GTA
Airguns by Make and Model => Pinty Airguns => Topic started by: avator on February 20, 2025, 03:04:02 PM
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I caved to the enablers and ordered one of the recent offerings from Pinty Scopes.
My choice, of the 3 offerings, was the Tactical. The other 2 are the Bullpup and the more traditional offerings.
I used the code "BLACK20" and got a $42 discount bringing the total to $238 and change to my door.
I recently became aware of the code "GTA" which will give our members a $40 savings.
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Almost instantly I got confirmation of my order. My method of payment was PayPal.
Soon after I got a FedEx tracking number. The next day tracking showed movement from Ontario, CA through Chino, CA with an eta of Tuesday 2/25 here in lower Alabama.
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I'll use this thread to post my experience with the gun.
Link...
https://pintydevices.com/products/pcp-pellet-gun-air-rifle-with-850-fps-velocity-picatinny-rail
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Here is an interesting tidbit....
Notice anything special in the pic below?
Yep, that is a Huben Power Cricket regulator rebuild kit.
Nick at Huben Power confirmed that a batch of Huben Power Cricket regulators were sold to an Airgun manufacturing factory last year and Pinty devoped them into the guns we have here.
https://shop.hubenpower.com/products/cricket-max-ath-regulator
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Following...
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Does the coverage of the top hat seem right.. I think the breech slide would cover it,, And the usually hole in the box from the bolt handle.. Also the slack of the bolt from the cocking bolt.. I moves quite a bit when in the down position as you can see in the photo.. Let me know what you think compared to you..
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It looks normal. Needs room to push top hat down once fired . If your bolt seems to stick when cocking you can remove barrel assembly and spin it in a drill with fine sand paper on thin area of barrel where it slides. Mine was like grooved like a record but after light sanding and polishing it is smooth.
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This is an area that I have seen others take issue with. I plan to have a good look once my gun gets here. I have some ideas that involve shimming it for better alignment but I won't know until I have the gun in hand.
Another area that I have seen complaints on is, in some case, heavy trigger pull weight. There is at least one guy that has successfully addressed that and it seems not all guns have the same issue. Again, I'll have to see what I have when it arrives.
But in the meantime, please, feel free to post your findings and fixes.
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From what I read these guns have great potential with a bit of fine tuning to address minor issues but for the price I think they are a great bargain.
Maybe not an "out of the box" candidate for a first timer.
I can see there being many returned guns from folks that don't want to, or can't deal with minor fixes.
Kinda like the FD-PCP "tinkerer's dream gun".
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I also don't see much support coming from Pinty other than replacement with another gun with the same issues, partial refund to accept the gun as it is or full refund. I don't see any support coming from Pinty as far as parts however, some parts are exchangeable with the Air Force guns.
I think potential buyers should understand and accept that or just stay away from them.
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I truly hope I am way out in left field on this.
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I truly hope I am way out in left field on this.
Here's an address (not sure if it will take you there)
that might be of interest to the correction of bolt clearance issues
https://www.airgunnation.com/attachments/17400977441507880442388721789020-jpg.540543/
Hope this helps if need be
Bill
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I truly hope I am way out in left field on this.
Here's an address (not sure if it will take you there)
that might be of interest to the correction of bolt clearance issues
https://www.airgunnation.com/attachments/17400977441507880442388721789020-jpg.540543/
Hope this helps if need be
Bill
Saw that and replied.
Thanks
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It looks normal. Needs room to push top hat down once fired . If your bolt seems to stick when cocking you can remove barrel assembly and spin it in a drill with fine sand paper on thin area of barrel where it slides. Mine was like grooved like a record but after light sanding and polishing it is smooth.
Hmmm... maybe a little sanding will go a long way with this gun
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I plan on using a wheel cylinder 3 finger hone to hone and smooth inside of tube where hammer and cocking lever ride. Then install light lubrication for metal to metal contact to try to smooth it even more.
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I'm sure I'll find out soon enough when my gun arrives but I have a question for you guys that already have the gun.
I was watching Back Road's (James) video and I saw him loading the pellets. At one point he had a bit of trouble putting a pellet in. Is anyone else having problems with the way the pellets load? I got sausage fingers thanks to my Dad and I have a bit of a problem loading pellets in an underlever gun style breech. I mean, I can get it done but it's a bit fiddly.
Is there a trick to making it easy?
I mostly bench shoot and I don't want to have to take the gun off the bench and point it downward for gravity to help load a pellet for every shot. It don't look like I could get the right angle to use a pellet pen either.
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I'm sure I'll find out soon enough when my gun arrives but I have a question for you guys that already have the gun.
I was watching Back Road's (James) video and I saw him loading the pellets. At one point he had a bit of trouble putting a pellet in. Is anyone else having problems with the way the pellets load? I got sausage fingers thanks to my Dad and I have a bit of a problem loading pellets in an underlever gun style breech. I mean, I can get it done but it's a bit fiddly.
Is there a trick to making it easy?
I mostly bench shoot and I don't want to have to take the gun off the bench and point it downward for gravity to help load a pellet for every shot. It don't look like I could get the right angle to use a pellet pen either.
My issue was arthritic wrist, it was having mobility issues that day.. Loads just like any Airforce rifle I have.
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I don't have any experience with the Air Force guns so I can't relate but like I said... it puts me in mind of loading an underlever fixed barrel gun. Only difference is that it don't look like it has the potential to bite your finger off like those "Foo man chew" guns. :-\
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Tactical guy now….lol
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remove barrel assembly and spin it in a drill with fine sand paper on thin area of barrel where it slides.
My drills have a maximum 1/2" drill bit. Is the muzzle end of this P-Force 14mm ( .55 inch )
Mine is out-for-delivery right now.
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A big shout out to THammer over on the AGN for allowing me to copy pics of his trigger sear mod to bring to this thread and share.
First off is the way the sear is from the factory...
And a comparison of before and after.
And a couple profiles of the finished sear layered on top of the factory.
This mod greatly reduces and smooths the trigger pull.
Be mindful, this mod will slightly increase the travel but I think he has a plan to address that too. I will share as I get more info.
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@Robert 5mm---Yes the barrel end is 14mm so did not fit in drill. I put loading end in drill about 3/8 turned and smoothed thin end then by hand finished last 3/8.
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It actually reduces travel.
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It actually reduces travel.
Oh ok, I must have read that wrong... anyways, thanks for sharing.
And feel free to add anything here you like.
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Turning down an AF barrel section just from the loading end up to where the first bushing would go on the factory barrel then boring the bushings to fit the AF OD allows for an Actual AF barrel to be fit.
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.22 or .25?
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.22 or .25?
That's still .22. I'm not sure the OD of the reduced section of the barrel in. 25 but the cocking section could easily be modified to accept either. I will likely convert mine to .177 for slugs.
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LOL... you're gonna make me want to start going to bed early and get up late so Tuesday comes faster.. ;)
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LOL... you're gonna make me want to start going to bed early and get up late so Tuesday comes faster.. ;)
We call that time travelling here.
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remove barrel assembly and spin it in a drill with fine sand paper on thin area of barrel where it slides.
My drills have a maximum 1/2" drill bit. Is the muzzle end of this P-Force 14mm ( .55 inch )
Mine is out-for-delivery right now.
Just got mine, hard to cock, but closes OK.
Took off front grip spring dropped out, I think it goes in hole, then took off barrel.
No grooves on thinner front on barrel, so no need to spin and sand.
Now to put it back together, air up and shoot a few.
Now later edit:
Pushed a couple pellets thru barrel - I do not feel any choke.
Put it back together - aired to 3000psi ( 20 MPA = 2900 psi )
Shot a few without pellets - fairly loud in my garage.
Switched to a 14mm longer 3D printed suppressor - alot quieter.
Now let it sit over night at 18 MPA
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Well mine finally came, after getting lost in the vapor of Fedup !!! Fire a couple and then dismantled it .. The sear is on the way to Troy and I am now degreasing it.. I will dry lube it.. UTG compact coming..
Looks like fun...
(cosmic) Ray
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Depending on how my trigger is, I may need to schedule an appointment for it with Troy as well.
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The tank on my P-Force was not even hand tight with the two gauges being level.
So I hand tightened the tank and rotated the butt stock to vertical, but the gauges are now not level.
How do you rotate the regulator or just the gauges ( and fill port ) back to level without loosening the tank ?
Maybe loosen regulator from gun frame ? and not M18 tank ?
The Long 3D printed suppressor is ALOT quieter than the short one that comes on the P-Force.
I downloaded it from Thingiverse and printed with PETG filament.
Here is a picture and name if you want to download the .STL file ( also Short version )
( I do not know if I legally can post the .STL file, so you have to get from Thingiverse ( it is free ).
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@Robert 5mm there is a grub screw that holds the retaining collar that the tank/regulator screw into. Loosen grub screw to turn retainer to a position a tighten grub screw when you tighten regulator to level it. Hope this helps. I know because I removed retainer to get cocking lever out before I knew it will come out other end. Took me a couple times to get it reset. It should also have a mark from the grub screw you can set back where it was.
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Looks like that silencer has counter clockwise threads did it work on the P-FORCE ?
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Looks like that silencer has counter clockwise threads did it work on the P-FORCE ?
Yes, it is the correct thread but tight on the suppressor, I did chase the thread with a M14x1 male tap.
The CCW thread is misleading, the CCW is if you are on the gun end and the suppressor screws CCW onto the barrel.
If you are on the muzzle end the suppressor screws on CW, just like a nut onto a bolt.
( I do not have a link for it - just go to Thingiverse and search for DX Silencer )
Thanks for the info on the grub screw. ( but I cannot find it )
There is a thread ( with Huben name on it ) inside the frame where the regulator screws into.
But is is not like the Air Force Spin Loc nut - that has a Spin Loc wrench.
And it does rotate a small amount - enough so I did get the gauges level.
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The tank on my P-Force was not even hand tight with the two gauges being level.
So I hand tightened the tank and rotated the butt stock to vertical, but the gauges are now not level.
How do you rotate the regulator or just the gauges ( and fill port ) back to level without loosening the tank ?
Maybe loosen regulator from gun frame ? and not M18 tank ?
The Long 3D printed suppressor is ALOT quieter than the short one that comes on the P-Force.
I downloaded it from Thingiverse and printed with PETG filament.
Here is a picture and name if you want to download the .STL file ( also Short version )
( I do not know if I legally can post the .STL file, so you have to get from Thingiverse ( it is free ).
The P-Force moderator seems to be very very short, and the volume is not enough to make it quiet
I remember printing the moderator you posted.
This is the link:
https://www.printables.com/model/1015678-air-gun-silencer-dx-m14ccw
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YouTube review for those who haven’t seen it (no affiliation)
https://youtu.be/8Ab5criHAXg
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So, what do y'all think about what he said about the tank stamp reading 4500 psi max fill? Would you go for it or do you think that the 3600 max recommended should be heeded?
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I think he overlooked the possibility of things like a burst disc somewhere in the rifle, the main air tank may be rated higher but the rifle's other parts might object, and maybe the poppet would split under that sort of pressure...
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@Robert 5mm the grub screw is under the grip. You must unscrew the grip to access the grub screw.
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I think he overlooked the possibility of things like a burst disc somewhere in the rifle, the main air tank may be rated higher but the rifle's other parts might object, and maybe the poppet would split under that sort of pressure...
Pretty much what I was thinking.
Edit... and we would be exactly right. The Huben Power Cricket is rated at 3600 psi.
https://shop.hubenpower.com/products/huben-power-cricket-regulator
... and check that out... almost half the cost of this gun is the value of the regulator. ;D
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Sorry, I am turned off after watching this video...
I will continue to save my coin for another TRUE Airforce Talon / Condor rifle to match my Texan.
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Sorry, I am turned off after watching this video...
I will continue to save my coin for another TRUE Airforce Talon / Condor rifle to match my Texan.
That's cool... those of us who are showing interest in this gun are already aware of the issues he pointed out and are willing to accept them. There are also simple fixes already in the works for them.
Like I said before... this gun puts me in mind of the FD-PCP tinkerer's dream gun and if you are not a tinkerer and prefer out of box perfection then this may not be the gun for you. But several of us see the potential that is there and see some good things in the future. Troy Hammer and a couple others are already a good ways down that road.
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Difference of cheap vs pricey, cheap I will fix it myself, pricey I send it in and get my monies worth out of the warranty ;)
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Difference of cheap vs pricey, cheap I will fix it myself, pricey I send it in and get my monies worth out of the warranty ;)
LOL... I don't have that option because all I do is cheap. :o But that's all good because half the fun of this for me is tinkering. I'm afraid if I bought a gun that was absolutely perfect right out of the box and not need anything but to shoot it.. I would have half a mind to return it.
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@avator It states regulator adjust from 500-3600 psi output. Does not say if it can handle 4500 psi in as I would like to install 500cc carbon bottle. Guess that is a question for the regulator manufacturer. The gun only sees the pressure the reg is set for.
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The Huben regulators I have looked at recently, like their cricket, take 4500 psi in. Did some research recently thinking about trying on my Texan, but the plenum is too small. But 4500 tuxing bottle with huben cricket using factory valve for talon/Condor rifles was the Genesis of my looking.
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@avator It states regulator adjust from 500-3600 psi output. Does not say if it can handle 4500 psi in as I would like to install 500cc carbon bottle. Guess that is a question for the regulator manufacturer. The gun only sees the pressure the reg is set for.
yep... that was my take as well. The tank can handle 4500 but the reg. is limited to 3600. I don't see an issue with the bigger tank as long as you don't fill it past 3600. You will get more shots per fill.
I might be interested in looking at the 50cc plenum they have on the Huben Power Cricket Max reg. I wonder if it's available and can be applied to an existing Power Cricket.
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The Huben regulators I have looked at recently, like their cricket, take 4500 psi in. Did some research recently thinking about trying on my Texan, but the plenum is too small. But 4500 tuxing bottle with huben cricket using factory valve for talon/Condor rifles was the Genesis of my looking.
The Huben Power Cricket reg on this particular gun clearly states 500psi - 3600psi on the Huben site.
According to what I've watched and read, the reg is set to 2600psi output from the factory. That can be verified by your reg setting gauge on the gun. You'll have to covert MPa to psi.
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The Huben regulators I have looked at recently, like their cricket, take 4500 psi in. Did some research recently thinking about trying on my Texan, but the plenum is too small. But 4500 tuxing bottle with huben cricket using factory valve for talon/Condor rifles was the Genesis of my looking.
The Huben Power Cricket reg on this particular gun clearly states 500psi - 3600psi on the Huben site.
According to what I've watched and read, the reg is set to 2600psi output from the factory. That can be verified by your reg setting gauge on the gun. You'll have to covert MPa to psi.
Yes, 500-3600psi OUTPUT. I am saying that the input accepts up to 4500, which was the question.
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The Huben regulators I have looked at recently, like their cricket, take 4500 psi in. Did some research recently thinking about trying on my Texan, but the plenum is too small. But 4500 tuxing bottle with huben cricket using factory valve for talon/Condor rifles was the Genesis of my looking.
The Huben Power Cricket reg on this particular gun clearly states 500psi - 3600psi on the Huben site.
According to what I've watched and read, the reg is set to 2600psi output from the factory. That can be verified by your reg setting gauge on the gun. You'll have to covert MPa to psi.
Yes, 500-3600psi OUTPUT. I am saying that the input accepts up to 4500, which was the question.
Hmmm... ok, maybe that's a question for Huben.
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Making up some M14x1 to 1/2-20 for the Pinty Tactical. Only the OD is blued. Everything else is covered so didn't see the need.
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LOL... I was considering just taking the moderator off and covering the threads... I like loud guns. 8)
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Making up some M14x1 to 1/2-20 for the Pinty Tactical. Only the OD is blued. Everything else is covered so didn't see the need.
Just ordered my P-Rifle, I'm willing to order one and verify that also works/looks nice on the P-Rifle.
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Looking forward to P-Rifle observations.
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Making up some M14x1 to 1/2-20 for the Pinty Tactical. Only the OD is blued. Everything else is covered so didn't see the need.
Just ordered my P-Rifle, I'm willing to order one and verify that also works/looks nice on the P-Rifle.
I should have 10 or so made up by mid-week. $30 shipped will be the price finished, blued and tested to fit.
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Having both the P-FORCE & P-RIFLE I can confirm they are both M14 X 1 threads. The short mod on the P-FORCE fits the P-RIFLE and the protector cap on the P-RIFLE fits the P-FORCE. The P-RIFLE does have a shroud but it is empty. It is tensioned to the barrel with and adapter. The P-RIFLE barrel does have 1/2 x 20 threads as my DFL TANTO will thread right onto it without the shroud. You would have to shorten the shroud to tension it between breech and DFL MOD.
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Shooting the P-Force in my heated garage at 6 yards, so not really for any groups, just for getting used to it.
I also was shooting my Air Force Talon to compare.
I like the P-Force side bolt placement more than the Talon vertical knob.
Maybe this P-Force should be called a Pigeon, sort of after the Condor and Talon but not as refined.
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Is the optics rail on the P-Rifle polymer or metal?
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Is the optics rail on the P-Rifle polymer or metal?
Metal on the tactical, I've not touched the others but have heard they are metal as well.
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The P-RIFLE scope rail is dovetail and is metal. If you purchase the P-RIFLE remove the trigger guard-2 screws- and 1 stock mounting screw and tighten all screws. Some where only hand tight on my rifle. Does not appear to have any plastic on rifled that I can see.
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I'm reading that some with the bullpup are saying the rail is weaver instead of picatinny. Anyone find a weaver on their PForce?
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I'm reading that some with the bullpup are saying the rail is weaver instead of picatinny. Anyone find a weaver on their PForce?
Picatinny on mine
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Well that's good news.
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The P-RIFLE scope rail is dovetail and is metal. If you purchase the P-RIFLE remove the trigger guard-2 screws- and 1 stock mounting screw and tighten all screws. Some where only hand tight on my rifle. Does not appear to have any plastic on rifled that I can see.
Thanks, Richard. Have one ordered and sooner or later on the way. Thinking a 2-7 hawke vantage. Fingers crossed it will like all these cphps I have lying around and accept the rocker1 I think is .22 compatible once I have the shroud removed to expose the 1x20 threads it's covering (different than the 1x14 endcap threads).
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Sorry, I am turned off after watching this video...
I will continue to save my coin for another TRUE Airforce Talon / Condor rifle to match my Texan.
What video ?
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Sorry, I am turned off after watching this video...
I will continue to save my coin for another TRUE Airforce Talon / Condor rifle to match my Texan.
What video ?
One by Inspire Precision further up in the thread.
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Meanwhile I finally had a chance to finish shooting this target that I started shooting when doing a video, just to have something to shoot at :) I shot the top row then, and shot a couple more a few days ago, and finished today.
Single loading slows one down, but not that slow LOL 10m target holding over due to closer range.
(https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/gallery/17377-220225180816.jpeg)
https://youtu.be/jJHn4k1YnCU
Itching to give it the squirrel test :)
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Anybody know if the p-rifle also has the huben reg?
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I doubt it.. wrong configuration. And from what I read from what Nick at Huben said, they just sent a batch of the bottle regs for the tactical gun.. least that's what I gleaned from the quote.
That said, I'm not even sure if there are any available for future runs of that gun. Might be a one and done thing.
Another good question for the folks at Pinty.
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Assuming the P-Rifle is a loose copy of the Snowpeak M-16 (which I owned two of) the reg is probably not Huben, but most likely Snowpeak. Huma sells an M16 reg that I installed in one of my rifles.
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Assuming the P-Rifle is a loose copy of the Snowpeak M-16 (which I owned two of) the reg is probably not Huben, but most likely Snowpeak. Huma sells an M16 reg that I installed in one of my rifles.
Huben verified this batch has authentic Huben regs.
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Troy, I assumed that the term "P-Rifle" was referring to the non Tactical rifle, sorry if I am incorrect.
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Troy, I assumed that the term "P-Rifle" was referring to the non Tactical rifle, sorry if I am incorrect.
My fault. I just went off the thread title being about the tactical. No knowledge of the other two models.
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No worries good sir, our new naming conventions gets confusing sometime... ;D
This video shows the regulator in the Bullpup: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TylnCJrsa1A
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I didn't see the regulator in that video, but if it is similar at all to the P-35 then this video might help
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IHc0ySIR-h0]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IHc0ySIR-h0
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Hehe - in my video he did not call it a regulator, he called it a valve. He showed it completely disassembled with the washers laying next to the body.
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A big shout out to THammer over on the AGN for allowing me to copy pics of his trigger sear mod to bring to this thread and share.
First off is the way the sear is from the factory...
And a comparison of before and after.
And a couple profiles of the finished sear layered on top of the factory.
This mod greatly reduces and smooths the trigger pull.
Be mindful, this mod will slightly increase the travel but I think he has a plan to address that too. I will share as I get more info.
I took out just the sear and polished it with 500 grit then 800 grit, but did not shape it like THammer.
Just the polishing the top and end of the sear that touch the hammer did make for a smoother trigger.
The only pin I had to bump half way out was the front pin, I left the rear one in.
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So
i did some slug test this afternoon, still grogy after my nap so there is that. I had a random bag of slugs I guess to be AVS dish base .217 24 gr they were consistent 730 fps, fit the bore maybe a bit loose, not the best IMO. On to some H&N 21 gr .218 these were a tight fit as seen in the photo they clocked at 790 fps and were much more on target. I think upping the reg set point would be needed to shoot slugs over 21 grain.
I am uploading the video, but have pics to post while we wait :)
(https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/gallery/17377-230225183435.jpeg)
Bottom row 21 grain H&N .218
(https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/gallery/17377-230225183039.jpeg)
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Hmmm... maybe the baracuda variants (hunter, hextreme, match)?
Total oddball idea, I know, but apolo makes a jumbo pointed pellet with a skirt filled in and so shallow just like a crosman pellet. It shoots accurate out of my guns that like cphps, but in my guns lost too much energy cause of the weight. In this pcp though...
https://www.fieldsupply.com/airguns/ammo/apolo-jumbo-22-cal-5-5mm-pellets-tin-250.html
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I most likely will not shoot slugs out of this rifle, the Norma 17.6 gr pellets do deliver stellar accuracy and I have a bunch of them :)
I already have a Escape UL with 2 barrels that shoots .20 and .22 cal slugs, and can choose unregulated and regulated bottles. I think my range was too brightly light for a Darkside video LOL
https://youtu.be/SS2h0T4SgLc
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Those of you that haven't caught the train yet will have to spend $20 more for the ticket. I see Pinty jacked the price to 299 on the pup and tactical.
Maybe because of the partial refunds they are giving folks that are balking on the (imo) minor shortcomings.
With all the hoopla posted around these guns here, I knew exactly what I could be getting when I ordered mine. I'll be addressing those issues if I have to by following what others have already done.
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Or maybe... Pinty addressed the issues on the remaining guns already at an additional cost to them. I guess that remains to be seen.
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Added a 21" QB barrel with a loading tray. Moved the barrel further back to the valve to reduce the dead space between the pellet and valve. 13" fully functional shroud with a 1/2x20 adapter and a sub 2lb trigger.
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Pretty sweet... got any numbers yet?
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Pretty sweet... got any numbers yet?
I mailed my modified sear out. Waiting on their factory sear to get here. I'll grab #'s then.
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Pretty sweet... got any numbers yet?
I mailed my modified sear out. Waiting on their factory sear to get here. I'll grab #'s then.
LOL... such a giver.
Just a heads up... I'm going to have a look at the sear on mine when it comes in tomorrow to see if I have the tools and skills to do your shaping/smoothing to it. But if I don't feel comfortable would you be willing to extend your services?
I would be willing to wait until you receive mine before you send me yours so you wouldn't be without one for longer than it takes to do the mod. Or you could just mod mine and return it.
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Pretty sweet... got any numbers yet?
I mailed my modified sear out. Waiting on their factory sear to get here. I'll grab #'s then.
LOL... such a giver.
Just a heads up... I'm going to have a look at the sear on mine when it comes in tomorrow to see if I have the tools and skills to do your shaping/smoothing to it. But if I don't feel comfortable would you be willing to extend your services?
I would be willing to wait until you receive mine before you send me yours so you wouldn't be without one for longer than it takes to do the mod. Or you could just mod mine and return it.
No problem. I've been charging $20 and that includes the return shipping. That offer would go to any member that doesn't want to tackle it.
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I just polished the existing two edges.
It did make the trigger action smoother, but not anything else.
Troy, what does curving the front do and what does angling the top edge do ?
Thanks, Robert
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I just polished the existing two edges.
It did make the trigger action smoother, but not anything else.
Troy, what does curving the front do and what does angling the top edge do ?
Thanks, Robert
When you pull the trigger the factory sear has to push the hammer forward before it can fire adding the hammer spring weight to the trigger pull. The curvature is the radius of the pivot so there's no fighting the hammer spring. The angle after reducing the height, shortens trigger pull length and allows clearance for the hammer to release after trigger breaks.
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Does it affect the hammer spring adjustment?... travel?
I guess what I mean is... does it change the FPS from factory?
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Does it affect the hammer spring adjustment?... travel?
I guess what I mean is... does it change the FPS from factory?
Almost has to change it a little since you're not pushing the hammer back farther during the shot. I really noticed no major difference in speed though over the chrony. I might have lost 10fps or so but the difference in the trigger now vs then I'll gladly trade that difference.
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Man I wish the wood stocked rifle was available in .25 caliber! What's the chance of adapting an existing .25 barrel to fit?
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Man I wish the wood stocked rifle was available in .25 caliber! What's the chance of adapting an existing .25 barrel to fit?
Should be rather upfront. You can thread the factory probe and make a thread on adapter to convert it to .25. I've done that many times.
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Does it affect the hammer spring adjustment?... travel?
I guess what I mean is... does it change the FPS from factory?
Almost has to change it a little since you're not pushing the hammer back farther during the shot. I really noticed no major difference in speed though over the chrony. I might have lost 10fps or so but the difference in the trigger now vs then I'll gladly trade that difference.
That's what I was thinking. I do know that when you adjust a regulator that you will want to also adjust the hammer spring to balance things. So, do you think if you adjust the hammer spring to get that 10 or so fps back you would also increase the trigger pull to be harder again? I ain't saying I would, I'm just curious.
Pretty sure you would also gain a few more shots before coming off the reg with your mod.
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heck, since we're already here, let's talk about it...
I don't have a ton of experience with regulated guns but the way I understand it is that you set your reg where you are happy with the power and how accurately it shoots your selected ammo. Then you adjust your hammer spring to the the peek of the fps until it begins to drop then back off the HS just a bit.
Is that how you do it?
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I took mine out in the wild today, had a couple shots go off like 1/2 power, thinking sear drag or I got some slug shavings in the action ??? , seemed to be working ok when I shot this video LOL
https://youtu.be/71WPosOhHMw?list=PLASJo4rBxMIlqqdMrubbzrNEPjP6pVsU6
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heck, since we're already here, let's talk about it...
I don't have a ton of experience with regulated guns but the way I understand it is that you set your reg where you are happy with the power and how accurately it shoots your selected ammo. Then you adjust your hammer spring to the the peek of the fps until it begins to drop then back off the HS just a bit.
Is that how you do it?
Yup pretty much, Plenum volume is the limiting factor on the power this gun can make.
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heck, since we're already here, let's talk about it...
I don't have a ton of experience with regulated guns but the way I understand it is that you set your reg where you are happy with the power and how accurately it shoots your selected ammo. Then you adjust your hammer spring to the the peek of the fps until it begins to drop then back off the HS just a bit.
Is that how you do it?
Yup pretty much, Plenum volume is the limiting factor on the power this gun can make.
Yeah, I'm not big on squeezing all the power out of a gun it can muster. I am more interested in it shooting my cast pellets accurately and shot count per fill. Now that's not to say I would be happy with a 6 fpe gun that gets 200 shots per fill. I do want it to make holes in paper... and the occasional critter. ;D
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Man I wish the wood stocked rifle was available in .25 caliber! What's the chance of adapting an existing .25 barrel to fit?
Should be rather upfront. You can thread the factory probe and make a thread on adapter to convert it to .25. I've done that many times.
Rated at max 800fps with .22 pellets, would it have the umph for .25 pellets?
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Man I wish the wood stocked rifle was available in .25 caliber! What's the chance of adapting an existing .25 barrel to fit?
Should be rather upfront. You can thread the factory probe and make a thread on adapter to convert it to .25. I've done that many times.
Rated at max 800fps with .22 pellets, would it have the umph for .25 pellets?
I think it would oomph them. Numbers I have seen are ~850 for 17.6gr Normas
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With my P-RIFLE I got average 904 fps out of the only mag I have shot using 14.3. I shot at factory settings and the hammer adjuster is backed out even with breech. I think there should be enough adjustment in reg and hammer spring to shoot lighter .25. Having just ordered the P-PUP to complete the trifecta now your going to make me want another P-RIFLE and send to THAMMER to work his magic. Already know BARRA mags will fit the rifle and BARRA has them in .177 .22 and .25 for $12.00 .
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With my P-RIFLE I got average 904 fps out of the only mag I have shot using 14.3. I shot at factory settings and the hammer adjuster is backed out even with breech. I think there should be enough adjustment in reg and hammer spring to shoot lighter .25. Having just ordered the P-PUP to complete the trifecta now your going to make me want another P-RIFLE and send to THAMMER to work his magic. Already know BARRA mags will fit the rifle and BARRA has them in .177 .22 and .25 for $12.00 .
I have plenty of accurate .25 barrel blanks laying around.... 😆... fuel that fire... 😆
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With my P-RIFLE I got average 904 fps out of the only mag I have shot using 14.3. I shot at factory settings and the hammer adjuster is backed out even with breech. I think there should be enough adjustment in reg and hammer spring to shoot lighter .25. Having just ordered the P-PUP to complete the trifecta now your going to make me want another P-RIFLE and send to THAMMER to work his magic. Already know BARRA mags will fit the rifle and BARRA has them in .177 .22 and .25 for $12.00 .
I have plenty of accurate .25 barrel blanks laying around.... 😆... fuel that fire... 😆
Dang enablers! ;D
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My gun finally showed movement.
Since 2/19 when it left Chino, CA tracking went silent. The original eta was and still is today. It finally arrived and departed Kennesaw, Ga. over night. That is usually the last stop before landing in Montgomery, Al where it goes out for delivery.
I'm optimistic.. ;)
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With my P-RIFLE I got average 904 fps out of the only mag I have shot using 14.3. I shot at factory settings and the hammer adjuster is backed out even with breech. I think there should be enough adjustment in reg and hammer spring to shoot lighter .25. Having just ordered the P-PUP to complete the trifecta now your going to make me want another P-RIFLE and send to THAMMER to work his magic. Already know BARRA mags will fit the rifle and BARRA has them in .177 .22 and .25 for $12.00 .
Try any slugs through the p-rifle yet?
Also, started a p-rifle thread to consolidate findings as we learn.
https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=217821.msg156584640#msg156584640
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LOL... 6 pages and I ain't even got my gun yet.
But lots of good info so far.
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LOL... 6 pages and I ain't even got my gun yet.
But lots of good info so far.
I'm probably as excited for you to get it as you are. I've been following just waiting for the joy of your post after it's there.
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LOL... 6 pages and I ain't even got my gun yet.
But lots of good info so far.
I'm probably as excited for you to get it as you are. I've been following just waiting for the joy of your post after it's there.
Hopefully that will happen today. At least it's getting real close.
If you've ever followed any of my threads you'll know they tend to get lengthy. Lots of high and low roads taken. :-\ But they usually provide some good reading/info.
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And as I was typing that last reply I got a tracking update...
It's out for delivery and expected to arrive between 9:45 and 11:45 this morning. It's now 8:25 here.
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Question...
Would it be a bit too much to have the security cameras set to alarm when motion is detected? :o
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Question...
Would it be a bit too much to have the security cameras set to alarm when motion is detected? :o
😆 🤣 😂
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Question...
Would it be a bit too much to have the security cameras set to alarm when motion is detected? :o
😆 🤣 😂
Just realized you are in Ohio.. In 2013 Betty Lou and I moved here to Alabama from London, Ohio.. just west of Columbus. I was born and raised in Ashtabula.. east of Cleveland.
Been to King's Island in your neck of the woods many times.
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LOL... 6 pages and I ain't even got my gun yet.
But lots of good info so far.
I'm probably as excited for you to get it as you are. I've been following just waiting for the joy of your post after it's there.
X2
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It's here...
I met the FedEx guy at the gate as he pulled in and he handed me the box.
UT OH !!!
This is what I saw...
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I asked him to wait until I opened it so we could take pics together, which he did.
We opened the box and there was no damage to anything inside. WHEW !!
Even the foam packaging was good. I checked the bolt for any deformation.. all good.
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well that's a relief!
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Yeah it was... Betty Lou was already developing a hairy eyeball.
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Phew!
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Next I noticed the tank was on zero... Do we have a leak?
I had to cock the gun to get it to take air from the YH compressor but it filled just fine.
So I grabbed a tin of JTS 18.1 Dead Centers and the UTG SWAT Accushot scope and headed for the North range shooting deck.
I fired a couple shots to feel out the trigger, check that sloppy fit on the receiver and see how loud the gun was. I also wanted to see how fiddly loading pellets was with my sausage fingers. :o
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Ok, problem... why is it so low on power?
Ah Ha !! The power wheel was cranked all the way out to dead stop. So I cranked it back in until it was on the 3rd hash from the front... now we got power. Another dodged bullet.
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Fiddly pellet loading...
Once I got comfortable with it.. it wasn't bad. I have been enjoying shooting single shot guns lately.. it slows the shooting to a more relaxed event.
The sloppy receiver...
Ok.. I can make it hang up if I try but if I just Cock, insert pellet and close to battery.. it works flawlessly for me. Not once did it hang with normal shooting.
Trigger pull.... yeah, that's a bit heavy for my taste. But, it wasn't the crunchy grindy feel that I expected and I was able to predict the let off after a few shots.. I can even feel a slight stop before let off.
I think I'm going to let it break in a bit before I open it up, polish and lube it. Let's see where it goes before we do anything irreversible.
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Here is my take on triggers...
If a trigger distracts my attention to POA then I need to do something about it.
Considering this gun is new and I was focusing on the trigger it was a bit of a distraction but after I got used to the pull weight I was able to focus on aim.
Speaking of aim...
Once I mounted the scope and sighted it in I was tagging easy dimes at 25 yards.
I mean, no barrel cleaning, no pellets testing, just load and shoot. And after 25 or so shots I was stacking pellets.
THIS GUN CAN KEEL !!!
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I'm not very attuned on MPa to psi conversions so I had to Google stuff.
The reg is factory set at 2175 psi on this gun and that is probably where I would set it anyways. We'll let that break in.
The fill gauge matches the YH gauge... we're good there.
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How loud is it?
Anyone who knows me knows I like loud guns. I am from the family of "Loud Pipes Save Lives".. ;)
That said.. this gun ain't loud. It ain't Rocker1 or Donny FL quiet but it ain't loud.
But, the factory silencer does a pretty good job. I can see it being an issue if you live in the hood But all my neighbors are of the critter species. And if I can scare them away I don't have to shoot them.
However, unscrew that muffler and it becomes straight pipe loud... Daddy likes !!!
And those rednecks a half mile down the dirt road will probably show up to shoot the new gun.
Got Beer ?
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Numbers?
Think Imma shoot this thing over the next couple days and get it good and broke in before I bust out the chrony and spreadsheet.
I also have some other pellets, cast pellets and slugs I wanna try.
Plus I wanna see what the trigger does.
BTW... Betty Lou likes a heavy trigger.. this gun is Betty Lou approved. I had to remind her that this one is mine. ::) In the end we settled on "ours".
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So far he likes it, folks!
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Yup... I appear to be a tactical convert.
So much for the theory about old dogs and new tricks.
I got too old to fight anymore so I'm counting on the looks of my gun to scare them away.
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BTW... that UTG Swat Accushot 3-12x44 is a great match up to this gun.
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Imma go shoot some more..
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Yup... I appear to be a tactical convert.
So much for the theory about old dogs and new tricks.
I got too old to fight anymore so I'm counting on the looks of my gun to scare them away.
[chuckling]
Don't mess with that guy, he's from the future!
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I just polished the existing two edges.
It did make the trigger action smoother, but not anything else.
Troy, what does curving the front do and what does angling the top edge do ?
Thanks, Robert
I went at it some more following THammers trigger.
I removed some off top and curved the front using a small metal file then polished edges again.
I did not remove as much material as THammers, but it is now crisper without as much drag.
Thanks again to THammers efforts.
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Gun looks very similar to the Talon ss series except the pricing makes more sense.
Seems that like the Talons you need to do a lot of work and have a ton of tuning potential.
But that makes sense at like 300bucks vs the 600 for the talons.
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Thoroughly enjoyed shooting this gun this afternoon. Truth be known, I would be happy not changing a single thing about it. I almost don't even want to chrony it because I don't want to see what could be improved. But I will, eventually.
I shot alot of different pellets with it today and only found a couple it wouldn't shoot as well as all others. And to my delight, it shoots my cast 217 20 RF Hunters and the 217 24 RF magnums very well. I also tried the without sorting and they shot the +- 1 gr great.
But the biggest surprise was this... https://noebulletmolds.com/site/shop/bullet-moulds/224/217-30-fn-bj5-bt/217-30-fn-bj5-5-cavity-bt-w-hp/
Man, this thing hammers those pellets.. and dead nut accurate within my 40 yd. range. So much so that Betty Lou gave me the nod on ordering that mold. The problem is that NOE is out of stock on it.
So I will contact Al and see if they have any plans on a run of them.
I will also put a couple WTB in the classifieds and see if I can scare one up.
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NOE does have a 2 cavity mold in that size. 2 of them actually. I been waiting for a 5 cavity myself.
https://noebulletmolds.com/site/product-category/bullet-moulds/224/217-30-fn-bj5-bt/
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NOE does have a 2 cavity mold in that size. 2 of them actually. I been waiting for a 5 cavity myself.
https://noebulletmolds.com/site/product-category/bullet-moulds/224/217-30-fn-bj5-bt/
Yep.. I replied to your PM. I don't have good luck with brass molds. I've used a couple.
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NOE does have a 2 cavity mold in that size. 2 of them actually. I been waiting for a 5 cavity myself.
https://noebulletmolds.com/site/product-category/bullet-moulds/224/217-30-fn-bj5-bt/
Yep.. I replied to your PM. I don't have good luck with brass molds. I've used a couple.
yeah its a different pace than AL molds. I would have a 2 holer with 1hp in /AL I think.
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NOE does have a 2 cavity mold in that size. 2 of them actually. I been waiting for a 5 cavity myself.
https://noebulletmolds.com/site/product-category/bullet-moulds/224/217-30-fn-bj5-bt/
Yep.. I replied to your PM. I don't have good luck with brass molds. I've used a couple.
yeah its a different pace than AL molds. I would have a 2 holer with 1hp in /AL I think.
All the videos I've watched suggest you have to pour brass hotter than Al.
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I had to clean lead shavings out of mine, I was stuffing some way too big for the bore slugs in it, they were causing the hammer to drag. All good now, I need squirrel therapy :)
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NICE !!
The mold is on the way... thanks James.
Will the bullet slinging P-Force please step to the head of the class?
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NICE !!
The mold is on the way... thanks James.
Will the bullet slinging P-Force please step to the head of the class?
Now I need bullets.. lol... with the longer barrel i installed I'm hoping it's a slug shooter. 21" barrel and no choke. We'll see come the weekend when my sear gets here. I swapoed my modified sear with a member for their factory sear. I'll get it profiled and back in on Saturday to start testing.
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NICE !!
The mold is on the way... thanks James.
Will the bullet slinging P-Force please step to the head of the class?
Now I need bullets.. lol... with the longer barrel i installed I'm hoping it's a slug shooter. 21" barrel and no choke. We'll see come the weekend when my sear gets here. I swapoed my modified sear with a member for their factory sear. I'll get it profiled and back in on Saturday to start testing.
I hope your's does as well as mine with these. I can send you some samples when I get the mold.
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Ok, I have a question regarding the sloppy cylinder.
First of all I apologize but I'm not in the shop where the gun is so I borrowed this pic from a previous post to show the area I'm talking about here. If it's confusing I will get a better pic of my gun tomorrow. I think it will be easy to understand with this picture.
In the trough under the cylinder in the area I have circled in red on my gun there is small ramp looking nub. On my gun it aligns the cylinder so it closes without hanging up.
I'm wondering if you folks with the sloppy cylinder and problems with it hanging up have this nub on your guns or is it an added fix later in the run.
Like I said... I don't have the sloppy issues I've seen others post.
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Bill,
Mine has the nub, and I have the misalignment cocking and closing once in a while, but it is better than it was at first.
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Bill,
Mine has the nub, and I have the misalignment cocking and closing once in a while, but it is better than it was at first.
Robert..
Thank you for the reply. Yeah, I just don't have all that slop I've on other folk's guns. I have to purposely guide my cylinder to make it hang.
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Bill,
Mine has the nub, and I have the misalignment cocking and closing once in a while, but it is better than it was at first.
Robert..
Thank you for the reply. Yeah, I just don't have all that slop I've on other folk's guns. I have to purposely guide my cylinder to make it hang.
My barrel measured .305" and the AF equivalent is .3125" when I added a factory AF barrel there was absolutely zero slop. I think it's just the barrels we're cut too small.
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I had a chance to stretch things out to 45 yards today, 17.6 gr Norma off a Trigger Stick bipod standing, I was getting groups under an inch. Tweaked my scope zero, so should be perfect for the next longer range attempts.
I will have to look for a nub ??? LOL
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LOL... I'll get pics today... promise.
Tracking on the mold says Tuesday so I don't have to be so stingy with the BT slugs I have on hand so I'll make an attempt to get some chrono numbers with them today.
Accuracy passed with flying colors.
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Sorry for the fuzzy picture but I used an old cell phone I had laying in the shop.
But here is the alignment nub... Just wondering if everybody's gun has it.
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I've also been accessorizing a bit..
A slip on cheek pad with loops for vials of ammo.
A pair of MLok rails for legs ect..
A finger activated green laser (this thing can hit a cloud at night)
A LED flash light that zooms to 2000x
And a click on/off red laser.
I also have a holographic Tru Glo red/green dot sight. (not shown)
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@avator-- Sorry I am at work right now and not looking at my P-FORCE but I think and could be wrong but that is not an alignment but that is part of the safety that when the safety is engaged it will stop the cocking lever from rotating to cock. I will double check when I get home.
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@avator-- Sorry I am at work right now and not looking at my P-FORCE but I think and could be wrong but that is not an alignment but that is part of the safety that when the safety is engaged it will stop the cocking lever from rotating to cock. I will double check when I get home.
You know, I think you are right.. I didn't realize it moves. I just depressed it.
I guess it helps to put my glasses on. :o
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My UTG 3x12x44 just arrived.. Not bad for the price.. Rings fit no problem... As soon as I get my sear from or bother in air Troy, I will slap it together and when the wind is under 20 mph I'll take it to my permission and play... Have some AVS slugs, but they might be to large at .2193.. I also pick up some JTS dead center 16.08 pellets and a tin of the Olympia 25 gr slugs..
Cosmic (Ray)
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My UTG 3x12x44 just arrived.. Not bad for the price.. Rings fit no problem... As soon as I get my sear from or bother in air Troy, I will slap it together and when the wind is under 20 mph I'll take it to my permission and play... Have some AVS slugs, but they might be to large at .2193.. I also pick up some JTS dead center 16.08 pellets and a tin of the Olympia 25 gr slugs..
Cosmic (Ray)
Just finished the sear. In my rifle it's breaking at 1lb5oz and smooth. I'll run it up to the post office in the next hour.
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This man is a GREAT asset to air gunning !!! Thanks Troy !!!
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I shot some BBT slugs I cast in tin, IIR they weigh 21 gr. I will do a follow-up tomorrow, over crony etc. seemed to be going about where I aimed in a 35 mph crosswind lol.
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I shot some BBT slugs I cast in tin, IIR they weigh 21 gr. I will do a follow-up tomorrow, over crony etc. seemed to be going about where I aimed in a 35 mph crosswind lol.
The new to me BBT mold has an eta of Tuesday but tracking has it in Montgomery as of 2:00pm today. That's usually where UPS put stuff on the local truck for delivery. It might arrive as early as tomorrow.
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Just received an update from UPS. The original plan was to transfer it to USPS for delivery one Tuesday. They now say that UPS will be in the area and deliver it themselves on Monday.
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These are the slugs I plan to shoot with My P-Force so these are the slugs I want to get the chrono numbers with and do any tuning accordingly. So far I have only been shooting this gun with these same BBT that I had on hand. I've probably shot 150 or so and the gun is deadly accurate with them out to 45 ish yards. I want to be sure I'm getting the same weight and accuracy out of this mold.
I've become very comfortable with the trigger and, as of now, don't plan to make any changes.
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These are the slugs I plan to shoot with My P-Force so these are the slugs I want to get the chrono numbers with and do any tuning accordingly. So far I have only been shooting this gun with these same BBT that I had on hand. I've probably shot 150 or so and the gun is deadly accurate with them out to 45 ish yards. I want to be sure I'm getting the same weight and accuracy out of this mold.
I've become very comfortable with the trigger and, as of now, don't plan to make any changes.
Dm me with an address. I'll send you a sear to test. Send me your factory sear if you like this one better. They'll be s return label for either sear you send back.
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These are the slugs I plan to shoot with My P-Force so these are the slugs I want to get the chrono numbers with and do any tuning accordingly. So far I have only been shooting this gun with these same BBT that I had on hand. I've probably shot 150 or so and the gun is deadly accurate with them out to 45 ish yards. I want to be sure I'm getting the same weight and accuracy out of this mold.
I've become very comfortable with the trigger and, as of now, don't plan to make any changes.
Dm me with an address. I'll send you a sear to test. Send me your factory sear if you like this one better. They'll be s return label for either sear you send back.
DM sent.
I got RS covered.. no need to include label.
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I shot a couple different slugs today at 40 yards, needed alot of holdover for the 24 gr cup points I sized to .217, will size them down one more size and try again. The BBT .217 18.2 gr I cast in tin may have gone through the same hole a couple times ???
https://youtu.be/upgGa6BWqQ8
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SQUIRREL !!!
Yep, ole Rocky got me this morning.
I know I said I was going to wait for the new NOE 217 30 FN BBT mold to come before I chronied the gun but I just couldn't hold out one more day. :o
I didn't want to burn through all the BBT slugs I have on hand because I want to use them for reference against the ones I drop from the new mold.
As happenstance would have it I recently received 4 fresh tins of JTS 18.1 pellets so I chose the to run a string.
Betty Lou called me to eat before I had a chance to import the numbers into the spreadsheet but that will come soon.
But I will say this...
From 3600 down to the 2100 reg setting it ran 70 shots in the window of 872 - 862. And every shot went into a 1" hole at 30 yds with a breeze blowing my target around.
This is straight out of the box setting... I ain't even cleaned the barrel on this gun.
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Before brunch I ran some of my sized down slugs back through another sizer, and if Nick was done with mt Micrometer I would tell you exacts, but they seem to be in the .216 range after bringing down from .217. OE .218ish fresh cast. But same holing it at 10m, so whilr SHMBO an BIL are watching Lord of Ring Cartoon, I will go sneak in some Pating !!!
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Dang... took me awhile to remember how to use the spreadsheet.
I think some hammer spring adjusting is in order but it's close.
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I see the up down spikes on the pressures above 3000, I hav noticed a few lower than adverage shots on mine at the higher pressure maybe below too. I suspect hammer binding, perhaps on the OE sear ???
I was going to do some crony work with resized slugs but took a Squirrel Society Field Trip first LOL. See More on my Tube You Channel ;)
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I'm gonna hold off on any adjustments until I get that mold tomorrow and run a batch of BBT slugs. I have a feeling that 12 more gr weight is going to slow those speeds down to mid 700s but FPE should increase if FPE matters to anyone. 30 FPE will obliterate anything I might shoot at around here. Oh and those HP BBT slugs really open up and would cut a large gap.
Those will be my go to ammo so that is what I will tune to.
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I see the up down spikes on the pressures above 3000, I hav noticed a few lower than adverage shots on mine at the higher pressure maybe below too. I suspect hammer binding, perhaps on the OE sear ???
I was going to do some crony work with resized slugs but took a Squirrel Society Field Trip first LOL. See More on my Tube You Channel ;)
I have yet to turn the first screw on this gun so, other than the pics that others have posted, I have now idea what the guts look like yet. I do know that there are a couple springs that will want to take flight so I will be watching for those.
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I have not done anything but put a bit of preload on the hammer spring. I ran the slugs through my smallest sizer .2165 and got these numbers, and excellent accuracy.
BBT in tin 19gr. 805 fps
24gr cast cup point 710 fps
29gr BBT Lead 690 fps
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I have not done anything but put a bit of preload on the hammer spring. I ran the slugs through my smallest sizer .2165 and got these numbers, and excellent accuracy.
BBT in tin 19gr. 805 fps
24gr cast cup point 710 fps
29gr BBT Lead 690 fps
The mold is out for delivery. ;)
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I ran a batch of around 100 slugs with the long HP pins. After tumbling they averaged 27.5 gr <> .2. For some reason I thought those may be too light so I swapped to the medium pins and dropped another 50 or so.
While they were in the tumbler I tested the long pin sample. The fit the barrel really well and shot as accurate as the samples I have on hand.
The medium pin samples weight 30gr <> .5. I took those to the bench and the fit too snug in the barrel. I didn't force one in and dumped them back in the pot.
Long pin it will be. ;)
Cull rate was about 10% mostly due to me not filling out the mold. (Deforms)
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Just saw the first one used to hit the classifieds, that was pretty quick
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Just saw the first one used to hit the classifieds, that was pretty quick
Yep saw that... probably a buy, try and sell type deal. I also saw it had a couple extras including a one pc. scope mount that I would never use on this gun. The extras brought the selling point up to $275. I passed.
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I poured, tumble and weighed up a couple hundred BBT slugs. Enough for a full tin. Now that the experimenting with the new mold is done I can drop that many in a couple short hours. I'm gonna keep going until I have a pt. Tupperware container full and try to maintain that in stock.
Next time Charles West calls me out to thin the Starlings that pester his Martin houses I'll be ready to lay them to waste. Yeah, I know... you don't need 35fpe to kill a Starling but I love seeing the poof of feathers. ;)
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(https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/Themes/CustomGTA2023/images/post/thumbup.gif) I like it when the starlings go Pop! ;D 8) I alike the solid points but I need to size them to get the best results.
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Today's casting session netted me about 400 pellets poured, tumbled and sorted/weighed/culled. I am very happy with the results.. 28gr <> .30. The P-Force is not picking with that tolerance at all. Cull rate was under 10%. I preheat the mold to 140c and run the pot at 700f and I ladle pour.
I have yet to run these over the chrono from the P-Force and the wind it a bit too high to do it today.. I like to shoot for consistent accuracy as I'm running the string. That's how I ran the JTS 18.1 and the entire 67 shot run hit minute of a squirrel noggin.
I don't know if anyone has noticed but you can shoot at different angles over the ProChrono and get different results. Angles will change the distance between the sensors. I've tested this with pellets that weighed exactly the same. So I like to aim at the same point throughout the string.
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I shot my Chrony dead a few years ago. Now I use one that clamps on the barrel end
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I don't have any experience with the Air Force guns so I can't relate but like I said... it puts me in mind of loading an underlever fixed barrel gun. Only difference is that it don't look like it has the potential to bite your finger off like those "Foo man chew" guns. :-\
Hi, i was wondering if you could help me with the pinty pcp because the manual is basically useless.i just got the pinty pcp tactical and i tried to remove the rubber pad underneath the barrel to install a foregrip. When i removed it a spring and metal piece popped out. Now i don’t know how to place back into gun. Also would you know the moderator thread size? Thanks in advance 🙏
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The threads are M14x1. I can't help you with the trigger sear and spring that fell out because I haven't had mine apart yet. I've seen the pictures that others posted but I doubt I could explain it just from those pictures, I do have a modified sear coming so I will be digging into it once that arrives.
I'm sure others with experience will soon chime in.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z786-NIUVS4&t=762s
At 12:40
Mod is 14x1, Troy hammer is making adapters to 1/2x20..
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I don't have any experience with the Air Force guns so I can't relate but like I said... it puts me in mind of loading an underlever fixed barrel gun. Only difference is that it don't look like it has the potential to bite your finger off like those "Foo man chew" guns. :-\
Hi, i was wondering if you could help me with the pinty pcp because the manual is basically useless.i just got the pinty pcp tactical and i tried to remove the rubber pad underneath the barrel to install a foregrip. When i removed it a spring and metal piece popped out. Now i don’t know how to place back into gun. Also would you know the moderator thread size? Thanks in advance 🙏
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I remember a discussion a while back about shooting angles with a chronograph. Since then I have strived to shoot as level with the chrony as possible... Both of my stand alone chronographs have been shot, :-\ but fortunately both still work and occationally I will test one against the other to see if they fairly closely agree, and they still do. I also have one of the barrel clamp China chronys but it seems to consistantly show velocities 10-15% higher than my Pro Chrono and my Shooting Chrony F1.
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I don't have any experience with the Air Force guns so I can't relate but like I said... it puts me in mind of loading an underlever fixed barrel gun. Only difference is that it don't look like it has the potential to bite your finger off like those "Foo man chew" guns. :-\
Hi, i was wondering if you could help me with the pinty pcp because the manual is basically useless.i just got the pinty pcp tactical and i tried to remove the rubber pad underneath the barrel to install a foregrip. When i removed it a spring and metal piece popped out. Now i don’t know how to place back into gun. Also would you know the moderator thread size? Thanks in advance 🙏
Thank you
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Troy "IS THE MAN" 8)
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I put a strip of tape on the housing in the middle of the sensor..... If I want ultimate accuracy, I put a carbon fiber rod in my barrel and aim that over the sensors..
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I'm gonna go ahead and run my cast BBT slugs over the chrono this morning.
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Chrono cast coffee? [chuckling]
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Coffee. cast, chrono ? :o
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Well I'm avoiding having to drive in nasty weather for the trip home from work, need to finish a Blue Streak rebuild, while awaiting the Pinty Carbine delivery, and after that I do believe I need to take my Tactical P-Force apart and make some changes, or at lest see completely all the workings and polish up that trigger a tad. I find the rifle likes a loser hold, that does not bode well with a heavier trigger.
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Ran the string with the BBT.
First let me be honest... I sorted these slugs and saved 27.50 - 28.50. I think that is why the fps is all over the place. But I'm going to post this for reference.
When this wind and rain slacks I'm going to sort a batch of these slugs with a much tighter tolerance to test my theory.
That said... the accuracy within my range with this weight spread is quite good so I will continue to use all pellets for normal shooting.
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I am hitting spikes and drops like you too Bill. I am on hold with the Sreak project and now have the sear out, will most likely have my Tactical tore down by tonight back together, if fixes are not too involved. I suspect some sort of hammer drag, I increased hammer spring tension thinking that may help but not so much. Will take pics of my sear, and do follow-ups.
Where is that FedEx truck lol. ???
Sear Image, looks more like a file than a trigger sear, there is also a parting line like ridge that shows it drags on the hammer. That ridge gets removed with T-Hammer mod.
(https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/gallery/17377-050325120407.jpeg)
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. . . and now, I did not take as much off as T-Hammer, but close enough, lightened the pull and definitely smoothed out the pull. I also burnished in some Moly powder.
(https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/gallery/17377-050325152155.jpeg)
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For guns with the bolt problem:
Here is the reply from Pinty on the bolt misalignment problem. ( Not really a fix )
We have thoroughly analyzed the situation and have identified the cause of the problem. It appears that the misalignment and difficulty in cocking and closing the bolt are due to a slight gap between the component you are pulling and the barrel. To address this issue, we recommend adjusting the way you handle the bolt during operation.
Instead of pulling the handle at the top, we suggest gripping the base of the bolt handle with your fingers while operating it. By pulling the bolt handle at the base rather than the top, you should be able to maintain better alignment and overcome the difficulty you are currently facing.
We believe that this adjustment in your handling technique should help resolve the issue you are encountering with the bolt alignment. Please try this method and let us know if you require any further assistance or if the problem persists.
Thank you for your understanding and cooperation. Should you have any additional questions or concerns, please do not hesitate to reach out to us.
Pinty Scopes Customer Support
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Or give it the T-Hammer treatment ;)
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Yep. I just hold my mouth right and it works just fine. Lots of things in my life I could complain about... this one is pretty low on the list.
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Yup if I don't think about it it works just fine. :) Squirrel moment as the P-Carbine has arrived.
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For guns with the bolt problem:
Here is the reply from Pinty on the bolt misalignment problem. ( Not really a fix )
We have thoroughly analyzed the situation and have identified the cause of the problem. It appears that the misalignment and difficulty in cocking and closing the bolt are due to a slight gap between the component you are pulling and the barrel. To address this issue, we recommend adjusting the way you handle the bolt during operation.
Instead of pulling the handle at the top, we suggest gripping the base of the bolt handle with your fingers while operating it. By pulling the bolt handle at the base rather than the top, you should be able to maintain better alignment and overcome the difficulty you are currently facing.
We believe that this adjustment in your handling technique should help resolve the issue you are encountering with the bolt alignment. Please try this method and let us know if you require any further assistance or if the problem persists.
Thank you for your understanding and cooperation. Should you have any additional questions or concerns, please do not hesitate to reach out to us.
Pinty Scopes Customer Support
Robert
Seems the clearance problem has finally been addressed,
I recall in some of my posts that clearance has always been addressed as being an issue with Chinese production
Thank Goodness for most part our DIY come up with fixes for these issues
Bill
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Got bored and pulled the trigger sear out. I polished it up lightly with some die stones just enough to take those ridges out and put a light coat of moly on it. I put it back together and had to take it back apart... lol, I forgot to put the trigger shoe on it. :-\
Maybe a bit smoother but no lighter. I'm just gonna shoot it the way it is.
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LOL trigger shoe got you too ;)
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LOL trigger shoe got you too ;)
Yep, I did.
I'll try to remember next time. Which won't be too long.. one of Troy's sears will be on the way next week.
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I shot this target with the PTA after I shot an official fun match with the Pinty carbine PCA target on bottom.
(https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/gallery/17377-080325171558.jpeg)
(https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/gallery/17377-080325143840.jpeg)
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I'm curious, what are you calling the carbine? The standard rifle QL22?
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Yes it is shorter and lighter than my gen2 DAR :o
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I got a carbine copy of what you got, James, and without a moderator the carbine fits in my AR/bullpup soft cases, which is something my r7 is too big to do.
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The P-Rifle is an aesthetic qlternative to the Notos.
Metal optics rails on both, which hunters not in blinds might prefer.
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Wait. I’m confused. Is this the Pinty carbine thread? Or the Pinty bullpup thread? I thought it was the Pinty tacticool thread? Isn’t there a Pinty rifle thread?
You guys gotta keep all this stuff straight for me. :P
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Over at the other place it is a lumped thread, very confusing. I posted about the Tactical, and compared to the Carbine, and back to tact :)
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LOL... I need to start looking to see if someone else posted while I was typing a reply instead of just posting and moving on... a warning will come up but if you don't see it your reply won't get posted.
Anyways... I said the same thing James did about the thread on the other forum getting combined.
This one went off track probably because I was slow to move it along.. I started it before I actually had the gun in hand and that delay opened the door.
It's all good... the info is here... just gotta look for it.
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That said.. I'm on hold again with my P-Force. I thought I was going to be fine with the heavy pull trigger but after shooting it side by side with the Avenger I decided to go with one of THammer's modified sears. I'll shoot other guns while I wait for it to arrive.
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Decided to pull the sear out of the P-Force and get it prepared to send it off to Troy. There are 2 springs in the trigger group, 3 if you count the one for the safety. Somehow the deepest one down, looking at the bottom of the gun, went sideways and I had to pull that lever to put it back in correctly. Well as fate would have it, the spring took flight. Last I saw it, it was head straight to the floor. Now mind you, my shop floor is 2/3 gravel and the direction the spring was going would have put it within 1' of the gravel.
I moved my stool and grabbed the magnet sweep and rolled a couple times under the workbench and surrounding area.
FISH ON !!! WHEW !!!
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There should be a total of 4 springs. One under rear of trigger blade- one under lever between trigger blade and sear and one on top of sear. Forth spring is inserted in the part of the lock switch that sits beside the trigger blade to the rear.
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There should be a total of 4 springs. One under rear of trigger blade- one under lever between trigger blade and sear and one on top of sear. Forth spring is inserted in the part of the lock switch that sits beside the trigger blade to the rear.
I never touched the one under the trigger blade... it's still in place. But thanks, I didn't know it was there.
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When reassembling trigger assembly make sure it has not fallen over because it does very easily. Ask me how I know ? I had to keep backward pressure on trigger to keep it in place while reassembling after getting sear back from THAMMER. Had to take apart after first try because it had slipped out.
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When reassembling trigger assembly make sure it has not fallen over because it does very easily. Ask me how I know ? I had to keep backward pressure on trigger to keep it in place while reassembling after getting sear back from THAMMER. Had to take apart after first try because it had slipped out.
Yep, I think we are talking about the same spring that fell out. I used a dab of grease to hold it in place while I put the lever piece and pin back it.
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Someone really needs to do a good video on this trigger group dis and re assembly procedure.
I bet Troy could do it in his sleep.
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THAMMER has already put up images of the spring locations. The spring I had issues with and am referring to sits under the rear of the trigger blade and only has a slight recess to sit in. Never thought of it but your dab of grease may hold it in place during reassembly. Hope this helps anyone during reassenbly.
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THAMMER has already put up images of the spring locations. The spring I had issues with and am referring to sits under the rear of the trigger blade and only has a slight recess to sit in. Never thought of it but your dab of grease may hold it in place during reassembly. Hope this helps anyone during reassenbly.
Yeah, I brought some of his pics to this thread with his consent.
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This is the spring I nearly lost...
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When I took out the sear from mine I only removed the front pin that goes through the sear.
I thought it would be hard enough too get just it back in, and it did take a little fitting in.
I filed and polished the sear to near match what THammer had in his picture. I was easy peasy.
I did not want to trust sending it in the mail since I have had some bad experiences. If it disappeared then no parts from Pinty.
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When I took out the sear from mine I only removed the front pin that goes through the sear.
I thought it would be hard enough too get just it back in, and it did take a little fitting in.
I filed and polished the sear to near match what THammer had in his picture. I was easy peasy.
I did not want to trust sending it in the mail since I have had some bad experiences. If it disappeared then no parts from Pinty.
Exactly what I did.. only the front pin. I just smoothed the sear, put a light coat of moly on it and was able to put it back in. That really didn't change it much so I decided to get one of Troy's. I contacted him and he said he would send one out Monday. I took mine back out to send to him on Monday so he could continue to mod it and keep supplying them to others. He does not have a spare to work with.
When I took it out, that's when the other spring fell out and I had to take the second pin out to reset the spring. Not much room in there to work in.
I got it back in and all I gotta do is put the new sear in when it arrives and put the gun back together.
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I have a question for the P-Force owners...
Where do you have your regulator and power wheel set?
What are your results?
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I started out at zero with a bit of preload, I now have it at 2.5, to even out first shots after a fill there is some reg creep. BBT 690 fps they are sized to .217 for least friction in the barrel. Reg runa at 14.5 but can creep up to 15.5
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Thanks James.
My power wheel is at 3 and my reg is at 2100 psi. You can see my results in the spreadsheets above.
Once I get the sear back I will do some fine tuning.
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Have you checked the finish on the barrel where the hammer runs on it, it may be a bit rough and causing hammer drag?
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Nope... ain't been in that deep yet.
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I have not touched the regulator - it is at 13-14 mp
I have the hammer spring at 1.0 ( just above the lowest setting )
I have single O-Ring on the valve.
I am shooting the JTS 18.1 at 820 fps.
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Talk to me about the oring on the valve thing... I must have missed that somewhere.
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Talk to me about the oring on the valve thing... I must have missed that somewhere.
It is like a BStanley mod on an Air Force Condor/Talon and now the P-Force to quiet the hammer knock/recoil.
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Talk to me about the oring on the valve thing... I must have missed that somewhere.
It is like a BStanley mod on an Air Force Condor/Talon and now the P-Force to quiet the hammer knock/recoil.
Do you have a picture of the location and the correct oring size to use?
I'm not sure I've seen anyone use the BStaley mod on a regulated gun.
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The o-ring just slips over the valve outlet and sits behind the larger diameter part.
The o-ring is not tight - size 011 - it is like a cushion.
I am not sure if it is called a BStanley or not - it is a thing I came across on the Air Force models.
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I am sure THAMMER installed one in one of his images. I installed it and it works nice. I will search for the image and let you know where you can find it.
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Thanks Robert and Richard. I'll try almost anything once. ::)
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With the o ring under the top hat I was getting about 905 fps with 14.3 crosman on low setting. I am adding an o ring on top of top hat also with power on about 3 with 14.3 and getting about 875 fps. I saw someone put a brass washer on top of top hat so I thought an o ring would help seal it better. So far it is quieter but not shore on shot count yet. Just experimenting.
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With the o ring under the top hat I was getting about 905 fps with 14.3 crosman on low setting. I am adding an o ring on top of top hat also with power on about 3 with 14.3 and getting about 875 fps. I saw someone put a brass washer on top of top hat so I thought an o ring would help seal it better. So far it is quieter but not shore on shot count yet. Just experimenting.
OK, I get it... thanks
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I only have the o-ring below the tophat.
I have serial number 0037
Richard's is 0036
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I only have the o-ring below the tophat.
I have serial number 0037
Richard's is 0036
I'll have to check my SN tomorrow.
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Here is side by side before and after trigger polish reshape.
https://youtube.com/shorts/71WPosOhHMw
https://youtube.com/shorts/rdgwkQfpmIM?si=2RRzCByhWrIfqZLf
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James.. something I noticed in your videos...
In the first video (before) the cylinder did not move. In the second (after) the cylinder moved forward. Is that a thing?
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Seems to be hammer drag either on that hump on the sear or the barrel hammer interface, I addressed the sear and lubed the hammer barrel interface with light silicone oil 30 wt maybe 15 ??? the hammer should move freely on this, some binding would reduce any hammer bounce but cause erratic shots up and down in fps not many duplicated etc.
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I just received my rifle. Arrived in perfect condition with bolt handle off, in the bag. So, they are listening.
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If anyone disassembled the trigger completely.... Start by putting in the sear and the pin, then the transfer bar, spring and pin, the the trigger, pin and spring.. The sear spring drop through the top of the trigger plate... I still haven't figured out the safety yet...
But after Troy's sear modification I guess my trigger is under a pound.. (my trigger pull scale is mechanical and it is not good for that light of a pull..)
If you missed it...
P-Force.. 3400 psi, regulator at 150bar or (15 mpa) ..
JTS Dead Center 16.08gr. around 920 fps.. Power wheel set to one.. (Center the screw on the last tick mark closest to the breech..)
Olympia slugs, Don't know if it to large or to long 25 gr. 755fps, One +12 (Center the screw on the last tick mark closest to the breech +12 on the dial) (Need to slug the barrel)
AVS .2193 22gr. dish base.. 830 fps, 1.0 on power wheel... (Last tick mark, closest to the breech, center the screw..) I also have a super-well that I am trying... I will let you know.
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This is how I discribe the Power Wheel ( Hammer ) dial settings:
No hammer spring preset ( at muzzle ) to maximun ( at breech end )
To use a gauge similar to the Air Forcr Talon ( the tick marks are labeled 2 - 12 from muzzle to breech) lowest at muzzle to highest at breech.
The P-Force has 9 tick marks - not labeled and the rotary dial 0-16.
So my discription of +1 Tick mark and 0 on dial would be a low hammer spring preset ( turn dial through 0-16 to get to 1st tick mark )
+ 1 1/2 would be +1 Tick mark plus 8 on dial ( or half way to +2 Tick mark )
The highest hammer preset would be at +9 Tick mark plus max on rotary dial ( maybe 16 ) - closest to breech.
I am currently at +1 - 0 for a low hammer preset and I am getting 820 fps shooting JTS 18.1 gn with reg at 14 mp.
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Thank you for the break down Robert.
Tracking has my THammer sear arriving Friday. I sent mine to him on Monday so my gun is on the bench waiting for reassembly. I swabbed a bit of Stainless Steel lube with a qtip on the pins and contact points.
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I got mine a few days ago, have not taken time to play with it.
Robert,
I had to read that a couple times to make sense -- not having used an AF I just figured the wheel went from 1 to 16 -- I see now it takes a whole lot of 1 through 16 full rotations to go from low to high, 1 to 9 as you defined them. Yours seems as good a scale reference as any.
In any case, to muddle matters even more, I also noticed one full rotation does not equal one tick mark. That would make far too much sense! If I counted right, it takes 12 full rotations to travel 8 tickmarks. 12 x 16 / 8 = 24 "numbers" or 1.5 full rotations per tick. 12 "numbers" per half-tick. So your "1-1/2" would be 12 counts (numbers) past the first (lowest) tick mark.
I think a few users were settling around "2-1/2" for a decent tune -- which I thought was the numbered wheel -- but now I see they were probably counting ticks, and I don't know if they considered that first tick "0" or "1." Lol, the joys of unmarked scales!
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That threw me at first too..
When I got the gun it was at 0 air pressure and the power was set at 0 ticks. I aired the gun up and the first shot just puttered out the barrel. I began turning up the power wheel and it didn't seem like it was going anywhere. I finally got it to move to 3 ticks and it shot with some authority.
That is where my chrono string is that I posted in this thread.
UPS has moved delivery of the THammer sear from Friday to tomorrow so it looks like I can get it back together and finish fine tuning.
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Mine was delivered with the power wheel fully towards the breech, the exact opposite of yours. @avator. Thanks for that detailed explanation. @Robert 5mm. I haven't shot mine yet, hopefully this weekend.
I 3D printed, both long and short, moderators from thingiverse, to try out.
I want to shoot it some before I reshape the sear.
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Speaking of moderators, I printed this one and it is wonderful. It even semi-tames my Sumatra 2500
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4947322
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Interesting Jared, thanks. I have the same printer that the author has and may try one of those. Just curious, how long did it take for yours to print? What ft lbs is your Sumatra pushing through the moderator?
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Interesting Jared, thanks. I have the same printer that the author has and may try one of those. Just curious, how long did it take for yours to print? What ft lbs is your Sumatra pushing through the moderator?
It takes just under 7 hours for mine to print at 100% infill and I am pushing over 70 fpe through the Sumatra
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Nice, thanks Jared
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In any case, to muddle matters even more, I also noticed one full rotation does not equal one tick mark. That would make far too much sense!
Sorry for the poor description for how the rotary and slide gauges work.
Simple = Rotary dial moves Slide from muzzle (low preset) to breech (high preset).
On my P-Force, I did not rotate as far to count very much, my #1 tick was a full rotation ( 16 ) to go from muzzle to 1st tick,
then 10 on rotary to 2nd tick. Not consistant.
My AirForce Talon has rotary 1-16 ( one rotation ) to go from one tick to next - on all. Ticks are 1-13 but only labeled even # 2 thru 12.
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In any case, to muddle matters even more, I also noticed one full rotation does not equal one tick mark. That would make far too much sense!
Sorry for the poor description for how the rotary and slide gauges work.
Simple = Rotary dial moves Slide from muzzle (low preset) to breech (high preset).
On my P-Force, I did not rotate as far to count very much, my #1 tick was a full rotation ( 16 ) to go from muzzle to 1st tick,
then 10 on rotary to 2nd tick. Not consistant.
My AirForce Talon has rotary 1-16 ( one rotation ) to go from one tick to next - on all. Ticks are 1-13 but only labeled even # 2 thru 12.
I understood every word of your post.
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I understood every word of your post.
That is because of being an Ohio Buckeye ( or Da.. Yankee )
( I was born in Toledo and I also lived in Alabama, so of course you would understand )
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I understood every word of your post.
That is because of being an Ohio Buckeye ( or Da.. Yankee )
( I was born in Toledo and I also lived in Alabama, so of course you would understand )
LOL I knew it had to be something.
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Speaking of moderators, I printed this one and it is wonderful. It even semi-tames my Sumatra 2500
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4947322
...and it's gone. Probably some Karen protecting us from ourselves. Can you attach the STL please?
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In any case, to muddle matters even more, I also noticed one full rotation does not equal one tick mark. That would make far too much sense!
Sorry for the poor description for how the rotary and slide gauges work.
Simple = Rotary dial moves Slide from muzzle (low preset) to breech (high preset).
Robert, Your description was fine, I just had to have the gun in front of me to get it all through my thick skull. It sounds like the P-Force designers also "borrowed" the 1-16 wheel numbering, but didn't bother to make the ticks line up with full wheel rotations. Just call it "quirky."
3rd tick, thanks Avator.
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I just gotta say...
If y'all have this gun and you haven't got one of THammer's trigger sears yet... do yourself a favor.
WOW !!!
I mean, I really liked the gun before but now, for me anyways, it's over the top... for the money spent.
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Speaking of moderators, I printed this one and it is wonderful. It even semi-tames my Sumatra 2500
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4947322
...and it's gone. Probably some Karen protecting us from ourselves. Can you attach the STL please?
Here you go
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Here's a shorty version of that as well
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Troy sear mod is incredible... My guess is under a pound !! I think I will go out and play...
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Troy sear mod is incredible... My guess is under a pound !! I think I will go out and play...
Yup... exactly what this gun was screaming for.
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THAMMER is the best. I sent him my sear and the middle part of sear to do his magic to. He reshaped the sear and the middle piece that pushes on the sear and it is almost butter smooth.
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Here's a shorty version of that as well
Snagged 'em both, thank you.
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I think today will be final numbers day. I don't want to call it tuning because I'm far from a tuner.
Basically I just want to run some chrono strings with my 3 different cast pellets...
NOE 217 30 FN BBT
NOE 217 20 RF Hunter
NOE 217 24 RF Magnum
I may also test some factory pellets but my goal is to shoot my cast stuff. Farm to barrel if you will. ;)
My reg is set to 14 - 15 on the gauge and I won't be changing that.. all adjusting will be with the power wheel. That's the other reason I can't call it tuning.
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I can name that tune in 3 shots :)
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Something I want to point out with the THammer modded trigger sear.
Hammer travel covers less distance with this sear. I first noticed this when cocking the gun after installing the new sear.
Used to be the breech collar would push all the way open and stay even if it wasn't in the forward lock position.
With the new sear it must be locked in to keep it full open.. not much, just what he removed from the sear. After loading the pellet and releasing the collar it will move forward under the pressure of the spring before the sear catches it. This equates to the less distance the hammer travel before opening the valve.
I'm not sure how that will affect power output yet but I do have those before strings for comparison.
I'm also going to explore the oring cushion on the valve... it's a play on the BStaley oring mod. I think THammer came up with this one. More on that later.
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I can name that tune in 3 shots :)
LOL... only you James.
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Too windy to do much outside I did pick up trash that 50 mph wind tossed in my yard, but this is not the gate for that ;)
I wandered my meger selection of .22 ammo and selected some items of interest, and since I had the sizing press set up figured why not try some slugs and pellets that in no way would fit the P-tactical.
All sized to .217 some were very oversized,
P-Tact at same settings as normal.
Pile Drivers 600 fps 30gr
Eujin Point 673 fps ?gr
Rabbit Mag II 675 fps gr?
BBT 633 30gr
African Air Ordnance 602 34gr.
African Air Ordnance 495 50gr.
All hole in hole at 10m :-\
I almost forgot photo evidence, groups or accuracy testing at longer rang up next.
(https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/gallery/17377-150325172415.jpeg)
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Did you try .218 ?
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Did you try .218 ?
.218 is too tight from the ones I tested, I actually sized down some.218 H&N 21gr slugs as they were too large and shaved off lead when shot.
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Thanks Brother !!!
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The H&N HP .218 21 gr slugs fit into my P-Force without being over tight and shoot good.
JTS 18.1 gr pellets fit at about the same tightness and also shoot good.
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The H&N HP .218 21 gr slugs fit into my P-Force without being over tight and shoot good.
JTS 18.1 gr pellets fit at about the same tightness and also shoot good.
The H&N .218 are marginal, they will work well without sizing, my rifle will have some not seat fully with thumb pressure.
I had H&N 21 gr in .217 prior and liked them better. also in Notos and other SPA guns.
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I have neither seen nor heard of the H&N Rabbit Mag II before this.
The tin lid in your pic says 27.01g but the photo on PA says 25.31g
Might have to try some of them, wonder if they will fit in the Kratos mags? ::)
*EDIT*
Never mind.
https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=188410.0 (https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=188410.0)
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I have neither seen nor heard of the H&N Rabbit Mag II before this.
The tin lid in your pic says 27.01g but the photo on PA says 25.31g
Might have to try some of them, wonder if they will fit in the Kratos mags? ::)
I had to size them down to be any good.
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I have had a tin of these around here for 5 + years... I picked them up at a second hand joint or someplace for a couple bucks. I've never had a gun that shot them well... until now.. ;D
They are deadly accurate within my 45yd range in my P-Force straight from the tin... no sizing needed.
These little gems are almost too pretty to shoot. ::)
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I have a 16" disc from a farm implement that has been around since we came here. I have a heavy 2" ruff sawn wood backstop out in the woods at 80 yards that I'm going to hang it on. It's concave in shape so it should ring pretty good.
This wood has been soaked in creosote and it's rock hard. The backstop is about 6'x5'.
I just gotta wait until the swamp soaks in a bit before I head out to hang it. Me and cotton mouths don't get along too well. :-\
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I have a tin of the copper coated ones too I have not tried them yet, it was supposed to be a test vs slugs way back when LOL.
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Better a disc than a CI skillet Bill.
;)
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Bill.
Venomous snakes were put on this earth to be targets for AIRGUNS! ;D
+1 on the disc as a backstop/target. I’ve got two hanging on posts. Set concave face toward you they will deposit lead in an area 10’X10’ in front. Lay a big tarp on the ground before a shooting session and you can recover 75% easy!
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Bill.
Venomous snakes were put on this earth to be targets for AIRGUNS! ;D
+1 on the disc as a backstop/target. I’ve got two hanging on posts. Set concave face toward you they will deposit lead in an area 10’X10’ in front. Lay a big tarp on the ground before a shooting session and you can recover 75% easy!
No way... I'm hoping the snakes will eat them and get lead poisoning.
Yeah, I don't have a problem returning lead to the earth from where it came. ;)
I have an unlimited supply of wheel weight lead to make more.
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I mustered the courage and opened that back gate so I could ride the Rancher atv out through the swamp to hang the disc on the backstop. I was pleased that no snakes joined the party and I made it back without the need for rescue.
Only problem is that I forgot to put a fresh coat of white paint on the disc so strikes could be easily seen through the scope. I'll want to take another run at it.
But yeah, it gives of a nice "RING" when hit.
I'll learn alot about hold over with this.
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I have had a tin of these around here for 5 + years... I picked them up at a second hand joint or someplace for a couple bucks. I've never had a gun that shot them well... until now.. ;D
They are deadly accurate within my 45yd range in my P-Force straight from the tin... no sizing needed.
These little gems are almost too pretty to shoot. ::)
I have had a tin of H&N Rabbit II - lead not copper coated - for a long time.
Oversize - cannot get them into breech even with the round end of a pellet probe.
That is why I still have a full tin of them - could not fit into any .22 without a lot of work.
( they are labelled 5.5 on back of tin )
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I have had a tin of these around here for 5 + years... I picked them up at a second hand joint or someplace for a couple bucks. I've never had a gun that shot them well... until now.. ;D
They are deadly accurate within my 45yd range in my P-Force straight from the tin... no sizing needed.
These little gems are almost too pretty to shoot. ::)
I have had a tin of H&N Rabbit II - lead not copper coated - for a long time.
Oversize - cannot get them into breech even with the round end of a pellet probe.
That is why I still have a full tin of them - could not fit into any .22 without a lot of work.
( they are labelled 5.5 on back of tin )
I would be interested in them if you would be willing to part with them.
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I'll learn alot about hold over with this.
You would have laughed yourself silly if you had seen me trying for a 650 ft shot with an Umarex Origin. Holdover? 7 feet!
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I'll learn alot about hold over with this.
You would have laughed yourself silly if you had seen me trying for a 650 ft shot with an Umarex Origin. Holdover? 7 feet!
As far as I can tell I have a 4" drop with the 28 gr slug. I can hold 3 mil over and hit a 1 1/2" group. But that's with a pretty good cross wind today.
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Bill, I also have a tin of the Rabbit Magnum ll lead pellets I've had for a long time and only shot a couple for testing. They can be yours if you want them, happy to pass them along to someone that can use them... :D
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I did some slug testing today, I had to stop and do other things so I may have not have been on my
B- game today ;)
Bottom row is Norma 17.6 as a standard, middle ish 2 are my cast cup point not sure what up, they may be mixed alloys or what not, I cast new ones for next round of testing.
10m I expect better me and the ammo LOL
Top row Pile Driver, next Rabbit magnum, Cup Point,x2, BBT and Norma.
(https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/gallery/17377-160325173717.jpeg)
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Bill, I also have a tin of the Rabbit Magnum ll lead pellets I've had for a long time and only shot a couple for testing. They can be yours if you want them, happy to pass them along to someone that can use them... :D
Do you not have a Pinty P-Force to try them in?
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Bill I have the Pinty Bullpup, not the P-Force. I have owned several Airforce guns in the past and currently have an Airforce Escape UL so didn't need the P-Force. I recently put the .25 cal barrel back in my Escape UL and will not be shooting anything as heavy as the Rabbit Magnums in my Pinty Pup which is my only .22 cal now.
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???
OK I must have regrouped, here are my results after some food and chill time. I did some casting enough of both bbt and cup point to get back in the grove. I did give myself a few redo's as I knew I pulled the shot.
(https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/gallery/17377-160325210006.jpeg)
Top to bottom Pile Driver, Eujin, H&N 21gr slug, Rabbit magnum II, BRB 34 gr cup point, BRB BBT 30gr.
(https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/gallery/17377-160325210256.jpeg)
Before ::)
(https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/gallery/17377-160325173717.jpeg)
Here are the speeds I do have I will add to it but some are fairly close POI was the same in their weight catagory.
Pile Drivers 600 fps 30gr
Eujin Point 673 fps ?gr
Rabbit Mag II 675 fps gr?
BBT 633 30gr
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Did you do any turret adjusting for the different pellets? Mine takes a bit of adjustment for different ammo. A few are the same and a few require a few clicks one way of the other.
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Pinty has adopted the P-Force moniker...
check it out..
https://pintydevices.com/pages/pinty-pcp-air-rifles
Be sure to scroll down to the rifle specs and notice the names.
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Maybe we ( GTA ) gave them the name.
I used it in the review - see attached screen print of my review.
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Maybe so but others are claiming the glory as well.
But there may be issues... Google P-Force... the brand name may already be in use. AirSoft related.
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Or some big pharma product LOL
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Or some big pharma product LOL
LOL.. yeah, and there is that. :o
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Bill, I also have a tin of the Rabbit Magnum ll lead pellets I've had for a long time and only shot a couple for testing. They can be yours if you want them, happy to pass them along to someone that can use them... :D
Follow up...
I received the Rabbit II pellets from Steve (thank you, Sir) and I'm happy to report that they shoot as accurately as any other pellet/slug that I have that shoots from this gun. Even shooting into the wind this morning I was putting them at minute of paintball at my 40 - 45 yd range. I didn't try them at the max 80 yards because I think that would have been bucking too much of the gusty wind today. That equates to consistent head shots on the squirrels that make the mistake of not reading the No Trespassing sign posted around the property.
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Bill when you get a chance let me know what FPS you are getting with Rabbit Mag II's. Thanks!
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Bill when you get a chance let me know what FPS you are getting with Rabbit Mag II's. Thanks!
NP James...
This wind has gotten pretty crazy here today... probably won't be much shooting until it dies down.
I have to wear my glasses if I got outside because the wind is really blowing the dirt from that stuff around that I pushed off the roof.
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Based on my average FPS from the JTS 18.1 and the BBT 28 I would guess these will run around 790 - 800 at my current set up at
Reg = 2100
Hammer spring = 3/3 (3 hash marks + 3 on the wheel)
But that's just a guess.. coefficiency might affect it some.
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Once the barn is completely closed in we plan a 30yd indoor range along one side of it. Then the weather can be whatever it wants. ;)
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Great news Bill, very pleased you can use the Rabbit Magnums.
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Great news Bill, very pleased you can use the Rabbit Magnums.
Yep, thank you... I'll put up some numbers when this winds backs off.
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Message from Pinty:
Currently, the P-Force tactical air rifles and the returned ones are out of stock now. It's estimated that they will be ready at the end of next month.
It is looking like this might not be a one-off thing.
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Pinty did put some effort into the launch, even having their own videos of the products they were launching. The way they flew off the shelves was a good indicator they would thrive.
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Changing the name of the line to "P-Force" at this late date to me is an indicator that they plan to continue producing them. Why would they do that otherwise? The tactical was sold out before the name change.
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Waiting to see if tariffs affect prices.
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Maybe we ( GTA ) gave them the name.
I used it in the review - see attached screen print of my review.
Maybe you and we did! That's awesome. I feel one with the p-force [chuckling]
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Waiting to see if tariffs affect prices.
The carbine is still on sale. Like James, I have found mine to be very accurate with 18gr pellets. More accurate than the tactical one based on James test and what I've been seeing otherwise. Nice looking carbine too. Awesome trigger out of the box. Light and crisp.
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@ Back Roads (James)..
Those H&N Rabbit IIs are running 755 - 760 at 2100 on the reg, 3 hash marks and 3 on the wheel. They weigh 25.46.
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Thanks Bill!
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I contacted Huben and asked what was the maximum input pressure of the Power Cricket regulator, specifically the ones used in the Pinty P-Force tactical rifle.
This was their response:
HubenPower
The maximum input pressure of our regulator is 4500psi, however, the Pinty Tactical airgun may have some restrictions, please consult the person in charge of the Pinty Tactical airgun to confirm the details.
So now I have a contact message in to Pinty asking the actual max psi of the bottle. I am waiting for a response.
I don't know how to decipher the stamping on the bottle to feel comfortable determining max pressure myself.
Without just guessing, I wonder if anyone here knows.
If it turns out the bottle is limited to 3600 then replacing it with a 4500 psi bottle is doable.
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I personally do not trust those AL bottles past 3650. If planning to up the bottle capacity I would definitely go with a carbon fiber. As for what the guns internals can handle only Pinty can say, or someone takes one apart and specs it out. A 2200 reg set point is about as high as I would set the reg at also.
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Yep, I get that about max reg setting. I wouldn't push that too far either. My goal, if I go this route, would be increasing max fill pressure to increase shot count. Being that the max input on the reg has been confirmed by Huben then increasing the input to it should have zero affect on the internals of the gun beyond the reg.
Thank you for the reply James... I didn't take into account that the OEM bottle was aluminum.
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Anybody dabble in lowering the reg set point and seeing what power and shot count you can get?
The high set point on all these pinty's seems oddly high to me. Not complaining and will probably leave the good thing I got goin as is, but curious (and also famous last words sometimes [chuckling]).
Also, anybody try long range yet?
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I tried to increase the regulator to 22 mpa and the velocity drop to 600-700 fps.. Also I have a superwell that I tried to increase the pressure to 22mpa and the adjusting screw would fall out if increased more.. Nick from Huben power is sending me a cricket in it place.. I don't think there is enough hammer to open the valve all the way.. Anyone have any ideas..
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All I have adjusted thus far is the hammer spring wheel. I posted a spread sheet with my typical setting above.
Yesterday I shot a bunch of my cast NOE 217 24 RF Magnum pellets that weigh right in the 22.40gr. They are shooting very will with this gun which makes me a happy boy.
My typical range here at home is 40 - 45 yds but I do have a farm disc blade out at 80 yds and have no problem reaching out there with 1" give or take accuracy. That is with a 3.5 mildot holdover from my 40yd setpoint.
It still gives a nice "ring" through the woods.. I would say a well placed shot would be quite affective.. ;)
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Anybody dabble in lowering the reg set point and seeing what power and shot count you can get?
The high set point on all these pinty's seems oddly high to me. Not complaining and will probably leave the good thing I got goin as is, but curious (and also famous last words sometimes [chuckling]).
Also, anybody try long range yet?
Mine came set at 12.5 MPa (~1800psi)
Hammer spring is too strong -- velocity is the same at lowest 7 notches and increases slightly at 8th and 9th -- which I presume is due to hammer bounce.
At minimum spring setting CPHPs are getting ~970FPS, and I got 80 shots from 24MPa down to 12MPa.
If the spring were able to go lighter, I expect same/similar velocity and better shot count.
Precision is quite adequate -- got ~1/2" 5-shot group at 25 yards (AA18s) with unfixed trigger and non-parallax adjustable scope, so it has room to improve.
Regarding the tank, I believe the markings on mine say it is ok up to 30MPa (4350 psi) HOWEVER I am going to play it safer, and obey the manual which says 25MPa max fill (3600psi.)
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Troy
"Making up some M14x1 to 1/2-20 for the Pinty Tactical. Only the OD is blued. Everything else is covered so didn't see the need."
Any chance you can come up with something similar for the Prod?
JDE
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Troy
"Making up some M14x1 to 1/2-20 for the Pinty Tactical. Only the OD is blued. Everything else is covered so didn't see the need."
Any chance you can come up with something similar for the Prod?
JDE
P-rod already has many options for 1/2-20 threads.
My recommendation
https://donnyfl.com/products/marauder-pistol-prod-1-2-x-20-unf-adapter-with-thread-protector?srsltid=AfmBOoqKqpcoG8TQ68NwGd18XhxSzAkLKhRZI-RjJp5Zk7UV0ny1QgCS
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A lot of different size adapters here. It's where I got my Sumatra's M10 to 1/2-20UNF adapter
https://airguncapital.com/products/15-mm-1-2-20-unf-adapter?variant=45780014432308
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Well I upped my regulator and it slowed the pellet speed down.. What do I need to do to get the speed I want.. (900 with 22 gr)
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Pinty got back to me this morning and confirmed that the maximum safe fill pressure on the bottle is, in fact, 3600 psi. So I guess if I wanted to upgrade it I would need to get a different bottle. At this point, it's not worth the cost for the return.
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Pinty got back to me this morning and confirmed that the maximum safe fill pressure on the bottle is, in fact, 3600 psi. So I guess if I wanted to upgrade it I would need to get a different bottle. At this point, it's not worth the cost for the return.
And the wear on your compressor - going from 3000 to 4200 psi greatly increases the heat and wear on the compressor and on the gun internals.
I usually only pump my Avenger to 3000 psi and this P-Force to 20 mp ( approx 2900 psi ) and still get plenty of shots.
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LOL... as for compressors, I got a backup to the backup for the backup. ;)
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I tried to increase the regulator to 22 mpa and the velocity drop to 600-700 fps..
Well I upped my regulator and it slowed the pellet speed down.. What do I need to do to get the speed I want.. (900 with 22 gr)
Ray,
I think you need to set the regulator around 2000 PSI to get where you want to be. Tweak from there.
Setting at 22MPa is equal to 3191 PSI! (1MPa = 145 PSI) No wonder hammer spring can't crack it open.
Set for ~14MPa (~2000 PSI) on the regulator gauge and see how that flies.
Calculator Link below. (I personally prefer PSI, hate MPa, but trying to get used to using them)
https://www.unitconverters.net/pressure/megapascal-to-psi.htm
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Around 700 fps at 14 mpa...
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Well I upped my regulator and it slowed the pellet speed down.. What do I need to do to get the speed I want.. (900 with 22 gr)
Out of the Pinty guns I doubt you will see 900 fps with a 22 gr. projectile without practically building a new gun. They are maxed out in the 900s already with just a 14 gr pellet.
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LOL... as for compressors, I got a backup to the backup for the backup. ;)
Yep. And then as a last resort I have the old hand pump hiding in a corner somewhere.
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Around 700 fps at 14 mpa...
Around 700 fps at 14MPa with what weight of pellet?
Does the hammer spring adjustment have any effect now?
Do you trust your chronograph is correct?
I'm starting to wonder if mine is right -- at 12.5MPa (~1800psi), 14.3 grains, I'm seeing 970fps. Is that out of line? Looking at Bob Sterne's regulated PCP charts, he got 1100fps out of 14.3 grains at 2000psi, so my numbers seem achievable...
I do not have any alternate chronograph. I can fire lighter pellets and see at what reported velocity they go supersonic...
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Y'all seen this, right?
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I am believing that is all they have because of the short barrel... My Prochrony is right on and the power wheel is cranked all the way up... 22 gr AVS slugs .218.. JTS 16.08 gr 870 fps..
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My last outdoor outing with my P-Force, I experience random shots going off at about 1/2 power, I have not been able to replacate it over a crony, I suspect some internal binding or friction. or the way I hold the rifle in the wild ???
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Y'all seen this, right?
Thank you for the repost. Last night I was compiling everyone elses' results (including that one) and it looks like my reg gauge could be stuck (reading low) and/or my chrono reads high and/or my P-Force is the magic one. I vote for magic. I dare not disassemble it, or it might leak out. ;)
Someone said the chinese barrel mount chronys may read 10-15% high -- that's looking probable here.
I have not seen results that seem so suspect before though, and it seems unlikely it "just started doing this" out of the blue.
I may try a longer moderator than stock, maybe it's keying off condensing air, not the pellets.
Anyway, chrono speed verification is needed, then chase anything else.
Sorry, Ray, I saw a lot more power potential for you, based on what I was seeing on mine.
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Y'all seen this, right?
Thank you for the repost. Last night I was compiling everyone elses' results (including that one) and it looks like my reg gauge could be stuck (reading low) and/or my chrono reads high and/or my P-Force is the magic one. I vote for magic. I dare not disassemble it, or it might leak out. ;)
Someone said the chinese barrel mount chronys may read 10-15% high -- that's looking probable here.
I have not seen results that seem so suspect before though, and it seems unlikely it "just started doing this" out of the blue.
I may try a longer moderator than stock, maybe it's keying off condensing air, not the pellets.
Anyway, chrono speed verification is needed, then chase anything else.
Sorry, Ray, I saw a lot more power potential for you, based on what I was seeing on mine.
Maybe just bleed the air off the tank and shoot the reg out then refill from 0 might reset it.
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LOL... it really don't matter what gun I get out with plans to shoot for a long session I always end up with the P-Force Tactical in my hands before the session is over.
If I've ever owned a gun that would shoot anything I fed it as accurately as this one, I don't remember. Cast and from the tin it shoots them all.
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I shot mine out to 75 yards for a good 50 rounds today. I set out a couple of 3x5 metal plates with targets painted on them. I even think I nailed a bull on one. 8) The ones Below are just can bottom size for 100, I left the shot ones with smaller bulls, in the truck with a HOSP I shot too LOL
(https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/gallery/17377-080425210104.jpeg)
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Just reporting some user mistakes perhaps, I was having shots go off 1/2 power, only happened when out in the wild, not benched. I was in discussion with one of my UTube followers about theirs going off when closing the bolt ?
anywho I think I found the erratic power issue, the fore stock was not properly seated or torqued. All seems good now, still need to take it outside for proofing :)
Excerpt from my UTube, OK I did h it did it after I tried pulling the trigger with the bolt open, when I went to close the bolt it went off, good thing down range lol
I did find play in my trigger guard, and further investigation I found that I did not have the fore stock fully seated and screwed down. this fixed some wide velocity swings I had been seeing. All seems great again !
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Wow !
Sounds like these ZIP GUNS can be a Danger in Unexperienced Hands ?
Bill
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Or I am :)