The Xisico Sentry Fan Club :)

[Wayne52]

That's quite the build you have there Shane !!!  I too have a prototype 705-2 that I opened the ports up to 3/16", right now it's doing up to 50fpe with my cast BBT's, these guns can really be modified good just from opening up the ports alone.  The valves in these guns was a fantastic design in my opinion, very beefy indeed.

[M_thompson42nd]

Hey all.
I talked to Mike at FDAR this morning, and he is done with the tune I asked him to do. Mike said that he enlarged all the ports ( barrel, breech, transfer) to 3.5mm in diameter. I'll try to post some chronograph data soon.
It was almost too loud to shoot at stock configuration. So I can only imagine it will be that much more now. Might have to wait until I get a new suppressor setup, or can take it out to somewhere less populated. My neighbors are cool, but I can see it getting old quick.

M@

[Sbak]

Edit, double post

[Nvreloader]

Model 705-9T- 25 cal Spec Sheet

Ok Guys
Here is some of the info/spec's, I measured from my 705-9T, 25 cal Sentry air rifle, side lever,
bought 04/2020, this is the long bbl model.

Bbl > 19-3/4" long, .550" diameter full length, 3-.090" holes spaced 120* around the bbl, for air transfer,
possible twist of 14/15"?, very hard to measure with such a short bbl, with 12 lands and grooves.

Shroud > 14-3/4" long, Outside dia = .790", Inside dia = .712".
LCD > 6-3/8" long, 1.185" OD, with 4 coned baffles with a M5x0.80 set screw for attachment to bbl.

Pressure tube > 26" in length, O/S dia = 1.185" and I/S dia = 1.015" = weight = 1 lb - 15.2 oz,
with a threaded fill probe attachment that contains a PSI gage on the end,
there is a threaded hole with a brass plunger piece that has 1 small "O" ring,
on the end and small spring for sealing of the filling pressure.

There is also a alum Burst Disc sleeve, approximately 1-1/4" above the top of the valve inlet,
the muzzle end of this round block is threaded to M16x2.0 threads, this allows you to pull the valve,
out of the pressure tube, and gain access to the valve top.

The end of this Burst Disc block that is towards the valve has a countersunk hole that is .610" dia x .470" deep,
and the threaded other end is .565" dia x .480" deep, there is a thru hole .115" diameter that allows air to reach the valve.

The burst disc hole is threaded M10x1.5mm, .470" deep, in the bottom of the hole is a plastic washer,
the burst disc stops against this plastic washer, the disc seal is .320" dia and .007" thick,
there is 2 - 20x2.65mm "O" rings that seal the ends.

Valve > 2.100" overall length, 1.010" diam, .100 valve stem protrusion from the rear end,
.105" slot across the face with a .240" air filling hole, cap has M-16x2.0 threads,
with a thick "O" for sealing between cap and valve body for securing valve in PSI tube.

Poppet > 2.020" overall length, including valve stem, poppet head = .610" long by .355" dia,
made from white hard plastic and beveled tapper seat, valve stem is .115" dia,
from bottom of poppet head to end of stem is 1.400".

Poppet spring is .700" long, .328" O/S dia, .268" I/S dia, 6 coils, .030" thick round wire,
with closed ends and snaps on the poppet head, there is a step down in the end of the valve stem of .105" dia for .150" long.

Alum valve body > with a .560" dia hole for poppet, ending at 1.020" deep, in a tapered beveled poppet seat,
TP hole is .315" dia, alum sleeve with a small "O" rings on each end, .125" dia hole,
this mates with the TP hole in the action bottom for a .130" transfer hole.

4 screws secure the valve in the PSI tube, 2 longer ones go towards the front, and the 2 shorter ones go in the rear,
there is an "O" ring that seals the rear of the valve stem and is held in place by a black plastic cap and screw>
Use Blue Lock-tite to secure this screw, as it will work loose, with only 3 threads holding the Black piece on,
plus there is a .235" dia and 1.040" long steel shaft that also secures the valve in.

Power adjustment knob > 1.010" dia with M 8x.125 threaded shaft .800" long, has approx 1/2" adjustment range for hammer spring,
the plastic spring adjustment base is very sloppy/play, will make a alum wheel with a spring guide etc.

Hammer > 1.570" long, 1.010" dia, weight of 684.14 grs, with a spring tunnel hole of .560" dia x .730" long,
hammer nose is .390" dia and .450" tall, Hammer spring is 2.460" long, .518" O/S dia, .434" I/S dia,
15 coils, .042" dia round wire.

Bolt > .458" dia, with a side lever, .170" of extra room to add a longer bolt probe if needed,
via cutting off OEM nose and adding a .090" SS wire probe to the length needed
Action length of 6-3/8" long, with a .110" TP hole and a .580" magazine opening.

Trigger > Plastic with no inspection hole, manual sliding safety that blocks the hammer nose/sear release operations,
the automatic safety has the lever parts removed by the factory, which makes it a manual safety.
It is a copy of the QB/160 trigger, but will NOT interchange, due to height measurements of the trigger body housing.
IMHO, a metal trigger would be a better option.

Any thoughts or suggestions or questions.......

A spcl note on this Sentry, brand new with no mods, about 75/80% of the screws were loose
coming from the factory, IMHO, when I buy the next one, I'll check and tighten all screws etc.

Tia,
Don

[Nvreloader]

Dead Springer
Did you get your trigger back together?
If the screw doesn't doesn't go thru tube and screw into the power adjustment knob,
then the screw is too short. You might check the front screw of the trigger housing,
and compare lengths.

I just finished with my 22 cal, I had to adjust the main trigger housing back and forth until,
I got the correct spacing for the bolt travel and magazine opening, quite a juggling act.

I have learned to measure from the end of the action to trigger housing base, and write this info down,
then when adjusting the trigger housing, go to this measurement and it's all good to go.

HTH's
Don

[Hoosier Daddy]

I need to thin the heard... REALLY want the new Beeman 1380 Target rifle.



Anyone interested in my 702-3 Sentry for $225?
I will post it on the Classifieds when I truly make up my mind unless someone chimes in here but want to test the waters and give you all a "heads-up"

[Dead Springer]

Don, that's a lot of data.  Thanks for doing it, I'm sure it will be a good reference.

I did get the trigger back on, thanks for asking.  I decided to decide that I'm not crazy and that bolt was just too short.  I had a M5x0.8 bolt on hand and it worked perfectly.  I can't explain how the original bolt held, but it must have been by a single thread.  And actually in afterthought it may have not been really holding at all because there was the weird observation that I could not cock the rifle while out of the stock.  The trigger may have been loose and moving all the time and the stock was actually holding it in place.  I don't want to think too much about it but that's a little screwy - pun intended

[Nvreloader]

David

Thanks, you just had a short screw in a long hole...............    LOL     

I am of the opinion that the factory build line, just throws these things together, after stripping down my 25 cal, several of the screws could be removed by hand, 2 of them were on the valve retention screws.

I found a couple of scalped "O" rings, that may be my leaking area on this 25 cal, as the burst disc "O" rings were bad. 
I'll have to polish the holes/slots with my flex hones and steel wool to knock off the sharp edges etc.

Now to clean/polish some areas and lube the parts that need lubing, this one Bone DRY everywhere,
I am making a new Power adjustment wheel as the plastic ones were trashy in both calibers,
this new power adjust wheel is made from Alum, and the threading is fairly tight, (no 1/16" of play),
and I added a spring guide to it, I'll test both the OEM and mine to see the difference etc.

But first I have to get some more pellets for the 25 cal and my 20 cal Dan's, just have to figure out the best weight/Brands for each, especially since I haven't shot the Dan's in 50+ yrs..

Really thinking real hard about a 20 cal on this action, as I like the way they are built,
Kinda like a John Wayne rifle, Rough and Tough and don't take chit from anyone..................   LOL

Don

[Back_Roads]

 One thing I will add to those who are following. One review I had seen stated basically , it is at an entry level price, but it is an entry level tinkers / first pcp to mod type gun, though with a FD tune at a reasonable price it is a great entry level PCP.

[M_thompson42nd]

Great info don! Thanks for doing all the leg work.
What is your opinion on regulating the 705-9 models since you have had it apart? Mike M. at flying dragon says it will be tough, due to the burst disk assembly.

[Nvreloader]

Matt
I was wondering that also, since I have never had a reg (of any brand) that fits these models,
I don't know the height of them and IF there will be enough room between the valve and burst disc cylinder etc.

I am glad that I have one of each style, as all I would have to do is change the top side,
if I plan on using a reg etc............. .

I am just about ready to get a  couple of 17's, one will become a 20 cal, then I have a 4 gun set,
that I can compare side by side etc. IMHO, a little lathe work on the valve dimensions, (to get more volume)
should bring out all that is possible along with a slightly longer bbl.

I am thinking of a 13 or 22 CI bottle, 3000 psi on a drop block, easy to reg that way, and make up for plenum volume? 
I would believe that some of the Super Builders, could provide more info than me.........

Thanks,
Don

[Nvreloader]

HD

Can you give some 411 on this rifle?
Does it have a burst disc in the plenum, long/short bbl,
standard bolt or side lever etc........

Thanks, Don

[Dead Springer]

To the point of these things are thrown together...WHERE IS MY 5?

[Wayne52]

David I've got the same model 705-9K and it's just like yours, the entire 5 can be seen once you have the breach off.  It's there but to tell you the truth when adjusting my bolt prototype 705-2 I didn't notice much difference between having it adjusted to 4 1/2, pretty much anything adjust from 4 1/2 to 5 there's not much difference.  My guess would be it's like Xisico has been doing changes almost every few shipments of these guns, whether it's their own changes or changes requested by the importer I don't know.  I'm guessing that when JSAR ordered their Hawkes they requested their own design (very similar to the first 702's) and from what I understand they ended up having problems with the barrels on them

Don that 702-5 I have had a scalped barrel o ring from the factory. 

[M_thompson42nd]

To the point of these things are thrown together...WHERE IS MY 5?

It's under there. The extra length of the receiver block for the side lever covers it up.
On mine, if you line up the trailing  square edge of the "indicator"  right on the #4 mark. That seems to be it as far as I can tell. You can kind of compare it on the opposite end.
Put the left square edge on the #2 mark and the right square edge should be at the end of travel on the #1 mark.

[M_thompson42nd]

Matt
I was wondering that also, since I have never had a reg (of any brand) that fits these models,
I don't know the height of them and IF there will be enough room between the valve and burst disc cylinder etc.

I am glad that I have one of each style, as all I would have to do is change the top side,
if I plan on using a reg etc............. .

I am just about ready to get a  couple of 17's, one will become a 20 cal, then I have a 4 gun set,
that I can compare side by side etc. IMHO, a little lathe work on the valve dimensions, (to get more volume)
should bring out all that is possible along with a slightly longer bbl.

I am thinking of a 13 or 22 CI bottle, 3000 psi on a drop block, easy to reg that way, and make up for plenum volume? 
I would believe that some of the Super Builders, could provide more info than me.........

Thanks,
Don

I know that lane regulators and huma make regs. for the 702 models. I would think they would work the same due to the similar i.d. of the pressure vessel. Only problem is the burst disk. I know sometimes you need a standoff  spacer for some reg. setup to  increase the volume for the valve or something like that.

The Lane reg. YouTube channel explains how they work and the best way to install and them. I learned a lot about them from the videos.  And also scared me due to the mods and tuning required. I'm not too savvy with machining and modding. Hopefully this rifle will help with that. 

[Wayne52]

One super good change that they could make on these guns would be to have a titanium air tube rather than the steel one.  It would make them much lighter in weight for sure and they wouldn't be nose heavy like they are. Nova Vista had the right idea about holding down the weight with the titanium air tube.  Other than that they're a super nice hunter once you get them where you want them. 

[Nvreloader]

Wayne

What is the weight difference between your 702 (short bbl) and 705 (long bbl), as you have them set up for hunting?

Do you think a titanium tube on the 705 series (long bbl) would be close to the 702 (short bbl) rifles?

Thanks,
Don

[Wayne52]

Don I'd say that it's at least a half pound lighter or more, I don't have a shipping scale, I should pick one up one of these days.  It's a lot less nose heavy for sure.

[Hoosier Daddy]

Wayne.... PM and email sent.
But pics are so hard on either one for me... so here they are.