Sheridan Late "C" model RE-Build

[cwlongshot]

Hello guys,

I had some time tonight so I pulled the stocks off and made the bolt tool form a 1/4''x1'' set screw and a couple nuts. Then removed the bolt and drilled and tapped the breech for a Williams peep.

Then I cleaned up the metal work and removed the safety and cap. Then spring and hammer. I watched a clip on UTube on making a Valve lock nut tool out of a 1/4'' bit extension. Worked perfectly!

Thats where I am stuck... I cannot get the insides of the valve out and I think I read of another tool to remove this... BUT cannot find how to make it.

This is a old rocker safety but as per the SN its a '82 gun and still has the soldered in valve.  SO I ordered the rebuild parts from MAC1 along with a FTP and some O rings I needed. Anyone know how quick/slow he ships? I know its a holiday weekend so likely it ain't moving till Tuesday at the earliest.

Tomorrow I will start the re-finish on the wood. I have another Marlin rifle pad. I have not yet decided if I will add it. I did last time because the stock was water damaged and I needed to trim off 1/4''. I DO like how it turned out so ill likely do another on this one.

Help is MOST appreciated! 

CW

[daveb50]

Sorry, can't help with the tool, but I did order secret sauce and o-rings from Tim. Placed the order late Sunday night, received it in Thursday's mail.

[Zippy]

One end of the tool has the square drive the other end is threaded to screw into the valve guts to pull them out.

[daveb50]

I did find this, hope it helps.
http://www.network54.com/Forum/275684/message/1177168737/sheridan+C9+rebuild

[Zippy]

Yep that's the strip down I used I can check the threaded end of the tool and give you size and pitch if you need then you can go to Casa deDepot and get some althread to use to pull the valve.

[Zippy]

If you order the kit from PA it comes with the tool

[cwlongshot]

I did find this, hope it helps.
http://www.network54.com/Forum/275684/message/1177168737/sheridan+C9+rebuild

Thanks again!  Good read! I ordered the tool (12$) from B&A.

If you order the kit from PA it comes with the tool

Yea I saw that Zippy, but its currently out of stock. (Thank you!)  As I mentioned, I prefer to support Timmy at MAC1. Who also has the kits in stock.
I
CW

[Zippy]

FYI the tool dia is .500 and it is drilled and tapped 1/4-28. Yes Tim is a good guy, got a Steriod Rocker myself.

[cwlongshot]

FYI the tool dia is .500 and it is drilled and tapped 1/4-28. Yes Tim is a good guy, got a Steroid Rocker myself.

WELL now.  I watched one crony test on U tube of both a std 'dan and Steroid 'dan over a chronograph. Not as much of a velocity gain as I expected. But still a nice improvement! Ill do mine same way once I get them both going!  Have you had yours over a crony?  I placed a order yesterday for some HVY Eun Jin pellets for it. PA has been unavailable for so long I went to straight shooters to get them.


I wish I knew the thread specs before placing the order...   I can make that NO PROBLEM!  The nut driver tool was cake to make. This will only be a tad harder! It will probably take me longer to find appropriate stock to use than it will to drill and tap a 14/28 hole! LOL  THANKS FOR POSTING!!!

OK UPDATE TIME!!

Today between jobs I was able to drill some 5/16 hard wood dowels and I plugged the butt plate screw holes I previously made.



Then I squared and trimmed the stock for the pad.




Then carefully measured and mounted the used Marlin pad. I had to be careful as it was real close to the same size as the Sheridan wood. I had to be sure it was overhanging all around or it would not come out right.



Then I completely sanded the stocks. I started with a orbital and 80g paper. Then all by hand, to 100g, then 150 then 220 and over to steel wool finishing with 0000 grade. Each time I whipped the wood with a damp cloth to raise the grain. (Whisker the wood)

This is right after the 100g




I was able to get two coats of TRU-Oil on today. The first just sucked right in and was dry to the touch in less than a hour. But I let it sit for about 4 hours before applying second coat before I left tonight.

This is a kinda crappy pic of one coat.



The wood really is a deep and rich brown color that I really like in Walnut. Usually I do at least 6 coats with steel wool between each. So for the next couple days I should get two coats a day with 12 hrs dry time between each.

Stay tuned...

CW

[daveb50]

Great work on the stock CW, I need to do that to the stock of the '68 I got, the original finish is worn in some areas. I found this old thread with some of Tim's wisdom on rebuild kit parts. About half way down the page.
http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=25123.0

[cwlongshot]

Great work on the stock CW, I need to do that to the stock of the '68 I got, the original finish is worn in some areas. I found this old thread with some of Tim's wisdom on rebuild kit parts. About half way down the page.
http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=25123.0

Thanks brother!!  I missed that one!!  GOOD, but a bit disparaging information about the lead in the threads...      I'll have to see what I can do about it... I can see something that looks like lead down in the tube. I wondered what it was...now I know.    It would break my heart to fudge up the threads in that valve... Timmy make it sound like a fools journey to even try. 

Hopefully I will have time to make the tool Zippy informed us about.

Stay tuned... 

CW

[cwlongshot]

I started pulling the action apart. I had to make a couple tools first.

1) Bolt nut removal tool. Made from a 1'' (Longer is fine) 1/4/20 set screw and two nuts threaded on the setscrew and jammed together. Then grind the threads down near the end so it fits in the hole where the bolt is.




2) I made a Valve nut tool form a cheap 1/4'' nut driver extension. First drill the 1/4'' hex with a 9/32'' bit. Then using a grinder grind flats to from a square. Be sure to leave the corners rounded. Not allot needs to be removed to make the flats.




3) The tool to remove the internals of the valve. Now this one I may have wrong... I drilled and tapped a piece of 1/2'' round stock 12'' long. Using a 1/4-28 tap. Then drilled a 1/4'' hole thru the other end for extra leverage.





I got all but the internals of the valve apart.





I need some clarification on the 1/4-28 tapped hole... My tool will not thread on. 

SO, I moved on the mounting the Williams Peep site I picked up off Ebay.





I ordered the Valve tool from B&A airguns and the valve and seal parts from Timmy over at MAC1 Airguns in California.

The tool is under accessories and scroll down to Benjamin / Sheridan

The seals and parts form Mac1. http://www.mac1airgunshop.com/rebuild-parts-s/1826.htm?searching=Y&sort=2&cat=1826&show=10&page=2

More when I get parts or figure out what I am doing wrong with my valve tool threads... 

CW

[cwlongshot]

FYI the tool dia is .500 and it is drilled and tapped 1/4-28. Yes Tim is a good guy, got a Steriod Rocker myself.

Zip,
 Can you double check the threads on your tool please? I made one, but it will not thread onto my part... Its not easy to see, but it appears bigger then 1/4''...





CW

[eeler1]

Going by memory, it is a 9/32" x 32 thread, good luck finding that at your ace hardware.  The tool you ordered will come with the threaded end.  Most soldered dans used a lead seal at the base of the valve body, then a synthetic seal between the valve and the retaining nut, or maybe it's vice versa.  But lots of people just use synthetic, I think thats how Mac1 kits come, and some even use o-rings.  In any event, you need to get all of the old seals out, after you pull the valve body, and get it all clean and smooth with no nicks or gouges and flat . 

[eeler1]

Actually, if it still pumps, you might be able to pressure the valve out, just put on end on a rag and pump away.  THe only thing holding in the valve at this point is the lead seal and/or years of accumulated gunk.

[SnoValley]

Actually, if it still pumps, you might be able to pressure the valve out, just put on end on a rag and pump away.  THe only thing holding in the valve at this point is the lead seal and/or years of accumulated gunk.

That was my suggestion too! if you've got the ring off the back of the valve just pump it with the butt end pointing at a box of rags...

[cwlongshot]

Thanks guys... 9/32-32 huh...  figures, thats $50 at my supplier...

Your right looks like the B&A tool will be my saving grace. 

I think the check valve is toast, or seal shot as it will not take any pump pressure. (But I did try. )

Guess I'll have to wait, no biggie really as I dont have parts yet anyhow. I just anted to get started and maybe clean things up for when parts arrived...

I was able to get another coat of TRU-Oil on the wood!

CW

[Zippy]

CW yep my bad put the calipers to it measured .255 looked at the threads with thread gage but hard to see called it 1/4-28. I was wrong figures they would use a toolmakers thread just like the peep bolt size. Old school. Again my bad.

[cwlongshot]

CW yep my bad put the calipers to it measured .255 looked at the threads with thread gage but hard to see called it 1/4-28. I was wrong figures they would use a toolmakers thread just like the peep bolt size. Old school. Again my bad.

NO WORRIES BROTHER!! 

Today I decided eight coats was enough. The stocks are done sans the final semi gloss rub down. But I have to let them fully cure first.

Here is what I have now, pretty good I think.







CW

[daveb50]

Those look great CW, I like the look with the butt pad on there.