Hatsan AT44S-10 Equal To MRod ?

[Ribbonstone]

I've not had any trouble getting good accuracy (as good as I got with the M-rods) so long as I did the following:

1. Adjusted for a nice even output on the chronograph.  May not mean much, but having them launce in a nice predictable, smooth bell cure has NEVER hurt.

2. Made sure the barrel bands were tight to the stock,  the air tube "free" to be unscrewed and screwed in without binding, and the barrel o-ringed to the top of the band "close but not binding" (meaning I can unscrew the set screws on the barrel and pull it straight out if I had to). I still prefer one barrel band, because it's easier to set up that way, but two bands won't hurt (just harder to get "right").

3. Never wind in the striker spring to absolute tight.  Too tight, and it compromises magazine cycling and sear setting.  Always leave enough space for a little "slack cocking" movement AFTER you feel/hear the sear set on cocking.



The "off" one was the 5mm Webley/Hasan Raider.  FINALLY figured out the 5mm barrel had a smaller diameter barrel shank that the other two (after all, they were a small run of 5mm's...Hatsan doesn't deal in that caliber, so the barrels were an independent run from somewhere).  With too small a shank, the o-ring barrel would kind of misalign  with the mag. if screwed down tight-tight.  If left "kind of tight" it would align, but wiggle.

For that one, I made the barrel shank "fatter".  Basically remove the barrel, removed the O-rings on the barrel, degreases it, silver soldered it, "flung off the silver solder so it was basically "tinned" all around (which increased the diameter slightly), cleaned it up, added the or9ngs, and got it to both screw down tight-tight AND line up to the magazine.





Can tell for them ones shown, I rather like the SHORT TUBE (180cc's) and a detachable LDC.  For me it works out better.  A shorter rifle (LDC OFF) out in the woods when I don't care how loud a PCP is (it's never going to be as loud as a .22RF or a 12gr.) or a quiet rifle (LDC on) for suburban shooting.



What I am missing in that line up is a .22.  and I'll think about one just for completeness....but it's more likely to be another short-tube Hatsan than it is to be an M-rod.

[Spickus]

I have both .25 MRod & .22 AT44. I would've picked the MRod before I installed a $70 reg in the Hatsan but now..... If I were to buy the .25 again I would buy the Hatsan.

[Privateer]

I'm an admitted Hatsan Fan. All 3 of the AT44's are killers as they are.
I got a bad taste from my 1st M-Rod and just can not warm up to it yet.
But that is just my slant. Down the road I may give the M-Rod a serious try again.

[Mod90]

This one has been beaten to death, Mrod vs AT44, but here's a few differences to note from my perspective.

Hatsan comes in 2 lengths, Mrod comes in only one
Otb, the power advantage goes to Hatsan, but the Mrod is a close second
They are both similarly quiet
The Hatsan Quattro trigger is far better than the Mrod trigger, both in feel and adjustability
The sidelever on a new AT44 will stay closed if the muzzle is pointing skyward while being carried even if it gets  bumped and it's easier to cock. A new Mrod bolt can feel a little gritty, and if pointing muzzle skyward and bolt gets bumped it will open.
There's more parts & mods for the Mrod
Hatsan reservoirs are built stronger than the Mrod.
The hatsan can be had new much cheaper than the Mrod, but that doesn't take anything away from it's value as a proven platform.


They​ are both very good starter guns, but not the same at all. Can't go wrong either way really, but if I had to recommend either, even with something of a lack of parts availability, I'd still suggest the AT44 without hesitation. I sold mine after putting over 70 tins of pellets through it over the years, and she still performs as expected for her new owner today & no parts have ever needed repairs or replacing other than breech and reservoir orings that can be found at any hardware store.

That's my 2 cents worth.

[Rallyshark]

This comparison always comes down to use and caliber for me.  If you want a .22 don't get an Mrod, it is just too risky IMO.  Sure, some have Mrods that shoot well in .22, but many don't.  If you want a .25, I say Mrod and it is usually a tack driver with the GM barrel.  If you want the most power out of the box, get the Hatsan.  In this case, for $300, I say order away