Any US importers carrying this gun?

[stretch]

Crosman Trail sound suppressor baffle in my Liberty: I removed mine and went with an Moderator.
It did reduce the db but the most notable change is it eliminated the "high pitch crack noise" that it had.
Much quieter than the Marauder. Forgot the db difference but very noticeable in basement and outside.

Hey Matt, did you modify your inflation fitting somehow?  If so, can you share any details?

[cosmic]

Looks like he left the probe in and put a protective cap on it..

[USAFANG6799]

Hey Matt, did you modify your inflation fitting somehow?  If so, can you share any details?

I left the probe in and put rubber cap/plug on it to for CYA.
Got tired of replacing orings. That was my main motivation.
I'm want to find something that I can slip over the barrel to hold the fill probe in place so I don't lose it.

Looks like he left the probe in and put a protective cap on it.

Yep that's exactly what I did.

[stretch]

Hey Matt, did you modify your inflation fitting somehow?  If so, can you share any details?

I left the probe in and put rubber cap/plug on it to for CYA.
Got tired of replacing orings. That was my main motivation.
I'm want to find something that I can slip over the barrel to hold the fill probe in place so I don't lose it.

Looks like he left the probe in and put a protective cap on it.

Yep that's exactly what I did.

I'm not a fan of those probes either.  I wonder if you could use a slightly thicker, firmer o-ring so the probe is less likely to come out? 

[superchikn]

Ok, here's the latest...  I removed the barrel again and crowned it using a dremel, round ball bit and then the brass screw with valve grinding compound.  Then I re-dressed the TP hole in the barrel that I previously drilled out to 3/16".  I may have had a burr in there.  First off, this rifle absolutely HATES JSB heavies 18gr.  They are still shooting 8 to 10 inch patterns.  I also tried some CPHP and they are hitting the target completely sideways, and all over the place.  I've adjusted the reg 1/2 turn ccw and shimmed the hammer +.1 inch.

HOWEVER, I next tried the H&N Barracuda Match 21 grain and they shot pretty decent.  the attached pic shows a 6 shot group at 52 yards.. along with my thumb.  I now need to chrony it and see where the power is.  I also noticed that if I DO or DONT let the reg "settle" by waiting a while between shots, the POI changes..vertically about 1 to 2 inches.   The rifle is also somewhat hold sensitive.  I think that I'm gonna take the barrel off one more time and push some pellets through it to see what I get.  Then maybe I will use some valve grinding compound and shave down the 'step' in the barrel at the breech, and then maybe "LAP" the barrel.... although I've never done that... so I'll have to do some more homework on exactly how that is done.  But, for now, it's better than it was, but still no where near the accuracy of the Gauntlet.    Cheers

Hey Mike,  Do you leave the shroud screw at the rear of the shroud out or do you install it?I know that some leave it out and I was doing that too but after reading the string below I reinstalled mine and suddenly eight or so pellets are stacking up. 

While I had the shroud off I had the barrel out both barrel blocks and all three barrel o rings off.  I was checking barrel to tank alignment and I have some convergence but I don't think its a lot.  I left the two front barrel screws roughly finger tight to reduce downward pressure on the barrel but I don't think that was the fix.  Everything reinstalled the way it was.

https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=155714.new#new

I believe many of us were leaving that screw out and obviously it does not affect every gun the same but if anyone is having accuracy issues try putting the screw back in, if it is out or some of the suggestions in the above thread.

[USAFANG6799]

I'm not a fan of those probes either.  I wonder if you could use a slightly thicker, firmer o-ring so the probe is less likely to come out?

I tried that but was too big. Might be because my next size up was too large. I've bought more orings now so might try it again one day.
Right now I'm distracted. In the middle of replacing all orings in Discovery. Benjamin Chief is next.

Here is what I'm now using to keep the fill probe in place. Couple of orings and a tie wrap. Will see how it works out. Initial use is it's functional.

[USAFANG6799]

I believe many of us were leaving that screw out and obviously it does not affect every gun the same but if anyone is having accuracy issues try putting the screw back in, if it is out or some of the suggestions in the above thread.

My three screws are all in with it not effecting accuracy yet....... but will keep that in mind.
One thing I noticed was when I took mine apart the first time I was having some issues with reassembly. By chance I tried installing that last screw first then the remaining ones and solved that reassembly issue. Might have been something I was doing wrong to.
It hasn't been apart since. Too busy enjoying it.

[tracker1955]

One thing I've noticed about the Liberty is the barrels are quite tight, have found my accuracy falling off as of late, suspect my barrel needs to be cleaned again. I know the MM hammer forged barrels for the Marauders are quite tight also and need to be cleaned about every 100 rounds or so to stay accurate. This has prompted three questions now for me. (1)  How often are other owners needing to clean their barrels? (2) Is anyone using lubed pellets? I know MM recommends the use of FP10 and soft lead pellets shot out of their barrels. (3) How are you cleaning your barrels? without the NP2 baffles in mine and using a straw as a guide I find it difficult to get my pull through fed into the barrel to pull cleaning patches. Looking for a new cleaning method on this one, I may have to go back to using stiff weed wacker line as a pull through again. Any suggestions or opinions?

[USAFANG6799]

I may have to go back to using stiff weed wacker line as a pull through again. Any suggestions or opinions?

The weed wacker line is all that I'm using now on all my PCP's and break barrels. So I don't mind.
Yep the soda straw is a must with getting past the baffles.

I do notice that using softer pellets(JSB's) does make the barrel dirtier which requires more frequent cleaning. I notice this on all my air rifles
not just the Liberty. So I tend to stick with H&N.
The only time I use JSB's are the Monsters 25 grain. It will be for bird feed raiders. The knock-down power has no equal.
I reserve the Monsters for my Marauder because it's the one that's tuned for them.

I use FP10 on the JSB Monsters. As to if it makes a difference in keeping the barrel cleaner. I'm not sure because the Marauder is dedicated to using the Monsters.
It doesn't get shot that often except to see if it's still on target.

The three pellets that my Liberty likes are the H&N Hornet(shoots the best), Predator Polymags and H&N Terminators. I think that this has mostly to do with the 16 grain pellet weight.

[Hawkeye51]

I'm also using a pull through for cleaning, no problems yet. I did polish the barrel with a very fine diamond paste and a cleaning mop. Also treated the barrel with Prolong "anti friction" oil additive. Not saying I am totally sold on the whole molecular bonding and filling theory, but it can't hurt. We'll see. Not using lubed pellets, but I do favor the harder ones.

[RDB]

 If accuracy starts to fall off or not shooting like it used to,  Don't be afraid to hit it with a brass brush. Especially a tight barrel and harder alloy pellets. Ive run a pull through until the patches were clean, 4 swipes with a brush and the next patch was covered in little sparkling lead flakes. Ive found that harder alloy pellets in a tight or choked barrel need a little more attention co.e cleaning time. YMMV

[Letum]

Good morning all.

Some assistance needed please.

I drilled my barrel's transfer port (I think that's what it's called) to 4.8mm (closest drill bit I could find in SA to 3/16). It actually seems as if my rifle's power dropped a bit. Any idea of what I could have done wrong?

[darkcharisma]

Good morning all.

Some assistance needed please.

I drilled my barrel's transfer port (I think that's what it's called) to 4.8mm (closest drill bit I could find in SA to 3/16). It actually seems as if my rifle's power dropped a bit. Any idea of what I could have done wrong?

what was your before speed and the now speed in fps?

[Letum]

Good morning all.

Some assistance needed please.

I drilled my barrel's transfer port (I think that's what it's called) to 4.8mm (closest drill bit I could find in SA to 3/16). It actually seems as if my rifle's power dropped a bit. Any idea of what I could have done wrong?

what was your before speed and the now speed in fps?

When I calculated the new speed with 21.14 H&N's was the same as the 25.39 Monster's. However this morning it's running all over the place. Think my reg may need some adjustment. Will get a chroni and revert.

[RDB]

Well....I went and did it. Brown truck showed up today with a 22 cal. Fired a few shots and proceeded to tear it down scrub the barrel and do what everyone else has. Swap trigger screws, open up the barrel port and such. Run a few over the chrony before and after. Went from averaging 935 to 960 with crosmans after opening it up. There were 3 washers under the spring. While i had it apart I printed up a proper air stripper and got rid of that barrel/ shroud support slug. Will be able to use the whole shroud volume now. Oh...probe orings were crispy, tried to take one off and it broke. Really dry. Had some 004 70 urethane from my huntsman. Slid one on and left the original one behind it. Sealed up nice and tight. Ripped the other one off and put two on. Still fit nice and tight but the rear ring extruded ever so slightly. Wouldn't be a problem i dont think. Had some 004 90 cast urethane. That was the ticket and should last a good long while. Only thing I could complain about at the moment, would be how far you have to reef the cocking lever back before it catches the hammer. Im going to have to dig a little deeper and see what can be done. So far...pretty darn happy.

[USAFANG6799]

Only thing I could complain about at the moment, would be how far you have to reef the cocking lever back before it catches the hammer.

Noticed the same issue with mine along with trigger needing some massaging to lighten it up. It breaks crisp ok but it's a bit heavy.

[tracker1955]

Well, I solved my cleaning issue, bought a Hoppes bore snake and cropped the brass weight enough to feed it through from the breach end, just have to remove the end cap so I can grab the line. I also removed the internal brass brush except about a 1/2" piece so it would clear the opening. After several passes with some Rem oil it's back to grouping like before, one ragged hole at 30 yards zero. I also ordered some Napier spray lube from Amazon to try on my pellets to test for accuracy with it and also if I can go longer between needed cleanings. I thought about buying the FP10 but the Napier spray had good reviews and thought it might be a little easier to apply, time will tell.

[darkcharisma]

It looks like I am going to enlarge the transfer port to 6mm and that means my current .217 power wheel  will not be used. It is made from o1 hardened. If anyone wants a spare power wheel pm me.

Which means after this I am finally going to make a plenum large enough to support .25 caliber...hopefully going to get 60fpe. I finally have a 1-1/2 round bar in 7075 t6 and also 1144 bar. Just needs turning to size. I am back at the Liberty project 

[RDB]

It looks like I am going to enlarge the transfer port to 6mm and that means my current .217 power wheel  will not be used. It is made from o1 hardened. If anyone wants a spare power wheel pm me.

Which means after this I am finally going to make a plenum large enough to support .25 caliber...hopefully going to get 60fpe. I finally have a 1-1/2 round bar in 7075 t6 and also 1144 bar. Just needs turning to size. I am back at the Liberty project 

What do you think about hammer strike? Think there will be enough when you bump it up? I was inside mine today and the hammer is kind of light.  Id like to get it out of there and check it out, but think you'd have to get that little Phillips screw out of the cocking linkage to get it out of there . Have no idea how to get it out.  Looks very similar to the fx wildcat hammer where a weight with spring guide could be added in the hammer pocket. Would even be good on a slightly modded one. Little more hammer weight with lighter spring and less cocking force. Maybe even a little free flight.

[darkcharisma]

You don't need to touch the Philip screw. Once you have the hammer spring block out. There is a screw that holds the lever arm to the top. Undo that one through the stock screw hole from underneath, then pull the screw down...there is another screw that holds the lever block on the side. Undo that one and the hammer should fall free.

Yes it is a very light hammer, you can add a short rod in there and at the same time increase hammer tension that way. It is almost In a free flight mode if you can anchor the spring to the spring block. I think that's one way to do it