Author Topic: Found a great deal on a Sheridan (Read 2932 times))

Van · « **Reply #20 on:** January 30, 2020, 09:24:01 AM »

It dumps all the air, just has a bit of pressure left between the pump cup and valve after the shot. It will rise a bit when you open the pump arm like all the air did not get into the valve. Well it held air overnight and had a great blast of air this morning. Enough to blow a full roll of paper towels flying off the work bench. Going to order some .20cal. today and will know more when I can use the crony. Its my first Sheridan, but I resealed a Benjamin 312 a few years ago with the same Mac1 hard seals and they did not have the residual pressure. Mac1 site says hard check seals must have a perfect polished seat. Had to clean a lot of the old rubber seal off the seat, but I think it was good to go. The 312 did take a few days to stop leaking down and now holds air for months. Going to order a softer factory type check seal from JM just in case. Going to work on the old stock now, maybe duplicate it in some Calico Hardwood if it turns out to be a good shooter.

Cloud 9 · « **Reply #21 on:** January 30, 2020, 01:40:53 PM »

Quote from: Van on January 29, 2020, 08:03:15 PM

Thanks guys, once I cleaned out the holes I found it was a set screw. they came right out.

Good that you got those set screws loose since they are not traditional hex-head screws, they are.069 4-flute bristol head set screws. I bought a couple of spline wrenches to remove them on my Sheridans.

Van · « **Reply #22 on:** January 30, 2020, 01:54:56 PM »

So that's what they are. I thought someone had messed them up. I used some WD 40 on them and a small flat precision screw driver tapped in across the holes. They came right out.

bantam5s · « **Reply #23 on:** January 31, 2020, 03:04:06 AM »

Glad you got it working again.
Hope you love it.

I have come to enjoy and appreciate some other vintage guns as much as my blue streak, but it will always be my favorite.
Probably sentimental reasons but there really is something special about these Sheridan rifles, the way they shoot feel and handle is just right.

Van · « **Reply #24 on:** January 31, 2020, 03:21:37 PM »

Got some work done yesterday. Stripped the stock, fixed a few gouges, then cleaned and degreased the tube. I used Birchwood Casey Brass Black to touch up the many places the brass was showing through the black. It takes a lot of coats to get a real black finish. Stubborn spots take the finish better if you use a cotton ball soaked in the stuff on top of the spot . Leave the cotton ball on a few minutes but don't let it dry out. It looks more like the original finish than the gun coat stuff. Tips online say wax with pure Carnauba Wax and it will stay on the metal. Need to sand the stock, wet to raise the grain, finish sand it. I plan to use True Oil buffed with OOOO steal wood to a sheen,not high gloss.

Hoosier Daddy · « **Reply #25 on:** January 31, 2020, 03:52:08 PM »

Looking good!
True Oil buffed with OOOO steal wood to a sheen,not high gloss is one of my favorite finishes.
6-8 light coats rubbed in small sections until you feel the heat, then onto the next section while it is still wet.
Let each coat dry and buff with the steel wool before applying the next coat.

avator · « **Reply #26 on:** January 31, 2020, 03:54:20 PM »

Sounds like a good plan....
Good move not taking the forearm off of the linkage.

Van · « **Reply #27 on:** January 31, 2020, 05:34:06 PM »

Those pins in the forearm are in deep. You could do damage getting them out, not necessary if you are just refinishing. Trigger guard on this one was riveted on so I left it as is and worked around it.

Hoosier Daddy · « **Reply #28 on:** January 31, 2020, 08:51:54 PM »

gracious... wrong thread.

avator · « **Reply #29 on:** January 31, 2020, 10:14:58 PM »

... pay no attention to the man behind the curtain...

RBQChicken · « **Reply #30 on:** January 31, 2020, 10:32:40 PM »

Quote from: Van on January 31, 2020, 03:21:37 PM

Got some work done yesterday. Stripped the stock, fixed a few gouges, then cleaned and degreased the tube. I used Birchwood Casey Brass Black to touch up the many places the brass was showing through the black. It takes a lot of coats to get a real black finish. Stubborn spots take the finish better if you use a cotton ball soaked in the stuff on top of the spot . Leave the cotton ball on a few minutes but don't let it dry out. It looks more like the original finish than the gun coat stuff. Tips online say wax with pure Carnauba Wax and it will stay on the metal. Need to sand the stock, wet to raise the grain, finish sand it. I plan to use True Oil buffed with OOOO steal wood to a sheen,not high gloss.

Did you notice if that Brass Black stuff did any damage to the surrounding original black finish?

Van · « **Reply #31 on:** January 31, 2020, 11:10:51 PM »

The brass black did no damage to original finish it only oxidizes the bare brass. The color blends in well and is fairly tough but thin. I used a bunch of coats as the first one starts slow to change the color to black. It is recommended to wax it or seal it to cut down wear. I could not rub it off while polishing the tube with a rag and wax. It pays to use a new bottle of the stuff if you have had it open a while. The old bottle I had opened for a year or two did nothing so I guess it was past its shelf life. I degreased it first with dish soap then 90% rubbing alcohol.

19Sheridan57 · « **Reply #32 on:** February 01, 2020, 07:28:23 AM »

Quote from: Van on January 31, 2020, 05:34:06 PM

Those pins in the forearm are in deep. You could do damage getting them out, not necessary if you are just refinishing. Trigger guard on this one was riveted on so I left it as is and worked around it.

Here is a thread with suggestions on those trigger guard rivets.

https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=165203.msg155845195#msg155845195

bantam5s · « **Reply #33 on:** February 01, 2020, 08:41:43 PM »

Looking great so far.

Way to go.

Van · « **Reply #34 on:** February 01, 2020, 10:54:45 PM »

Got one coat of True Oil rubbed in. Will keep it up until I think it looks best. It sure looks different than when I pulled it out of a junk pile. Does anyone know what size O ring will fit the .20 cal. bolt? The one on it works ok but is very hard from age. If I pull this one off it will most likely tear up. Well, I just found a Sheridan rebuild manual online. It said AS586-004

RBQChicken · « **Reply #35 on:** February 02, 2020, 08:26:20 AM »

Wow, that's looking great!

Hoosier Daddy · « **Reply #36 on:** February 02, 2020, 09:12:34 AM »

Beautiful!

Van · « **Reply #37 on:** February 02, 2020, 12:03:09 PM »

Thanks for the compliments. The O ring for the bolt should be AS568-004, I transposed the 568 in my last post. Anyone know what the FPS should be on a new reseal with the Benjamin 14.3g pellets. Another Airgun Blog online, where I got the rebuild info, said he got 645fps on 8 pumps. I wondered if that's the norm. My .20 cal. pellets have not got here yet.

19Sheridan57 · « **Reply #38 on:** February 02, 2020, 12:10:13 PM »

Your results after overhauling a Sheridan can fluctuate some. About 625-650 is typical from what I have seen in mine. Even if it is around 600fps, that is still a loss of less than 10% since NEW ! I don't get overly concerned unless it is below 600fps . NOTE: JSB Exact pellets are a better choice than Benjamin Sheridan. They are a tad lighter, so shoot faster , & are more accurate. The B.S. will penetrate a bit more for hunting.

Van · « **Reply #39 on:** February 02, 2020, 12:18:32 PM »

Thanks Steve, I will try those next. I just ordered the Benjamins as I have never had a .20cal. before. Today I am making some tool steel round pins with C clips for the front end. I never liked split pins that come on these guns and the 392s.

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Found a great deal on a Sheridan

Author Topic: Found a great deal on a Sheridan (Read 2932 times))