Daystate Regal XL questions

[Tweeter]

I've got a bunch of questions so I'll list them out.  I bought a used HRXL and it has a few things I want to address/fix.

Any help you guys can give is greatly appreciated!

1) Does anyone know where to buy a replacement shroud (the tube not the ldc, I'm going to use a donnyFl)?  It appears that the wrong screws were used at some point and the threads are quite buggered up.  If they aren't too much I'd like to just replace it and be done with it instead of drilling and re-tapping the holes.

2) Are there supposed to be two o rings inside the shroud between the barrel "tuning fork" and the shroud end cap?  Mine had these o rings there but they just don't look like they belong.

3) Can you remove the action/barrel without degassing?

4) My barrel is slanting downward so the shroud is pushing against the bottom of the barrel band.  Is there an easy way to remedy this?  The gun is still accurate (or seems to be), my first 5 shot group with it at 45 yards must measure about .5" (I didn't walk up and measure it but all shots were touching).

5) What do you guys lube the bolt itself with?  My bolt has some type of thick black grease on it and since the bolt gets pulled all the way into the action when cocking the gun, that grease gets onto the bolt o ring and pushed into the barrel.  I'd like to take it apart and clean that grease out and re-lube with something more barrel friendly.  Leads me to my last question (for now ).

6) Are there any write-ups/ videos on how to strip the action and remove the cocking bolt?  I have seen plenty on how to take the action off the airtube but none on removing the bolt itself from the action.

It is a used gun and shows some signs of use but I got it for what I think was a good deal so i don't mind tinkering with it.  Also if I add another scratch or two then I won't have to cry myself to sleep

[RDB]

Its been quite a while sense i had mine apart but I'll do my best.

1. Not that im aware of. Give Jim at Precision airguns a call, he may have one laying around or be able to help.

2. Yes, but can't remember if there were two or just one. I know they look over sized....but they put tension the barrel.

3.yes

4.to a degree.there are set screws on the bottom of the action for the barrel. Tighten the front bottom screws and the top rear first. It should tip the barrel up a bit for you. I run without a band, has proven to be more accurate for my rifle.

5. Silicone grease is what ive used. 004 urethane o rings for the probe. They last much longer.

6 not that i could find. But its very simple. Once you flip the action over and take a look at it you'll see. Just one spring to keep an eye on.

[robertr]

 Nitrocrushr has a thread on problem #4.
https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=125728.msg1230330#msg1230330

[Tweeter]

Thanks RDB that helps a lot!  Robert thanks for the link I will check that out.

Two more questions   What size o ring for the foster fill dust cover?  The one in it was banged up so I replaced it with what looked to be the same exact size -115 and it ripped on the sharp corners of the foster fill the first time I put the cap back on

I found a list of daystate o rings on AGN forum and it says BS-113 so I found the closest SAE o ring I had and it is too small (ID and OD) so this size must have been used on the older daystates.

Does the barrel just pull right out once the set screws are removed?

[D-RIG]

The barrel has 2 sets of screws 2 on the top and 2 on the bottom ,
 the 6 screws must be removed to get to the two bottom screws
make sure to pull the transfer port before pulling on the barrel .

[RDB]

Im not sure on that oring Justin. Yes...it will slide right out once the transfer port is out of the way.

[Tweeter]

From looking at pictures of the shroud set screws online it looks like my shroud has already been drilled and tapped (horribly) for new larger screws lol.  If you can't remove a screw and then put it back without ruining something then MAYBE you shouldn't be taking screws out of your gun right?  But don't worry if you mess your gun up all is not lost, you can always sell it right here in the good old classifieds section! 

[ranchibi]

https://www.airgunnation.com/topic/daystate-huntsman-regal-xl-leaking-air-i-fixed-it-and-now-im-happy/


He took his Regal apart in this thread...don’t know if it will help!

[KnifeMaker]

I went over an took a look at it. That is one Well written and documented post!

[AlanMcD]

I have an Air Ranger, but there is a lot of commonality between the two.  Good advice so far, but I cleaned out the grease on mine as you want to and re-lubed it with GPL 204 Krytox and it is as smooth as can be. I highly recommend it - a much better lube for metal to metal contact than silicone grease, but works great on the o-ring too.

If yours is like mine, be prepared for a mix of English and Metric hex head fasteners on the gun - my breech has three pairs of different hex head fasteners securing it to the action, and IIRC the long front ones are metric and the others are English, and all three pairs are different drive sizes.  The thing is built beautifully, but that is just nuts . . .

[Tweeter]

Oh yeah I've got the right tools for the job, thanks for the heads up!

Does anyone know the torque specs for the shroud set screws?  I think I'll start with 80ft lbs and if that's not enough I'll work my way up until something breaks.   

[RDB]

Oh yeah I've got the right tools for the job, thanks for the heads up!

Does anyone know the torque specs for the shroud set screws?  I think I'll start with 80ft lbs and if that's not enough I'll work my way up until something breaks.   

Be sure to put it in a vice, and would probably recommend a cheater bar for the allen wrench for anything over 50 ftlbs.

[Tweeter]

Oh yeah I've got the right tools for the job, thanks for the heads up!

Does anyone know the torque specs for the shroud set screws?  I think I'll start with 80ft lbs and if that's not enough I'll work my way up until something breaks.   

Be sure to put it in a vice, and would probably recommend a cheater bar for the allen wrench for anything over 50 ftlbs.

Good advice right there, notes taken. 

[Tweeter]

The joys of buying a used gun:

[Tweeter]

I have to say this thing is as easy as any other airgun to completely strip apart.  If you can take down a discovery or marauder then you can strip a daystate or most other airgun for that matter.  I've found that they all pretty much use the same basic design though some might be sidelever actions.

Another thing I noticed was the quality.  Right up there with any other high end gun and everything is chunky feeling and solid.  The barrel is a beauty, the only one that I have seen as nice as this was the TJ barrel on my warp.  Probably because they are both stainless and the machining is perfect with no sharp edges unlike a lot of other barrels (like Air Arms and FX).

One of the transfer port o rings was torn so I'm glad I took it apart.  I cleaned all the old grease out but am still wondering what to grease it with for now.  I went to the only gun store nearby but they dont carry Krytox.  All they had was the usual Rem oil, CLP and Hoppes.  I will order one of those small tubes of krytox online to use the next time I take it down but for now do you think superlube grease will work?  Pretty sure it is an all synthetic grease with no silicone in it but I can't find any info where people use it on their gun bolts?

That's all I have on hand besides, ballistol, FP-10, moly paste (yuck) and mac-1 secret sauce.  Ballistol or Superlube it is, which would you guys choose?  Either one would prob. be better than the axle/bearing grease that was in there lol.  Is that how they come from daystate?

[Tweeter]

I have an Air Ranger, but there is a lot of commonality between the two.  Good advice so far, but I cleaned out the grease on mine as you want to and re-lubed it with GPL 204 Krytox and it is as smooth as can be. I highly recommend it - a much better lube for metal to metal contact than silicone grease, but works great on the o-ring too.

If yours is like mine, be prepared for a mix of English and Metric hex head fasteners on the gun - my breech has three pairs of different hex head fasteners securing it to the action, and IIRC the long front ones are metric and the others are English, and all three pairs are different drive sizes.  The thing is built beautifully, but that is just nuts . . .

Are the middle pair of breech screws in your Regal hex head?  Mine are slotted flat head screws, M3x12.  I picked up some stainless M3x12 hex head screws but the tapered section underneath the head of the screw is just a bit too thick so when installed in the breech the stick up maybe .5mm and they need to be flush obviously.  Wondering if you changed yours out, where you got the replacements or does daystate use hex head screws there now? 

[D-RIG]

I would go with the Superlube it's good stuff and it's used by lots of people .
The shroud I would try to tap out again the thing about Daystate is
that they locktight all the fasteners and the 2 grub screws on the shroud
are known for blowing out the threads in the aluminum when you first take
it apart .

[Tweeter]

I would go with the Superlube it's good stuff and it's used by lots of people .
The shroud I would try to tap out again the thing about Daystate is
that they locktight all the fasteners and the 2 grub screws on the shroud
are known for blowing out the threads in the aluminum when you first take
it apart .

Ah really I hadn't heard about that so maybe it wasn't the guys fault (whoever did it).  I will try the superlube too, I don't really care what I use as long as it works ok.  Thanks D-rig.

Holy smokes, if anyone knows about daystate it's you haha!  Just noticed your signature.   

[RDB]

The middle ones under the mag are slotted screws in mine.  Mine also had thick grease on the spring and mag indexer. All in all looks like you got a decent one. Mine likes jsb 16's and 18's equally. Will even shoot off the shelf crosmans well. But the harder lead pellets will lead the choke up in short order requiring a good scrubbing with a brass brush to remove the lead.

[AlanMcD]

I completely forgot - yes, mine were originally slotted screws . . .

I bought replacement hex heads, and like yours they stuck up too far.  I simply ground them down with a bench grinder until they fit, then hit them with some Brownell's Oxpho-Blue so they would look right.  They work much better than the slotted screws.