I completely forgot - yes, mine were originally slotted screws . . . I bought replacement hex heads, and like yours they stuck up too far. I simply ground them down with a bench grinder until they fit, then hit them with some Brownell's Oxpho-Blue so they would look right. They work much better than the slotted screws.
Have you called Jim at Precision about a shroud? He had one a year or so ago....just the shroud no bilita. I gave it to him. May still be on the parts shelf.
Justin, you sure it’s the barrel shroud rattling against the barrel? I know that mine and other Regals front end rattles against the airtube (does not affect accuracy)....I put two pieces of this tape about an inch from the end of the stock...no rattles....hopefully that’s the sound you are hearing! Here’s hoping .
Tweeter, a few things.Superlube will work very well. I often use it on the forward part of the bolt and o ring. I use slide glide or Lithium grease on the bolt itself or the slide glide. (Slide glide is for summer use in things such as the slide to frame lube on 1911's as it is a high wear contact surface). Yu don't want too much lube at all on the bottom of the bolt,as it cocks the hammer, an you want "NO" lube in the hammer tube or the hammer itself. . Newer Daystates have a neat plastic or teflon tube the hammer and spring ride in. wish I could find this material. I would put it into the RainStorm II. Low friction, with out gauliing over high use. ( I shoot on average 2-300 rounds a day at high fpe. Hard on the hammer and tube it rides in). The barrel is not stainless, unless they have changed and kept quiet about it. Daystated says that they use the very top tier L/W match barrels made expressly for them. Un blued, as the bluing process also blues the inside of the barrel, and causes accuracy issues with premium barrels ultra smooth interior surface finish. . TJ's are also not blued but rather chrome moly barrels. Both are left in the white. Oddly enough I got a new TJ's in that is a odd dark grey color. (From OneShot) When I ask Mike Sayers about it, (Owner or TJ's), he said that it was a special order, black chrome finish. I have 5 or six of his barrels, only one has this finish, all the others are standard in the white. (I see that L/W is now offering some stainless barrels, so Daystate may have hanged more recently). Both are supplied in the white, So make sure re-lube them before reinstalling the shroud.80 fpe for shroud torque. Oh "L-NO" that is far too much, even in inch pounds. LOL. That's more than the proper torque on auto lug nuts. Before trying drilling out the set screws, try this, use star bit drivers. They will often grab where an allen key cannot in a rounded fastener. Before turning anti clockwise, to loosen their set, give the handle a sharp tap with a mallet or hammer while putting pressure Clockwise then pressure anti clockwise and hit it again. This will often break the seal. To seat a set screw, tightly, without a huge amount of torque, turn until hand tight, then tap as before and give it a little 1 eights twist clockwise again. You will feel it set solidly like magic and you have a good solid connection, without the fear of stripping. A great thread saver! This works for just about all fasteners. gunsmiths have been using this technique for a very long time. Particularly for mounting scope base rails to rifles. Mike
Stock shroud, holes were in good shape.
Quote from: KnifeMaker on April 08, 2019, 10:40:09 AMTweeter, a few things.Superlube will work very well. I often use it on the forward part of the bolt and o ring. I use slide glide or Lithium grease on the bolt itself or the slide glide. (Slide glide is for summer use in things such as the slide to frame lube on 1911's as it is a high wear contact surface). Yu don't want too much lube at all on the bottom of the bolt,as it cocks the hammer, an you want "NO" lube in the hammer tube or the hammer itself. . Newer Daystates have a neat plastic or teflon tube the hammer and spring ride in. wish I could find this material. I would put it into the RainStorm II. Low friction, with out gauliing over high use. ( I shoot on average 2-300 rounds a day at high fpe. Hard on the hammer and tube it rides in). The barrel is not stainless, unless they have changed and kept quiet about it. Daystated says that they use the very top tier L/W match barrels made expressly for them. Un blued, as the bluing process also blues the inside of the barrel, and causes accuracy issues with premium barrels ultra smooth interior surface finish. . TJ's are also not blued but rather chrome moly barrels. Both are left in the white. Oddly enough I got a new TJ's in that is a odd dark grey color. (From OneShot) When I ask Mike Sayers about it, (Owner or TJ's), he said that it was a special order, black chrome finish. I have 5 or six of his barrels, only one has this finish, all the others are standard in the white. (I see that L/W is now offering some stainless barrels, so Daystate may have hanged more recently). Both are supplied in the white, So make sure re-lube them before reinstalling the shroud.80 fpe for shroud torque. Oh "L-NO" that is far too much, even in inch pounds. LOL. That's more than the proper torque on auto lug nuts. Before trying drilling out the set screws, try this, use star bit drivers. They will often grab where an allen key cannot in a rounded fastener. Before turning anti clockwise, to loosen their set, give the handle a sharp tap with a mallet or hammer while putting pressure Clockwise then pressure anti clockwise and hit it again. This will often break the seal. To seat a set screw, tightly, without a huge amount of torque, turn until hand tight, then tap as before and give it a little 1 eights twist clockwise again. You will feel it set solidly like magic and you have a good solid connection, without the fear of stripping. A great thread saver! This works for just about all fasteners. gunsmiths have been using this technique for a very long time. Particularly for mounting scope base rails to rifles. MikeThanks Knife, I haven't used the superlube that I have because I'm not sure if it is the regular superlube synthetic grease or the superlube o ring silicone grease. Any way to tell the difference? I got it a long time ago that came with an o ring kit and it's a small container that has superlube hand written on it. I just splashed some ballistol on it for now until I get something better.I was reading I think one of nitrocrusher's threads on his daystate and him and Quigly mentioned that the daystate barrels were stainless, that's the reason I thought they were.80 ft lbs is too much for the shroud screws? Somebody should have let the last guy know I've never had a problem tightening any screws, but I appreciate the advice. Thanks man!
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