Advice for a new guy with RWS Diana 350 N-Tec “classic” .22

[sbsyncro]

Tomorrow the man in the brown truck is delivering my first “serious” airgun...

The deal at AoA was too good to pass up ($245 shipped).   I also ordered a Diana ZR Bullseye scope mount and  now I’m trying to decide whether to mount it with one of the excess cheapie scopes I have laying around while I break it in or whether I should just go all-in and get a Leupold 3-9 EFR AO...  (or maybe just an inexpensive Hawke Vantage 3-9 x 40 AO)

Anyway, there is not much information I can find on this gun, so I thought I’d put out an open request for any tips/tricks that anyone can offer about the particular rifle.

I know to keep an eye on all the screws.  I have a Wheeler’s FAT wrench and will check torque on everything out of the box and probably put on some blue loctite immediately.

I’ll also give it a good cleaning.   

I got an assortment of about 5 different varieties of .22 pellets from a buddy to see what she likes. 

I’ve also seen references to making this gun a bit more “shootable” by tuning it down a bit, but I’m not clear on how one does that with a gas ram gun... (?)

Anyway, thanks in advance for the tips and tricks and any other info about this gun!

[Roadworthy]

You're right.  With the gas spring you're not going to tune it down.  Clean the barrel well - they're normally pretty dirty from the manufacturing process.  The gun will be quite difficult to cock due to the strong spring.  The pivot screw may be too tight from the factory making cocking even more difficult.  You may need to loosen the pivot screw a bit.  Pull your front stock retaining screws.  They will probably have star washers under them.  Place a small flat washer between the star washer and the stock.  Star washers eat stocks.  You should break the barrel in with a fairly soft pellet - JSB pellets are relatively soft.  Lubricate the cocking slot with a moly type lube.  By all means use the zero recoil mount.  If you have an inexpensive scope that's fine - the ZR mount should prevent harm to whatever you use.  The mount is too long for many compact scopes - it requires a tube length of about 4 3/4" between the belled ends.  Be prepared to practice a LOT to become proficient with that gun.  Heavier pellets may tame it some but it is a BEAST!!

[sbsyncro]

Some great info. Thank you.  The way everyone describes this gun I’m expecting to Soil my pants, drain my bladder, lose my shoes and rip my arm out of my socket when I shoot it for the first time!   (Can’t wait!).   

[Jshooter71]

Some great info. Thank you.  The way everyone describes this gun I’m expecting to Soil my pants, drain my bladder, lose my shoes and rip my arm out of my socket when I shoot it for the first time!   (Can’t wait!).   

Let us know how it goes... that rifle is on my wishlist... and with that deal, I might need to jump on getting myself one sooner than later. It sounds like you’re well prepared for what needs to be done for you’re first, albeit powerful rifle. I wasn’t so prepared for my first (I found GTA well after). I broke 2 scopes, trying lighter pellets, and haven’t since. But, clean it, check your screws and be patient. And since you have a friend that shoots, all the more better. As for tuning it down, with the proper equipment, some gas rams can be adjusted for internal pressure. If it were me, I wouldn’t on a .22. I should think a pellet from 14gr. to 18gr. should keep it well under 1000 FPS. Should be able to tame it.

[Yogi]

Congratulations on your new gun.

I have a Diana 340 N-tec Compact Luxus.  Similar, but not the same.
When I first got mine, the barrel pivot was so tight that it took about 80 lbs of force to cock the gun and another 80 lbs of force to close the barrel after loading.
Yes, adjust the tension on the barrel pivot bolt if this is your case.
Also, the leade, loading port has a chamfer on it.  Mine was so tight that it clipped and bent the bottom of the pellet skirts when you closed the barrel.  A little JB non-embedding bore paste and a brass brush and some elbow grease fixed that.

The stock is a bit different.  I love it!  It is the most attractive gun I own.  The blueing under my muzzle brake is very poor, I do intent to reblue the last 3-4 inches of my barrel.
The finish is not deeply blued.  I believe that it is Parkerized instead of blued.  I hope yours has the gold trigger blade.
Take pictures and let us know how you like it.
Oh, one last thing, my gun LOVES the copper coated FTT 14.6 grain pellets.  The more corroded the better.  It can shoot 1/2 inch groups at 31 yards.
Trigger is a great hunting trigger, more one stage than 2.
HTH,

-Yogi

[Yogi]

Some great info. Thank you.  The way everyone describes this gun I’m expecting to Soil my pants, drain my bladder, lose my shoes and rip my arm out of my socket when I shoot it for the first time!   (Can’t wait!).   

Wear diapers.

-Y

[Arch_E]

Tomorrow the man in the brown truck is delivering my first “serious” airgun...

The deal at AoA was too good to pass up ($245 shipped).   I also ordered a Diana ZR Bullseye scope mount and  now I’m trying to decide whether to mount it with one of the excess cheapie scopes I have laying around while I break it in or whether I should just go all-in and get a Leupold 3-9 EFR AO...  (or maybe just an inexpensive Hawke Vantage 3-9 x 40 AO)

Anyway, there is not much information I can find on this gun, so I thought I’d put out an open request for any tips/tricks that anyone can offer about the particular rifle.

I know to keep an eye on all the screws.  I have a Wheeler’s FAT wrench and will check torque on everything out of the box and probably put on some blue loctite immediately.

I’ll also give it a good cleaning.   

I got an assortment of about 5 different varieties of .22 pellets from a buddy to see what she likes. 

I’ve also seen references to making this gun a bit more “shootable” by tuning it down a bit, but I’m not clear on how one does that with a gas ram gun... (?)

Anyway, thanks in advance for the tips and tricks and any other info about this gun!

Congrats on a great price for a magnum springer!

Are you already a veteran shooter? Have you shot other mags?

If so, take pics and send us your success stories!

If not, be patient; start practicing at a shorter distance (like 10 yards) and work out from there. Do try a lot of pellets to see if your new gun is picky or if it gives you similar results.
Lastly, my rifles exhibited different break in traits: the Gamo took over 1,000 pellets to settle in (rated at 1300 fps), was very pellet picky but not hold sensitive. My Crosman (rated at 1200 fps) settled in with less than 100 shots but remain pellet picky and hold sensitive, with a trigger that screams to be replaced. My Weihrauchs shot incredible from the first first pellet.

Most of all, enjoy what I read Hector M. says is a truly innovative gun!

Archie

[SteveP-52]

Word of note on gas rammed guns and something Hector has mentioned and that's storing it when not in use. Gas rams have a small amount of silicone inside them to keep the seals in the ram lubricated. Not sure how the ram is installed in that one, but they need to be stored with the ram body up so that silicone stays down and around those seals so they don't dry out.

[dtdtdtdt]

While trying out pellets, check out the Straightshooters.com site.  They have a pellet sampler pack that has 25 each of 18 different pellets to try. 

Since yours is brand-new, I suggest/agree that you should shoot a whole tin of softer pellets to begin to break it in before getting serious with choosing a pellet.

I use the ZR mounts exclusively on my Diana/RWS 54s and haven't had a problem with any scope since.  Don't invest in a new scope for it until you figure out what you need. 

One thing that I ran into is that some scopes for "target" have very fine cross hairs and dots that are very difficult to see against anything but a white paper background.  If your desire is to shoot vermin with it, I suggest a bit coarser crosshairs or "lighted" ones.  I have a Hawke in the box that will be going on one of my 54s to fix the crosshair problem shortly.  Perhaps even today.

Cheers and good luck.

[mpbby]

In my airgun shooting, “90+++” % is with the Diana 350 .22 (coils spring).  Dozens of thousands rounds. The more consistent pellet has been the HN Field Target Trophy (“FTT”), and I choose the 5.53.

After a looong learning curve about holding, resting, squeezing the trigger, my WORST!!! nightmare is when I suspect the scope is not anymore capable of holding zero (or would it just be that usual shooter inconsistency?).

So, to start, and besides a ‘dampa’ mount, I would go with a Hawke Airmax.

Just to let you know, my all-in in progress (interrupted by the virus), is – 2 dampa mounts (at the same time) and a Hawke Airmax 30 mm.

Btw, I didn’t find a Leupold with a reticle that I like, and the parallax is usually not adjustable.

Just in case, I think that (finally..) I found out an ‘approach’ to know if a scope is STILL trustable -

  https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=169344.0

[sbsyncro]

Thanks everyone!   I received a bunch of pellets from a friend that no longer shoots 22.   Since I have not seen brinell numbers published on any of these pellets, perhaps someone in the know can tell me the relative hardness/softness of what I have on hand:

Crosman Copperhead (Wadcutter, 14.7 grn on my scale)
RWS Hobby Sport Line (Wadcutter, 11.9 grn)
H & N Baracuda (Domed, 21.1 grn)
Crosman Premier (Hollow Point, 14.3 grn)

In addition, he gave me a box full of jumbled random pellets, which I sorted and weighed.  Perhaps you can help me ID them:





I have about 20 to 50 of each of these...

The first ones (21.1 grain) look a lot like the H&N Baracudas...

Which of these do you recommend for break-in?

[dtdtdtdt]

From the mixed pellets shoot them all in sequence - 5 shot groups each at about 20 yds.  It will help get your barrel broken in.  Take the better ones, shoot additional groups until they are all gone. 

Try the tins your friend gave you.  They cover a substantial weight range and should give you an idea of how the rifle does.  Personally, I haven't had good luck with the copper coated pellets.  The wadcutters probably won't do well in your high power gun.  Most likely you will do best with the domed pellets because the weight is forward and they have higher ballistic coefficients.  Generally, a velocity around 850f/s will give best accuracy in most air rifles.  The very light pellet might get close to supersonic and not be too stable. 

I estimate hardness with my calibrated thumb and forefinger.  Squeeze a pellet to see if you can deform it.  The harder you have to squeeze, the harder the pellet. 

Second, and my real recommendation after doing the above to season the barrel a little and get used to the rifle with no real investment.  Go to Straightshooters.com, buy their sampler pack for the .22. (About $40 total)  It will have 25 each of 18 different "better" pellets from different vendors pellets.  Repeat group shooting to compare accuracy.  From that group, buy a tin of the top three and keep practicing until you are happy with your results. 

H&N and JSB are among the best pellets I have used.  Others will give you their thoughts but your results from your rifle are what you need.  LISTEN TO ROADWORTHY ON PELLETS AND BREAKING IN...

[DanD]

...
In addition, he gave me a box full of jumbled random pellets, which I sorted and weighed.  Perhaps you can help me ID them:


...
Which of these do you recommend for break-in?

L - R
H&N Baracuda (or Baracuda Match), H&N Baracuda Hunter Extreme, H&N Crow Magnum, JSB Predator Polymag, RWS Super Hollowpoint, JSB RS (or Air Arms Falcon).

You can test them all, but the RS and Hobbies might be too light for good shot cycle and accuracy from the 350.

Have fun!

[sbsyncro]

You guys are awesome.   I'm on a lot of different forums (too many hobbies!) and I have to say that my experience here in the short 24 hours since I joined has been amazing.  The signal-to-noise ratio seems extremely high. 

Research Prep, Phase I Complete:

Btw, I didn’t find a Leupold with a reticle that I like, and the parallax is usually not adjustable.

This is the one I was looking at:  Leupold VX-Freedom EFR 3-9x33. (this forum does not allow links?).  I don't have one, but it looks like really nice setup for hunting.

Adjustable objective from about 8 yards.  My biggest concern is that the distance between bells may be a hair short for the Diana Bullseye mount.  Looking at the specs for the Leupold, the mounting area is 122mm and the total length of the Diana Bullseye mount is 121mm.   A tight fit, to be sure...

I was thinking about the Hawke Airmax 3-9×40 AO AMX, but the mounting surface is only 114mm, so the Diana mount won't fit...

The one thing I do know for sure is that I won't be going with a Leapers or UTG scope.  They are purportedly great values, but I just don't like all the gadgetry at a $100 price point (36 color reticle?  Seriously?)

[dtdtdtdt]

Since you said you are 50tting a ZR base, you have a broad range of scopes.  I have a Hawke Advantage 4-12x50 that has plenty of length to put on with the ZR base.  I also checked a other scopes in my inventory Bushnell, Sightron, Weaver, all of which had sufficient room to be adjusted to get the eye relief where I wanted it. 

Diana/RWS 54s are known as scope killers too.  However, I have only lost one scope before I got the zr bases.  It was the OEM RWS scope that came with the rifle on the one piece RWS drooper mount.  Since I bought the rifle used, I don't really know how old it was but I used it for 5+years and many thousands of shots.  It failed by the objective lens loosening and a broken o-ring / seal being visible inside.  If I had wanted, I suspect that putting a bead of silicone around the outside of the objective bell would have fixed it.  But I wanted a new toy so.....

Most important is to get a reticle system that you like.  I have a Weaver T series scope that has such a fine reticle and 1/8" minute dot that I can't see the darn thing. 
Brand new, bought as a 1/4 price close out,  it lives in a box.  The second is the a Sightron (wonderful mid-priced scope!!!) that has a more elaborate MOA type reticle.  Against a target background, its wonderful.  Against a green/tree background while assassinating chipmunks, I can barely see the reticle at all!!!    A warning though, I have serious vision issues that are getting worse with age... Your results would probably be different!!

[Yogi]

You guys are awesome.   I'm on a lot of different forums (too many hobbies!) and I have to say that my experience here in the short 24 hours since I joined has been amazing.  The signal-to-noise ratio seems extremely high. 

Research Prep, Phase I Complete:

Btw, I didn’t find a Leupold with a reticle that I like, and the parallax is usually not adjustable.

This is the one I was looking at:  Leupold VX-Freedom EFR 3-9x33. (this forum does not allow links?).  I don't have one, but it looks like really nice setup for hunting.

Adjustable objective from about 8 yards.  My biggest concern is that the distance between bells may be a hair short for the Diana Bullseye mount.  Looking at the specs for the Leupold, the mounting area is 122mm and the total length of the Diana Bullseye mount is 121mm.   A tight fit, to be sure...

I was thinking about the Hawke Airmax 3-9×40 AO AMX, but the mounting surface is only 114mm, so the Diana mount won't fit...

The one thing I do know for sure is that I won't be going with a Leapers or UTG scope.  They are purportedly great values, but I just don't like all the gadgetry at a $100 price point (36 color reticle?  Seriously?)

FWIW-On my first airgun, I put a $300 scope on a $200 gun.

For extra $$ you can send the Leopold in to their custom shop and they will put any reticle you want in them.

My 340 N-tec wears an Optisan Cobra 3-9 X 40 scope.  This is my hunting rig and it is DEADLY.

-Y

PS with enough posts you will be able to post pictures and links.

[Yogi]

I hope you are not disappointed, but A of A's website say that the 350 N-tec weights 6.7 lbs.  WRONG!  Closer to 8.5-9 lbs.HTH.

-Y

[sbsyncro]

I hope you are not disappointed, but A of A's website say that the 350 N-tec weights 6.7 lbs.  WRONG!  Closer to 8.5-9 lbs.HTH.

-Y

I knew that had to be wrong, even with the beech “classic” stock which is slimmer than the “premium” version.  Heck I have a CZ452 American in 17hmr that weighs more than that!

[sbsyncro]

You're right.  With the gas spring you're not going to tune it down.  Clean the barrel well - they're normally pretty dirty from the manufacturing process.  The gun will be quite difficult to cock due to the strong spring.  The pivot screw may be too tight from the factory making cocking even more difficult.  You may need to loosen the pivot screw a bit.  Pull your front stock retaining screws.  They will probably have star washers under them.  Place a small flat washer between the star washer and the stock.  Star washers eat stocks.  You should break the barrel in with a fairly soft pellet - JSB pellets are relatively soft.  Lubricate the cocking slot with a moly type lube.  By all means use the zero recoil mount.  If you have an inexpensive scope that's fine - the ZR mount should prevent harm to whatever you use.  The mount is too long for many compact scopes - it requires a tube length of about 4 3/4" between the belled ends.  Be prepared to practice a LOT to become proficient with that gun.  Heavier pellets may tame it some but it is a BEAST!!

Rifle just arrived.   Boy you weren't kidding about the pivot being tight - I can barely swing it closed after it is cocked.   Does loosening the pivot also decrease accuracy?

Also does regular automotive moly (assmembly lube) do the trick?

[mpbby]

When the cocking shoe is disengaged, the rule of thumb to the pivot torque usually is - 'just enough' to barely hold the barrel.  No problems with accuracy.