Talk to me about a 2040

[Insanity]

Oh boy I was waiting to see you get the bits and bobs in and start the build.

[Hoosier Daddy]

Thanks for the interest Matt.
I have been to Carey. Worked for the Budd Co.
You ever been to Jaquay's in Findlay?

[Insanity]

Thanks for the interest Matt.
I have been to Carey. Worked for the Budd Co.
You ever been to Jaquay's in Findlay?

I have not been there and frankly didn't know it existed. Unless I was working in Findlay I spend as little time there as possible. Also the majority of my adult life I was in the army and lived out of state. Budd is now CSP btw.

[Hoosier Daddy]

Well, this has been a long time recap but I have been working on the stock.
 As mentioned I had a old broken, glued and pined 392P stock settin around.
After looking at all the "Plastic" stuff available, I still wanted to go the old wood "classic" version for this. So this seemed a perfect donor for this build.
But a major bit of repair was in order...

[Hoosier Daddy]

So now it is fitted "bedded " if you will to the 2260 /Disco trigger assembly with the 2260 lower tube.
I have a "rattle can" of satin brown, and Stone Brown for where the stippling would be, an a can of Matte clear for the top coat.

[Hoosier Daddy]

Well, a little (5 coats) of satin Brown and here is where I am today.
Next comes the Disco breech. I have a stock .177 probe, I have read a fatter seal that works with a .20. When I get the breech I can see what needs to be done to push the .20 past the T.P.

Then comes the stuffings. Do I go exotic or off the shelf?
Fluted hammer, Boss (RP) valve, Increased TP size.
Bulk fill from the Get-go or start with Carts....
The barrel looks "stubby" in the pic, but I had the barrel band on it but not on the tube... AND I have a Rocker1 moderator to add about 5" to the length yet.

[Hoosier Daddy]

Here is the deal... I have learned that Power does not equate to Accuracy.
What I am leery of is a combination of Boutique parts that will not be conductive to an accurate airgun. Worse yet, fight each other and lead to a gun that is a mutation and wont hit consistently and give me fits trying to figure out why.
FPE is nice but if the pellet doesn't go where I point it, what's the use?
I find it hard to believe I am treading new ground on a .20 that is based on current Crosman 22XX parts. Stock or upgrade. ANY input on tried and true custom parts that work is welcome.
 Since this is a build consisting so far of bit's I already have... my budget is open so far, money ahead.
 That said, "Let's Play Ball"

[Hoosier Daddy]

So tonight was a good night for spray bomb... sorta cold (54) but low humidity.
I had already masked off the "contact" points and applied the 3 light coats of Stone Rustoleum textured paint where the gripping was important.
 Tonight I gave it 3 coats of Matte Clear on top of the entire stock...
Oh yes, this will work for now.

[fivestar45]

Here is the deal... I have learned that Power does not equate to Accuracy.
What I am leery of is a combination of Boutique parts that will not be conductive to an accurate airgun. Worse yet, fight each other and lead to a gun that is a mutation and wont hit consistently and give me fits trying to figure out why.
FPE is nice but if the pellet doesn't go where I point it, what's the use?
I find it hard to believe I am treading new ground on a .20 that is based on current Crosman 22XX parts. Stock or upgrade. ANY input on tried and true custom parts that work is welcome.
 Since this is a build consisting so far of bit's I already have... my budget is open so far, money ahead.
 That said, "Let's Play Ball"



I've built a couple of variants of just what you are building. I would urge you to go with bulk fill from the get go.
With a lightened striker, standard volume Disco valve, .156" T/P you should get to the high 680's with JSB's in 70+ deg weather.

[Hoosier Daddy]

I've built a couple of variants of just what you are building. I would urge you to go with bulk fill from the get go.
With a lightened striker, standard volume Disco valve, .156" T/P you should get to the high 680's with JSB's in 70+ deg weather.

Thank you for that!

So would a fluted hammer be what you are calling a "Lightened Striker" or a lighter tension hammer spring?
Would there be any benefit to a "Boss RP" valve fitted with a "Boss" inlet for bulk fill?
Or would I just be wasting Co2?



I have been thinking the stock valve with the Bulk fill kit from Baker...

[Yng@hrt]

So tonight was a good night for spray bomb... sorta cold (54) but low humidity.
I had already masked off the "contact" points and applied the 3 light coats of Stone Rustoleum textured paint where the gripping was important.
 Tonight I gave it 3 coats of Matte Clear on top of the entire stock...
Oh yes, this will work for now.

You're definitely thinking outside the box. Very cool with the slick/selective textured. Luv it!

[Hoosier Daddy]

Thank you Marty. Coming from a wood-smith such as yourself it means a lot.
Really pains me to paint wood, but this one was so badly broken, I thought it was worth a shot.

[fivestar45]

I've built a couple of variants of just what you are building. I would urge you to go with bulk fill from the get go.
With a lightened striker, standard volume Disco valve, .156" T/P you should get to the high 680's with JSB's in 70+ deg weather.

Thank you for that!

So would a fluted hammer be what you are calling a "Lightened Striker" or a lighter tension hammer spring?
Would there be any benefit to a "Boss RP" valve fitted with a "Boss" inlet for bulk fill?
Or would I just be wasting Co2?



I have been thinking the stock valve with the Bulk fill kit from Baker...

I found the standard Disco valve supplied enough fuel. I basically bored out the center of a P'rod striker  and made a delrin insert to bring the I D to the OEM spec's. Anyway you choose to reduce the striker weight will be fine. Don't bulk it without adding the extra valve anchor screws regardless of which valve you use. I also like the P'rod fill plug..it has a Foster and nice cap, also it's aluminum so it's nice and light.
This is the last version og that .20 that I did. Next stop for it will be a 2024 alum tube like it's big brother.
 https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=148199.msg1509676#msg1509676

[Hoosier Daddy]

Thanks for sharing a link to your build... VERY NICE!

[Hoosier Daddy]

Beat Feet home after work and made my next order from Crosman. Thought I should continue with the bare necessities I have planned while I contemplate the internals.

Disco steel Breech     1761-019   $29.70
Disco Breech plug   AS2250-020    $2.00
Sleeve (T.P.)            1322A026     $1.15
Face Seal (T.P.)           130-036    $1.15
Screw, Breech           1322B027    $1.15
Screw, Trigger            130B031    $1.15

[Hoosier Daddy]

While waiting on the delivery of the next batch of parts I did some searching on removing blueing. I found Naval Jelly suggested and sure enough it did the trick.
Quick and easy.

[jimbo]

When you remove the bluing don't you have to worry about rust or is there some other coating that you put on it then?

[Hoosier Daddy]

Yep, I have been researching it and most who have done it just keep their metal oiled as we do with normal "blued" gun care.
 Having stripped an polished a lot of metals on motorcycles. I have had no problems with a coat of quality Carnuba wax first.

[jimbo]

I kinda like the looks of those (polished?) looking guns, is that what you do to get them that way? And then what do you do before you wax them up, steel wool them?

[Hoosier Daddy]

After stripping the blueing, I started the surface prep with green Scotch-bright pad, then moved to 1200g wet / dry sandpaper. That is where I left off for now. Oiled everything down until the breech arrives this week.
 I am thinking once I strip it and the barrel band, I see how it turns out, I may just stop there.
It would be much easier to maintain a brushed finish. I have wet / dry sandpaper down to 1800g, and  followed by 4 ought (0000) steel wool will give a near polished look.
 On the other hand, I do have a Harbor Freight buffer and a whole slew of various compounds if I decide to jump in "whole hog" and put a mirror finish on it all.