3d printing is definitely a lot trial and error, but that’s part of the fun I think. If something comes out wrong, you don’t really lose much aside from the time it took to print it.I just wanted to share a few things I’ve picked up over the years, and hopefully help anyone reading this.My biggest complaint starting off was that sometimes the same filament from the same manufacturer printed different than the roll before. I switched to pretty much only printing 3DXTech filament and Atomic Filament, and those issues went away. I chased everything on my printers before I finally figured that one out.
Have you had any issues with your extruder?I downloaded and sliced the file with my settings and when I was looking at the layer view I saw that there really isn’t much material where the threads start. So it’s probably not you this time.
Quote from: AGEnthused2 on June 24, 2020, 07:23:56 PMHave you had any issues with your extruder?I downloaded and sliced the file with my settings and when I was looking at the layer view I saw that there really isn’t much material where the threads start. So it’s probably not you this time.If you are talking about this file:https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2881213yeah, I had issues with it even at 100% fill. I think it needs a fix or a remix.This happened:Probably making the walls thicker may help?
Dan,One approach I took was to make an adapter/housing that used the trail NP internal baffle that is available from Crosman or Pyramyd for a few dollars (not my original idea though I can't remember which thread it came from). I first made a test adapter that fits on the crosman barrel and has the thread to accept the baffle. Once I did a fit check with that, I added to the design an integral outside tube which was the right length so that when baffle was screwed in, it closed off the end of the tube. This gave me the threads, the baffle itself and the outside tube to resist bending. It appears fairly stout, though I didn't try to break it. I just avoided overtightening the baffle so it didn't stress the printed threads.Moderator, if this is too much detail, please delete
Quote from: BigBird on June 24, 2020, 10:08:39 PMQuote from: AGEnthused2 on June 24, 2020, 07:23:56 PMHave you had any issues with your extruder?I downloaded and sliced the file with my settings and when I was looking at the layer view I saw that there really isn’t much material where the threads start. So it’s probably not you this time.If you are talking about this file:https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2881213yeah, I had issues with it even at 100% fill. I think it needs a fix or a remix.This happened:Probably making the walls thicker may help?What’s your layer height?
So the big strands hanging out in the middle look like when I print with a volcano toolhead and have too high of a layer with too much speed.It looks like the filament is being pulled away from the previous layer before it has time to bind.It also looks like it may be a an overhang there? Is that an undercut 90 degree overhang inside there?
Quote from: AustinBinTX on June 24, 2020, 10:24:50 PMSo the big strands hanging out in the middle look like when I print with a volcano toolhead and have too high of a layer with too much speed.It looks like the filament is being pulled away from the previous layer before it has time to bind.It also looks like it may be an overhang there? Is that an undercut 90 degree overhang inside there?That dose not look like typical stringing.
So the big strands hanging out in the middle look like when I print with a volcano toolhead and have too high of a layer with too much speed.It looks like the filament is being pulled away from the previous layer before it has time to bind.It also looks like it may be an overhang there? Is that an undercut 90 degree overhang inside there?
Quote from: Insanity on June 24, 2020, 10:27:03 PMQuote from: AustinBinTX on June 24, 2020, 10:24:50 PMSo the big strands hanging out in the middle look like when I print with a volcano toolhead and have too high of a layer with too much speed.It looks like the filament is being pulled away from the previous layer before it has time to bind.It also looks like it may be an overhang there? Is that an undercut 90 degree overhang inside there?That dose not look like typical stringing.Looking again, I definitely think there’s an overhang there, and what you can see in the photo is the filament just extruding into air because there’s nothing under it for it to bind on.
With my experiences it looks like a few different issues all at once. Mostly it looks like layer adhesion from one of a few issues. One the filament which is not common was not at the proper diameter. 2 my most common issue is the hot end did not keep temps up for the speed I demanded. 3 see 2 but the extruder skipped on the filament. 4 the filament was junk and that was only with PLA.
I printed one tonight, it doesn’t appear to have any issues, but I’ve adjusted a lot of my settings and the extruder has been upgraded.So here are my settings..2 layer height Wall thickness 2.4 yes 6 wallsNo change to top and bottom thicknessInfill 60Pattern triangles, as recommended by the guy who remixed it.Printing temp is 205Plate temp is 50, I use glue on a glass plate and adhesion is great.Print speed 80.0 mm/sRetraction enablesPrint cooling enabledFan speed 100No support and no extra adhesionRetraction is 6.5 and speed is 25Minimum layer time is 10 secondsMinimum speed is 10 mm/sTotal print time was 1hr 34 minutes, the estimate is very accurate.This was printed on my Ender 5.
Sorry if you’ve already posted it, but you’re printing with PLA correct?Looking at that photo it looks like adhesion. Those look like complete lines of filament just not sticking to the previous layer.As far as retraction, I would think in just about any slicer retraction would be in mm. For a Bowden tube setup anywhere between 6 and 15 is usually where I’ve ended up, the 15 Mark was with a printer with a super long Bowden tube though. I want to say on the Ender 3 Pro I had, I ended up between 6-8 most of the time. You would want a lower retraction for PLA as it has a tendency for heat creep. Want to keep the molten filament out of your heat break.
Dan, You probably solved the breakage problem with your 1377 print by now. I tried a different approach and left the front sight assembly in place and made a mount that slips over the existing sight. It fit well but I did add a 4-40 screw to pinch the ends together. It works well so far. Actually, I'm going to add a short sleeve over the barrel under the pinch screw so that it clamps down on the barrel as well. I think it will act as a barrel clamp to some extent and improve on stock.I printed with 100% fill
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