My 1322 crosman is dead

[avator]

Personally, I think it's a skinny little piece of metal sticking way out there just waiting to get bent. I've always chopped them off to 18" or less.

[s2kohio]

Ok. Thanks for the response. I’m still waiting to hear from Crosman.

[avator]

Note, that was my personal opinion... the 24" barrel will yield more power and accuracy in most cases. I'm just not one to baby a gun.... 

[BigBird]

What do you guys think of a 24” barrel?

I kept one of mine 24" to switch barrels with my discos.  Its a little more quiet but when you add a compensator it looks like you ARE compensating for something.  It is stable with the 1322 barrel band and holds zero.  Its accurate.  But it requires a 2289 stock and doesnt fit in a backpack.

[Gertrude]

What do you guys think of a 24” barrel?

As Bill said,  this is just my opinion, but it IS based off of some pretty extensive building / modding / testing that I have done on the 13XX and 22XX platforms.

I have built several of these guns including mild to moderate 1322 pumpers, as well as 2240/50 Co2 powered pistols to full blown, rear bottled, PCP carbine  conversions.

In my opinion, (and field testing), you can get to a point of diminishing returns when increasing the barrel  lengths on these guns, (relative to the power capacity), of them.

IMO,
A 1322 built at factory stock to medium power upgrades is best served with a 12" to 14" barrel.

Built to MAXIMUM power,...
   ... meaning, with a flat top piston, modified valve plenum capacity, increased valve exhaust port, extended bolt probe, maxed out transfer port, and modified hammer, .... then you can benefit from a 14" to 18" barrel.

24" barrels will only benefit on higher powered PCP conversion builds...

... but then again, and as Bill already mentioned, you end up with a ridiculously long "soda straw" gun that is completely unnecessary.

Do a search on the forums here for "Lego guns" or "Franken-guns", and you will surely find Dozens of older threads talking about this very subject.

Heck, you will probably run into LOTS of my posts from past years on these builds.

Good luck on your build and have fun with it.
As your first build, I would suggest building it with a Long Steel breech, with 14" barrel, 1399 stock, ice maker tubing transfer port, and an LDC.

After you learn that, you can decide how much further you want to take these VERY Fun guns.
The Sky, (and your wallet) are really the only limiting factors. Trust me on that. LOL.

To give you and idea of just how far you can go...
I have built a couple of 22XX based carbines that are pushing just over 40 FPE and will hold "mosh"
(Minute Of Squirrel Head) sized groups at 100 yds !
(and that is using a 18" barrel with a 5" LDC ! ! !)

Cheers,
And Welcome to the Rabbit Hole !

There is no turning back now,

You have now been infected with the A.A.D.S disease ...and there is no cure.
 

[avator]

What do you guys think of a 24” barrel?

As Bill said,  this is just my opinion, but it IS based off of some pretty extensive building / modding / testing that I have done on the 13XX and 22XX platforms.

I have built several of these guns including mild to moderate 1322 pumpers, as well as 2240/50 Co2 powered pistols to full blown, rear bottled, PCP carbine  conversions.

In my opinion, (and field testing), you can get to a point of diminishing returns when increasing the barrel  lengths on these guns, (relative to the power capacity), of them.

IMO,
A 1322 built at factory stock to medium power upgrades is best served with a 12" to 14" barrel.

Built to MAXIMUM power,...
   ... meaning, with a flat top piston, modified valve plenum capacity, increased valve exhaust port, extended bolt probe, maxed out transfer port, and modified hammer, .... then you can benefit from a 14" to 18" barrel.

24" barrels will only benefit on higher powered PCP conversion builds...

... but then again, and as Bill already mentioned, you end up with a ridiculously long "soda straw" gun that is completely unnecessary.

Do a search on the forums here for "Lego guns" or "Franken-guns", and you will surely find Dozens of older threads talking about this very subject.

Heck, you will probably run into LOTS of my posts from past years on these builds.

Good luck on your build and have fun with it.
As your first build, I would suggest building it with a Long Steel breech, with 14" barrel, 1399 stock, ice maker tubing transfer port, and an LDC.

After you learn that, you can decide how much further you want to take these VERY Fun guns.
The Sky, (and your wallet) are really the only limiting factors. Trust me on that. LOL.

To give you and idea of just how far you can go...
I have built a couple of 22XX based carbines that are pushing just over 40 FPE and will hold "mosh"
(Minute Of Squirrel Head) sized groups at 100 yds !
(and that is using a 18" barrel with a 5" LDC ! ! !)

Cheers,
And Welcome to the Rabbit Hole !

There is no turning back now,

You have now been infected with the A.A.D.S disease ...and there is no cure.
 

Do yourself a favor and listen to this guy ^^^^.
But do it at your own risk.... I followed him down the rabbit hole a couple times.

[s2kohio]

Bill

LOL. I was happy enough with my minor mods to my 1322 and 1377 when I changed to lighter trigger springs, quick release pins, and shoulder stock.

Then my 1322 took a dump. So my next mod will be opening up the breach to see if I can fix the TP and straighten the front sight. If (and that’s a BIG if) I get the 1322 working again I’ll be a happy camper. If not, then I guess I’ll buy a new 1322 - either thru Amazon or Crosman.

All I need these pistols for is backyard plinking and shooting squirrels and chipmunks at 30-35 feet.

I do appreciate all the info and as soon as my hex key shows up tomorrow I’m going to start working/fixing my 1322.

[avator]

If your only intention is to fix it then that will be easy enough.

[Spooner]

when i first looked at that pic showing the mis-aligned TP, i thought i was seeing things, lol. hopefully you will get lucky and find that it has not been damaged. i would think that if there are any nicks or deformation at all, especially around the chamfered top of it, that it probably would be best to replace it and the lower seal? check the plastic breech as well just to make sure that is wasnt deformed by the bad alignment. Crosman is the best source for parts but there are always places like Alliance Hobby, Alchemy Airwerks, Pyramid Air and many others as well as eBay where you can get these parts in a pinch if needed.

I completely agree with the long steel breech. i had both my 1322 and 1377 (both CCS guns) made them and it was a decision i will never regret. the steel breech gives you the dovetail and keeps everything nice and solid. however, if you are completely happy with the performance of your 1322 as is, and all it needs is to be re-aligned, then that is your cheapest option even if you have to replace the TP and seal. once you take it apart and re-assemble it, you will see just how easy these guns are to work on and you can always go back later and upgrade the breech. there are tons of videos on youtube that walk you through these things step by step. those videos along with the help of all the great people here got me started on my path to obsession, lol.

as far as barrel lengths go... i am sold on the 14.5" LW barrels. it is the happy medium between distance and power in my two guns and that is another decision i will never regret. i shoot at 20 yards (using a scope on the 1322 and a dot reflex on the 1377) and at 5-6 pumps i have incredible accuracy. a head shot to a squirrel would take him out no problem. i decided not to do any power mods, not yet anyway. i am always impressed at their power, as is, every time i shoot either of them.

i will be curious to see what you find when you inspect the transfer port and hope a re-alignment is all you need to get yours back up and shooting.

[Gertrude]

Mike,
What I'm starting  to realize  here is that you are unaware of the differences  (and benefits gained) with going to a steel breech... so allow me to try and explain.

The stock plastic breech on your 1322,
 DOES NOT positively secure the barrel from rotation.
In other words, the barrel is free to rotate in the breech.

This means, that the Transfer Port, (which yours is almost certainly deformed),...  (and js now leaking),  is the reason your velocity has  now been compromised.

A Steel Breech literally ELIMINATES any barrel rotation,  due to it has 2 "grub screws", (that your stock plastic breech does not have).

These 2 additional grub screws, LOCK THE BARREL, and eliminates the possibility  of blowing out another Transfer Port... as well as insures that each shot fired, is coming out of a barrel that IS NOT MOVING BETWEEN SHOTS.
This is Absolutely VITAL, for accuracy  and shot to shot consistency.

The Steel Breech, ALSO, has the Dovetail Grooves that the plastic breech does not have.
This means that it provides and far more positive mounting base for whatever  sights you decide to use,
 and therefore, a more consistent sight picture and solid mount. That applies to everything from mounting a Scope, ... Red Dot, ... or regular  Iron sights.
Whatever is your choice.

Bottom line is,
EVEN IF YOU STAY WITH YOUR ORIGINAL BARREL, .... A Steel Breech WILL improve your grouping,
 and therefore,  ultimately increase your Effective Range.

So to summarize,
A Steel Breech is basically  viewed as a "No Brainer" if you are already going to the effort of accurizing and improving your guns ability to deliver desired results.

Think of it this way...
Although  you may not yet realize it,
Yes,...  the 1322 is a fairly decent shooter in stock factory form, ... BUT ! ,... in reality, it is really just a "Darn good " base gun/kit that comes pre-assembled for you.
Sure,
You take it out of the packaging,  pump it up, toss in a pellet, and it generally  shoots fairly well.

The thing is,
There are literally ,
SO MANY,
EASY and QUITE  AFFORDABLE WAYS,
to take it to a Much Higher level of performance,  (and therefor, your shooting PLEASURE),
That it just makes sense to jump in with both feet.

I have literally stood toe to toe with my buddies,
 pesting ground squirrels on our local farm permissions at 50 to 100 yds,
(With them shooting guns 5 TIMES more expensive),
And at the end of the day, my head count easily equals theirs.

And let me tell you,
When I can hold my own, using a Crosman Franken-gun, ... up against the likes of a tuned Woodsman , or a Vulcan, or a Daystate,

That makes for some SERIOUS  Bragging rights !
Lamo!

Let's just get you through this rebuild, and get you up to shooting it at a level you would have never imagined possible.
THEN, ... After That, ....
We'll start introducing you to The DARKSIDE,

(Que in the evil mad scientist music here) BWAHAHAHAHA!

[Back_Roads]

 When I first joined GTA, even when my guns were shooting fine, many here said mod this mod that, I responded, I was content with how they were shooting, and until something broke I was not going there.
 Fast forward, with in a year I had bought a basic 1377, and took it apart within weeks of getting it, and did some basic mods to the TP and added an AR stock adapter. It still has the plastic breach, and still plan on adding a steel breach etc. when the gun stops performing as well as it does.
 About 6 months later I did order a Custom Shop 1322 with 14.5" LW, long steel breach LPA sight and air stripper. also added a folding stock recently to that one.


 I am a mechanic, but rather not have to fix things on my days off, if possible 

[s2kohio]

Reading all of the suggestions I’m seriously thinking the Crosman custom shop might be my ultimate course of action to get a new 1322 with a steel breech, 14.5” barrel. But then the questions.

1. I like the iron sights on my 1377. It was straight when I got it. Shoot dead on. If I get the steel breech on the 1332 I see I lose the built in iron sights and have to use scope or red dot or buy iron sights.

I bought 2 scopes $30 each at Walmart and have never been able to zero them. You get what you pay for. I also have a $30 BSA Red Dot. The red dot seems to hold zero but I like the iron sight better. I’m posting at 30 feet so in reality the iron sights are fine.

So if I go with steel breech I can again try to zero the scopes (which I’m sure will be as crappy as before) and the BSA. But what iron sights should I buy?

2. I see that there are 2 types of barrels. Again,  I’m just pesting at About 30 feet, so I don’t see the value of an LW barrel at $40+ more dollars. Please educate me on that.

3. What’s an air stripper? What does it do? I also don’t see that option on the custom shop.

4.  Where do I find the folding stock (I have the 1399 with quick release pin). How much is it?

5.  I do see the benefit of the longer steel breech, which is what I would get.

I did want to get a pumper but they are out of stock. What do you guys think about CO2?  Personally I don’t think I’d be a fan to be reliant on having CO2 cartridges on hand, the added cost, and reading that they aren’t effective in cold weather. Also having to keep count of shots because as the cartridge empties pellet velocity goes down.

I’m limited to a pellet pistol (local ordinance) and I don’t want the neighbors getting all up in my face if (a) they hear the ‘bang’ and (b) if they get wonky that I’m shooting squirrels that invaded my garage ceiling last summer (and cost me $1,000 to trap & get rid of them) & chipmunks  that are burrowing around my house foundation causing leaking in heavy rain.

So that’s why I got the pistols in the first place. Simply pest eradication and target plinking.

I can’t wait to get my Allen key today so I can take the 1322 apart and hope the pieces parts will function when I rebuild it. But, all of the info you all have given me is making me ‘itchy’ and leading me to that rabbit hole. LOL all I wanted was a cheap, quiet, city legal pistol to eradicate my yard pests.  I got the 1322 from eBay for $39 due to their mixup in sending a 1322 instead of the 1377 I ordered. I figured for that saving  I’d  buy a 1377 for $50 )Amazon price last Sept.). I like these pistols so I figured that when Walmart discontinued selling guns and ridiculously marked down their remaining 1377 stock I bought all 3. I see that Amazon is selling 1377’s for ~$69 now. 

I still haven’t heard back from Crosman on my customer support email

[Spooner]

Crosman is currently out of their 13xx CCS guns, so doing a custom gun with them is not an option right now. yes, you will lose your current built in sight if you go to a steel breech but you are not limited to a scope or a reflex sight. i have an LPA mim sight on my 1322 as back up to my scope. the LPA sight is very low profile, built exceptionally well, and very accurate. it is pricey though, about $50 depending on who you get it from. i have a Williams notch sight as back up to my reflex sight on my 1377. this is a pretty large sight but built fantastic with knob adjusters but it is also a little pricey depending on who you get it from. their sights come in a number of different types... peep hole and diopter, ect.

do an eBay search for 1322 or 1377 sights and just explore what options are available. this would give you a good idea on what you can do.

from what you are saying, your needs are very basic. pesting in an area with restrictions at 30-35 feet. your gun as stock with no upgrades will easily do this with a simple repair. the choice has to be yours on which way you go. you can easily get wrapped up in one upgrade after another looking for that perfect set up that meets your needs. it sounds like the gun already meets those needs as is when repaired?

i agree with Gertrude... just get it up and shooting, then decide if you want to go further. the steel breech is the one upgrade that everyone agrees is worthwhile, but it isnt a "must do" upgrade. for no further than you are shooting, and the type of shooting you are doing... your plastic breech will work just fine. now, if the plastic breech has been damaged by this mis-alignment and you have to replace it... then i would say consider a steel breech since you would have to change it anyway. 

[Gertrude]

Mike
I agree with what everyone  has said about your plastic  breech will do fine for your 30 foot needs.
Once you take it apart, and if you find the breech has been damaged,  I have  a factory breech you are welcome to have for free.

If you want to make the gun even quieter than the stock gun, you will need to put a little longer barrel on it so that you can add a LDC.

IIRC, you can get a 10" barrel from Crosman Parts for very cheap I'm sure someone here can provide the part number for that.

Then you can get a hold of Rocker1 here and have him make you an LDC to make it "Mouse Fart Quiet".

Let me know if you need to replace the breech and I'll  be happy to send you one.

P.S.-
Be Very careful when taking out the upper breech screw. They are quite prone to stripping the hex head if the wrench is a bit too loose. (We refer to that little screw as the "pita screw").
Cheers

[CraigH]

The stock plastic breech on your 1322,
 DOES NOT positively secure the barrel from rotation.
In other words, the barrel is free to rotate in the breech.

This means, that the Transfer Port, (which yours is almost certainly deformed),...  (and js now leaking),  is the reason your velocity has  now been compromised.

A Steel Breech literally ELIMINATES any barrel rotation,  due to it has 2 "grub screws", (that your stock plastic breech does not have).

These 2 additional grub screws, LOCK THE BARREL, and eliminates the possibility  of blowing out another Transfer Port... as well as insures that each shot fired, is coming out of a barrel that IS NOT MOVING BETWEEN SHOTS.
This is Absolutely VITAL, for accuracy  and shot to shot consistency.

Steel breeches (long style) I have purchased from Crosman have had only one grub screw - and not over the TP.   I make them into three screw breeches with a trip to the drill press.

It is possible to install a grub screw over the TP on the plastic breech for the mere cost of the screw and drilling a hole.   Just use modest torque to avoid stripping the new work.

Start cheap -  you will have a high-priced 1322 soon enough!   

[Hoosier Daddy]

Glad I read this thread to the end before chiming in.
 I was going going to offer up one of my plastic breeches but Ron beat me too it. 
Mike, Take it slow and you will be fine.
As mentioned , make sure the allen key is fully seated in the tiny screw before torquing on it.
Counter clock-wise to loosen (Righty tighty - Lefty Loosey) and when you install it put the long end of the allen key into the screw. That way you are only using the short end to torque on, less likely to strip it.

 Also look closely at the transfer port, it is NOT the same on both sides and it should only go one way, don't put it in up-side down.
 Pay attention to where the small flat o-ring is. Then you will see why the transfer port is shaped the way it is.

You got this!

[BigBird]

Reading all of the suggestions I’m seriously thinking the Crosman custom shop might be my ultimate course of action to get a new 1322 with a steel breech, 14.5” barrel. But then the questions.

1. I like the iron sights on my 1377. It was straight when I got it. Shoot dead on. If I get the steel breech on the 1332 I see I lose the built in iron sights and have to use scope or red dot or buy iron sights.

I bought 2 scopes $30 each at Walmart and have never been able to zero them. You get what you pay for. I also have a $30 BSA Red Dot. The red dot seems to hold zero but I like the iron sight better. I’m posting at 30 feet so in reality the iron sights are fine.

So if I go with steel breech I can again try to zero the scopes (which I’m sure will be as crappy as before) and the BSA. But what iron sights should I buy?

2. I see that there are 2 types of barrels. Again,  I’m just pesting at About 30 feet, so I don’t see the value of an LW barrel at $40+ more dollars. Please educate me on that.

3. What’s an air stripper? What does it do? I also don’t see that option on the custom shop.

4.  Where do I find the folding stock (I have the 1399 with quick release pin). How much is it?

5.  I do see the benefit of the longer steel breech, which is what I would get.

Open sights do well with longer barrels because of the sight radius, obviously the consensus is not 24" barrels.  Get an 18" then if you are wanting open sights.  With the steel breech you could get a Daisy 5899 Peep Sight for good precision HOWEVER you need a taller front sight because this rear sight sits up much higher.  I don't know of anyone that offers a tall front sight??  Easiest way is to use Crosman's custom shop front sight that has a screw-in post.  Get a tall set screw from your hardware and it would work.  Sight picture: tall front sight goes in the middle of the (circle hole) rear sight just like your stock peep.
An 18" barrel will be more quiet than a 14" due to the valve closing before the pellet gets out of the barrel.

I'm not sure why your scopes are not working.  Even cheap scopes should work.  How did you use them on your 1322 or 1377?  The Crosman 459MT 2-Pc Intermount works really well (Gets mixed reviews) on my 1377 HOWEVER it attaches to the barrel and can twist it.  You have to "baby it".  If you tried this mount on your 1322 I bet that's where the problem started!  That may cause the scope problems too!

Dont worry you'll have this thing fixed and back working in no time.

Here is a daisy with the 5899 rear sight. Front sight was fabricated but works really well. Gun was messed up and sold as junk but it is a .177 Starling slayer.

[BigBird]

IIRC, you can get a 10" barrel from Crosman Parts for very cheap I'm sure someone here can provide the part number for that.

I think stock barrel is 10.1"
Here are some parts numbers but they may be old and you may have to cut down.  But if you are purchasing a barrel just order a custom shop 2400kt and make yourself a pumper or use CO2 for summer pesting.

2289-001= 14" .22 barrel
2260-003= 24" .22 barrel
2260SE-001= 24" .22 Disco Barrel
1760SE-001= 24" .177 Disco Barrel

[Hoosier Daddy]

I put a 14" (Crosman) barrel from AlchemyAirwerks on my 1377 and am very happy with it.
https://www.ebay.com/str/alchemyairwerks/Barrels/_i.html?_storecat=581975419

David has everything you will ever need...

Whoops, there's that rabbit hole again! 

[Gertrude]

IIRC, you can get a 10" barrel from Crosman Parts for very cheap I'm sure someone here can provide the part number for that.

I think stock barrel is 10.1"
Here are some parts numbers but they may be old and you may have to cut down.  But if you are purchasing a barrel just order a custom shop 2400kt and make yourself a pumper or use CO2 for summer pesting.

2289-001= 14" .22 barrel
2260-003= 24" .22 barrel
2260SE-001= 24" .22 Disco Barrel
1760SE-001= 24" .177 Disco Barrel

yep, I  stand corrected.
The stock barrel is a 10.1, so that means the next size up is the 14".