Yong Heng compressor ... I just bought 1 ...

[Airnut]

Paul
I to have read about lot of failures with these compressors regardless of what oil they were using. Thats why there is so much controversy over this subject.

Maybe I'm just stating the obvious, but the tolerances on the Yong Heng compressors - especially the YH clones - aren't exactly the tightest, and probably vary a bit.

One person runs Chemlube 751 exclusively but is unlucky and has a loose tolerance somewhere critical and winds up with a broke compressor. Another runs motor oil or hydraulic oil, but lucked out and their YH has good, tight tolerances and lasts a long time.

I'd wager that changing the oil often and keeping the cylinder cool counts for quite a lot, but given tolerances on these things even that's no guarantee.

I agree with you 100%

[Dan H]

Remember the commercial years ago? Motor oil is motor oil. 

And like most commercials, BS designed to get your business. LOL Not provide a superior product.

NO way Mike its all the same !  stuff   .. it absolutely has nothing to do with what oil you run !  any cheaper than dirt recycled oil will lube this thing just fine !    … its like   whats all this huff about running super high quality diester oils ?  you know Mike I bet those guys at NUVAIR COMPRESSOR AND NORTHSHORE COMPRESSOR TECH GUY'S haven't the slightest clue as to what they are talking about ,.. just trying to make more money off us with their SNAKE OIL'S ...yeah that's it …

 infact I got some real old chain lube for my chain saw !  ...I think I will just use that stuff right there and save myself some BIG MONEY ! .. or hey I gotta better IDEA !    I will get some used motor oil that's in a jug from 1 of our cars that has like 10,000 miles on it ,and after all  it was synthetic it never wears out ,and after all it's FREE !    and 1 more thing I am going to do just to make sure !  ...  filter it with and old rag !  I found out about that 1 in a book called " BACK YARD TRICKS FOR IDIOTS "   in chapter 2 = never have to buy oil again ! 

NOW  you guys can " THANK ME VERY MUCH " for saving you all those hard earned COVID 19 STIMULUS DOLLARS ! …. 

I 100% agree ! 

[E30_S50]

Here's what I have been using. When I got my compressor, this is what everyone was saying to use. Seems to work ok but I swap it often and run the compressor pretty cool.

[Dan H]

SYNTHETIC DIESTER OILS ;

They’re specifically designed to give equipment high-quality protection, even when it’s operating in conditions where standard mineral-oil products do not meet expectations. Compared to mineral oils, synthetic diester oil greatly reduces fire hazards and the potential for explosion. Also, due to its higher ignition temperature, it will greatly improve overall safety and performance. Diester oils are commonly recommended and approved by a variety of large compressor manufacturing companies.
We provide a variety of synthetic diester oils that can be used for all types of reciprocating compressors, both new and older models, and for applications for rotary vanes and screws.
There are many general uses that all grades of diester oil can fulfill:
It stays in a fluid state in low-temperature settings.
The operating temperature can remain low due to its high-quality thermal conductivity.
It has a roughly 20% lower friction coefficient.
It’s very stabile in high-temperature settings and won’t disassociate from stress.
It won’t shear during extreme stress or while it’s subjected to heavy loads due to its high mechanical stress resistance.
It’s better for metal wetting due to its overall reduction in metal to metal wear-polar properties.
It has better rust and corrosion resistance due to its high-quality demulsibility characteristics, so moisture will separate readily.
It’s also much more energy efficient.
Diester oil is specifically designed to be used as a cylinder lubricant in a crankcase and can be used with virtually all types of elastomers that are commonly used in pumps and compressors, including crankcase paint.

[Dan H]

CHEMLUBE PRODUCT DATA PAGE …

CHEMLUBE 215, 229, 230, 501, 751, and 822 DIESTER-BASED COMPRESSOR LUBRICANTS
 
APPLICATIONS:
 
The Chemlube® diester-based series are fully synthetic compressor oils specially formulated with premium synthetic ester base fluids for use in a wide variety of air compressors.   Chemlube 215, 229, and 230 are designed from diester base oils for rotary screw, rotary vane and reciprocating compressors offering a typical service life of 8,000 hours under good operating conditions. Chemlube 501 and 751 are designed from diester base oils for reciprocating compressors and are recommended for high pressure air compressors.
 
Chemlube 822 is a heavier weight formula for use where an ISO 220 is required.
 
Chemlube 501 and 751 are recommended for reciprocating compressors and vacuum pumps using the following gases:
 
        Air                                     Ethylene                 Methane                                 Propane         Butadiene                         Natural Gas            Synthesis Gas                       Carbon Monoxide         Carbon Dioxide (dry)        Helium                    Hydrogen Sulfide (dry)          Nitrogen                                   Furnace (crack) Gas        Hydrogen                Sulphur Hexafluoride
 
Nominal Operating Range is -15°C to 230°C (5°F to 445°F) 
 
TYPICAL INDUSTRIALAPPLICATIONS:
 
 Rotary Screw Compressors  Rotary Vane Compressors  Centrifugal Compressors  Reciprocating Compressors
 High Pressure Air Compressors  Vacuum Pumps  Gear Boxes  Chains
 
PERFORMANCE BENEFITS:
 
 Outstanding thermal and oxidative stability  Will not varnish or form carbon deposits  Wide operating temperature range  Built in detergency action  Extended drain intervals reduces oil disposal, thus increasing cost effectiveness  Caution:  May affect some paint finishes, plastics and seals  USDA H-2 authorized
 
Chemlube 215 carries the NSN #9150-01-068-0676 (quarts).  Chemlube 501 carries the NSN #9150-01-052-7562 (gallons); NSN #9150-01-025-8649 (pails); NSN #9150-01-240-4950 (drums

[Long_Gun_Dallas]

Still waiting for the corena s2 p 150 to arrive.  Got my 5ft copper coil, though.  I wanted to make 2 coils, one for input and one for output, but I didn't feel comfortable bending it anymore than I did alrwady, so it is on the stage 2 cylinder output.  It's attached on the bottom out of sight.  Also should see some flow from the factory fan here.  🙂

[PBguns]

I bought my YH about a year ago for $213. Been working like a champ since.

[Dan H]

Well look what the the FEDEX guy dropped off at my house !    ...now I just have to wait for the longer gold high pressure filter to come in and were ready to rock with the Yong Yeng  !  with Nuvair -chemelube oil  751   

I have a much larger high volume water pump /distilled water , and anti freeze plus redline water wetter , and I already had the copper tubing coil that will sit in a mid size ice chest with cold water created by 2 frozen gallon jugs ,and cloth material to wet and wrap around the hot compressor air tubes … 

[Long_Gun_Dallas]

That setup is gona run super cool!!    I know with combustion engines there is such a thing as too cool.....  No idea if that applies to compressors.

[OleTomCat]

Too cool isn't an issue with these compressors they make a tremendous amount of heat....

[Dan H]

That setup is gona run super cool!!    I know with combustion engines there is such a thing as too cool.....  No idea if that applies to compressors.

I am kinda going by what this guy was saying that he has ran his Yong Heng for up to 48 minutes with no issues usually never getting above 93 degrees I think he said ,and the max he has run this way was 103 degrees …

[Dan H]

It looks like Tuesday I will finally get my long gold filter so I can run this  compressor … I ordered it about 2 weeks ago and they never sent it out , now tracking is finally showing it go  threw the fedex system on its way …   

I also ordered another one from , Amazon  so I will have 2 of them , I think I will use one on the high pressure side of my shoebox compressor .. or make a twin filter set up to run either one on better yet … 

[nikomic]

I have been using mine for 2+ years now so far so good 

[T3PRanch]

I took the gold filter housing (Tuxing) and machined the cap so it would accept a standard Filtertechs Lawrence Factor Filter Cartridge. Very happy with the performance and the removal of any oil smell from the output product.

[Fate]

Kinda late to this party but wanted to mention what I filled my YH with that I got a few days ago. Let it run a bit like the book says... which, although in Engrish, is about as helpful as Chinese except for the parts list (which is not fully inclusive) and exploded diagrams (which are also not exactly like the YH I have). If it weren't for this and similar threads on GTA I'd still be trying to figure out how to set up and run this pump.

After I'd started it, run it for a couple minutes several times I kept noting the fill hose leaked at the quick connect output, and the PSI meter wouldn't budge. Seems whatever check valve is in there is leaking... or do they all? Or, are they supposed to be connected to a rifle or other fill device first? Not knowing nor having heard, after worrying about it for a few hours I decided to see if it would fill my new Synrod. Hooked the quick connect properly after a couple of trys and closed the drain valve... and lo and behold the PSI meter began to quickly climb as did the pressure gauge on the gun. Further, they both agreed, which surprised me. It took almost no time before the gun had hit 3000 psi (as did the YH meter) so I popped the QC off, opened the valves, and in a few seconds shut it down. The temp meter indicated 61C. Too high I though but my water bucket's water also wasn't cold, just room temp. I was just glad to have my gun fully filled.

Now, to the point of this post. My choice of lubricant for the YH's crankcase.

I'm using AMSoil Synthetic ATF. Had 2.5 gallon container of it left over from a performance transmission build a few years back and checked into the possibility of using it since I am aware that ATF is, in fact, an excellent hydraulic fluid, and synthetic AMSoil is the best. Everything I read confirmed it as an excellent fluid for this (and far more stressed) application. So in it went. No worries here. Am not asking if it's ok. Just letting the thread know there are alternatives to what has seemed to be a finite choice among those who have posted their opinions and use.

If ATF has been mentioned before I missed it. I've searched for weeks on GTA and the net for information about this pump and have yet to see it mentioned. If it's well known... what can I say. I missed it and via this post I'm just informing that I'm yet another YH owner who uses it.

YMMV. Time will tell. Et cetera.

PS
I'm loving this gun! It's been on order for some time and this is my first PCP, a new Marauder with synthetic stock, LW barrel, and Picatinny rail. It's much lighter than I was expecting, and not as big. It's incredibly quiet. Put a scope on and quickly sighted it in, and I'll have to shoot at much farther range to determine its accuracy because at 10 meters (my indoor "range") all it shoots is one hole, just like the target that came with it. I'm stoked to say it mildly.

[Fate]

Edit/update to my last post regarding "leaking" QC... it doesn't have a valve, does it. LOL Of course air comes out because it's open.

I took the thing apart to find that out. Learning curve is steep right now.

[tracker1955]

Fate, be sure to open the bleed valve on the compressor before turning the compressor off or removing the quick connect, otherwise, the fill hose will still be pressurized and besides the possibility of injury, you could blow the oring out of the quick connect. 

[Fate]

Thanks Tom. I didn’t know that about blowing the QC O-ring, and will make sure to remember that from now on. I can see me making that mistake never knowing the consequences.

So far I do have the water pump running and fan on before I turn the pump on, and connect to the gun before closing the valves... but have just popped the quick connect off after opening the valves again. Pump off shortly thereafter leaving the fan and water run. With only three fills under my belt, however, and not knowing what could happen, blowing an O-ring would likely have happened somewhere down the road. Thanks again.

Although I never expected to get a YH pump I’ve read everything about it for a long time. Thankfully there is a lot of info posted about it. That said, actually having one always reveals there are some things you have to learn for yourself.

Mine’s all set up and using it a routine now, although there are some things I’ll be upgrading and changing as time and parts arrivals allow. For now I’m just thrilled with the ease and speed I can fill my new gun. I’d originally ordered a Hill manual pump but found by reading I don’t weigh enough to use it so I got the Y H instead... for less than $30 more than the Hill and feel like an idiot for even considering the Hill now.

[Reidy]

Still waiting for the corena s2 p 150 to arrive.  Got my 5ft copper coil, though.  I wanted to make 2 coils, one for input and one for output, but I didn't feel comfortable bending it anymore than I did alrwady, so it is on the stage 2 cylinder output.  It's attached on the bottom out of sight.  Also should see some flow from the factory fan here.  🙂

I was trying to think of a way to cool the air a little before it goes back to my 5 gal bucket and all I was coming up with was a water cooler for welding torches.  I have a big coil of nickel-copper alloy break line I can wrap up like you did here and run a small fan over it.   

I also have a bottle of Hy-per Cool in there to increase the heat transfer.

https://www.autozone.com/antifreeze-radiator-additives-and-windshield-wash-fluid/radiator-additives-and-flush/hy-per-lube-super-coolant-16oz/416298_0_0

[Nerka]

I have had my YH compressor for a week now, I will use it for first time tomorrow, this thred has  been a wealth of information , after I fill my guns I will fill my great white iI think it is 92cf?, but I will do it in stages over a few days, I di relize it is not designed for heavy industrial. Will post after first usave.