RWS 350 Mag .177 Best pellet

[LAalex]

     Good discussion here.  I will contribute what little I can.  As far as sling mounting, I used a set designed for lever action centerfire and connected the magazine tube mount onto the barrel.  The one I ordered was one size too big but I shimmed with aluminum soda can and all is well.  I've taken it on 3 and 4 hour squirrel hunts with no issues.  As far as ammo, I would definitely suggest buying one tin each of the H&N Barracuda hunter (they come in 3 or 4 head sizes IIRC).  Your rifle will tell you which one it likes best.  Mine is a .22 so I don't have any insight as to which one might work best except to say that of the 3 Dianas I have owned ( all in .22 cal) they all preferred ammo in the middle to large head sizes (5.53-5.54).  And yes, the 350 has a bad rep and the 48 IMO is easier to learn, but the 350 is worth the trouble.  It's a fine rifle.  Good luck with yours.

https://www.pyramydair.com/brands/haendler-natermann/ammo?mid=7&pid=109

[Rattosaurus]

Thanks LAalex

I used to have a similar barrel band on my Diana 36, it did work well, had a removable swivel and was available in American 1" width...but it wasn't designed for an air rifle.  I was hoping, with a $500 dollar air rifle as the subject somebody would have come up with something that was from the factory.   

You'll notice that it tends to limit the amount of sling pressure you can muster up on the thing.   

The H@N Barracudas, I 'm having technical difficulties with my scope(and the weather), but I was having a problem with them in a different rifle and something for us all to watch out for.  The Barricudas should be the best of my pellets, (The BC is high: Cudos downrange wappp!) but when I tested them it was neck and neck until I moved the target to thirty yards...when I moved the target to thirty yards the H@N barracudas, which were chewing a nice jagged little hole in my 20yd target were suddenly key-holing and tumbling all over the paper....(which, I assume means that my barrel wasn't spinning them fast enough.  Hatsan 100x, I think it's about 20ftlbs, I don't have a chrony and it's down for a broken mainspring.)...


so, The H@N Barracudas may work great through my 350, if they do or not I'll post it here...but in the meantime, I'm stuck in the land of cheap broken aluminum scopemounts until I find something made out of steel that I like...(Saltwater territorys, galvanics)

[Yogi]

Thanks LAalex

I used to have a similar barrel band on my Diana 36, it did work well, had a removable swivel and was available in American 1" width...but it wasn't designed for an air rifle.  I was hoping, with a $500 dollar air rifle as the subject somebody would have come up with something that was from the factory.   

You'll notice that it tends to limit the amount of sling pressure you can muster up on the thing.   

The H@N Barracudas, I 'm having technical difficulties with my scope(and the weather), but I was having a problem with them in a different rifle and something for us all to watch out for.  The Barricudas should be the best of my pellets, (The BC is high: Cudos downrange wappp!) but when I tested them it was neck and neck until I moved the target to thirty yards...when I moved the target to thirty yards the H@N barracudas, which were chewing a nice jagged little hole in my 20yd target were suddenly key-holing and tumbling all over the paper....(which, I assume means that my barrel wasn't spinning them fast enough.  Hatsan 100x, I think it's about 20ftlbs, I don't have a chrony and it's down for a broken mainspring.)...


so, The H@N Barracudas may work great through my 350, if they do or not I'll post it here...but in the meantime, I'm stuck in the land of cheap broken aluminum scopemounts until I find something made out of steel that I like...(Saltwater territorys, galvanics)

I spend 6 months, and some of my airguns spend all year,  in a harsh marine environment.  That is what the boat people call it. 

How do you store your guns?  I put mine in a silicon gun sleeve and then in a soft case...

-Y

[LAalex]

Thanks LAalex

I used to have a similar barrel band on my Diana 36, it did work well, had a removable swivel and was available in American 1" width...but it wasn't designed for an air rifle.  I was hoping, with a $500 dollar air rifle as the subject somebody would have come up with something that was from the factory.   

You'll notice that it tends to limit the amount of sling pressure you can muster up on the thing.   

The H@N Barracudas, I 'm having technical difficulties with my scope(and the weather), but I was having a problem with them in a different rifle and something for us all to watch out for.  The Barricudas should be the best of my pellets, (The BC is high: Cudos downrange wappp!) but when I tested them it was neck and neck until I moved the target to thirty yards...when I moved the target to thirty yards the H@N barracudas, which were chewing a nice jagged little hole in my 20yd target were suddenly key-holing and tumbling all over the paper....(which, I assume means that my barrel wasn't spinning them fast enough.  Hatsan 100x, I think it's about 20ftlbs, I don't have a chrony and it's down for a broken mainspring.)...


so, The H@N Barracudas may work great through my 350, if they do or not I'll post it here...but in the meantime, I'm stuck in the land of cheap broken aluminum scopemounts until I find something made out of steel that I like...(Saltwater territorys, galvanics)

What is the head size of the barracudas you are using--it should be printed on a tag on the bottom of the tin. In my experience this measurement has been crucial.

[Yogi]

My experience with the 340-N-tec had been that it like medium to larger head sizes.  Do not know if the same is true with the 350?

-Y

[LAalex]

     As I mentioned earlier, that has been my experience.  However, many members have posted that their Dianas like JSB pellets and those are listed at 5.52 head size and in fact my 48 shoots JSB very well(it shoots almost everything very well).  So it just depends on the individual rifle.  You could have two barrels that come off the line one after another that prefer different ammo.  Nature of the beast.

Cheers,
Scotty

[packard8]

Update: After about 150-200 shots the D350 is settling in and loosening up. Now shooting the Brown Box CPM 10.5's at 949.6 avg FPS, 20.9 ES, 7.8 SD for 21 FPE. I'd like the ES & SD to tighten up, we'll see after a few hundred more shots. Also tired the H&N Medium Snipers, they group pretty tight but about an inch higher than the CPM's, didn't adjust the scope as I'll stick with the CPM's.

[dtdtdtdt]

Packard8:

What is CPM abbreviation for?   Crosman Premier Magnum?

That should be a good combination for distance shooting. 

My 54 at 865f/s zeroed at 17 works well out to 50yds (1" groups there!)  with the Kodiak Match 10.6gr nominal diameter.

BTW:  I used to live in Tulsa - worked for Amoco at 41st & Yale from 77 to about 94 with a break in Chicago for 4 years.

[packard8]

Packard8:

What is CPM abbreviation for?   Crosman Premier Magnum?

That should be a good combination for distance shooting. 

My 54 at 865f/s zeroed at 17 works well out to 50yds (1" groups there!)  with the Kodiak Match 10.6gr nominal diameter.

BTW:  I used to live in Tulsa - worked for Amoco at 41st & Yale from 77 to about 94 with a break in Chicago for 4 years.

Yes Dave, Crosman Premier Magnum. I look for them on sale in the brown box of 1250, they seem to be more consistent than the tins or milk cartons....or maybe just my imagination?... . They are a good all-round pellet and not too pricey when you catch them on sale. They also shoot well in my D52/.177, you might try them in your 54, but looks like the Kodiaks are working well for you.



I don't think Amoco is still at that location, maybe moved to Houston like many other petro corporations?

John

[dtdtdtdt]

yes, Amoco moved and gave it to U of OK for their Med school in Tulsa.

Regarding the brown box with large numbers of pellets.  NCED, who sometimes shows up here, has said in past posts that he buys brown boxes of pellets because they apparently come from the same die for the whole box while tins are frequently mixtures.  ED if you see this please chime in and correct me!!

During some of the tests that I reported on, I found a tin that clearly had a mixture of two batches.  Their average was true 0.5gr different.  I don't remember exact numbers but say something like 7.3gr and 7.8gr.  They would also show two groups about a 1/2" apart.  I also don't remember which manufacturer but you get the idea.

If you want to be truly confused, weighing and measuring pellets is a whole different discipline.  If you want to get into that, be aware that the powder scales that most use are barely adequate with resolutions of 0.1gr.  I have a Gem scale that resolves to 0.02gr reliably.  I used a set of Starrett micrometers for measuring but again found them barely adequate for the task.  I have calibration weights from an old analytical balance in my collection of weird junk and a new set of calibration weights that I purchased.  They showed that the powder scale was linear but not too sensitive while the Gem scale was more linear and more sensitive.

Example with the powder scale , I weighed 100 pellets separately into 10.2, 10.3, 10.4, 10.5, 10.6, 10.7, 10.8 gr.  (that is 10.2 to 10.29 in one bin etc.  The tin weight was 10.6gr. 

I weighed each group separately, expecting something  between 10.2 and 10.3 for that batch.  etc.  The average for all batches came out around 10.35gr.  Weighing 100 random pellets from the tin gave the 10.35number again.  From that I concluded that the scale wasn't quite good enough.  Not that they all weighed the same. 

With the Gem scale, I did better but still got an average of 10.3+ for the batch.  I got tighter averages that the powder scale but still not consistent enough to suit me. 

Given all that, I decided to worry about that tomorrow and just shoot!!

[packard8]

yes, Amoco moved and gave it to U of OK for their Med school in Tulsa.

Regarding the brown box with large numbers of pellets.  NCED, who sometimes shows up here, has said in past posts that he buys brown boxes of pellets because they apparently come from the same die for the whole box while tins are frequently mixtures.  ED if you see this please chime in and correct me!!

During some of the tests that I reported on, I found a tin that clearly had a mixture of two batches.  Their average was true 0.5gr different.  I don't remember exact numbers but say something like 7.3gr and 7.8gr.  They would also show two groups about a 1/2" apart.  I also don't remember which manufacturer but you get the idea.

If you want to be truly confused, weighing and measuring pellets is a whole different discipline.  If you want to get into that, be aware that the powder scales that most use are barely adequate with resolutions of 0.1gr.  I have a Gem scale that resolves to 0.02gr reliably.  I used a set of Starrett micrometers for measuring but again found them barely adequate for the task.  I have calibration weights from an old analytical balance in my collection of weird junk and a new set of calibration weights that I purchased.  They showed that the powder scale was linear but not too sensitive while the Gem scale was more linear and more sensitive.

Example with the powder scale , I weighed 100 pellets separately into 10.2, 10.3, 10.4, 10.5, 10.6, 10.7, 10.8 gr.  (that is 10.2 to 10.29 in one bin etc.  The tin weight was 10.6gr. 

I weighed each group separately, expecting something  between 10.2 and 10.3 for that batch.  etc.  The average for all batches came out around 10.35gr.  Weighing 100 random pellets from the tin gave the 10.35number again.  From that I concluded that the scale wasn't quite good enough.  Not that they all weighed the same. 

With the Gem scale, I did better but still got an average of 10.3+ for the batch.  I got tighter averages that the powder scale but still not consistent enough to suit me. 

Given all that, I decided to worry about that tomorrow and just shoot!!

True Dave, on the bottom of the CPM box there is sticker with the die designation (A, B, C etc) and I believe a date. Shooters more advanced than I will often buy a number of boxes with the same die and date. I have also read that the brown box dies are only used for a certain limited period and then transferred to the production of the regular "tin and milk carton" line. NCED can give a better dissertation on the matter I'm sure. At this point, my eyes, nerves and general marksmanship skills likely don't match the capability of the equipment I use, but by using good equipment I eliminate any excuses.....

Interesting observations on the various scales, head sizes and weights.....as long as my accuracy is within "Moment of Squirrel" I'm satisfied.... 

[dtdtdtdt]

I haven't tried to get the brown box pellets you mention as I don't shoot that much.  I measure  my accuracy in 1/4 or 1/4 minute of chipmunk units. 

Didn't have them in Tulsa but $3000 in damage to hardscape wall led me to kill off as many as I could here.  The grand total to date is a bit over 400.  I kind of lost track a few years ago when I broke my neck on the driveway but had exceeded 300 at that time.  I started tracking the next year and since have shot over 100.  It looks like I am going to have to do it again as my wife reported that she saw a hole near the wall again.  I sit at the kitchen table with an open window, a Caldwell tack driver bag and my 54.  Rabbits are also appearing where we didn't have them a year ago so...they may be on the agenda too.  I hoped the increase in local fox and coyote population would help keep them down.  However, I haven't see a big yellow cat that hung around recently.  A coyote may have had him for dinner and is causing an increase in chipmunk population.

Funny story about feral cats and coyotes:  I live near the Cuyahoga Valley National Park that was dedicated about 25 years ago.  The park didn't have too many song birds but had numerous feral cats.  A neighbor of mine was on the oversight team for the park.  They approved release of coyotes into the park.  In a few years, the song bird and coyote population increased and the feral cats decreased. 

Cheers!

[dtdtdtdt]

 "I shimmed with aluminum soda can and all is well"

I found an excellent source of steel shim stock of various thicknesses super cheap!  Buy the old fashioned feeler gauges that we rarely use or see these days.  A couple bucks at Harbor Freight?  About the right size, multiple thicknesses.  I have used them many times. 

Some thoughts on sling usage on break barrel.  If you are using it for carry attaching to the barrel is probably OK. However, carrying in the woods might wiggle something loose and activity impact accuracy.   If you are using the sling as an aid to tight holding, it might be a problem.  Many years ago after quite a period of prone competition, I had the need to shoot a Ruger Mini 14 from the prone position.  Its sling attachment was on the barrel.  My normal sling setup was enough to deflect the barrel and ruin accuracy.  I had to shoot it unconfined to hit anything.

Probably better to figure out how to attach it to the stock. 

[Rattosaurus]

I'm getting a lot of responses, thanks guys.

An inexpensive source of steel shim stock is nice, I never did find one....$85...?

....and the subject of that saltwater marine thing is important us us all, but since it encompasses the entire field of naval architecture, I'll give it a short mention: A) Any two dis-similar metals, in direct contact with each other will generate an electrical charge.
                         B) Any electrical charge flowing through metals will generate free hydrogen ions.
                         C) Any free hydrogen ions in contact with moisture will produce acid.
                         A+B+C= Clean your barrel with a bronze brush and oil your gun.



Now, what is IMPORTANT! that I keep on failing to mention is that the Diana/RWS 350 Magnum does not have any type of "anti beartrap" mechanism...which means to us all is that for one thing it is possible to decock the rifle...it also means that we will all keep on shooting the thing, and fiddling with the trigger adjustments, until it goes off while we are loading it...so! while loading the gun please rest your forearm on the barrel of the rifle, the weight of your forearm is adequate to throw the gun clear of your thumb.

With that...(My only scope is still broke.)  I noticed that my rifle needed to the rear sight taken apart and cleaned up, the factory lube had become putty..that was easy...but, as usual, since the safety detente wasn't working and thing needed to be oiled anyhow, I knocked the brand new rifle out of the stock...(THANK YOU RWS...NO GREASE INSIDE OF THE GUN.).......

I assume there was nothing "wrong" with the T05 trigger until somebody upgraded it, so, if you knock yours down to twek it out a little bit, remember not to be afraid to bump all three pins out...its the pin that is the most difficult to work that needs it the most...as far as working a trigger goes, piece of cake.   6000 grit and a touch of grease.   The one adjustment screw effects seer engagement, so, after polishing everything, I left mine a little too much, until it brakes in.  Safety detente is due to the plasic that the saftey is made from, I guess they didn't figure on the air conditioned warehouse in Arizona reaching 140 degrees...

...did any of you guys notice that trigger guard, looks like plastic but is actually an aluminum/white metal casting?....a shame we can't get away all from this plastic stuff, at any price.


Shot a few shots with it after that , off my knee, no sling at fifty feet and it decided that it can constantly stay inside of a quarter.  Had one 3/8 x 1/2 inch group, vertically strung....cleaned gun and put it back in the box...it will wait until I fix "the problem" which I'm pretty sure is with the gun's balance.

I still haven't decided on a scope or pellets....I'll have to test it at 35-40 yards, so I'll probably find a few things that appear to work but don't work.  A hunting rifle is only as good as you can shoot it and I prefer to miss because it is my fault...



I assume that is something that has brought us all together here..."why did I miss?" should not be answered with "Because your equipment is junk."  For over ten thousand years men have been hurling things at little furry creatures and blaming it on the equipment, their best teachers have been telling them to change hunting techniques to suit their own skills and other men have been providing really stupid and expensive solutions, I doubt I'm here to fix it.

[dtdtdtdt]

An inexpensive scope that did pretty well in earlier tests on my FWB was made by Center Point.  Nothing fancy but can be had with adjustable objective, air gun rated at WALMART!!!!  Check their on-line store with free shipping to your local WallyWorld.  A friend has the 4-12 while I have a 3-9 that started on my 54, moved to the FWB (a bit too long) and has migrated to one of my light 22 rifles.  In any case, if it dies too quickly the investment is low compared to some of the really good ones that also die!!  Unless you are getting into field target or other competition for under $75 it can't be beat.  Glass pretty OK - not Zeiss but OK.  Chipmunks didn't mind the cheap scope that blew their brains out.  MAKE SURE YOU FIND ONE THAT IS AIR GUN recoil capable AND HAS AN ADJUSTABLE OBJECTIVE for parallax and focus at close ranges. 

I do recommend the RWS single piece mount but any will do if you torque them to the correct levels.  The best investment If you want to get cheap ones that are actually pretty good,  I ran across a Chinese vendor at a gun show with a host of cheap mounts, rings, etc. They are marked Sniper - who knows where they were made other than China.  A bit crude but good steel screws and a recoil stop pin and fit a 11mm rail for under $10 a pair!!!  I had them on my 54 for a while but switched back to the RWS. I have seen them on Ebay and other websites too.  I was working on scope height so both different heights trying to get the lowest I could. 

The most expensive scope I have is the Clearridge that is now on my FWB and was about $220.  I found a sell out at online air gun vendor  (straight shooters) when they were doing inventory and bought 4 pretty good mid range scopes for 1/3 price each.  They are living on some of my powder guns that had previously had pretty crappy BSA scopes.  One of them is a Weaver target style scope with super-fine cross hairs and a 0.125minute dot at 16x.  Unfortunately, my eyes make using it pretty difficult as I can't easily find the crosshairs.  For hunting it would be a disaster but for bench-rest or target shooting against a white background it is OK.  The dot is half the size of a 22 caliber hole at 100yds.  Right now it is living in a box while I get my 243 M70 Varmintmaster tuned up. (pillar bed, free float, glass bedding, trigger tune. )