My 1322 crosman is dead

[s2kohio]

I’ve got zero mechanical ability. I have a 1322 that was working great. About500 pellets thru it. Tonight it looks like the 1322 is just burping the pellets out. I can see them at a bit out of the muzzle and just hit the ground.

Not sure how to even start diagnosing the issue.

Any really step by step help is appreciated

OK - now I see by using a hanger that the pellets aren’t leaving the barrel after I pull the trigger. I’m pumping to 10 and it feels just like it did when working. I’m stumped.

[CraigH]

Without using a pellet:

1. Pump up the pistol.

2.  Is it loud?  --> probable good air flow and working.

3.  If not so loud, cock and fire again without pumping   -->  same low report

4.  Repeat #3, until no air  -->   possible some sort of hammer hangup or hammer spring dragging on rear cap screws.

Or, less likely on stock 13xx, possible valve lock.

Next idea presenter?

[avator]

Have you been oiling the gun at all? Or maybe over oiling it?
is air blowing past the bolt oring when you fire the gun.... where you put the pellet in.
Have you tried cocking the gun before you pump it?

[s2kohio]

I’ve shot about 500 pellets thru 1322 in about 1 year. I’ve oiled it with pell oil. Sparingly.

I’ve pumped it but haven’t tried cocking before pump. I doubt it will make any difference.

I don’t feel air blowing out of the gun where I put in the pellet, although the cocking lever slides in so I don’t think I’d feel it. The gun shot 2 pellets well and then took a dump. I thought it was unusual that I was missing so many shots, then I saw the pellet burp out a few times. Now the pellet never leaves the barrel. I have to push it out with a hanger back to the cocking port.

[s2kohio]

Without using a pellet:

1. Pump up the pistol. - DID THAT.

2.  Is it loud?  --> probable good air flow and working. YES LOUD.

3.  If not so loud, cock and fire again without pumping   -->  same low report N/A
4.  Repeat #3, until no air  -->   possible some sort of hammer hangup or hammer spring dragging on rear cap screws. - TRIED THAT. WITH NO PUMP VERY LOW REPORT.

Or, less likely on stock 13xx, possible valve lock.

WHAT DO I TAKE APART TO TRY TO FIGURE THIS OUT? The pellet now doesn’t leave barrel. I took a wire hanger and clipped in into a ramrod in order to push the pellet back to cocking lever to get it out.

I also took paper towel and pushed it down the barrel a few times. It looked dirty/black when I pulled out the paper towel wad after raking it from barrel end to cocking lever port.

Next idea presenter?

[birdmove]

    I imagine you could pay a tissue over they reach where you place the pellet. Pump it up, and fire it, while watching the tissue. If the tissue blows off or puffs up, the air could be leaking by that little I'don't on the bolt.

[Bentong]

Could be the pump cup or the valve o-rings preventing build up of pressure while pumping.

[bantam5s]

You say it feels just like it did,  so does that mean it's taking the same amount of effort to pump as it did before ?
It starts off easy to pump then gets harder with each pump stroke?

If so then it is building pressure for sure.

Try firing it and feeling for air coming from between the breech and tube, maybe your transfer port seal went bad or the breech screw got loose and came out at some point.

[Stinger177]

You didn't state the age of the gun. Is it a recent purchase, or maybe something that just came out of the closet and back into action?

As bantam5s asked, does it get harder to pump with successive strokes? That info would help to determine if it's a pump cup issue or a valve issue.

 

[s2kohio]

It gets harder to pump from 1 to 10 pumps. It was working fine until this evening. It’s about 9 months old and I’ve fired about 500-600 pellets through it. Oiled lightly about 1-2 times before it failed. Last oiling was about 4 months ago.

I was using Ruger heavy .22 pointed pellets for the Past week. Wondering if that pellet (shot about 15-20 of them) over the Past week.

I’ll check out the tissue tomorrow and report back.

[s2kohio]

I did the tissue test. The tissue ‘puffs’ up a little. So how do I fix the pistol?

[s2kohio]

I suppose I’ll need to disassemble the pistol.

What do I use to take out the screws marked in the picture?

[s2kohio]

Ok, to answer all prior questions
1. The 1322 was purchased NEW in October 2019 Not used much over winter. Perhaps 500-600 pellets shot from it over that time.

2. Worked great, until pellet #3 was shot yesterday afternoon. Then I discovered the pellets were ‘shooting’ out but I could see them go out 20 feet then drop. After about 3-5 of that happening the pellets stopped leaving the barrel and I had to take a wire hanger and push them back to the breach to get them out.

3.  Oil - probably one time prior to yesterday’s disaster. I did oil it yesterday after it failed to see if that would do anything. No joy.

4. I did the tissue test. I see the tissue puff slightly. I looked at the breach and I see what looks like the barrel lifted - see picture.

5.  So I’m stumped. What do I need to take apart? I see I can buy a new one on Amazon for $59. Will parts needed and time (no experience) in taking pistol apart etc be worth it?  I’m not a modder other than changing the Trigger spring for easier trigger pull and a quick release pin for the carbine stock (I did that months ago so that’s not the issue that caused current malfunction).

Here’s a picture of the barrel at the breach. I’m no expert but is the screw that I see - barrel slightly ‘up’ - causing the current problem?  If yes, what’s a step by step fix.

Thanks to all responders.

[CraigH]

The TP appears to be misaligned as shown in the image.   The grip frame does not need to be removed.

To remove the barrel/breech assembly, two fasteners are removed.   One is holding the rear sight - easy enough - loosen this first.   The other is the small hex screw seen when the bolt is retracted.   Use a quality 0.050" allen key which fits well and ensure it is fully into the screw.   Hold the front of the breech firmly down when removing this small machine screw.

A new TP seal will likely be needed due to the misalignment.

To begin assembly, first loosely insert the rear sight screw.

When assembling, ensure the barrel, breech, and TP are well and properly aligned.   A firm grip is needed on the front of the breech to insert the small front machine screw while the assembly is in alignment.   A good feel is needed to properly tighten this small screw.   When the front is down and tightened, tighten the rear screw.

[s2kohio]

Thanks for the response and instructions.

Just out of curiosity, are the screws on the grip hex screws? If yes, what size hex wrench is needed to open them?

Assuming I need a new TP seal where do I get one and how much do they cost?

Since the pistol is less than 1 year old I assume there’s some Crosman warranty. Tried calling Crosman today but the auto attendant choices did not work on my phone or my wife’s. I assume their system is ‘broken’.

[avator]

You'll need parts 8 and 9 from the diagram above. You will need the parts list for the numbers. I would be surprised if they cost much more than $1 each with $4 shipping. As a suggestion, I would also order a couple spares of the small screw #5.
Would someone kindly put up the part number list? I am at work and our IT department has such sites blocked.

[CraigH]

The grip frame side plate screws are 1/16" allen head.

The pistol does have a warranty.   But like all, or at least most, good until needed.      The pistol would have to be sent to Crosman or an approved warranty station.   So for this simple repair it may be best to DIY.   But does not hurt to ask the customer service staff member if they will complementarily send the parts - I have had than happen.

Here are the parts:

130-036    ---   Face Seal                The TP seal   --   Get a couple
1322A026  ---   Sleeve                    The transfer port   --   Probably not needed, but good to have
1333B027  ---   Screw, Breech          The front small 4-48 machine screw   --   Get a couple


Here is the location of EVP's  (Parts Manuals)

https://support.crosman.com/hc/en-us/categories/200223634-Owner-s-Manuals-and-Parts-Diagrams

[avator]

Thanks Craig..... that should help him out.

[Gertrude]

Also, there are several vids on youtube for 1322 disassembly and rebuild.
Mike,
The 1322 is,  by far,  the Easiest, and most basic airgun to learn how to work on.
It is also one of the most popular  guns to modify and upgrade.
Many of us refer to them as "Lego-guns" and learned basic airgunsmithing on them.
Parts are cheap when ordering from Crosman but you MUST have all your part numbers ready when you call them.
You might even want to consider making it into a carbine with a 1399 shoulder stock, and 12 or 14" barrel.
 (Which BTW, will increase both power and accuracy)
Have fun with it and learning how to rebuild it.
And welcome to the Rabbit hole,  LOL !
You are EXACTLY  at the same point that MANY OF US HERE started at.
Cheers

[BigBird]

Looks like yout barrel is turned or not aligned over the transfer port.  You may be able to disassemble and realign without purchasing parts, but working with Crosman and ordering from them is fun!  That said, if you take apart your gun any further you are more than halfway down the road to modding.  It is difficult to turn back.  Make sure you are safe.  Make sure all the air is out of the gun and wear safety glasses.