I knew it was too good to be true, !!!!!!!!

[WesBob]

I felt a major blast of air from the jct

jct?
whazzat?
 I and feeling stoopid again. 

I was thinking junction

[pecor]

Well at least your making Headway!!  You can try to snug up those pesky fittings It may work fine, I personally Don't use Teflon tape on my fittings myself, Others do,  I Retired from the aircraft field where thread tape is a No No.   I much prefer a thread sealant, And I use  http://www.airgas.com/p/L6556531  It's rated to 10,000 psi, and easy as pie to take apart even after a good long cure, And easy to clean off old cured with your finger nail when doing service disassembly and reassembly. And I have Never had a leak from It!  It does require an overnight cure however.  And if you interested ??  This is the seller I purchased from and was 100% satisfied with the sale and shipping is ---   http://www.ebay.com/itm/Loctite-37396-PST-565-Thread-Sealant-/142159296211?epid=1437283251&hash=item21195ab6d3:g:yJgAAOSwo4pYDlqC

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Thanks Guys

HD
Jct is the abbreviation for Junction, like Pettycoat Jct, maybe ahead of your time. LOL 

WesBob
Get's the Gold Star, LOL 

Pecor
Thanks for the sealant info, I have a tube coming,
as it appears it will be needed with this AR and it's leaking habits etc.

Tia,
Don

[Hoosier Daddy]

Gotchya...

And  not hardly... 

"There's Uncle Joe, He's a movin kinda slow, at the Junction."

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Pecor

What would your thoughts be on using a heavy coating of the 565 thread sealant to provide a air proof gasket,
when using the nipple (aka Crosman type) to seal the TP hole etc, providing every thing is made/machined to match  to each other?

I haven't received my 565 sealant yet.

I am going to try my Idea of using Ferr-l-tite to seal all voids etc, easy to use and clean/remove as needed etc,
and I have to find a GOOD way to cut the tubing type seals, straight/true,  as using scissors don't work well, as I found out.   

Tia,
Don

[pecor]

That wont work, With this sealer,  As it's  "Anaerobic" meaning that {The product cures when confined in
the absence of air between close fitting metal surfaces}  and prevents loosening and leakage from shock and vibration. which is why you can get it apart after assembly fairly easy. It's not like glue.                     For cutting the tubing type seals, straight/true slide the Tube over a wood dowel or drill bit the same size as ID,  And use a straight edge razor blade to cut thru, You could do it on a drill spinning slowly and use the blade like a lathe bit. Or slide the tube over your drill bit and roll it on a table as you cut it straight. If you use a drill bit I would use a fresh blade for each cut    I'm not sure if the  Ferr-l-tite will work? Make sure it's clean, Rubbing alcohol You can try it, I have used it in archery as my son shoots 3D leagues. You might try cheap 5 min epoxy from a big box store? use it lightly, {Just enough to do the Job} As It can be softened and removed with heat such as a soldering iron applied to the transfer port latter down the road if you need to remove it. Don't use slow set epoxy however as it will Not soften up like 5 minute will. It's a different formula . If you get your tube cut straight with proper length, Make it just a touch longer for a crush fit when tightened - up. And you should be Good!! With out any thing.  Jaa   

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Jay

I guess I should have explained myself better, sorry about that.

After the TP fitting is machined as close as possible to fit the repeater breech etc,
then use the 565 sealant between the 2 metal joint surfaces,
this would make sure that this TP seal does not move/come loose, and provides air proof joint,
then the "O" ring tubing could be cut to the required length for the rest of the sealing area to the psi tube etc.

I would make the TP ferell fit the breech, as it has no recessed area for the plastic tubing to center up on around the TP hole etc,
the psi tube as a shallow recess to fit the tubing into.

I'll have to get the wood dowels out and try that trick for cutting the tubing into "O" rings.

Tia,
Don

[Hoosier Daddy]

Try going to your local "cigarette outlet" gas stations and pick up a cheap cigar cutter that looks like a little guillotine.

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Scott

Thanks for that info, just might work,
I know scissors won't cut uniformly/square ends etc.

I will measure the total distance between the breech and psi tube, to get the overall distance,
I have to find the correct length for the compression of the "O" ring etc.

The TP/bottom of this repeater breech has a radius channel which closely matches the radius of the psi tube,
in which the TP hole is drilled thru, there is no radius cut ring/lip for the "O" ring to seal against,
so it appears that this "O" ring can be very easily displaced when assembling the 2 parts together, as i found out etc.

I will mill a "O" ring lip for the sealing end of the "O" ring to fit into and to stop the movement etc.
I am in the process of turning a alum and brass metal adapter sleeve to fit the the psi tube (aka Crosman style),
and then have the the tubing "O" ring fit over this sleeve and fit into the lip of the breech, contain any movement etc.

I now have several different sizes/diameters of the tubing "O" ring material, just deciding on which one to use,
I think I'll start with the clear type smaller inside diameter of .240" O/S x .175" I/S, as this as close to bore diameter for max internal ballistics,
black color is .290" O/S x .190" I/S diameter approx.

Still doing some careful measurements and pencil whipping the info, and figuring out the final results etc.

Tia,
Don

[pecor]

 {Quote} the TP fitting is machined as close as possible to fit the repeater breech etc,
then use the 565 sealant between the 2 metal joint surfaces,   Hello Don. Yep I misunderstood your use.  All you can do is try, In that case the Ferr-l-tite may work as well? And you really don't need a wood dowel, Think,  Anything round and firm that fits Just slightly snug in your tube will work. Old hobby paint brush handle, ink-pen cartridge, shish-kabob stick,                                                         It in fact Looks like that factory QB79 transfer port seal is Junk, Do some reading by searching here for  {QB79 transfer port}, Looks like lots are using the crosman seal,  https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=105551.msg1000763#msg1000763                                                                                                                             And here is a Different take on that same seal -- http://www.ebay.com/itm/SMK-QB-TH-XS-78-79-TRANSFER-PORT-CUSTOM-SIZES-/172853316301?hash=item283edc4acd:g:-bMAAOSws4JW7bP3

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Jay

That Ebay site has/is the same type of seal that was in my OEM 79.......before I went to the repeater breech,

But I think it is too short in length to complete the seal with the repeater breech/bbl etc, because of the radius on the bottom etc.

You have given another Idea to completely sealing my "Leaking Lena",   
Thanks

As I have some soft squishy Teflon rods to play with.

Tia,
Don

[pecor]

My fault, That's my age setting in completely forgot about the repeater breech, Duh . No way to mill or file a flat instead like crosman does on their valves and barrel ports?, I did see this it's not for your gun but maybe you could add to the Idea list, Looks simple to put together,   http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HIGH-FLOW-TRANSFER-PORT-TO-FIT-CROSMAN-2240-2250-2260-2289-1377-1322-/272870267948?_trksid=p2349526.m2548.l4275

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Thanks Jay

That site has given me some more food for thought Ideas. 

Tia,
Don