Sheridan Late "C" model RE-Build

[OleTomCat]

Looks great man, is this the one that you loaned out and were waiting on it to return?

[cwlongshot]

Looks great man, is this the one that you loaned out and were waiting on it to return?

Thats the one Al!!

It was not in too bad condition. a couple dents and scratches but entirely serviceable. Accept the seals where shot, will not pump. I think its the check valve in the main valve.

I have a rebuild kit and the needed tool in route to me.

Stay tuned, I will outline the whole process here. 

CW

[Zippy]

CW you are certainly doing the old girl right, looks fine nice job on the butt pad too.

[OleTomCat]

I got mine tuned in with the JSB 13.7 exacts yesterday and I was thinking you know this thing would shoot a lot better if I had a nice butt plate to rest my shoulder on instead of this hunk of wood....

So looks like I am off in search of a suitable butt plate, where did you get yours?

[eeler1]

I like it too, I"m going to go thru my stuff and see if I have any old, excess butt plates or recoil pads.  Great job.

[cwlongshot]

I got mine tuned in with the JSB 13.7 exacts yesterday and I was thinking you know this thing would shoot a lot better if I had a nice butt plate to rest my shoulder on instead of this hunk of wood....

So looks like I am off in search of a suitable butt plate, where did you get yours?

I like it too, I"m going to go thru my stuff and see if I have any old, excess butt plates or recoil pads.  Great job.

Thank you again for the compliments! 

I have a ''few'' Marlin rifles.  The couple that I use allot are the same ones I load for, usually shoot and recoil a bit more.  So I put a Limb Saver, Grind to fit pad on them. SO I had a couple factory Marlin pads saved for just such a purpose.



If you cannot find any, look to Pachmayer for a ''rifle'' pad. The have a couple thin models like what I used. We know its not for recoil, b]ts simply to get a better shoulder plant for better ergonomics and over all better shooting.

CW

[cwlongshot]

I received the tool today form B&A... FAST DELIVERY!!!!

Waiting on parts...

CW

[Zippy]

Did you pull the guts yet?

[cwlongshot]

Did you pull the guts yet?

Why yes!  YES I did!

I THINK I have it all out...



Its not too dirty inside either...



I did find a bit of debris under the stem and a split Oring. Also the front spring is TOAST!! Feels like all the spring s outta it! LOL



It looks to me like there may be something in the valve body. I need to get a long pick and see what it is.

QUESTION, Is there anything to harm inside the valve? I mean to hose it out with brake cleaner or Gun scrubber? I wanna be sure things are squeaky clean... If no, what do you recommend?

CW

[OleTomCat]

I wouldn't use brake cleaner since it has a tendancy to eat O-rings...

[Zippy]

I'd stay away from the brake cleaner it can get on the tube and ruin the finish. I use...hate to speak these words...WD40. There I said it, about the only thing I will use it for is cleaning. It's a good degreaser then blow it out with air. Works on yellow jackets too. Marvel mystery oil works as a good cleaner let it soak for awhile mop it up blow it out.

[cwlongshot]

I'd stay away from the brake cleaner it can get on the tube and ruin the finish. I use...hate to speak these words...WD40. There I said it, about the only thing I will use it for is cleaning. It's a good degreaser then blow it out with air. Works on yellow jackets too. Marvel mystery oil works as a good cleaner let it soak for awhile mop it up blow it out.

Ooh MMO, for some reason I just never think of that! Even tho I have and use it allot!!!  Years back we mixed with with Kroil mad red juice or some such was its name... Worked real good for rusted bolts and the like.

Ok I'll soak it a while and see what I can blow out.

It almost looks like there is more in the valve!?!  I need to look at some exploded views to be sure. If what I see in there are prints I'm not so sure how to replace them...

CW

[Zippy]

I believe that is the soldered in part of the valve just get her clean and go! I do use a little silicon grease (cheap plumbers grease from casa dedepot) to lube everything up on install. And make sure you use Tim's secret sauce not pelgun oil. And after a few shots (50) reclean the barrel. Notice the two spring setup that's what makes them easier to  pump than the new one with a cartridge valve although the two spring mod will help with that.

[TimmyMac1]

When I ploish the intake seat I have a cratex stick in the end of a turning jig so I can reach inside the tube to polish while the turning jig acts as a pilot to keep the alignment proper. Once the seat looks good I put a piece of Cleaning patch over the cratex and use it to clean out the abrasive debris and any residual goo. Once the seat is polished and the valve clean it is ready to pack the new parts.
On an 80's vintage (round top breech)Rockers I would more often use the exhaust valve that comes out of the gun rather than the new parts as that is going to be a far superior part to what the factory has turned out in the last few decades. The saying they don't last like they used to would be fair. The one that was in there is a 40 year part. The replacement barely 5 so it is always prudent to leave what is in there in there as it will out last what they make now several times over even tho it is already 20+ YO. The factory made a very good part in the 80's. Probably the best they ever did if you don't count the single port Hold downs. Those intakes and exhausts were the factories best of the best(design and materials) and are only now rivalled by the Steroid parts for toughness.
I great deal of sludge biulds up in the pump tubes of these olod guns and you need to make sure you have all the goo cleaned out of the pump tube before proceeding to the valve packing. Intakes available run the whole gammut. If the Intake seal is the Factory unit be aware that the final crimping of that part is neccessary to see any measure of success with the factory Intake. It is now discontunued. They can be made fairly reliable in most cases if they are final formed as the early Benjy Intakes were made. For the last 5-6 years of Intake Seal Production (part #10010) the part was notr finsished by Crosman and only those that were formed so the edges of the intake cup were turned inboard to capture the seal and keep it from poping out of the cup (when air gets behind the seal and blows it out).
The Mac1 Intake completely eliminates that posibility with a Teflon(PTFE) solid one piece intake(check) valve. That is the go to part for all rebuilds now since it was the only one in production when the factory stopped making the 10010. I've been using it in my standard repairs for years now and it is the Only thing we've used in Steroids for over a decade.

TimmyMac1

[cwlongshot]

Thanks guys!

Thank you ESP Tim! I was hoping you would post up!

I read previous posts of yours warning your parts are better and why!  I did order mine from you!

Roger on cleanly ness!!  Will make it clean before any new parts go in!

Hopefully I will have this back to shooting soon after your parts arrive as ill be ready for them to go in very soon. Doing this shows me just what's into your rebuilds. I'm glad I'm doing it if only for that!  I will shoot the steroid your building for me now a bit before I decide if you get this one or the Benji 342 I just picked up.  My single reservation is my wife's lack of strength. She likes to shoot too and I'm hoping she is able to pump the stockers. Time will tell but I'm doubtful as even my flat top 1377 is too much for her past 3-4 strokes.  She may be stuck with a CO2 or PCP gun. (GOTTA keep momma happy ya know!!)

Anyhow, tonight ill pull the pump arm and piston and clean everything spice and span!

I really very much appreciate all comments and pointers!!

CW

[OleTomCat]

CW, my steroid Dan is very easy to pump to 3 or 4 pumps and it would be even easier with the Billet extension...

At my current zero 10yds/4pumps the gun is dead on and smacks with authority...

[cwlongshot]

CW, my steroid Dan is very easy to pump to 3 or 4 pumps and it would be even easier with the Billet extension...

At my current zero 10yds/4pumps the gun is dead on and smacks with authority...

That's good to hear!  Hopefully she will be able to do it!

I was just thinking about that front spring in the valve. It has no spring remaining!!  I do not know but hope a new on will be in the re build kit!!  If no, I will need advice on a replacement.

CW

[cwlongshot]

OK, I got home and Timmy had the rebuild parts in my mail box!  THANK YOU TIM!!

Now once I degrease and clean I'll be ready for assembly... BUT...

The small spring in my valve looks TOAST!!! Its got little to NO spring left. Its even flattened looking. The kit dosen't include springs... what will be an acceptable replacement?



ALSO, I had TWO brass washers between the springs... What I read says there should be ONE and sometimes NONE. I am going to assume I install ONE...

Also The kit has the Derlin/Nylon check valve. (Very first part to go in valve and last to come out) I seen to recall Tim saying something about needing to ''cut'' the seat to use this???

I am REAL close to shooting my baby now!! 

THANKS GUYS!!

CW

[daveb50]

CW, hopefully someone with more specific knowledge of these old valves will reply. As for the two washers in yours, here is one that had three (almost to the bottom of the page).
http://anotherairgunblog.blogspot.com/search/label/sheridan?updated-max=2013-01-20T20:16:00-08:00&max-results=20&start=4&by-date=false

When I did the two spring mod on the newer, removable valve for my '97 I went to the hardware store for a spring.  I found one the same OD as the newer spring, but .032 coil dia., I clipped it so that when installed in the valve behind the intake, it compressed about 1/4" when the washer behind it was pushed down to it's seat. It has worked out well, having about the same pump tension as the '68 with soldered valve I have.

[cwlongshot]

I had a complete outline of the days events typed and ready to post... Then my ''lovely''  keyboard highlighted the entire page and when I hit period...at the end. It was gone and I only had the period.    Sorry, I am not typing it up again...

Basically, I had difficulties from the get go.  I did get it back together and I have shot about 20-30 times.  It leaks after I open the pump to make another stroke. Sometimes it leaks all the air. Other times it leaks just a tiny bit and after 6 pumps it dosen't leak at all. Then I pumped it up 8 times and let it sit for about 4 hours. I just shot it, twice. It looks to be holding air pretty well. 
  I tired my crony, but was not enough light indoors. I will set it up outside tomorrow and see what I get for numbers before and after sitting for a while.  If I pump quickly it gets hard to pump so I know I am able to pressurize the valve and it dose hold some of the air.

Long story short, I suggest you don't attempt unless you have the the time, GOOD light and plenty of Patience. 

At least I can shoot and enjoy it. I will wait till I get my Steroid back from Tim @ Mac1 and probably just send this one off to him as well. Let the Master do his magic and I'll get to live a bit longer with less stress. 

OOH yea, One more thing. I really HATE when this happens... extra parts!  This one came in the repair kit, I did not take anything like this out of the gun and I have NO IDEA where it may go. It looks to be made if steel, approximately 1/4'' in diameter and just a bit taller than that. I wish Tim had included some instructions with the kit...




OK Well, its back together.... Its not right, it does work, but it still leaks at the check valve when pumped... 

I have new found respect for people repairing these guns!  You need GOOD light and proper tools and PATIENCE! I'm lacking in that last regard. 





Good things.. Well it shot 1'' to the right of aiming point and drilled a 30cal hole in my 25' basement range.  It was nice to shoot the old girl again. 

CW