NEW Crosman 362

[Spacebus]

Can you link to an appropriate punch? I don't own any and might as well get the right tool for the job. Can you just push the valve out from the back once the piston is out, like a PCP?

Yes - push out the front.

Here are sets by Wheeler (Not probably what you want):

https://www.wheelertools.com/gunsmithing-tools/hammer-and-punch/

Try searching for "roll pin punch".   Cheaper sets on amazon.    (Cannot recall the size at the moment - will look later)

Those are not bad prices, might be worth it to get the master kit and be able to handle any other roll pins I come across. My tractor and some of my implements have roll pins.

[CraigH]

Try searching for "roll pin punch".   Cheaper sets on amazon.    (Cannot recall the size at the moment - will look later)

Those are not bad prices, might be worth it to get the master kit and be able to handle any other roll pins I come across. My tractor and some of my implements have roll pins.

Looks to be 3/16"  ---  Only one that appears to have been used in my small Wheeler set  ---  And fits the roll pin nicely.

[TKO22]

I guess I'll be taking it apart soon.

Something else worth noting, I almost always get a puff of air when I shoot, and have since new. Is this a TP alignment problem?
I guess I'll be taking it apart soon.

Dang ... so much great info disappeared when the Crosman "Green Forum" shutdown.

I posted this back in 2015 and just now found it in the Green Forum Archives, but the photos are gone... so use your imagination!! If I can find the photos on my server, I'll place them in the correct spots...

(Anything in bold red I added today.)

---+---

Feb 16, 2015#1

This is how we assemble the Discovery rifles (Now the C362, 22xx, etc.) after a tune-up. Benefits: Perfect port seal, rigid breech attachment.

1. (Align the barrel port to the breech port) Insert barrel and tighten the barrel set screw.  Use a Q-tip and clean the port area of oil.



2. Use a pair of forceps to grasp the port seal by the "short" end. (I usually also take off a few thou from the long end of the port seal to assure a "non-rocking" connection between the breech and airtube.



3. We use a industrial packaged version of the common consumer glue "Amazing Goop" ($4-$5 at the local hardware store ... get the "all Purpose" version. Apply a tiny thin bead of glue around the long end of the port seal. Not important how much is on the outside of the port, but none inside the port hole. (I squeeze out a blob and using the forcepts, touch the side of the long end of the port and slowly turn/spin the fordcepts and a ribbon of glue will be pulled off the blob)



4. (Using the forcepts) Carefully place the port into the breech/barrel assembly. Careful not to get glue inside the port, although it is easy to remove before it dries.



5. Wait just 30 -60 sec., then remove the overrun from around the port/breech connection. I use a small tool I made, but a flat toothpick will work too. Leave it to cure for 10-15 minutes.



6. Get your airtube ready to accept the breech. Degrease the upper portion of the airtube. Insert the striker/striker pin into the airtube, leaving it about 1/4" from the end of the slot. Best to place the airtube assembly in a padded vise or fixture to hold steady while assembling.

Insert your bolt probe into the breech, pushing it forward to clear the striker pin. (Don't thread on the bolt handle yet if your breach uses the rear small breech screw position.)

Apply 3 spots of glue along the underside of the breech ahead of the port, and one between the port and the small breech screw hole. You have to work rather quickly as this stuff sets up quickly.




7. Quickly assemble the breech/Barrel assembly to the airtube assembly. Squeeze the breech down while lightly tightening the small breech screw. You will fully tighten it down in the next step.



8. I then clamp the assemblies together using 2 quik.clamps. When clamped securely, fully tighten the small breech screw. Let it setup for 10-15 minutes. Before unclamping, insert the breech plug (If your gun has one), the striker spring, airtube end pug and secure with the rear large breech screw.



9. There will be glue over run from the sides, but can be brushed away before it fully cures ... maybe 1 hour.



10. I use a "M-16" plastic bristle brush to brush away the over run of glue.



11. All cleaned up and sealed and tight to the airtube!



Works great on the plastic breech too. Just use enough to fill in some of the forward voids in the plastic breech.

Have a great week folks!

Mike T.
TKO

---+---

[2K1TJ]

Great post, Mike. I've thought about using this or something similar before but always chickened out.

How is it if/when you have to tear it down again? Does it clean up fairly easily?

[TKO22]

Great post, Mike. I've thought about using this or something similar before but always chickened out.

How is it if/when you have to tear it down again? Does it clean up fairly easily?

Easy disassembly. Just a steady pull will separate the breech from the tube. The glue will clean up easily too. The main benefit is the steel on steel of the port/barrel is no longer an issue. The clamping allows more torque on the tiny 4-48 breech screw, but it must be clamped again before disassembly or there is a high risk of stripping the hex head. I use tools by Dynamite for all set screws. Super hard tips. I have used the same set since 2005 in my shop.

https://images.amainhobbies.com/cdn-cgi/image/width=475/images/large/dyn/dyn2904.jpg

[Spacebus]

I guess I'll be taking it apart soon.

Something else worth noting, I almost always get a puff of air when I shoot, and have since new. Is this a TP alignment problem?
I guess I'll be taking it apart soon.

Dang ... so much great info disappeared when the Crosman "Green Forum" shutdown.

I posted this back in 2015 and just now found it in the Green Forum Archives, but the photos are gone... so use your imagination!! If I can find the photos on my server, I'll place them in the correct spots...

(Anything in bold red I added today.)

---+---

Feb 16, 2015#1

This is how we assemble the Discovery rifles (Now the C362, 22xx, etc.) after a tune-up. Benefits: Perfect port seal, rigid breech attachment.

1. (Align the barrel port to the breech port) Insert barrel and tighten the barrel set screw.  Use a Q-tip and clean the port area of oil.



2. Use a pair of forceps to grasp the port seal by the "short" end. (I usually also take off a few thou from the long end of the port seal to assure a "non-rocking" connection between the breech and airtube.



3. We use a industrial packaged version of the common consumer glue "Amazing Goop" ($4-$5 at the local hardware store ... get the "all Purpose" version. Apply a tiny thin bead of glue around the long end of the port seal. Not important how much is on the outside of the port, but none inside the port hole. (I squeeze out a blob and using the forcepts, touch the side of the long end of the port and slowly turn/spin the fordcepts and a ribbon of glue will be pulled off the blob)



4. (Using the forcepts) Carefully place the port into the breech/barrel assembly. Careful not to get glue inside the port, although it is easy to remove before it dries.



5. Wait just 30 -60 sec., then remove the overrun from around the port/breech connection. I use a small tool I made, but a flat toothpick will work too. Leave it to cure for 10-15 minutes.



6. Get your airtube ready to accept the breech. Degrease the upper portion of the airtube. Insert the striker/striker pin into the airtube, leaving it about 1/4" from the end of the slot. Best to place the airtube assembly in a padded vise or fixture to hold steady while assembling.

Insert your bolt probe into the breech, pushing it forward to clear the striker pin. (Don't thread on the bolt handle yet if your breach uses the rear small breech screw position.)

Apply 3 spots of glue along the underside of the breech ahead of the port, and one between the port and the small breech screw hole. You have to work rather quickly as this stuff sets up quickly.




7. Quickly assemble the breech/Barrel assembly to the airtube assembly. Squeeze the breech down while lightly tightening the small breech screw. You will fully tighten it down in the next step.



8. I then clamp the assemblies together using 2 quik.clamps. When clamped securely, fully tighten the small breech screw. Let it setup for 10-15 minutes. Before unclamping, insert the breech plug (If your gun has one), the striker spring, airtube end pug and secure with the rear large breech screw.



9. There will be glue over run from the sides, but can be brushed away before it fully cures ... maybe 1 hour.



10. I use a "M-16" plastic bristle brush to brush away the over run of glue.



11. All cleaned up and sealed and tight to the airtube!



Works great on the plastic breech too. Just use enough to fill in some of the forward voids in the plastic breech.

Have a great week folks!

Mike T.
TKO

---+---

Thank you for posting that! Do you file the "tall side" of the port to make it shorter? I don't have any machining tools. Next time I have the breech off I'll be using the glue, it sounds like a much easier process. Today while I'm picking up some rear breech screws at the hardware store I'll snag some clamps and glue.

[CraigH]

Thank you for posting that! Do you file the "tall side" of the port to make it shorter? I don't have any machining tools. Next time I have the breech off I'll be using the glue, it sounds like a much easier process. Today while I'm picking up some rear breech screws at the hardware store I'll snag some clamps and glue.

Do not shorten the TP.

I don't glue.   There will be a modest improvement with glue or other sealant around the taper at the long (barrel side) part of the TP.

[Rabbit\Squirrel Killer]

Thank you for posting that! Do you file the "tall side" of the port to make it shorter? I don't have any machining tools. Next time I have the breech off I'll be using the glue, it sounds like a much easier process. Today while I'm picking up some rear breech screws at the hardware store I'll snag some clamps and glue.

Do not shorten the TP.

I don't glue.   There will be a modest improvement with glue or other sealant around the taper at the long (barrel side) part of the TP.

 
There might be a modest improvement with glue or other sealant but is really unnecessary as long as it is assembled correctly. Shortening the TP would be problematic, it would create a leak space therefore a need to seal it somehow. The TP is not too long it is made to fit into the recessed hole in the barrel, thus shortening the TP would also make it easier for the barrel to rotate out of alignment.

[CraigH]

Do not shorten the TP.

I don't glue.   There will be a modest improvement with glue or other sealant around the taper at the long (barrel side) part of the TP.

There might be a modest improvement

Perhaps a better phrase.

[Spacebus]

Do not shorten the TP.

I don't glue.   There will be a modest improvement with glue or other sealant around the taper at the long (barrel side) part of the TP.

There might be a modest improvement

Perhaps a better phrase.

Thanks! I'm very new to this platform.


I found a 8/32 x 1" hex cap screw at the hardware store that worked perfectly for my rear breech screw with the Baker aluminum breech, but I did have to file it a bit to make it short enough to not bind with the spring. I also picked up a shorter screw so I can run without a rear sight if I go with a scope or something, which seems unlikely. I'm hoping to make good groups with the factory irons at 20 yards, otherwise I'll probably invest in a low profile Williams peep sight.

[EdinGa]

I'm trying to source a cheaper front breech screw. I don't want to pay nearly $15 bucks for 2 of them on fleabay. I haven't had any luck yet, but that 1.5mm allen head is ridiculous.

[Firewalker]

I'm trying to source a cheaper front breech screw. I don't want to pay nearly $15 bucks for 2 of them on fleabay. I haven't had any luck yet, but that 1.5mm allen head is ridiculous.

I'll be home this evening, let me check my stock,  if I have them, it will be a bag of 50. I'm shipping bolt handles tomorrow on my day off so I could send a couple to you.

I have to change mine out too so I'll remember... maybe. 

[avator]

I can't remember where I got those SS Torx head ones... it's been a few years. I had one left and used it. Someone also had the slotted ones.

[Wayne52]

The ones that I've got I bought from Crosman a long time ago, whenever I order parts from Crosman I'll always order more than I need because they're so inexpensive which helps for the shipping costs as well.  Back when I ordered mine I also bought a couple 2240 valves and a Prod valve as well.

I did shoot my C362 again this morning too
 

[Rick67]

I can't remember where I got those SS Torx head ones... it's been a few years. I had one left and used it. Someone also had the slotted ones.

Only Magnum Air Power makes them, the stainless torx screws.

[Firewalker]

I can't remember where I got those SS Torx head ones... it's been a few years. I had one left and used it. Someone also had the slotted ones.

Only Magnum Air Power makes them, the stainless torx screws.

No, they are a standard hardware item, just not super popular. They are available in spline, hex, Philips, torx and slotted in 304 stainless and oxide coated steel.

I will cut the countersink off the shoulder before I buy them cut that way.

[Rick67]

AFAIK, MAP had them made like his high tensile strength torx valve screws.

[Spacebus]

I'm starting to think my barrel is bent. My aluminum breech has some light showing under the front, but not the back.

[Wayne52]

I must give kudos to Crosman for having about the best polymer stock that I've had on a gun, they're a really solid good feeling stock for being polymer.  No idea where the injection mold was made for these stocks but more than likely I'd say China.  My younger brother built injection molds for years for about 3 different mold shops in the area,  He retired in his early 50's and his biggest complaint was having to fix China molds.

[Firewalker]

AFAIK, MAP had them made like his high tensile strength torx valve screws.

He could have but it's much cheaper to have a screw company rep find the parts pre-made.

Depends on use as well, high tensile is silly for light thread engagement as is high shear.

A grade 5 is perfect for the minimal threading the tube has.