Crosman 362 .177 project

[Spooner]

I am just getting things together at this point. The Rifle is supposed to be here Tomorrow from Pyramid and the Disco barrel is coming from Alliance Hobby. Probably a couple weeks on the Barrel. Now that the original 362 is so cheap to buy, I will do one in .177 as an FT setup. Once I receive it, I will tear it down and debur everything.

I want to give a big Thank you to Tack Driver 10 for sending me his unused FT piston, spacer for the pump arm and the pump tube, as well as some backup parts he sent me. Without the piston and the spacers, I never would have even bothered with doing this. Thank you Ron! 

I have most of the bits and pieces taken from a build that I was not happy with or was just sitting in my parts box. A Crosman 3-12x44 scope will be on this rifle.


This is one of the barrel bands that I modified. I shaped and installed a metal threaded T-nut from the inside of the band. This eliminates the metal set screw to plastic thread design the Crosman used and will never wear out. I have one of these in steel, and another with a Brass T-nut. Tack Driver 10 made the brass T-nuts and sent them to me. I will use his with the Brass.


As stated, this is the FT setup with Rons FT piston. The valve is low volume using a 760 check valve and lighter valve spring.


Some of these are parts I reclaimed from the 1322 build that I was not happy with. Spacers are from Ron's re-purposed 362. I made the hammer spring adjuster and used a bolt cap pressed onto a threaded Allen head bolt. This is just big enough to be useable without interfering with the hand when gripping the stock... The same as my .22 362.


Notched out the rear of the stock with a Dremel and barrel band to allow for clearance of the hammer spring adjuster bolt.


This MAP trigger was a little "Choppy" when I tried it on my original 362 build. I reworked it a little and added in the Sear adjustment screw. I think it will be ok now and will give it a try on this new build. The MAP trigger is not plug and play with the 362. I had to locate the mounting hole, then drill and tap it in order for it to be compatible with the 362.

I ordered a medium Limbsaver stock sleeve. They are perfect for this rifle, look very good, and add a little LOP.  A 5" TKO moderator is also on the way. 

More later as I progress. 

[Tack Driver 10]

Looks like a sweet build you have going on.
I converted my 3622 to 17 cal recently.
Nice to see those parts being put to good use.
Will be following this thread and nice pictures.

[Spooner]

Looks like a sweet build you have going on.
I converted my 3622 to 17 cal recently.
Nice to see those parts being put to good use.
Will be following this thread and nice pictures.

These parts will be very happy in their new home  . I am looking forward to seeing what kind of power this one will deliver in .177 as an FT setup. My hope is 500 fps at 3 pumps. My .22 does 505 at 4 pumps with a non FT setup and normal volume valve, so it isn't unreasonable to hope for.

The 362 is out for delivery. It will be very interesting  to see what serial number it is and whether or not it has the green booger in the hammer spring, lol.

Yesterday, I graphite coated the hammer that I flatsided and peened the hammer pin to remove the slop, so that is ready.

[Spooner]

My 362 has arrived and this is so strange...

There are clearly some low numbers still out there! I bought my first one a few months after release and got #806. This one a couple years later is #90. 

Time to start tearing it down! 

[Nukall856]

Spooner,
 Man #90!!! Coooool.
 I had thoughts not long ago on getting a 3rd C362,, thinking of a low Serial # and wanting a C362 thatl shoot light fit pellets <13gr-14.5gr, my other two C362 need heavy wide head pellets 15.4-21gr.
 I had #430 with an 18" .177 barrel, very good but I chose the power and wind resistance of the .22. It was abit loud at 8 pumps having no room for a LDC.
 But .. I want,, not need ,, need to make more room for More Airguns XD XP
ExcellentWork Spooner

NVak

[Spooner]

Spooner,
 Man #90!!! Coooool.
 I had thoughts not long ago on getting a 3rd C362,, thinking of a low Serial # and wanting a C362 thatl shoot light fit pellets <13gr-14.5gr, my other two C362 need heavy wide head pellets 15.4-21gr.
 I had #430 with an 18" .177 barrel, very good but I chose the power and wind resistance of the .22. It was abit loud at 8 pumps having no room for a LDC.
 But .. I want,, not need ,, need to make more room for More Airguns XD XP
ExcellentWork Spooner

NVak

It was a nice surprise, but it didn't surprise me. Bill and others are right about how the skids are loaded and the latest ones going out to retailers first. It is pretty safe to say that there are quite a few low numbered ones still out there waiting to be bought. 

[Spooner]

I am about 80% now. There was no green booger in the hammer spring and the burr on this one was not nearly as bad as my first 362. I had some problems with the Alchemy "longer/stronger" hammer spring binding so put the original hammer spring back in. With the hammer spring adjuster in, I can change the strength easily enough. The Valve has a lighter spring in it so this combination will work out well. The Magnum trigger pack feels good, and I am going to stick with it. I pumped the rifle up 8 pumps and there was no retained air after discharge... good to go. 


I saw in another post recently where someone found one of these valves inside of their guns. This 362 had one in it as well. It is an odd-looking thing and not sure what Crosman's idea behind it is? I mean, how is the front trigger screw supposed to hold the valve from moving riding in a channel that wide??? Very odd.


I am in wait mode now. Waiting for the barrel from Alliance. I still have to decide whether I will use the original transfer port or go with poly tubing. I have time to decide that though.

[Back_Roads]

 Don't let the low numbers fool you, the first digits on the first run was 21 there must be a year code also up front.

[Spooner]

Don't let the low numbers fool you, the first digits on the first run was 21 there must be a year code also up front.

You are correct James . My original was 021P00806, year 2021. This one is N23P00090, year 2023, I missed that. There may be some first run guns still out there, but mine is not one of them. 

[Back_Roads]

Don't let the low numbers fool you, the first digits on the first run was 21 there must be a year code also up front.

You are correct James . My original was 021P00806, year 2021. This one is N23P00090, year 2023, I missed that. There may be some first run guns still out there, but mine is not one of them. 

Yeah I got to thinking I had 21  #99 years ago what are the chances LOL

[Tack Driver 10]

I am about 80% now. There was no green booger in the hammer spring and the burr on this one was not nearly as bad as my first 362. I had some problems with the Alchemy "longer/stronger" hammer spring binding so put the original hammer spring back in. With the hammer spring adjuster in, I can change the strength easily enough. The Valve has a lighter spring in it so this combination will work out well. The Magnum trigger pack feels good, and I am going to stick with it. I pumped the rifle up 8 pumps and there was no retained air after discharge... good to go. 


I saw in another post recently where someone found one of these valves inside of their guns. This 362 had one in it as well. It is an odd-looking thing and not sure what Crosman's idea behind it is? I mean, how is the front trigger screw supposed to hold the valve from moving riding in a channel that wide??? Very odd.


I am in wait mode now. Waiting for the barrel from Alliance. I still have to decide whether I will use the original transfer port or go with poly tubing. I have time to decide that though.

Here's the post:
https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=211509.msg156493158#msg156493158

Seems at one point Crosman switched the front trigger frame screw attachment.
The later versions thread into the tube and the early version attaches to the valve as it has in the past.
I believe they did this to eliminate the clocking issue with the valve.

I ordered 4 362 tubes last year, all made in 2022 and they are the early unthreaded tube version.
My original 362 021P886 is also the early version.

I like the original version and thread in a long 8-32 set screw into the valve and use a nut.

[Spooner]

Thanks Ron, That was the post I was talking about. Here is the interesting part. Yes, my 13xx FT valve went in and the hole aligned correctly with the threaded hole in the pump tube so I mounted the trigger using the OEM front trigger screw that came with the original trigger. I was dry firing it, working out the hammer spring binding issue when I noticed that every time the hammer made contact with the valve, the valve moved forward enough that the valve TP port was slightly forward of the pump tube TP hole? The front trigger screw was clearly not far enough in the valve to prevent its movement, if it was even in at all? I had to dig through my trigger frame screws but luckily found a longer one that was long enough to go into the valve which stopped the valve from moving forward. Had I not been resolving the hammer spring issue, chances are I never would have known the valve was moving forward.

So, if the original screw does not engage the original "channeled" valve, what keeps it from moving?

Before I do final assembly, I will take out the FT valve and check it. The longer screw went in, the valve is not moving, and it is pumping pressure fine, but when it went in, it felt as if there was a little resistance.

Edit: I just finished checking the front trigger/valve screw. It's fine. Goes far enough in to secure the valve without bottoming out. I also gave it 10 pumps and checked for retained air... no retained air. I will say this... past 7 pumps with this low volume valve is a workout! 

[Tack Driver 10]

Ideally you should enlarge the tube opening so the screw threads only engage the valve.
It may work if the tube and valve threads are in sync. if you're lucky.
The screw and tube are made of steel and the valve is aluminum.
So more than likely the valve will be the fall guy.
It's like airgun rock, paper, scissors.....LOL

[Spooner]

Ideally you should enlarge the tube opening so the screw threads only engage the valve.
It may work if the tube and valve threads are in sync. if you're lucky.
The screw and tube are made of steel and the valve is aluminum.
So more than likely the valve will be the fall guy.
It's like airgun rock, paper, scissors.....LOL

I got lucky  . The threads were so close in sync that the screw only had to realign on the first thread of the valve. I found one thin small strand of aluminum in the valve thread hole. The screw goes through both now smoothly. 

[Spooner]

I made a valve change...


Tack Driver 10 made this valve for me to try in this build. This is a low volume, lighter spring, "Zero Headspace" three-piece brass valve ported for ice maker tube. This valve is amazing! Thank you very much Ron! 

I took it to 10 pumps and discharged it. No retained air and the pump arm is at about 40 degrees at 8 pumps... perfect! 

My Disco .177 barrel will be here from Alliance Hobby tomorrow. I hope to get some chrony readings in the next few days.

[Spooner]

My barrel didn't make it today. USPS  shows it moving, but arriving late. 

[Spooner]

I forgot to add...

Do you all remember the "green booger"? That highly coveted, unique and rare piece of Crosman engineering. Ron had his original one, undamaged, included with the valve he sent. I almost Ebay'd it to get myself some fortune and fame but ultimately decided to use it. Yes, that's correct... I put it in the rifle, lol. 

[Back_Roads]

 I have no clue where my green boogers went

[avator]

I still have both of mine.... somewhere.   

[Spooner]

I still have both of mine.... somewhere.   

I have no clue where my green boogers went

You both might just be sitting on a small fortune there, hahaha!

I actually liked how it snapped into the spring nice and secure. It probably isn't meant to have a spring adjuster riding behind it, but I am going to try and use it. If it fails, I will go back to my brass guide. It is easy enough to switch out.