Daisy Powerline 426 suppressor silencer .stl file for 3d printing

[subscriber]

 

[Mel]

Hi subscriber! Rail is too tight, piece broke. Bore is almost aligned, or mightbe it is because of broken piece although i attached it hard and tight , i think even less than 1mm would work. See pictures:

[Mel]

I measured, it is less than 1mm, divided by 2, it is bringing center down 0.5mm
Besides, piece broke at rail base when dettaching from printer, maybe 100% fill there would help. Thanks!!

[subscriber]

Thanks, Mel

I will shift the rail to bore by 0.5 mm.

I will have to guess at how much clearance the rail needs.

Yes, this part need 100% infill.

[Mel]

Thanks, Mel

I will shift the rail to bore by 0.5 mm.
Thanks subscriber! I think 0.4 or 0.5 will be enough

I will have to guess at how much clearance the rail needs.
I think reducing all the rail line by 0.3 or 0.5 might work, i mean making bigger gap by 0.3 or 0.5,  then i test again.

Yes, this part need 100% infill.
I mean infill only 1 or 2mm above and under the plane line where rail starts from piece.
As piece broke there, i glued it trying my best to keep the very same position as original, i think it is not the cause of misalignment, i hope
It is true that i chose fast printing for the test piece, maybe if i choose standard or optimize printing, piece won't break...

Thanks again for your patience and work!

[Mel]

I now see that my test print did "fill density 15%", maybe 80 or 90% will make harder piece and won't break in the middle, i might then use this setting with your next "aligned and not so tight" test piece

[subscriber]

I am busy verifying the changes between version 1 and two.  So will send the update files over in the next 15 minutes or so.

These parts generally have thin walls and should be printed at 100% infill.  The rail "legs" are highly stressed and should not be weakened to save material, cost or print time.

[subscriber]

Version 2 of the rear moderator section (and its short test piece) have the following changes:

The rails are moved down by 0.5 mm relative to the barrel center axis on the rear moderator body.

The rail profile is slimmed down by 0.25 mm at all contact faces.  This means that the space between rails is 0.5 mm wider than on version 1.

It is possible that slimming out the rails will add to the 0.5 mm lowering of the rail, so that a 0.25 lifting of the rail will be required to fix it...

[Mel]

I am busy verifying the changes between version 1 and two.  So will send the update files over in the next 15 minutes or so.
I hope im not bothering you

These parts generally have thin walls and should be printed at 100% infill.  The rail "legs" are highly stressed and should not be weakened to save material, cost or print time.
Sorry for that, im completely new at this, now i know how to change setting to 100% infill

Version 2 of the rear moderator section (and its short test piece) have the following changes:
WOW again!
The rails are moved down by 0.5 mm relative to the barrel center axis on the rear moderator body.
We'll see if it is too much, added to rail reduction, exciting!
The rail profile is slimmed down by 0.25 mm at all contact faces.  This means that the space between rails is 0.5 mm wider than on version 1.
Great, i see you made suppressor rail smaller to give more space to the gun rail
It is possible that slimming out the rails will add to the 0.5 mm lowering of the rail, so that a 0.25 lifting of the rail will be required to fix it...
Just when finished printing i'll report!

Thanks again for all Mr. subscriber!

[subscriber]

Mel,

When I offer to help someone, I am taking on the work that goes with that.  The trial fit method often requires a number of iterations.  So, no, you are not bothering me.

Being new at printing means there are a lot of options and variables unfamiliar to you.  No shame in that.  The tricky aspect is that the dimensions of your print depend on the printer, material, and settings.  This means that parts that fit well off one printer, may not fit off another printer.

If you want to be able to print any reasonably designed part on the internet, you should check the calibration on your printer.  I created a few test parts that might help you to verify that a 20 mm part in CAD prints close to 20 mm.  Square, flat and hollow or round parts do not print the same, so you might want to print at least know what offsets you might have to deal with.  If the errors are large, you may want to calibrate your printer.  Certainly if you have a percentage dimensional error you should calibrate it out.  If all your parts are 0.1 mm wide or narrow, just knowing about it may be enough to design extra clearance or engagement into parts, in CAD.

Test prints can be found here:  https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=204046.0

[subscriber]

Mel,

I was trying figure out if you are up early or late.  I did not know that Spain spans several time zones, but uses only one.  The same time zone as South Africa, where I grew up and still have some family living there.

It is hard to figure out what time zone I am in now, as I am retired, and no one nags me to get up or go to bed.

[Mel]

Mel,

I was trying figure out if you are up early or late.  I did not know that Spain spans several time zones, but uses only one.  The same time zone as South Africa, where I grew up and still have some family living there.

It is hard to figure out what time zone I am in now, as I am retired, and no one nags me to get up or go to bed.

Good morning to everyone!
Hi subscriber, I wake up at 6:20 am everyday, even weekends
But today, like many other days, i woke up at 4am and learned about printing infilling
Now it is 8am, im entering work, hace a great day!

[Mel]

Hi subscriber!
Now it is aligned although still a little too tight
Maybe 0.25 more space? I think alignment would admit it even without changes...
I stopped printing before it finished as it had enough rail for testing...
I don't know why it still breaks in the middle if i chose 100% infill and piece is really hard... I see thats the weakest part
Maybe if i select infill in triangles instead of lines or something like that...

[subscriber]

Mel,  that is useful info.  Especially, the picture of the rail print place on the front of the pistol, so the rail to rail fit can be see.

I will add a bit more space, and enlarge the fillets at the point where the "legs" are breaking off.

[subscriber]

Updated print files with more space in the rails are attached:

[subscriber]

You could try more "wall layers" - those follow the outside shape of the part.  Also try different pattern infill.

What material are you using?  Are you running it hot enough?  One can judge the latter by looking to see if fractures are between layers, or breaking filament material.  Layer separation suggests inadequate welding; and possibly running too cold.

I would not change too many things at one, before you have a good fit.  Materials can shrink differently on cooling with different settings, and upset the fit.

Hi subscriber!
Now it is aligned although still a little too tight
Maybe 0.25 more space? I think alignment would admit it even without changes...
I stopped printing before it finished as it had enough rail for testing...
I don't know why it still breaks in the middle if i chose 100% infill and piece is really hard... I see thats the weakest part
Maybe if i select infill in triangles instead of lines or something like that...

[Mel]

Mel,  that is useful info.  Especially, the picture of the rail print place on the front of the pistol, so the rail to rail fit can be see.
Thanks!, good to know

I will add a bit more space, and enlarge the fillets at the point where the "legs" are breaking off.

You could try more "wall layers" - those follow the outside shape of the part.  Also try different pattern infill.

What material are you using?
im using PLA
Are you running it hot enough?
205°C
One can judge the latter by looking to see if fractures are between layers, or breaking filament material.  Layer separation suggests inadequate welding; and possibly running too cold.
Appart from the rail breaking, the piece is really hard and resistant

I would not change too many things at one, before you have a good fit.  Materials can shrink differently on cooling with different settings, and upset the fit.

Here are my last print settings, maybe you can give me advice what to modify:

[subscriber]

As strange as it may seem, I do not consider myself a print setup expert, because I have only an old printer that I have not used in years.  My designs are printed mainly by other people.  They provide me with feedback to improve the parts when they print and use them.  One forum member has printed hundreds of my designs and he produces parts that are strong and that are very close to size where it counts.  I will ask him to look at your settings and see if he wants to offer advice.

PLA is very strong and stiff, but it is also rather brittle.  That should not be a problem for your Daisy project.  For more potent airguns I would suggest PETG.

[Mel]

Im now printing test piece changing this:
"Shell thickness" from 1,2 to 2,5 (maybe this is the most important)
Again, 100% infill

I'll report!

[TorqueMaster]

... One forum member has printed hundreds of my designs and he produces parts that are strong and that are very close to size where it counts.  I will ask him to look at your settings and see if he wants to offer advice...

Mel,
Your setting generally look ok for PLA.  It is sometimes difficult to get good layer adhesion on PLA, I think that is what you are encountering.  On the side view it looks a a bit more like a flakey biscuit than a solid hunk.   Is it a good brand of filament/a new roll?  If it has absorbed water from the air it gets more brittle, and adhesion may suffer.    I've wasted a lot of time trying to get no-name PLA to print decently -- some absolutely will not print well  -- so just know sometimes it is not your printer and it is not you -- some filament is just junk, and there's always another brand to try.

Since the printer is new, did you do an extrusion calibration to verify that when 100mm of filament is requested, 100mm of filament gets used?  It looks like it's pretty good overall -- not under-extruded -- but worth checking.

Once calibrated, did you run any temperature towers?  Print the same small structures at multiple temperatures (keep your speed and layer height constant) to see what temperature that filament likes best -- as far as bridging quality, surface quality, and really important --  layer adhesion.   See if they want to flake apart at the layer lines with a thumbnail or dull knife -- they should not. 

Ideally you'd do that for every filament, but once you get an idea what works for one PLA, it's a good starting point for other PLAs.

Not required, but a heated bed around 50C may help some.   I'd stray away from using rafts -- wastes time and materials -- unless you really need them to get good bed adhesion.

All that said, from what I can see, the shortcut is to just try hotter  -- try 210 and see if layer adhesion improves.  215 and 220 are fair game too, but not much more than that on PLA.  At some point, it will get too runny/stringy and no amount of retraction will be enough to stop it.  They say PLA needs full fan -- but it depends on how strong the fan is -- anywhere from 50-100% is probably ok to try.  But mess with that AFTER trying hotter nozzle --  only adjust one parameter at a time or you may be chasing your tail trying to figure out why the print got better or worse.

Good luck, have fun.