eBay compressor

[Buldawg76]

Mike,

Since we are not breathing the air, why worry about the oil/chemical vapors? other than tiny whiff of smelly air when you bleed the fill hose, what risk does it pose?

John
The risk is that there can be petroleum vapors that are transferred into the tanks or guns air tube that could combust  under the High pressure that would create a very dangerous bomb waiting to explode. Its not safe or wise to not try to capture as much of any flammable vapor as possible when compressing air to the pressure we use for our guns. research the composition of the mediums used in the diabolo filters that go for 300 plus.

http://www.airtanksforsale.com/AlphaFilter/

Mike

[shultz]

Mike,

Forgive me If I'm just not thinking this thru...

If these vapors posed an explosion risk, would they not do so during compression??

I do understand, petroleum products in the path of the in coming high pressure air pose a risk for explosion.

[bandg]

25 years before I ever fooled with PCP's we had N20 and O2 tanks in offices.  It was always hammered in to us to only use silicone on the threads since any combustible material that reached the high pressure area could lead to explosion.  I personally don't want any amount of chemical residue building up in the system that can be avoided.  I guess some is inevitable but how much would it take to trigger combustion/explosion?  I don't know and do not want to find out.

[Buldawg76]

Mike,

Forgive me If I'm just not thinking this thru...

If these vapors posed an explosion risk, would they not do so during compression??

I do understand, petroleum products in the path of the in coming high pressure air pose a risk for explosion.

John
That is a good question and do not really have a good answer for it. Just know you need to try to capture it before it gets to the tanks or guns. The 13x medium will not absorb it very well so that's why the need for charcoal or other medium designed to absorb those vapors.

Mike

[Wayne52]

Once all said and done about quality of the compressors on ebay I might order one if I think it will last me a long time (with normal maintenance) but for now I'll continue going to the dive shop for $5 for the large tanks to 4500psi.

[fxtrapper]

I bit the bullet today and got one for 312.00 bucks shipped but I live 1.5 hours from the nearest dive shop so I will try it out. Sick of hand pumping it has to be better to fill a gun up.

[Bizill]

Are not automotive thermostats used to regulate flow/temperature of coolant only there to disallow an over-COOLED temperature?  They are there to allow the coolant to reach operating temperature.  No thermostat, the coolant may never get up to the desired HEAT set point.  Regulating the flow of the coolant in a car does not make the coolant cooler.  The thermostat can only get to maximum COOLING of the coolant at FULL OPEN.  If the thermostat closes, the flow slows down in order to HEAT the coolant back up to keep it at the desired HEAT.  Ya'll keep talking like the thermostat closes to give better cooling of the coolant???

[fxtrapper]

What kind of oil is recommended for these compressors?

[Bizill]

Yong Heng recommends VG46 hydraulic oil, which I have aplenty at work.  Multiple 55gallon drums but there are petrolium distallates in it so I don't want to keep using it for long.  Everyone recommends VG150 oil which gets expensive, but not prohibitively so in my opinion.  I may go that route.  I'd bet the VG46 will be fine, though. 

[PushingPELLETS]

I appreciate the info regarding the sieve material...and for wayne52 i also was a little skeptical about the compressors and did allot of reading and looking into the units before purchasing and i can say that i am very happy i did...my drive to fillville was also quite a trip and i found myself going more and more....being the price and i got enough rebuilds in case anything should happen that it should last awhile....i haven't had it more than almost a week now but...the experience has been good with seller shipping and am overall happy with the quality....while the main thing like has been discussed now is keeping it relatively cool and get a external drier for it....as far as oil it is recommended iso46 but i have read numerous different oils used now with success iso46. Synthetic compressor oil chemlube 751....personally i used a cheap compressor oil to run as a "break in" and did a good flush of it before using the chemlube just to get rid of any remaining gunk from factory etc.... Overall a good option for the average shooter to get rid of a hand pump or save from driving to fillville...sorry to get long winded on what seems like nonsense...

Lastly i will update cooling has gotten much better final usuage was additional fan on compressor 10gal water container and pump on 3/4 flow and ice packs in water kept it in low 40c for the same time it would get into 50c

Thanks guys for all the help and great info on compressors

[bandg]

How long these compressors will last is a question at this point but I sure do like flipping a couple of switches and quickly having a full gun.  I have a 50 gallon air compressor in my shop that I bought about 6 years ago because it had wheels and I could move it around where needed.  It has the same or at least very similar motor (by all outward appearances) as the Tuxing compressor and has been used quite a lot over those 6 years.  Obviously no HPA section which would seem to be the most likely location for problems to arise but the motor has been fine for many operating hours.

[Jman2311]

Biz we agreed to drop this but you're right. I use chemlube 751 and still see signs of dieseling.  YMMV.  I'd recommend molecular sieve and activated charcoal on the output. 

[Bizill]

Yeah, I've got the 13 sieve stuff recommended here from Ebay.  It wouldn't be hard for me to cut a piece of my aquarium filter to fit between a layer of activated charcoal and the sieve.  I'm using that big golden high pressure filter as most are.  I may still go over to chemlube 751 but we'll see...

Right now I'm stuck in the water as I don't have a way to fill my Chinese Acecare SCBA tank.  I have the valve and fill whip but not the filling valve.  I suppose I could use a male - male foster and go in the reverse direction with my fill probe on the tank but I don't have one, the weekend is upon us and the unit I have on order from Aliexpress seems to be lost with USPS.  Daaaaaaaaaamnit!

No stores, not even painball stores locally have what I need.  Industrial hose fitting stores may have them but are all closed on the weekend.  I'll probably have one made at work or just order up from Amazon but there goes my entire weekend.  I so wanted to play with my compressor and tank this weekend.

[shultz]

Adding a little activated carbon to the filter will be easy, why not....

$10 worth of aquarium activated carbon should last for 5-6 media changes, maybe more.

Does anyone know the thread size on each end of the gold Chinese filter? I'm guessing 1/8"NPT for both ends?

Reason I ask. I'm thinking of adding a 6000psi needle valve at the discharge end of the filter. This way, during start up, I can close off the needle valve, allow the filter to pressurize to say 2500-3000 psi. since my tanks will have 2000psi or more already, once I open the needle valve, I'll have some dwell time for the start up low pressure air to have dried in the filter and the back pressure from the tank needed to keep it that way during the fill...

Still looking for a 1/8"NPT,6000psi needle valve... I've found many 1/4". At worst I'll use a couple of bushings. Just need to know what thread size the filter has at each end.

[Jman2311]

1/8 npt stuff is tough to find for our needs, at least in my experience. I made a reg tester and bleeder from all 1/4 npt stuff and the just used a reducer to get to the 1/8 for the bottle connection.  I wanted to add a better gauge for comparison reasons and had to machine an adapter for m10x1 to 1/4npt.

[Bob Pratl]

Adding a little activated carbon to the filter will be easy, why not....
$10 worth of aquarium activated carbon should last for 5-6 media changes, maybe more.
Does anyone know the thread size on each end of the gold Chinese filter? I'm guessing 1/8"NPT for both ends?
Reason I ask. I'm thinking of adding a 6000psi needle valve at the discharge end of the filter. This way, during start up, I can close off the needle valve, allow the filter to pressurize to say 2500-3000 psi. since my tanks will have 2000psi or more already, once I open the needle valve, I'll have some dwell time for the start up low pressure air to have dried in the filter and the back pressure from the tank needed to keep it that way during the fill...
Still looking for a 1/8"NPT,6000psi needle valve... I've found many 1/4". At worst I'll use a couple of bushings. Just need to know what thread size the filter has at each end.

John, I was thinking about the same thing except I want to also place a valve on the input end of the filter because it takes an additional 2-3 minutes to pressurize the filter when empty after bleeding the lines. That would also require a bleeder on the discharge end of the filter. When will all these MODS end   Bob

[shultz]

Bob,

I hope the filter, and what ever it takes to get it right, ends the Mods... probably not though

Maybe a fancy paint job on the case? Intake air dryer? Actually thought about drying the intake air.......

[Killfire]

Bob,

I hope the filter, and what ever it takes to get it right, ends the Mods... probably not though

Maybe a fancy paint job on the case? Intake air dryer? Actually thought about drying the intake air.......

Restricting the intake has a serious negative impact on the output.

[Buldawg76]

The threads on the gold filter are BSPP not 1/8 NPT so you would need a adapter bushing to go from BSPP to 1/8 NPT and then a 1/4 to 1/8 NPT bushing to add the needle valve to the end of the filter housing. I have a 6000 psi needle valve on the output side of my filter but just used two bushing to reduce to 1/8 NPT with two male foster in each end of the needle valve. Then I have it in the end of the fill whip that comes with the filter with another fill whip from it to my tanks or guns. When filling I close the needle valve to allow pressure to build to 3000 psi before opening the valve to fill a tank or gun. Filling a tank is not a problem when bleeding the HPA since I just close the needle valve before bleeding the pressure off with the tanks bleed valve. To fill a gun and bleed the pressure I have a modified scuba tank K valve block that would normally attach to the valve on the scuba tank but instead I modified it so it has a female and male fosters on each end with the clamp part cut off the block. So it is put in between the fill whip and the gun to bleed off the pressure with it after closing the needle valve to retain the HPA in the filter for more filling during that days filling routine.

I have a shoebox right now so it takes 15 to 20 minutes just to pressurize the filter so the needle valve helps me fill faster by not losing the HPA in the filter when switching from tank to tank or gun to gun.

Mike

[Bizill]

Once again I cannot embed on this forum.  What happened to just removing the "s" in "https"



I'll have to remove the cooling fan though as it's just gonna battle AGAINST the motor housing cooling fan that vents out the front and blows past the 1st stage pump.  Obviously I have only used my compressor once to fill my Taipan and didn't even study its workings.  So, fan will go or adapt it to fit otherwise.