This all great info -- the lack of precision manufacturing of the casing is disturbing, and will affect barrel alignment with any baffles. So a bigger bore size may be needed... for starters.I found a teardown elsewhere, where they removed the casing. Not pretty. It *appears* the casing is molded onto the barrel. The end of the barrel has circular grooves, and these grooves have snap-rings installed, then the casing is molded on, the snap rings embedded into the casing plastic during the process. Casing not reusable after destructive removal.The barrel size OD is reported at 11.95mm-ish. If a baffle assembly were to (and able to) reach down to the barrel itself...
100% infill is a big time killer. I very rarely use it. For increased strength it's more effective to add perimeters rather than infill. For this print I used my standard settings, 0.2mm layers, 3 perimeters, 20% infill, 0.4mm nozzle. The outer wall will be solid on this print with these settings. I used the same settings on the moderator for my Raptor which outputs 3x the power of the Notos.
My printer is the FLSUN QQS and I had chosen the Fine Setting. On the Normal setting it estimates just over 3 hours. When I choose fine with 100% fill it jumps to 11 hours and 35 minutes, but the actual print only tool 10 hours and 16 minutes.I think Peter had recommended using 100% infill density, that's why I changed it.
In my experience on my printer, petg didn't print well at 0.1mm. This design does not have very fine details, in my opinion 0.1 is not necessary. I found it best to use 0.2mm for the first layer always, even if going finer on the other layers. Sometimes it is called walls instead of perimeters. I'm not sure about line width, it could be the same thing. Change it to 1mm and check the slicer output. You'll be able to see if it is doing multiple perimeters. Which slicer do you use?Somewhere in the slicer settings there must be a nozzle size. The slicer has to know it, and the number should be set to match the nozzle size you have. 0.4mm is the most common. I use 60 bed, 240 nozzle. I don't trust my nozzle temp sensor though, it is probably not accurate. I set it based on how it feels pushing filament through by hand.
Quote from: Rat Sniper (AKA: PaulT58) on April 13, 2023, 08:50:41 AMMy printer is the FLSUN QQS and I had chosen the Fine Setting. On the Normal setting it estimates just over 3 hours. When I choose fine with 100% fill it jumps to 11 hours and 35 minutes, but the actual print only tool 10 hours and 16 minutes.I think Peter had recommended using 100% infill density, that's why I changed it.Paul, what slicer are you using? Ideally, you should have separate control over speed, layer height, infill density, etc, rather than using a pre-set mode that may be overkill in some areas.This is not a complicated part, 0.20mm layers should be fine. Most of the structures are pretty thin, I doubt you'll see much time savings from using less than 100% infill, so personally I'd stay there. Print speed depends on what your printer and filament can handle before prints start getting "ugly" or "sloppy" looking -- I use 25 - 30 mm/s for clean looking petg prints. By using the 0.10mm layers, you essentially doubled print time vs.using 0.20mm layers, that's why it took as long as it did. No harm though, it should look great, work fine, and may be a bit stronger for the extra time spent.
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