So if you didn't do anything airgun related what did you do today?

[Sqrl Klr]

Sam maybe freezing them in water with lemon juice would help the fish last longer and taste better too.

Brett good job. I need to do that as well just haven't yet and mine looks worse than yours did I'm betting. I remember last time I cleaned mine off it was blinding on that moon lit night.

Scott now that's funny. Meanwhile it's almost as hot as my exes out here.

[2A Georgia]

Packed up all my PB reloading stuff to trade with a member for all the Casting stuff I need.
I will now be able to cast 22 & 30 cal and have a 110/12v compressor.
Once I get all the casting area set up I can start on the pellet trap range plans I have :-)

[bantam5s]

Maintenance time for some of my hammer handles.

Just a light rub down with some steel wool then a healthy dose of BLO.

[Matchstickshooter]

 Working on something else my old work buddy left for me last week...
 guy at one yard sale gave it to him when he asked about it.... the most abused knife I've ever seen .
 It is a PAL RH 36  Army/Air Corps knife.  WW 2      Rusted and pitted, leather handle completely gone. Found in a barn.
      I have ended up cleaning the rust (white vinegar soak) polishing as best I could with finer grits of sand paper.
 Thinking most knifes now are non-reflective so I cold-blued it. 
In the process of a leather stack handle. It will never be pretty, but it will be a working knife again. something to do.
 

[Madd Hatter]

Packed up all my PB reloading stuff to trade with a member for all the Casting stuff I need.
I will now be able to cast 22 & 30 cal and have a 110/12v compressor.
Once I get all the casting area set up I can start on the pellet trap range plans I have :-)

I hope you kept the press. If you're casting slugs you'll need to resize them to fit your groove diameter and noe has some great resizing tools for use with a reloading press. Not real expensive either.

[Hoosier Daddy]

Packing the camper and heading home... Nice and slow. It's friggin hot already and not even 10:00!!!

[anti-squirrel]

Off vacation now- back at work.

I've done nothing except put away some laundry outside of my "day job".  Sonja reached out to our contractor; he said he's hoping to have the building erected within the next week or so.

[Madd Hatter]

Have to go over to seligman to meet up with a notary to sign some paperwork for my wife's suit from getting hit by that truck almost 2 years ago along with taking some trash to the transfer station also in seligman. Then we're going to head down to Chino valley and do our bi monthly grocery shopping. We get 10% off senior discount at Safeway first Wed of the month. Then on the 15th we get another 10% off for being veterans.🎉 Use the Amex card and get 6% cash back on top of it. Got to look for every discount we can to survive these days.

[anti-squirrel]

Alrighty, so I spent lunch working on a crank arm for a beach cruiser I picked up over the weekend.  I'm just trying to remove a pedal.  Nothing fancy.  I spent some time on it yesterday, whereby I damaged 2 different combination wrenches (1 Snap-On, 1 Craftsman) and 1 Park Tools pedal wrench.  This includes using 1/4 tank of canned heat (I melted the plastic body of the pedal), copious amounts of multiple penetrating fluids, brute force (4 foot cheater pipe on a 2 foot pipe wrench).... Still, no dice.

Today I chose a different strategy: drilling it out.

Nope, no dice.  The axle shaft sheared, and I still have a crank arm with a thin section of pedal axel siezed in it.  I'm cursing the yokel POS who assembled this bicycle as he/she didn't use anti-seize.  I've worked at multiple bike shops over the last 4 decades on a part-time basis doing piece-work assembling and repairing bikes and truing/building wheels, and this is the first time I ever encountered a pedal this bad.  Forged aluminum and not-quite-tool steel pedal shaft gall bad, but if you let it sit overnight with some good penetrating fluid, you can usually use a Park Tools pedal wrench and spin the pedal off one handed.

So I ordered a new bottom bracket and cranks.  Sometimes, the best solution to a problem is bypassing the problem completely.

[Bicycleman]

Alrighty, so I spent lunch working on a crank arm for a beach cruiser I picked up over the weekend.  I'm just trying to remove a pedal.  Nothing fancy.  I spent some time on it yesterday, then after an hour and some change whereby I damaged 2 different combination wrenches (1 Snap-On, 1 Craftsman) and 1 Park Tools pedal wrench.

Today I choise a different strategy

Would the different strategy be 'Oxy Acetelene'?

[avator]

Alrighty, so I spent lunch working on a crank arm for a beach cruiser I picked up over the weekend.  I'm just trying to remove a pedal.  Nothing fancy.  I spent some time on it yesterday, then after an hour and some change whereby I damaged 2 different combination wrenches (1 Snap-On, 1 Craftsman) and 1 Park Tools pedal wrench.

Today I choise a different strategy

Would the different strategy be 'Oxy Acetelene'?

BFH?
Or maybe let Sonya do it?   

[anti-squirrel]

Alrighty, so I spent lunch working on a crank arm for a beach cruiser I picked up over the weekend.  I'm just trying to remove a pedal.  Nothing fancy.  I spent some time on it yesterday, then after an hour and some change whereby I damaged 2 different combination wrenches (1 Snap-On, 1 Craftsman) and 1 Park Tools pedal wrench.

Today I choise a different strategy

Would the different strategy be 'Oxy Acetelene'?

BFH?
Or maybe let Sonya do it?   

Sonja actually held the JawForce vice while I yoinked on the cheater pipe last night after heating the crank up.  And though I don't own an OxyAcetylne torch or Turbo Torch anymore, the darn thing still resisted OxyMapp + cheater-pipe again today.  I soaked the entire assembly in penetrating fluid over night, plus I double-tapped the crank around the pedal boss with 2 8 pound hammers (do it simultaneously with the hammers 180 degrees apart).  Freaking ridiculous.  I never even had hydraulic valves gall this bad at shore duty and they were exposed to saltwater with gnarly corrosion.

Oh, and technically, I should say 35 years of working at bike shops part time.  Not quite 4 decades. 

[avator]

Ok, I'm sure you thought of this but.. is it right hand or left hand thread?
If I'm not mistaken they are opposite depending on which side of the bike.

[anti-squirrel]

Ok, I'm sure you thought of this but.. is it right hand or left hand thread?

oh most certainly.  Left side is left-hand thread, right hand is right... and this is the right pedal.  Lefty-loosey should have made short work of it, and the R was clear as day on the inside end of the pedal.  I say was since all that metal is now drill shavings.

Kinda funny, the left-side pedal was barely finger tight, but it popped loose as soon as I stuck a wrench on it- one handed, no less.

I did shoot a test to a buddy of mine who still works part-time in a shop and he said he's never seen anything gall/bind like that on a crank arm, either.  Usually, you strip out threads even if not crossthreaded when you yoink with a cheater-pipe, but apparently whomever forged the crank arm used some magical aluminum alloy that resists a cheater pipe + heat + penetrating fluid.

[Rabbit\Squirrel Killer]

Alrighty, so I spent lunch working on a crank arm for a beach cruiser I picked up over the weekend.  I'm just trying to remove a pedal.  Nothing fancy.  I spent some time on it yesterday, then after an hour and some change whereby I damaged 2 different combination wrenches (1 Snap-On, 1 Craftsman) and 1 Park Tools pedal wrench.

Today I choise a different strategy

Would the different strategy be 'Oxy Acetelene'?

BFH?
Or maybe let Sonya do it?   

Sonja actually held the JawForce vice while I yoinked on the cheater pipe last night after heating the crank up.  And though I don't own an OxyAcetylne torch or Turbo Torch anymore, the darn thing still resisted OxyMapp + cheater-pipe again today.  I soaked the entire assembly in penetrating fluid over night, plus I double-tapped the crank around the pedal boss with 2 8 pound hammers (do it simultaneously with the hammers 180 degrees apart).  Freaking ridiculous.  I never even had hydraulic valves gall this bad at shore duty and they were exposed to saltwater with gnarly corrosion.

Oh, and technically, I should say 35 years of working at bike shops part time.  Not quite 4 decades. 

Left hand thread?

[avator]

Alrighty, so I spent lunch working on a crank arm for a beach cruiser I picked up over the weekend.  I'm just trying to remove a pedal.  Nothing fancy.  I spent some time on it yesterday, then after an hour and some change whereby I damaged 2 different combination wrenches (1 Snap-On, 1 Craftsman) and 1 Park Tools pedal wrench.

Today I choise a different strategy

Would the different strategy be 'Oxy Acetelene'?

BFH?
Or maybe let Sonya do it?   

Sonja actually held the JawForce vice while I yoinked on the cheater pipe last night after heating the crank up.  And though I don't own an OxyAcetylne torch or Turbo Torch anymore, the darn thing still resisted OxyMapp + cheater-pipe again today.  I soaked the entire assembly in penetrating fluid over night, plus I double-tapped the crank around the pedal boss with 2 8 pound hammers (do it simultaneously with the hammers 180 degrees apart).  Freaking ridiculous.  I never even had hydraulic valves gall this bad at shore duty and they were exposed to saltwater with gnarly corrosion.

Oh, and technically, I should say 35 years of working at bike shops part time.  Not quite 4 decades. 

Left hand thread?

Yeah, bike pedals are like lawn mower blades. One side turns in so the pedaling action would tighten instead of loosen the threads. The left side is left handed thread. But as Peter stated, they are marked with an R and an L.

[Rabbit\Squirrel Killer]

Alrighty, so I spent lunch working on a crank arm for a beach cruiser I picked up over the weekend.  I'm just trying to remove a pedal.  Nothing fancy.  I spent some time on it yesterday, then after an hour and some change whereby I damaged 2 different combination wrenches (1 Snap-On, 1 Craftsman) and 1 Park Tools pedal wrench.

Today I choise a different strategy

Would the different strategy be 'Oxy Acetelene'?

BFH?
Or maybe let Sonya do it?   

Sonja actually held the JawForce vice while I yoinked on the cheater pipe last night after heating the crank up.  And though I don't own an OxyAcetylne torch or Turbo Torch anymore, the darn thing still resisted OxyMapp + cheater-pipe again today.  I soaked the entire assembly in penetrating fluid over night, plus I double-tapped the crank around the pedal boss with 2 8 pound hammers (do it simultaneously with the hammers 180 degrees apart).  Freaking ridiculous.  I never even had hydraulic valves gall this bad at shore duty and they were exposed to saltwater with gnarly corrosion.

Oh, and technically, I should say 35 years of working at bike shops part time.  Not quite 4 decades. 

Left hand thread?

Yeah, bike pedals are like lawn mower blades. One side turns in so the pedaling action would tighten instead of loosen the threads. The left side is left handed thread. But as Peter stated, they are marked with an R and an L.

  I skipped ahead to make the suggestion, since I never rule out the obvious but sometimes forget or overlook it myself. like reading all the posts before posting! 

[avator]

Ah... I see now.

[Madd Hatter]

Ok, I'm sure you thought of this but.. is it right hand or left hand thread?

oh most certainly.  Left side is left-hand thread, right hand is right... and this is the right pedal.  Lefty-loosey should have made short work of it, and the R was clear as day on the inside end of the pedal.  I say was since all that metal is now drill shavings.

Kinda funny, the left-side pedal was barely finger tight, but it popped loose as soon as I stuck a wrench on it- one handed, no less.

I did shoot a test to a buddy of mine who still works part-time in a shop and he said he's never seen anything gall/bind like that on a crank arm, either.  Usually, you strip out threads even if not crossthreaded when you yoink with a cheater-pipe, but apparently whomever forged the crank arm used some magical aluminum alloy that resists a cheater pipe + heat + penetrating fluid.

Try some dry ice. It will make the crank arm shrink and may cause the stress on the bolt threads to decrease and allow you to turn it. When you were using heat the crank arm will expand causing the threads to bind even more. Another thing that might help is using a hand impact screw driver. Like this 1 that I've used for the last 50 years and never had it not remove a fastener.

[2A Georgia]

Working on something else my old work buddy left for me last week...
 guy at one yard sale gave it to him when he asked about it.... the most abused knife I've ever seen .
 It is a PAL RH 36  Army/Air Corps knife.  WW 2      Rusted and pitted, leather handle completely gone. Found in a barn.
      I have ended up cleaning the rust (white vinegar soak) polishing as best I could with finer grits of sand paper.
 Thinking most knifes now are non-reflective so I cold-blued it. 
In the process of a leather stack handle. It will never be pretty, but it will be a working knife again. something to do.
 

There are some pretty good youTube videos and instructables on DIY electrolysis.  Great job on preserving a WW II artifact!