Oval printed pellet pickle?

[WhatUPSbox?]

Note, I did dremel a relief on the bottom of the P17, otherwise you can make a longer mount section.

[Back_Roads]

 I really should get back into 3D printing, I started out when there were few if any designs out there for air rifles, so I took the harder route and had to try and get there from scratch. Another winter project, along with my .30 cal. 1400 build 

[BigBird]

Dan.
Thanks for pointing out/reminding me of the P17 pickle on Thingiverse. With a slight nudge on scaling to get a gentle press fit, it only adds 4 in, and does a good job of muting the lead dust screams.
(the little spots on there are drizzle during the photo)

I didnt have to scale it at all but now I see why you did.  If you can make the narrow end longer it may allow it to work better.  I see why a relief would help.  I broke it    No worries, I will figure out how to stuff it down one of my freedoms.



Painted the Daisy 35 merged pickle Pink to match the Muddy Girl pattern and filled the piston at the same time.  7.9 gr CPHP at 645 and BBs a7 671 (magic number: FPE is grain size) and quiet.

[Insanity]

The p17 breakage is simply the way it is printed. Regardless of setting and material I have found that it is not the case. Lay it down horizontal and the layers will be perpendicular and resist breakage. You wont get the best looking in the end but it will be stronger. Make sure that internal support is not turned on. Now if you can find a 2 piece that makes it easier to print one part horizontal and the other vertical.

[AGEnthused2]

I printed one of those p17 moderators today. It turned out great.
Stronghero PLA galaxy black
205 nozzle
50 bed, glass with glue stick.
6 walls with no infill
80 mm/s
increased retraction distance and speed.

It fit one of my three p17’s well.

[BigBird]

The p17 breakage is simply the way it is printed. Regardless of setting and material I have found that it is not the case. Lay it down horizontal and the layers will be perpendicular and resist breakage. You wont get the best looking in the end but it will be stronger. Make sure that internal support is not turned on. Now if you can find a 2 piece that makes it easier to print one part horizontal and the other vertical.

I tried a horizontal pickle and it didnt come out very good.  It looked melted on the bottom and didnt align with the hole.  I tried it for kicks in the basement and the pellet was directed up and hit the wall. . Although I realize now it is because I have no clue about all the settings. As evident by Dereks post:

I printed one of those p17 moderators today. It turned out great.
Stronghero PLA galaxy black
205 nozzle
50 bed, glass with glue stick.
6 walls with no infill
80 mm/s
increased retraction distance and speed.

It fit one of my three p17’s well.

It is nice to have these moderators posted.  What printer do you have?  I have an Ender 3 Pro.
Based upon these "numbers" I have a lot to learn.
I only just found the retraction setting number (1250).

[WhatUPSbox?]

Yes, broke the pickle. Though I broke it trying to remove it (tight fit and relatively fresh paint). The Z print direction is weaker, but I think to print it horizontal, you probably have to design for that.
I made some tweaks, longer mount section, a couple of hits with the belt sander, and relief on the P17 and now I can get full range of motion.

The pickle works well enough that it is probably worth tweaking the design to get the clearance.

[WhatUPSbox?]

Dan, I have an Ender3 as well. I'm using Cura and CHEP's profiles have been working pretty well

[BigBird]

Yes, broke the pickle. Though I broke it trying to remove it (tight fit and relatively fresh paint). The Z print direction is weaker, but I think to print it horizontal, you probably have to design for that.
I made some tweaks, longer mount section, a couple of hits with the belt sander, and relief on the P17 and now I can get full range of motion.

The pickle works well enough that it is probably worth tweaking the design to get the clearance.

Looks familiar.  I wonder if lengthening the insert and shortening the ldc would work too.  TinkerCAD it. 

So last night I tightened another roller and printed a perfectly concentric 1377 pickle to replace my 1" plain PVC pickle (works great).  But it broke too (one of the internal tube sides)!  I am super gluing it back together. I will watch the video later today.

I wonder if white PLA has anything to do with it too.  Maybe it cools faster and needs a higher temp?  It seems easier to break.  Maybe there is a heat treatment for PLA?

[Insanity]

You could mod it so that it uses a piece of pipe that slips in both the LDC and p17. As nice as it is to have the 3d printer do all the work some times you get better results with adding is better parts.

[WhatUPSbox?]

Yeah, a piece of thin wall tubing as a liner would go a long way. That way the 3D print still provides the diameter match to the P17.

[WhatUPSbox?]

A quick 3D mod for the P17.  For paper punching, I didn't like the glow sights. I took them out. The rear sight was easy to mask. The front sight post is too narrow and rounded on top. So I made a simple 8X4X4 mm block and mounted it in the gap. The Frankenstein screws and double sided tape are temporary to see how I like it, eventually just bond it on.
So far it is working great. Fills the notch well with a square profile and provides a nice flat top.

[BigBird]

Maybe a Newbie "duh" here.  This may be at least part of my problem.  20% infill probably isnt good enough for attachment points.

I am trying to print a 100% fill 1377 - 1/2-20 adapter.  It takes 2.5 hours. Probably too much infill but it will provide a point of reference.



The broken 1377s both worked great after a little fixing on the lathe.  However, this one snapped reall quick.

[BigBird]

A quick 3D mod for the P17.  For paper punching, I didn't like the glow sights. I took them out. The rear sight was easy to mask. The front sight post is too narrow and rounded on top. So I made a simple 8X4X4 mm block and mounted it in the gap. The Frankenstein screws and double sided tape are temporary to see how I like it, eventually just bond it on.
So far it is working great. Fills the notch well with a square profile and provides a nice flat top.

I feel there are not enough air gun parts on Thingiverse.  I can think of a bunch of remixes and scratch builts.  I always wanted a higher front sight for any gun I put my Daisy peep on but didn't have access to a printer.  I think your sight would be easy to do in TinkerCAD.

I am working on a custom scratch built Pickle that I need to print out overnight (or for several days at 100% infill) 

[Insanity]

2.5 hours is nothing just do it. I have prints I do for a repeat customer that takes 12 hours for 10 parts 100% infill.

[AustinBinTX]

I’ve been 3D printing for around 5 years now. I’ve tested all kinds of filaments and all kinds of print settings on maybe 30 printers from entry level to pro-sumer over the years.

In my opinion, unless you’re going to be tapping holes in, or through bolting your print, 100% infill is a waste in most applications. Strength comes from wall thickness in most prints.

When I print my LDCs or other parts I shoot for 50% infill with 4 walls at .5mm for a total wall thickness of 2mm.

3D honeycomb infill has always tested the strongest all around on everything I’ve printed.

For filament, I use PETG 90% of the time. It’s easier to print and stronger than most of your other non exotic filaments. It has decent thermal qualities, and is easy to machine if needed.

[AGEnthused2]

I’ve been 3D printing for around 5 years now. I’ve tested all kinds of filaments and all kinds of print settings on maybe 30 printers from entry level to pro-sumer over the years.

In my opinion, unless you’re going to be tapping holes in, or through bolting your print, 100% infill is a waste in most applications. Strength comes from wall thickness in most prints.

When I print my LDCs or other parts I shoot for 50% infill with 4 walls at .5mm for a total wall thickness of 2mm.

3D honeycomb infill has always tested the strongest all around on everything I’ve printed.


For filament, I use PETG 90% of the time. It’s easier to print and stronger than most of your other non exotic filaments. It has decent thermal qualities, and is easy to machine if needed.

I don’t have the same amount of experience but I agree, the infill isn’t what adds strength, I only use enough infill to support overhangs of the model.
The P17 moderator I printed with 6 walls was to eliminate infill completely, 5 walls may have been enough.
I slice files then I look for problems or things I don’t like and chance settings.
My printers are an Ender 5, Cr-20 pro and Cr-10

[BigBird]

Ok. Newbie duh again.  Advice taken (seen after the fact).  I didnt put much pressure on it.

[AGEnthused2]

Have you had any issues with your extruder?
I downloaded and sliced the file with my settings and when I was looking at the layer view I saw that there really isn’t much material where the threads start. So it’s probably not you this time.

[AustinBinTX]

3d printing is definitely a lot trial and error, but that’s part of the fun I think. If something comes out wrong, you don’t really lose much aside from the time it took to print it.

I just wanted to share a few things I’ve picked up over the years, and hopefully help anyone reading this.

My biggest complaint starting off was that sometimes the same filament from the same manufacturer printed different than the roll before. I switched to pretty much only printing 3DXTech filament and Atomic Filament, and those issues went away. I chased everything on my printers before I finally figured that one out.