removing and re-installing Sheridan trigger guard rivets twice?

[RBQChicken]

Has anyone removed and re-installed Sheridan trigger guard rivets twice?  I want to re-refinish one of my guns and just wonder if the trigger guard rivets will be able to withstand another go-around without breaking. Thanks!

[19Sheridan57]

   I do not like those rivets in the Sheridans. Yes, you may reuse those, but it gets hard to tighten the guard up the way it should be.Even though it is not original, I have never seen it hurt the value of one to change it to original size screws.  Drill out holes from rivets, glue a short piece of dowel in the hole & let dry. Touch up the area with wood stain, Old English Scratch Cover , etc. Paint the head of the new screws , black. [ Black fingernail polish from a Dollar Store works great ] Drill small pilot holes for the screws & re-install.

[TooJung2Die]

   I do not like those rivets in the Sheridans.

Me too. I replace the rivets with machine screws and nuts on the inside. You'll have to drill out a small relief so the nuts are sunk and flush with the inside and don't contact the receiver. Use Birchwood Casey cold blue on the screw heads so they match the trigger guard.

[Goose]

You can reuse them if you anneal them first.  I like to keep things original if possible.

I'd immerse the lower part in water to keep the metal from softening too much, then heat them with a torch until they just barely glow, then let them cool off gradually.  (Perhaps by slowly increasing the distance to the flame.)  If you quench them after heating, they'll harden.

I couldn't find my metallurgy book, but found this - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Annealing_%28metallurgy%29

Be  safe,

J~

[Dave S]

 Use Birchwood Casey cold blue on the screw heads so they match the trigger guard.quote author

You can reuse them if you anneal them first.  I like to keep things original if possible.

I'd immerse the lower part in water to keep the metal from softening too much, then heat them with a torch until they just barely glow, then let them cool off gradually.  (Perhaps by slowly increasing the distance to the flame.)  If you quench them after heating, they'll harden.

I couldn't find my metallurgy book, but found this - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Annealing_%28metallurgy%29

Be  safe,

J~

Love It!......... And..... Birchwood- Casey "Aluminum Black" for all non-ferrous metals. Another trick is to heat up the part (red hot) and dunk it in old motor oil...better known as a Poor man's "Iron Oxide!" Turn's 'em Black..and pretty rust resistant!  Please, don't use commercial paint on any weapon unless absolutely necessary. dave

[RBQChicken]

   I do not like those rivets in the Sheridans.

Me too. I replace the rivets with machine screws and nuts on the inside. You'll have to drill out a small relief so the nuts are sunk and flush with the inside and don't contact the receiver. Use Birchwood Casey cold blue on the screw heads so they match the trigger guard.

Good idea.
I remember reading about a threaded, cylindrical piece you can get somewhere that would be glued in place in the stock holes and then you'd us machine screws to attach the guard.  Anyone know where to get them? Seems they'd be a little tidier looking than countersunk nuts.  Thanks.

[RBQChicken]

You can reuse them if you anneal them first.  I like to keep things original if possible.

I'd immerse the lower part in water to keep the metal from softening too much, then heat them with a torch until they just barely glow, then let them cool off gradually.  (Perhaps by slowly increasing the distance to the flame.)  If you quench them after heating, they'll harden.

I couldn't find my metallurgy book, but found this - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Annealing_%28metallurgy%29

Be  safe,

J~

I've done the annealing thing with copper tubing, works great.  I didn't know you can do that with steel.  My first thought was "would it be too soft that it wouldn't hold when you bent the prongs back over after reinstalling" .

I'm not sure I understand what you mean when you say "submerge the lower part in water, then heat them".  Do  you mean  I should have the rivet heads sitting in water with the legs standing up out of the water while I heat the legs?  Thanks.

[RBQChicken]

Use Birchwood Casey cold blue on the screw heads so they match the trigger guard.quote author

You can reuse them if you anneal them first.  I like to keep things original if possible.

I'd immerse the lower part in water to keep the metal from softening too much, then heat them with a torch until they just barely glow, then let them cool off gradually.  (Perhaps by slowly increasing the distance to the flame.)  If you quench them after heating, they'll harden.

I couldn't find my metallurgy book, but found this - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Annealing_%28metallurgy%29

Be  safe,

J~

Love It!......... And..... Birchwood- Casey "Aluminum Black" for all non-ferrous metals. Another trick is to heat up the part (red hot) and dunk it in old motor oil...better known as a Poor man's "Iron Oxide!" Turn's 'em Black..and pretty rust resistant!  Please, don't use commercial paint on any weapon unless absolutely necessary. dave

Could you use new motor oil to turn them black, or do you need the crud in the old motor oil to make them black.  Doesn't really matter to me since I have Van's gun blue on hand which would turn them black, but I'm just curious. Thanks.

[Dave S]

Use Birchwood Casey cold blue on the screw heads so they match the trigger guard.quote author

You can reuse them if you anneal them first.  I like to keep things original if possible.

I'd immerse the lower part in water to keep the metal from softening too much, then heat them with a torch until they just barely glow, then let them cool off gradually.  (Perhaps by slowly increasing the distance to the flame.)  If you quench them after heating, they'll harden.

I couldn't find my metallurgy book, but found this - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Annealing_%28metallurgy%29

Be  safe,

J~

Love It!......... And..... Birchwood- Casey "Aluminum Black" for all non-ferrous metals. Another trick is to heat up the part (red hot) and dunk it in old motor oil...better known as a Poor man's "Iron Oxide!" Turn's 'em Black..and pretty rust resistant!  Please, don't use commercial paint on any weapon unless absolutely necessary. dave

Could you use new motor oil to turn them black, or do you need the crud in the old motor oil to make them black.  Doesn't really matter to me since I have Van's gun blue on hand which would turn them black, but I'm just curious. Thanks.

Any motor oil works!...But "Old Oil" adds..........character!  dave

[19Sheridan57]

  The threaded inserts are available at Home Depot.

[RBQChicken]

Thanks!

[Goose]

I've done the annealing thing with copper tubing, works great.  I didn't know you can do that with steel.  My first thought was "would it be too soft that it wouldn't hold when you bent the prongs back over after reinstalling" .

I'm not sure I understand what you mean when you say "submerge the lower part in water, then heat them".  Do  you mean  I should have the rivet heads sitting in water with the legs standing up out of the water while I heat the legs?  Thanks.

That's it exactly.  I was just thinking of ways to preserve the blueing on the rivets because too much heat will ruin it.  You could wrap a wet rag around the rivet head while you heat it and it would accomplish the same thing.  You have to let them cool slowly in order for them to be ductile enough to bend without breaking.

Luck,

J~

[RBQChicken]

Got it. Thanks again.

[kelvinator]

My pins broke off while removing them.
I was able to fab a new set out some 16p nails.
It took several tries and more time than it was worth but it worked out well.

[RBQChicken]

I've taken them off of two different guns so I could refinish them, and had no breakage and was able to get them to hold real tight when I reinstalled them.  I want to strip one of those guns and refinish again to try a different finish, and that's why I'm wondering if anyone has successfully done it twice on the same gun without them breaking.  Probably unlikely anyone did the same gun twice.  The annealing thing is probably the safe way to go (IF I actually follow through with the refinish).  Thanks!

[Hoosier Daddy]

Why not just replace them? You can still buy split rivets today in assorted head style, diameters, lengths, and colors.

[RBQChicken]

The one on the right looks perfect. Where did you get that pic?

[Hoosier Daddy]

The one on the right looks perfect. Where did you get that pic?

I got it from a simple Google search of "Split Rivet" but that particular pic originated from an amazon listing.

[RBQChicken]

I knew it was some kind of rivet but wouldn't have thought to search for "split rivet".  Good to know. Thanks.

[19Sheridan57]

 As I mentioned above, I use a short piece of wooden dowel. I have an infinite supply of oak that I use , rather than hardware store dowels, which may be a softer wood.