It is a good idea to make a test print of the mod's thread, to check the fit before spending the time and materials on the complete mod. The fit will vary, depending on printer, settings and material; and the male thread spec involved. To facilitate tuning of this mod's mounting thread, I have attached a sliced part, containing the thread from the second mod, I posted above.If the test print is too tight on your barrel or threaded stud, then scale the X and Y axis in the slicer to 101 percent to increase the diameter, and print again. If the thread test print is looser than than you want, then scale the X and Y axis down to 99 percent. Do not scale the Z axis off 100 percent or the thread pitch will be incorrect.My advice would be for a slightly tight thread, that you chase with a tap. If you don't have a tap, scaling the thread diameter is a viable option. A slightly tight thread can be formed with the barrel or stud thread by adding some grease between parts, and winding the mating parts back and forth until the threads mate fully.
Quote from: subscriber on March 17, 2025, 12:29:17 AMIt is a good idea to make a test print of the mod's thread, to check the fit before spending the time and materials on the complete mod. The fit will vary, depending on printer, settings and material; and the male thread spec involved. To facilitate tuning of this mod's mounting thread, I have attached a sliced part, containing the thread from the second mod, I posted above.If the test print is too tight on your barrel or threaded stud, then scale the X and Y axis in the slicer to 101 percent to increase the diameter, and print again. If the thread test print is looser than than you want, then scale the X and Y axis down to 99 percent. Do not scale the Z axis off 100 percent or the thread pitch will be incorrect.My advice would be for a slightly tight thread, that you chase with a tap. If you don't have a tap, scaling the thread diameter is a viable option. A slightly tight thread can be formed with the barrel or stud thread by adding some grease between parts, and winding the mating parts back and forth until the threads mate fully.I printed your test, vertically, then tried it on a metal 1/2-20 barrel adapter. It is possible to get it to screw on using channel locks, with the metal barrel adapter effectively tapping the threading into the plastic. Not "easy" but manageable with some brute force. A 1/2-20 UNF bolt with a ratchet and a pair of channel locks or vise to hold the moderator and a horizontally printed moderator's threading could be tapped. Actually the hardest part of printing that moderator horizontally is dialing in the supports needed to get the support off cleanly and easily or making a decent enough brim. The support I had printed, before I stopped the print in order to try out the test print, was attached far too strongly and would have left a big ugly patch on a completed print. I made some huge adjustments to the support section of Orcslicer and the test print came off much easier.
Come on now guys. Go to the hardware store buy a 1/2 x 20 unf bolt. Take a small square or triangular file and "notch" the corner of the tip of the bolt about 3 mm deep. Just a little notch to create an edge on the first two or three threads. Use it like a tap.One and done...
A 1/2-20 UNF bolt with a ratchet and a pair of channel locks or vise to hold the moderator and a horizontally printed moderator's threading could be tapped.
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