Author Topic: Oval printed pellet pickle? (Read 7037 times))

BigBird · « **on:** June 16, 2020, 10:24:27 PM »

Oval pellet pickle?

Son has a new 3D printer. Printed this for the 1377. Can anyone tell me what went wrong? Per guidelines, we are not discussing how to make one just what went wrong and what to do differently.

Rob M · « **Reply #1 on:** June 17, 2020, 09:15:50 AM »

either in cura, or the drawing program one axis ( x or y) wwere stretched while moving the object.. go back into cura and check the x and y dimensons ( assuming this is printed standing up

BigBird · « **Reply #2 on:** June 17, 2020, 10:25:46 AM »

Thanks. I didn't change the drawing from the thingaverse stl. other than to accept defaults in Cura.
I am going to check the resistance (physical) on the rollers and try to print something smaller but round. I hate to waste this so I'll put it on the lathe and put some round holes in it.

Quote from: Rob M on June 17, 2020, 09:15:50 AM

either in cura, or the drawing program one axis ( x or y) wwere stretched while moving the object.. go back into cura and check the x and y dimensons ( assuming this is printed standing up

...and I got the roller suggestion off the internet so I guess I'm asking if you think that would be a good assessment.

Rob M · « **Reply #3 on:** June 17, 2020, 11:01:21 AM »

not a good assesment unless everything round is printing oval.. If thats the case, where any cylinder is oval then the machine has an issue ( belts, rollers , bearings whatever //
If its downloaded from thingiverse , Beware.. for whatever reason , a lot of the stuff put out there is " almost complete " or the file was edited after the fact after people requested xy and z ..

BigBird · « **Reply #4 on:** June 17, 2020, 11:13:35 AM »

Quote from: Rob M on June 17, 2020, 11:01:21 AM

not a good assesment unless everything round is printing oval.. If thats the case, where any cylinder is oval then the machine has an issue ( belts, rollers , bearings whatever //
If its downloaded from thingiverse , Beware.. for whatever reason , a lot of the stuff put out there is " almost complete " or the file was edited after the fact after people requested xy and z ..

Good to know. I will print something else round and check. Son is smarter than I so I'll have him check Cura file. Thanks

Rob M · « **Reply #5 on:** June 17, 2020, 12:07:03 PM »

theres a scale tab at the bottom of cura, when printing a cirlce , the x and y should be identical numbers.

WhatUPSbox? · « **Reply #6 on:** June 17, 2020, 06:25:34 PM »

What does the hole at the other end look like? In your picture, the pellet hole looks a lot more eccentric than then the outside diameter.

Insanity · « **Reply #7 on:** June 17, 2020, 08:36:07 PM »

The OD looks as if but in a different direction. I have messed up a lot of prints but that is one way I have not yet. Let us know what caused it.

WhatUPSbox? · « **Reply #8 on:** June 17, 2020, 09:40:10 PM »

As an aside, what is the guideline for pickle files. Can one point to a Thingiverse ID number?

BigBird · « **Reply #9 on:** June 17, 2020, 11:01:29 PM »

Quote from: WhatUPSbox? on June 17, 2020, 09:40:10 PM

As an aside, what is the guideline for pickle files. Can one point to a Thingiverse ID number?

I wont tell you how to make it and you have to find it there.
Here are all the things tagged 1377 in thingaverse. It is the V2 one (black). It's not mine so I cant vouch for it yet.

https://www.thingiverse.com/tag:1377

Quote from: Insanity on June 17, 2020, 08:36:07 PM

The OD looks as if but in a different direction. I have messed up a lot of prints but that is one way I have not yet. Let us know what caused it.

This might be the issue. In assembly we put the belt ends up, which acted like a squeegee when the printer extruder switched directions. It caused a little bit of resistance which affected the motion. I'm going to call it a newbie error. I printed a few things and it seems to look much more round.

Before:

After

Started a P17 pickle and had a different problem. PLA that came with the printer snaps and then prints hot air. Im trying to use that up.

Perfecting Plastic Parts Production per P17 Ported Pickle with PLA and a whistle that isn't wooden but it wouldn't whistle

Also printing a Daisy 856 front sight (version #3) in white.

P.S.

Quote from: WhatUPSbox? on June 17, 2020, 06:25:34 PM

What does the hole at the other end look like? In your picture, the pellet hole looks a lot more eccentric than then the outside diameter.

The hole for the barrel was also oval.

BigBird · « **Reply #10 on:** June 17, 2020, 11:16:01 PM »

Quote from: Rob M on June 17, 2020, 12:07:03 PM

theres a scale tab at the bottom of cura, when printing a cirlce , the x and y should be identical numbers.

Good to know. I have literally just used Cura as a converter (edit: )(.stl files to Gcode). I need to figure out how to use CAD so I can combine (remix) a Daisy front sight and a Pickle so I can make a pink 35 into a short range sparrow popper for my son. I used to use CAD back in the 1990s for kitchens and bath work with take-offs from blueprints. I'm not sure the software is the same now.

Insanity · « **Reply #11 on:** June 18, 2020, 05:45:56 AM »

If not stored pla will draw moisture and break also. I switched to petg it's more durable and not as reactive to sun light.

BigBird · « **Reply #12 on:** June 18, 2020, 09:35:06 AM »

Quote from: Insanity on June 18, 2020, 05:45:56 AM

If not stored pla will draw moisture and break also. I switched to petg it's more durable and not as reactive to sun light.

Ok. That info is good to know. I have one roll sitting out.

BigBird · « **Reply #13 on:** June 18, 2020, 09:55:47 AM »

Moderator please redact any parts that may violate rules. This discussion could be for any 3d part.

I figured out how to use a free program (TinkerCAD - https://www.tinkercad.com/) last night and remixed a the 856 front sight and P17 pickle. It is fairly easy to use. I literally googled 3 or 4 processes that I needed and looked at the resulting tutorials (Z axis, reduce using holes or something, merging). I used the align function but the sight is not concentric to the hole. For some reason it actually snapped right over the pickle and I zoomed all around to check it was good. The print is good and the seam is solid. However there are a few internal strings where the seam is that I will pop out. I will add an internal 🍩 in the area to mitigate. But I am pleased for my first try.

AGEnthused2 · « **Reply #14 on:** June 18, 2020, 01:30:08 PM »

What are your retraction settings?

BigBird · « **Reply #15 on:** June 18, 2020, 02:56:23 PM »

Quote from: AGEnthused2 on June 18, 2020, 01:30:08 PM

What are your retraction settings?

Ill have to check. I havent changed any settings on it (or many) as I am a newbie. I do know that I cannot print a "ledge in open space" without any support below it. I think that is what it may have been doing since there may have been a part of the front sight there. I reduced (cut off) the front of the sight and the rear of the pickle. I probably shouldnt have reduced the sight. Can you tell me about retraction? Should I set the nozzle temp lower for these ledges?

Put pickle on the pink 35 and it works ok but I think I need to do the tape mod as the barrel channel is larger than the original.

Insanity · « **Reply #16 on:** June 18, 2020, 03:53:21 PM »

Quote from: BigBird on June 18, 2020, 02:56:23 PM

Quote from: AGEnthused2 on June 18, 2020, 01:30:08 PM
What are your retraction settings?

Ill have to check. I havent changed any settings on it (or many) as I am a newbie. I do know that I cannot print a "ledge in open space" without any support below it. I think that is what it may have been doing since there may have been a part of the front sight there. I reduced (cut off) the front of the sight and the rear of the pickle. I probably shouldnt have reduced the sight. Can you tell me about retraction? Should I set the nozzle temp lower for these ledges?

Put pickle on the pink 35 and it works ok but I think I need to do the tape mod as the barrel channel is larger than the original.

Retraction pulls the filimant back into the nozzle a few mm reducing stringing on rapid movements. I set mine to 6mm.

AGEnthused2 · « **Reply #17 on:** June 18, 2020, 06:05:37 PM »

Increasing the retraction will help with the stringing inside the “pickle”.
From what information I have read and watched the retraction settings for the default cura profile for the ender3 used to be 12mm but it was reduced, 6mm would be a good start, sometimes I put mine to 8mm with a higher retraction speed. You can play with the nozzle temperature. Mine is set to 205 with my current filament, sometimes I go lower, but I have my layer height at .28 and my speed at 80 mms.
My settings may not work well for you, but I did print a file from thingiverse which is a slip on moderator for the HW97 and it’s been working well. (Upscaled to 120%)
Very little internal stringing.

Insanity · « **Reply #18 on:** June 18, 2020, 09:09:01 PM »

What works with my ender3 may not work the same for you. Everyone has really great tips but change one thing at a time. I chased my tail changing more than 1 setting at a time before. We want it to work and work perfect right now but spending several hours tuning will net repatable results later.

WhatUPSbox? · « **Reply #19 on:** June 20, 2020, 03:57:32 PM »

Dan.
Thanks for pointing out/reminding me of the P17 pickle on Thingiverse. With a slight nudge on scaling to get a gentle press fit, it only adds 4 in, and does a good job of muting the lead dust screams.
(the little spots on there are drizzle during the photo)

Thank you to our advertisers!

Oval printed pellet pickle?

Author Topic: Oval printed pellet pickle? (Read 7037 times))

AGEnthused2

AGEnthused2