1377 wood and steel rifle build with tootsie roll forearm

[egillman]

Very nice.  I like it.

[melvin]

Lookin Good Melvin!
 Glad I found this build thread.

Thanks. I was hoping you would stumble across it.

[melvin]

Thank you everyone for the kind words.

I ordered tru oil and I’m gonna start finishing this thing ASAP.

Any advice on the finish work would be greatly appreciated.

I ordered my .177 barrel from Crosman and a Williams peep from Alchemy, some other little odds and ends. I’m excited to get this thing straitened out.

[Hoosier Daddy]

Tru-oil: use a lint free cloth (old T-shirt) put it on you finger over the bottle and tip it once or twice to get it wet.
Rub that (burnish) into a small area 6" x 6" until you feel the heat. (YOU WILL). Then repeat onto the next section of similar size, slightly over lapping.
Once the entire piece is done let it set until dry. (~4 hours depending on temp and humidity)
Then scuff with 0000 steel wool, clean with compressed air or a different cloth, and repeat the process.
The next time, overlap in a different area.
4 coats minimum.. will still leave a satin finish with grain evident to the touch.
6 coats fills the grain with a luster.
10 coats leaves a glass like shine.
 If you want satin finish, rub it lightly with the 0000 steel wool once completely cured (24 hours).

[bantam5s]

Pretty cool.
Do I see a threaded stud sticking out of the tube there on your gun ?
If so how is it attached ?

I had to add a second hole through the stock behind the trigger guard for a screw there because those few threads in the valve are not enough.

A threaded stud attached to the tube like you'll find on any traditional American pumper ever has ( aside from a clamb shell receiver) will solve all of these issues.

Anyways at this point my gun is down as I need to start over with the stock because of a few issues with stock mounting.

Thankyou.

The threaded stud? Are you referring to the thing sticking out on the back end of the main tube?  If so that’s just a power adjuster.  ( a hacked up one)


Yes the action needs anchoring at the rear of the tube. Because this stock isn’t a Crosman stock there is some meat missing on the stock back where I would typically drill for the anchor.

I made a bracket from a piece of steel that compensated for that. Opposed to adding more material to the stock and drilling.

Here’s a pic

I'm talking just behind the forearm.
This is what I did with a 1300kt and 2260 parts.

The rear stock screw did not work out, and I'm thinking a threaded stud welded up front would work out perfectly.
Just like any dan, benji, or traditional Crosman the stock would just be attached with one screw or nut .
The two screws for the trigger unit would not go through the stock.

[melvin]

Pretty cool.
Do I see a threaded stud sticking out of the tube there on your gun ?
If so how is it attached ?

I had to add a second hole through the stock behind the trigger guard for a screw there because those few threads in the valve are not enough.

A threaded stud attached to the tube like you'll find on any traditional American pumper ever has ( aside from a clamb shell receiver) will solve all of these issues.

Anyways at this point my gun is down as I need to start over with the stock because of a few issues with stock mounting.

Thankyou.

The threaded stud? Are you referring to the thing sticking out on the back end of the main tube?  If so that’s just a power adjuster.  ( a hacked up one)


Yes the action needs anchoring at the rear of the tube. Because this stock isn’t a Crosman stock there is some meat missing on the stock back where I would typically drill for the anchor.

I made a bracket from a piece of steel that compensated for that. Opposed to adding more material to the stock and drilling.

Here’s a pic

I'm talking just behind the forearm.
This is what I did with a 1300kt and 2260 parts.

The rear stock screw did not work out, and I'm thinking a threaded stud welded up front would work out perfectly.
Just like any dan, benji, or traditional Crosman the stock would just be attached with one screw or nut .
The two screws for the trigger unit would not go through the stock.

I think that a welded stud for a build like this is a great idea. Those old Dans don’t feel loose at all. If you decide to go that route I would like to see how you achieve it.  I like to hold onto good ideas from others for future builds.

Have you seen airgunsnirvana’s build on YouTube?  He did a 1322 in a disco stock. Not a super clean job on the wood but a decent job over all. It’s a good baseline before tackling this project.

[melvin]

Tru-oil: use a lint free cloth (old T-shirt) put it on you finger over the bottle and tip it once or twice to get it wet.
Rub that (burnish) into a small area 6" x 6" until you feel the heat. (YOU WILL). Then repeat onto the next section of similar size, slightly over lapping.
Once the entire piece is done let it set until dry. (~4 hours depending on temp and humidity)
Then scuff with 0000 steel wool, clean with compressed air or a different cloth, and repeat the process.
The next time, overlap in a different area.
4 coats minimum.. will still leave a satin finish with grain evident to the touch.
6 coats fills the grain with a luster.
10 coats leaves a glass like shine.
 If you want satin finish, rub it lightly with the 0000 steel wool once completely cured (24 hours).

I saved a screenshot of this Scott. Gonna use it as directions while finishing. Thanks.

[bantam5s]

Pretty cool.
Do I see a threaded stud sticking out of the tube there on your gun ?
If so how is it attached ?

I had to add a second hole through the stock behind the trigger guard for a screw there because those few threads in the valve are not enough.

A threaded stud attached to the tube like you'll find on any traditional American pumper ever has ( aside from a clamb shell receiver) will solve all of these issues.

Anyways at this point my gun is down as I need to start over with the stock because of a few issues with stock mounting.

Thankyou.

The threaded stud? Are you referring to the thing sticking out on the back end of the main tube?  If so that’s just a power adjuster.  ( a hacked up one)


Yes the action needs anchoring at the rear of the tube. Because this stock isn’t a Crosman stock there is some meat missing on the stock back where I would typically drill for the anchor.

I made a bracket from a piece of steel that compensated for that. Opposed to adding more material to the stock and drilling.

Here’s a pic

I'm talking just behind the forearm.
This is what I did with a 1300kt and 2260 parts.

The rear stock screw did not work out, and I'm thinking a threaded stud welded up front would work out perfectly.
Just like any dan, benji, or traditional Crosman the stock would just be attached with one screw or nut .
The two screws for the trigger unit would not go through the stock.

I think that a welded stud for a build like this is a great idea. Those old Dans don’t feel loose at all. If you decide to go that route I would like to see how you achieve it.  I like to hold onto good ideas from others for future builds.

Have you seen airgunsnirvana’s build on YouTube?  He did a 1322 in a disco stock. Not a super clean job on the wood but a decent job over all. It’s a good baseline before tackling this project.

I have.

Btw I forgot the picture of my gun.


A while back I was going to make my own stock but too many things went wrong.
When I go to redo it I will buy another 2260 stock because I have thought about it a lot and realized that I actually can get what I want out of it with some careful shaping.

My idea for the threaded stud is probably going to be a threaded collar ground to fit to the tube.
Welding is not something I can do, but my uncle can if he has his shop setup at his new house.
I don't believe theres room for one that bolts through the tube.

[YEMX]

Are y'all not using the stock mounting lug with the 2260 trigger guard?  Does it not fit? 

[bantam5s]

Are y'all not using the stock mounting lug with the 2260 trigger guard?  Does it not fit?

What stock mounting lug ?
does it screw into the valve where the normal front screw would , or does it have to do with that extra hole in the trigger assembly?

[YEMX]

The stock mounting lug that a Disco (or 2260) uses should thread into the same hole that a standard pistol grip front screw goes into-

Front scew hole for original trigger group:


2260 front screw hole lines up w/hole in 13xx tube:


Stock lug, Crosman PN:


Stock lug goes through front screw hole in 2260 trigger:


Threaded hole in 13xx valve:


Stock lug threads into 13xx valve:


Pretend the valve is in the tube:


Then use a Disco/2260 stock screw in the stock lug to secure the stock to the gun...  Sorry it took me a while to respond- I had to go take pictures, save them to imgur and then type this up... 

So again, are y'all not using the stock mounting lug?

[bantam5s]

Yeah we're not using it because those threads in the valve are not enough for a pumper with a stock like this.

[YEMX]

What do you mean "not enough"?  It securely holds the pistol grip fine.  I just grab the top of the gun around the breech when I pump.  I don't hold the stock while pumping. 

[melvin]

I’ve been using the stock lug. I put little thought into it anchoring the valve. (I feel a little dumb). 

:/

[melvin]

Pinning the valve would remedy this.

[bantam5s]

What do you mean "not enough"?  It securely holds the pistol grip fine.  I just grab the top of the gun around the breech when I pump.  I don't hold the stock while pumping.

I usually hold my guns by the receivers well ,  but without that rear screw I just dont trust it
With the pistol grip you also have that rear screw.
With a traditional rifle build like this the issue is getting the rear hole just right when theres not a lot of wood right behind the trigger guard slot, having a lug welded to the tube would solve this.


If there were more threads in the valve and the valve was a harder material like brass I think that the standard Crosman stock lug might be enough.

[YEMX]

I usually hold my guns by the receivers well ,  but without that rear screw I just dont trust it
With the pistol grip you also have that rear screw.
With a traditional rifle build like this the issue is getting the rear hole just right when theres not a lot of wood right behind the trigger guard slot, having a lug welded to the tube would solve this.


If there were more threads in the valve and the valve was a harder material like brass I think that the standard Crosman stock lug might be enough.

Ah, gotcha!!  I figured that was it.  I may re-make the valve in brass then.  I definitely don't want to drill a 2nd hole.  I tried doing that on my Rapid Mk2 stock project, and my .30 Condor stock project.  Both failed miserably...  I'd rather make a new valve body than drill a 2nd hole 

[The_Bourbonator]

That stock is awesome! Did you have to cut off the handle to get it like that? Also how easy is it to pop the stock off? I think it would be great to have something you could break down without tools and throw it in a backpack, sort of like a survival rifle.

[Van]

What do you mean "not enough"?  It securely holds the pistol grip fine.  I just grab the top of the gun around the breech when I pump.  I don't hold the stock while pumping.

   I used the 2260 stock lug on both my pumper builds and they have held up for several years of pumping as YEMX describes.  The top one is on a 2200 tube with a stock I made from a blank.  The bottom is a 2260 stock (old style) on a 1377. One is a brass flat top valve and the other is an aluminum flat top valve.  There has been no difference between the two.  Both are as tight as day one after years of pumping.  I  hold by the pistol grip when pumping with a scope.  They are easy on pumping not hard like a 392.  I think that's why they hold up well with this mount lug.

[avator]

Wait.... the Sheridan only uses one screw to secure the stock and does it not also secure the valve?
Or maybe I'm mistaken and it's been too long since I serviced my Dans.... lol