I use 1000+ of finer as posted if burrs are present. If not, I use a small oak dowel rod with a slot in the end with ultra fine Crocus cloth by norton or 3m on it. APX 2000 grit. JSAR has a tutorial in it on their vid's listed on their site. Some like th F-I-R-T-H system first shown here on the forum. I just did one for one of our members. It imbeds nylon or teflon buttons in the hammer to glide on. Works wonders!Knife
I use 1000+ of finer as posted if burrs are present. If not, I use a small oak dowel rod with a slot in the end with ultra fine Crocus cloth by norton or 3m on it. APX 2000 grit. JSAR has a tutorial in it on their vid's listed on their site. Knife
When I polish the inside of the tube where the hammer slides, I use a 12 gauge shotgun brush wrapped with 000 steel wool. I polish it until it shines and then brush it and the hammer edges with a dry lubricant like Molybdenum Disulfide. Before I polish the inside of the tube, I take a fine file and remove any burrs from the inside edges of any openings to ensure nothing is sticking in to cause scratches or damage o-rings if you need to slide anything past that openings. If you are going to use sandpaper I would use 1000 grit or finer and not go any longer than it takes to bring out a shine. Sand paper will remove more metal faster than the steel wool will, so take it slow.
Quote from: Rat Sniper (AKA: PaulT58) on November 16, 2019, 08:36:59 AMWhen I polish the inside of the tube where the hammer slides, I use a 12 gauge shotgun brush wrapped with 000 steel wool. I polish it until it shines and then brush it and the hammer edges with a dry lubricant like Molybdenum Disulfide. Before I polish the inside of the tube, I take a fine file and remove any burrs from the inside edges of any openings to ensure nothing is sticking in to cause scratches or damage o-rings if you need to slide anything past that openings. If you are going to use sandpaper I would use 1000 grit or finer and not go any longer than it takes to bring out a shine. Sand paper will remove more metal faster than the steel wool will, so take it slow.What do you think about fine graphite powder?
I'm a retired Knifemaker. Hard steel is my world. LOL!LOL LOL
Exactly why I like the FIRTH system.
Most of the hammers have a very hard surface, but very soft underneath the very thin layer of hardened surface. Have to ver very careful and not really remove anything.
Here is one I did for Chris. www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=164159.0
For a real rough hammer surface replace it, if moderately rough polish and burnish in some Moly powder and call it good enough IMO less contact surface with smooth contact points and passage. I wonder if something like JB weld could be used to resurface a rough hammer or tube