NEW Crosman 362

[Wayne52]

Last I heard was Crosman was still making all their srews and bolts in house yet. 

[TKO22]

Thank you for posting that! Do you file the "tall side" of the port to make it shorter? I don't have any machining tools. Next time I have the breech off I'll be using the glue, it sounds like a much easier process. Today while I'm picking up some rear breech screws at the hardware store I'll snag some clamps and glue.

Do not shorten the TP.

I don't glue.   There will be a modest improvement with glue or other sealant around the taper at the long (barrel side) part of the TP.

 
There might be a modest improvement with glue or other sealant but is really unnecessary as long as it is assembled correctly. Shortening the TP would be problematic, it would create a leak space therefore a need to seal it somehow. The TP is not too long it is made to fit into the recessed hole in the barrel, thus shortening the TP would also make it easier for the barrel to rotate out of alignment.

This is the way I did it when assembly-after-resealing/tuning 1-2 Crosman and or Discovery rifles and pistols a week for a ~6 year span... That's a bunch of guns! Shortening the TP by a couple thou won't hurt a thing when glued in, and will help eliminate the forward upward tipping of the breech ... which Spacebus is now seeing on his gun with his alu breech.

Lots of ways to skin a cat, and I didn't have any cats complain!

Mike T.
TKO

[Tack Driver 10]

I use 3145 RTV, just not so much.

[Wayne52]

I've set tissue paper on mine right next to where the breech is with 8 pumps it doesn't even move the tissue at all.  I doubt I'll ever be using glue on mine, it's going to stay the way it is.

[avator]

No glue here either.. If I ever feel the need to do a TP mod it will be the ice maker tube.
Pull the seal out of the tube, put the TP in it and measure it with the calipers. Then cut the ice maker tube to the same length.
To install a stock tp..
I put the barrel in the breech and align the tp, breech and barrel then tighten the set screw.
Next I fit the breech on the tube aligning the tp and tube and put the small screw in only hand tight.
Next I put the rear screw in and crank it down.
Then I squeeze the front of the breech to the tube and tighten the small screw.
And finally, the barrel band.
I have never had a 'rocking' breech and if I have a leak I replace the seal.
I must have done it this way 100 times over the years.
I have used a wood furniture clamp in the past but not much anymore.

[avator]

If you have a 'rocking' breech, chances are you have the tp in upside down. Long side goes up.

[Wayne52]

Sometime I might try making a delrin transfer port but in all honesty the gun with a lighter hammer spring (2240 spring) is probably the only thing more that I'll be doing to my first one, the second one hasn't had a pellet through it yet.  I figure 16fpe coming from a gun like this is plenty for what I'm going to be using it for.

[CraigH]

No glue here either.. If I ever feel the need to do a TP mod it will be the ice maker tube.
Pull the seal out of the tube, put the TP in it and measure it with the calipers. Then cut the ice maker tube to the same length.
To install a stock tp..
I put the barrel in the breech and align the tp, breech and barrel then tighten the set screw.
Next I fit the breech on the tube aligning the tp and tube and put the small screw in only hand tight.
Next I put the rear screw in and crank it down.
Then I squeeze the front of the breech to the tube and tighten the small screw.
And finally, the barrel band.
I have never had a 'rocking' breech and if I have a leak I replace the seal.
I must have done it this way 100 times over the years.
I have used a wood furniture clamp in the past but not much anymore.

I always do the 4-48 screw first.    The front is full-on down - and no fear of stripping.   Either way can benefit from mechanical clamping.

Something to consider on 13xx guns, and the 362 is essentially one of them, the breeches do not fill as well on the outer edges as on the 22xx guns with their larger diameter tube.   Flashlight may shine through on these outer edges.   The center TP area should be down.

[Wayne52]

 

[Spacebus]

I'm surprised to see people using metric hex keys for their screws. I am definitely using one measured in thousandths of an inch, and it fits very tight. I think the hex key would bend/twist before I strip that screw. I'm going to pull the barrel again and see if it really is bent. It could have been more damaged in shipping than I realized.

[Spacebus]

I'm surprised to see people using metric hex keys for their screws. I am definitely using one measured in thousandths of an inch, and it fits very tight. I think the hex key would bend/twist before I strip that screw. I'm going to pull the barrel again and see if it really is bent. It could have been more damaged in shipping than I realized.

I checked the barrel with my electric glass top range (which I hate) and it didn't seem bent. I put the breech back on and this time it sat perfectly flat even after tightening the rear screw. I'm going to do some velocity testing today and maybe all will be well. I seem to have lost my OEM TP, which is annoying but not a big loss. Yesterday I was having groups all over the place in elevation, and felt ready to give up on it, but today I guess I felt more motivated. I also couldn't even get on paper at 20 yards with four pumps, but that may be better now.

The trigger definitely not worthy and does not seem to be getting any better. I think that will be the next thing I address. Is there anything that works well that is also a drop in replacement? The triggers on the rest of my guns work perfectly fine for me and I've never needed to adjust anything.

I'm also thinking about the fancy MAP hammer. The rough cocking, due to the sloppy hammer pin, not worthy. Yesterday I wanted to pull the stock and felt really stupid for not being able to figure out how. There don't seem to be any visible screws, and I don't have the manual handy, if the info is even in there. If I could get to the hammer I could at least try peening the bottom section a bit for a tighter fit, as mentioned earlier on this thread (I think).

[avator]

DJ, sometimes just stepping away and going back in a new light makes all the difference in the World.
When I find issues that I don't quite understand and cannot resolve I try to carefully observe what I am doing.
After a break, maybe even sleep on it, I go back to it and try different approaches.... change the process.
You know what they say.... the definition of insanity is doing the same thing over and over and expecting different results. 

[Spacebus]

DJ, sometimes just stepping away and going back in a new light makes all the difference in the World.
When I find issues that I don't quite understand and cannot resolve I try to carefully observe what I am doing.
After a break, maybe even sleep on it, I go back to it and try different approaches.... change the process.
You know what they say.... the definition of insanity is doing the same thing over and over and expecting different results. 

I'll run some shots through the chronograph today and maybe go up in the attic and zero for 30'. My rifle has been puffing air out the breech area since new, but wasn't doing it even with the gap at the front of the breech. Maybe today I'll make full power on eight pumps.

Edit: There's definitely a leak. The faster I pump, the faster it shoots. If I pump up slow, I get less velocity. If I pump fast and wait, it's like I pumped one less pump. If I pump slow and then wait, velocity goes down even more.

My peak velocity pumping up nine times and shooting as quickly as possible was 665 FPS with 14.3 CPUM. Still a bit less than everyone else is getting on eight pumps. No puffs of air, no leaks, and groups well even though I wasn't trying to make groups.

If there were a flat top piston and valve combo available I would probably order it. I still have to figure out how to take this thing apart, so that's the next thing to do.

[Keepingitsimple]

DJ, sometimes just stepping away and going back in a new light makes all the difference in the World.
When I find issues that I don't quite understand and cannot resolve I try to carefully observe what I am doing.
After a break, maybe even sleep on it, I go back to it and try different approaches.... change the process.
You know what they say.... the definition of insanity is doing the same thing over and over and expecting different results. 

My peak velocity pumping up nine times and shooting as quickly as possible was 665 FPS with 14.3 CPUM. Still a bit less than everyone else is getting on eight pumps. No puffs of air, no leaks, and groups well even though I wasn't trying to make groups.

You've got it licked, D. J.. Why not stop there?
665 fps at 9 pumps is nothing to sneeze at.
 
You're getting good groups without even trying?

Accuracy is what counts most. You can now get good groups with your 362 without even trying to get good groups. Congratulations!

[Spacebus]

DJ, sometimes just stepping away and going back in a new light makes all the difference in the World.
When I find issues that I don't quite understand and cannot resolve I try to carefully observe what I am doing.
After a break, maybe even sleep on it, I go back to it and try different approaches.... change the process.
You know what they say.... the definition of insanity is doing the same thing over and over and expecting different results. 

My peak velocity pumping up nine times and shooting as quickly as possible was 665 FPS with 14.3 CPUM. Still a bit less than everyone else is getting on eight pumps. No puffs of air, no leaks, and groups well even though I wasn't trying to make groups.

You've got it licked, D. J.. Why not stop there?
665 fps at 9 pumps is nothing to sneeze at.
 
You're getting good groups without even trying?

Accuracy is what counts most. You can now get good groups with your 362 without even trying to get good groups. Congratulations!

Close, but it's not "licked", it's leaking. Didn't have accuracy problems out of the box, just inconsistent groups due to velocity changes. Hard to get peak accuracy when elevation changes even at the same number of pumps. I swear you just don't even read the comments and instead just want to be contrary with me specifically. The rifle won't hold air and has huge changes in velocity because of that. Unless a 100 FPS difference and leaking valves is "normal" for Crosman products 

[Mintyman]

Just FYI. I know it’s been brought up elsewhere but the bolt nose is extended on the plastic breech(right) and not on the steel.(left). My gun has been shooting accurately with the shorter nosed pusher but I know there’s gotta be a drop in FPS.
Also if the plastic breech bolt handle is threaded they glued it in. It snapped right off when I tried to unthread it.

[CraigH]

It is not threaded - certainly not in the past.

If you could drill it out clean, and sleeve it (the ID will be too large), and accurately thread it; then it would be ready.   More a labor of love than getting something else.

[Back_Roads]

 Might try what the classic pumper people do to revive a leaky gun. Alcohol Flush it

[Spacebus]

Just FYI. I know it’s been brought up elsewhere but the bolt nose is extended on the plastic breech(right) and not on the steel.(left). My gun has been shooting accurately with the shorter nosed pusher but I know there’s gotta be a drop in FPS.
Also if the plastic breech bolt handle is threaded they glued it in. It snapped right off when I tried to unthread it.

My probe is the same length as the factory, not the problem. It literally leaks. I can pump it up shoot, and get one velocity. Do the same number of pumps, wait a few minutes, and get a 15 FPS (this goes up over time) velocity drop. There's a 15 FPS drop just from pumping it up slowly. That runs counter to what most people say, but their guns probably don't leak.

Might try what the classic pumper people do to revive a leaky gun. Alcohol Flush it

I was hoping someone could tell me how to take the stock off of the action. There are no obvious screws besides the large one that holds the magnet striker. I would like to peen the bottom of the hammer pin and see if I can get the valve to stop leaking.

How does the alcohol flush work? I might have some rubbing alcohol around here.

[avator]

DJ, once that large screw is out and the safety cross bar is remove the stock comes off.... it's a really tight fit but it will come off.
That said, make sure you get it just as tight when you put it back on. And I can tell you from experience, after a dozen or so times of removing it and putting it back on, it gets easier.... 

Oh yeah.... be sure to move your coffee off the bench before popping the tight stock off..... don't ask.