with a new stock as I messed this one up a bit.

Thinking about it I believe one reason the lug makes things better is probably because the stock screw is not actually tightening down to the valve but the lug.
With some blue thread lock on the lug I suppose it'll tighten securely and the stock screw can tighten as much as it needs to into the lug.

[Hoosier Daddy]

Just an old build of mine I thought may interest you.
https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=153108.0

But alas...Lego guns never seem to stay the same. Here is what it looks like now.

[melvin]

Love it. In both configurations

[Tweaker]

Great build and craftsmanship, Ive been wanting to make something like this too but have yet to find a 2260 trigger group and stock on sale, maybe crosman carries them for order?

[YEMX]

Great build and craftsmanship, Ive been wanting to make something like this too but have yet to find a 2260 trigger group and stock on sale, maybe crosman carries them for order?

Crosman sure does- but download a Disco parts diagram (or a Maxi), and write down all the individual parts you'll need for the trigger group.  It's tedious, but it's by far the cheapest way to go- The mark up at most of the parts dealers is pretty high.  Example: 13xx .22 barrel I believe was $10 from crosman.  Same barrel from a parts dealer is close to $30 plus shipping    Just make sure to have all the part numbers on hand when you call.  I've asked, and they do not sell a 2260 trigger group as an assembly.  I could have sworn they did years back.

[melvin]

Great build and craftsmanship, Ive been wanting to make something like this too but have yet to find a 2260 trigger group and stock on sale, maybe crosman carries them for order?

You could buy a 2260 from Crosman with a coupon code I think AGNATION works. That will get the cost down and all the parts you need.

YEMXs advise is solid. If your trying to get a stock however it seems so worth it just to get a 2260 for 100ish

Thankyou for the kind words. I’m excited to finish this thing up.

[Tweaker]

Crosman sure does- but download a Disco parts diagram (or a Maxi), and write down all the individual parts you'll need for the trigger group.  It's tedious, but it's by far the cheapest way to go- The mark up at most of the parts dealers is pretty high.  Example: 13xx .22 barrel I believe was $10 from crosman.  Same barrel from a parts dealer is close to $30 plus shipping    Just make sure to have all the part numbers on hand when you call.  I've asked, and they do not sell a 2260 trigger group as an assembly.  I could have sworn they did years back.

Alright yes good idea , I know what you mean about the dealer price markups it always confused me too (since they arent custom parts or anything).