.25 cal 34-38 gr. Pellet Mould at NOE - In the Store

[KnifeMaker]

Bore   .249
lands  . 250




As Cast,
Head .2510
Skirt .2595

[rsterne]

Those pellet dimensions are virtually identical with the JSB 34 gr. King Heavy Mk.IIs I have here....

Bob

[KnifeMaker]

Yes they are Bob. Almost identical. I measured both a few hours ago. My Mistake Sir!


I just cast again with the lighter weight, and finally, most of them came out really nice! 


Tried to get my pot up to temp, and would hit almost 800F for a few minutes, and would then drop down to apx 750. GRRR.


At just under 800F,it starts filling out the skirts perfectly!


Wish I was a bit electally, capable. 


Knife

[KnifeMaker]

Third casting session with the 36.8 Gr NOE's resulted in a 7 shot group of .8650" at the 36 yard target. Not ultra good, but much better than the 4-5" from the first session with the pellet.


Seems as the mold breaks in, it is getting better in leaps and bounds!


Knife

[Wayne52]

I'm thinking about buying one of the lazer thermometer's on the market, I haven't even checked the prices on them, I might even buy one of the internal mold thermometer's from NOE as well.  Michael you were talking earlier in this thread about in a sense injecting the lead with one of the casters that had a nozzle on it that would work for this, I'm curious about what make and model that you were talking about, I think it's about time that I bought a new one.  After all the one that I have I bought in the Mid 70's and has probably been discontinued for quite some time.

                                                                           

[K.O.]

1.5"  five shots at about 35 yards out of my Mrod despite some problems... only did 7 shots would have done more testing but  the main problem caused another problem...

Did not crony but I bet I had a large es because I think the problem caused the group to string vertically... the prob I should have seen beforehand is in the design... the deep skirt... with the Mrod Bolt it does not seat the round deep enough... the base of the skirt sits just in front of the oring... yep that means the pellet sits right on top of the transfer port... that alone could cause fps variations and maybe skirt damage...

But also it blew the transfer port seal causing problem two... a leaking t-port seal  which got worse and  blew badly on shot 6... again it is a prob I could have helped maybe... I bet I put the seal back in (after the Leade work) upside down... you say there is no upside down... I say they take a set creating one...

so yep got home and a simple seating tool to seat the pellets past the port should help... that will have to wait to test... need to order a t-port seal...

Also my mold seems to be dropping just a hair small but I probably let it run a bit hotter than needed... only one slightly frosted pellet tho...

So yep right now I think Wayne could test my theory about the 34g just using an Allen wrench to seat the pellet deeper...

and it may even be a part of the problem Knife is having...

I also sent one of the not perfect pellets with the barely visible lip from a to loose pin... and yep it caused shot 7 to be a flyer...

If I feel well enough I will be working with my mold oven(has a BBQ thermometer) to establish a minimun mold temp needed... I feel mine are dropping just a touch to loose... head is just  a half a hair under bore... my other .25 mrod right at bore...  I am one of those that feels just a half hair  larger than bore is best...so I do not need mine to drop mcuh larger... for the Mrod barrels but for a XL 725 barrel I think it needs to drop about .0003 or so larger...

low shot is the blown t-port on shot six... way left is the slightly imperfect skirt base...

so yeah guys check where your 34g seat...

[K.O.]

should have seen the seating depth prob ahead of time... I use a seating tool on all me 13xx build for just that reason... sometime I jes is not on me game...

they still make them Wayne.

[KnifeMaker]

Wayne, I am using a RCBS lead furnace. Very nice unit. Used Lee's first. Both a dipper and bottom pour.


the lee bottom pour was a bad leaker. Only use it from time to time to pre melt now. Had to drill and screw a 2 lb weight to the lee's handle. I cam in one day after letting it warm up, and all the lead was all over my bench. They are famous for it! GRRRRR


If you can catch the CBS on sale, they have some of the best equipment, and customer service out there.


Check out Cast Boolits,com. Yep they spell it that way! LOLO!!!


Loads of info on casting different mixtures and sizes, and a fine thread on the different ovens . RCBS is highly praised there.


Knife

[KnifeMaker]

Kirby, mm BNM breach, (which is a copy of the Crosman Marauder breach). on my Maximus, has exactly that problem. No matter what pellet is in it.


I removed the end of the probe, drilled, and put in drill rod just as far out as I could and still clear the inserted Mag.  Worked wonders!


The Rainstorm seats the pellet well forward of the port. No issues there.

[/size]As far as frosted bullet go,it the cusp of either good or bad bullets. Pellets are probably the same. A little frosting never hurt a bullet or a cake for that matter! LOL!!![size=78%]

[/size]Looks odd, but almost guarantees full fill out if poured just at the start of the frosting temp.[size=78%]


[/size]Kinda lets you know that you have arrived. BUT---go no further. [size=78%] [/size]
[/size]
[/size]Knife

[KnifeMaker]

I have no idea what that text and 78% above is all about. Started it yesterday. GRRRRR!!


Knife

[K.O.]

I agree Knife about the frosting it lets you know you are running the mold hot... but if you are trying to get your pellets to drop a bit larger then you want to run the mold and mix at the min temp that you can get good fill out with.

I think a mold that is run  cooler might last longer also...

Brass has a slightly lower expansion coeficient than aluminum if Irc... 

looked it up...

https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/linear-expansion-coefficients-d_95.html

lead is a decent bit higher at 29

so yeah  I need to use my mold oven to see just how cool I can run my mold and pour... because the brass cools slower I should be able to runn it just a bit cooler than an aluminum mold... that was my theory anyways... now of course the effect is smaller with these small cavities...

Here is a thread by Al on the NOE forum for those that might be interested

http://noebulletmolds.com/smf/index.php?topic=82.0 

oh my mrod is zeroed for 32 yards and 25g JSB Kings...

[KnifeMaker]

No doubt, you are exactly right Kirby. Never had to worry about smaller sizes before.


Right now, I'm getting the best fill out at 790F. Far above where I cast bullets .


Hopefully, as the mold continues to improve its breakin, I will be able to lower the melt temp. 


Knife

[KnifeMaker]

Ah! Got you Wayne. Non braced shots. I sure don't shoot as well as I use to off hand. Even leaned against a tree. Use to be a crack shot. Days long gone. [/size]Just looking for comparisons. So little posted. Even on the .30's a while back. Virtually nothing. The mole continues to improve. At 36 yards, yesterday, (third casting with this pellet) the 36.8 gr shot .8650"  Not JSB good yet, but ?Very" encouraging! Knife

[KnifeMaker]

Ah! Got you Wayne. Non braced shots. I sure don't shoot as well as I use to off hand. Even leaned against a tree. Use to be a crack shot. Days long gone. [/size]Just looking for comparisons. So little posted. Even on the .30's a while back. Virtually nothing. The mole continues to improve. At 36 yards, yesterday, (third casting with this pellet) the 36.8 gr shot .8650"  Not JSB good yet, but ?Very" encouraging! Knife

[KnifeMaker]

What the Happened to the post above?


Wayne, sorry, I miss read your post on NOE. Not meaning to run you down I use to be a crack shot offhand. Man, those days are very far over. LOL!


Just looking for groups. Any groups to let me kinda know where I am in this.


Not eve much in the way of .30 groups out there, although the molds have been around for quite a while now. 


Knife

[Wayne52]

Michael I shot a clip at a 4x4 at 60 yards from that same fencepost this morning, you can see I clipped the upper right hand corner with one of them.  I had the crosshairs right at the top middle of the 4x4 and I had also tweeked my scope up a little.  Once I get the gun done maybe it will do a little better.  I think the way it is now it's just not enough power to sling them out there like I'd like.  There's no doubt the JSB's will out do it though, especially right now but time will tell.  I got my tracking number for the brass mold today too

                                                                           

[KnifeMaker]

Wayne. I checked my mold todayl, and there are a few tiny burs that are probably causing the skirt issues.


I'm heading out the shop to try and polish them out. Gotta be very very careful!


Never tried Brass. Would like to though.


Knife

[K.O.]

I wonder what Al would recommend.... I knocked down a few burrs on my lee Bator and the new 225-55rf just used a wood dowel...

I did not use an extended probe for my 13xxs cause  the extra step did not bother me... all were opened up valves to what I thought I could get for cc/ci... so did not want any extra obstacle in the way of flow... so made a  plastic seating tool... on my 14" barreled 2289 clone I went another direction and made the leade  so that I pointed down gave a tap and the pellet was seated just past the t-port...

 

[KnifeMaker]

I spoke to Swede (Al), and he liked my procedure.


I removed all burs today. Some caused by the pellet pins breaking in and seating to the mold. 


Once complete, I polished each cavity\ using medical cotton swab tips, loaded with polish. Sadly, is was out of flitx. My go to polish for such things.


Not fully morrow polishes as I would have gotten from Flitz, but close enough as the pellets were dropping clean, with no skirt issues what so ever.


Once again, ran test at 36 yards. Groups were all much tighter than last test.


Using 1' target dots, all pellets went inside the dots. A far cry for first cast that I couldn't hit the dots at all , with up to 5-6" Groups.


Did have one odd target. First 5 in dot, then 4 2" right, in a good cluster, then the last two in the dot again. Odd, no Idea why such a good cluster, off target, for four in a row. 


So far, getting better still!


Knife

[/size][size=78%]    [/size]

[Wayne52]

Semichrome is a good polish too, I used it a lot with cast aluminum parts on motorcycles. I've used Flitz before as well and I think it's a little less abrasive than the Semichrome is so it would make a finer polish.

I remember back when Flitz was a hot item at a motorcycle swapmeet, evidently it was new on the market in the 70's