eBay compressor

[Bizill]

bandg, I believe there's enough power to get the flow overhead.  I haven't even tried but I think it would be fine. 

I have available a 2 cooler fan size heat exchanger that's not being used but I'm just gonna go with ice in the bucket.  As far as flow around the head, I believe it's just a crappy aluminum heat sink, the type that comes on older fan-cooled intel I7 processors.  I've seen a pic and I'm thinking it'll work pretty well with the small volume the head's given compared to the larger Tuxing head.  I don't think there were "channels" per se, but from the looks of it a lot of turbulence will be created in the water flow and that will aid in heat transfer.

I went looking for a picture of it but cannot find it.  I thought I read it on the TAG forum but may have been one here on GTA.

[Bizill]

I don't think there is enough temperature difference between the ambient air, 80°F and 60°C=140°F head temperature to make a difference cooling the coolant with the radiator.  Plus no one has measured the actual temperature of the discharged coolant so it should be less than 140°F.

I think that two containers with water/performance additive mix would work the best.  Start with one and when it gets close to 140°F, for example, move the pump and output hose to the other room temperature bucket.  Reusable ice packs couldn't hurt.

140°F head temperature really isn't that hot.  The 1st stage where someone said water sizzled on is where I would try to cool next.  That heat is definitely being transferred to the next stage.

Taso

You better believe it.  Like I said, I won't be keeping my pc fan mounted and touching that lower 1st stage line as it's HOT.  If I touched it any longer I'd burn myself.  This was the reason I initially wanted to go with the Tuxing setup.  Their big head water cools the lines from 1st to second stage where as the Yong Heng does not.  Yessir that heat is being transferred.  I don't see any good way of water cooling those exterior lines on the Yong Heng but some kind of aluminum heat sink might help but probably not as the air travels so fast through it that the hot air will never be cooled.

[Richard Lee]

I'm looking at pictures of the aluminum cylinder on top of the Yong Heng compressor,
and I assume that's the water-jacket HX (heat exchanger).
It's got some surface area where there aren't any connections,
and maybe a fin-type heat sink could be added..
I just googled 'heat sink for cylinder', images and there are a bunch of designs.
Even a solid aluminum band (no fins) heat sink could slow the heat saturation process.. 
 

[Buldawg76]

You could probably find a auto trans oil cooler at a junk yard cheap and it has round tubes like the hoses so no restriction of flow like a flat tube radiator would have and easier to connect the hoses to as well. With a fan on the cooler it would work well but best if its on the inlet side since no help cooling the outlet flow that just gets dumped back into the reservoir.

 

[Taso1000]

Bizill,

I don't have one of these compressors so I'm trying to find pictures online.  Does your compressor have aluminum water separators on the left and right side when viewed from the front?  Is the bottom black finned case aluminum or iron?

Maybe you can cool the aluminum water separators somehow.  Could you create some kind of shroud around the bottom black finned case to direct cooling air through the fins?  Maybe flipping your fan to draw air away from the fins?  Maybe if you got a head start on cooling the bottom case it would not reach the plastic melting temperatures you're seeing now.

I did find a youtube disassembly video of the compressor with the large diameter gold head.  But I can't tell how the water flows through.  All I see are these chrome cylinders.

Thanks,

Taso

[Bizill]

Yes, I have the dual water separators.  I'm not going to worry too much about the first stage anymore.  I really don't see any feasible way of cooling that compressed air.  I know that large 2 stage industrial compressors have cooling fins on them but not sure how much they help.  Now if I were to somehow place aluminum washers on the tiny compressors pipes it may have the same effect, but the air travels so fast through there that I don't think it would cool the air blast much, if at all.  No really good nor cost-effective way to water cool the lines.  I wouldn't want corrosion either.  I'm not sure what steel is used for those high pressure lines.  Stainless steel or some other type of metal???

I'll try to learn more when I actually get to using this compressor for more than a mere 2 minutes at a time.  I'd love to cool the air but don't think that's possible.  I do remember reading and seeing pictures where some places put your scba in a water bath whilst filling.  Perhaps that's something to look into.  But isn't that only done to get complete filling vs losing psi when the bottle comes down to ambient temp?  I'm still getting my learn on and have much to learn it seems.

[Killfire]

People with the yong heng could try swapping heads.
https://m.aliexpress.com/item/32796351747.html?spm=a2g0n.orderList.0.0.T3Q394#autostay
I do have a spare I may be willing to ship someone just to see if it fits and works.

Taso, I think the radiator will work well especially if ice is placed on it or a damp towel with fans. I'm going to measure the tubing id and purchase a radiator when I get home.

[bandg]

After noting the post about the added external fan fighting the flow from the motor fan I'm thinking leave the lower cylinder as is since it has the air flow from behind by the motor fan and mount the PC cooling fan on top of the enclosure (maybe on the carry handle or using one of the handle screws) blowing forwards across the upper stage and the hottest line. 

[Bob Pratl]

After a few hour of running time on my compressor and being worried about it's longevity do to overheating, I just ordered a radiator for the cooling lines and will be adding another cooling fan. Presently I have been using three freeze packs to the cooling tank which does help. On a hot day and after 5 minutes of running you can watch the head temperature rapidly rise from 28 deg C to 60 deg C in a matter of minutes. If it starts to run hot I shut it down and allow it to cool. The problem is that you have to bleed the air from the output side because the compressor does not like to start under a lot of head pressure and if you have a large filter, in the output, it starts to overheat as you are pressurizing the filter. My goal is to keep it cool to avoid shutting it down. The main problem is that this compressor has greatly spoiled me because I HATE hand pumping. When I can keep the pump cool I'll be cool. Bob

[Killfire]

Bob, I ordered a radiator as well. The hoses are 3/8" ID. Also adding a valve on the inlet side of the filter would allow you to only bleed the fill hose while maintaining pressure in the filter. Just a thought.

[Bob Pratl]

Bob, I ordered a radiator as well. The hoses are 3/8" ID. Also adding a valve on the inlet side of the filter would allow you to only bleed the fill hose while maintaining pressure in the filter. Just a thought.

Jason, that is exactly my plan and I am now in the process of selecting, from McMasters, a HP valve and fittings. Bob

[shultz]

Bob,

I really don't think a radiator is the answer here, I may be wrong though.

Before I went to the trouble and cost of adding a radiator, I try ONCE thru cooling. Get a couple of fittings for either a faucet or hose hook up to the intake side of the cooling head. put the discharge side in a drain and establish a flow about what the little pump currently does. If temps start raising, increase flow. Of course, the colder your tap water is the better.

I do think adding more cooling air that doesn't fight the fan on the motor is a great idea. Removing as much heat from the first stage as possible by increasing air volume across the fins has got to help..

[Bob Pratl]

Bob, I really don't think a radiator is the answer here, I may be wrong though. Before I went to the trouble and cost of adding a radiator, I try ONCE thru cooling. Get a couple of fittings for either a faucet or hose hook up to the intake side of the cooling head. put the discharge side in a drain and establish a flow about what the little pump currently does. If temps start raising, increase flow. Of course, the colder your tap water is the better. I do think adding more cooling air that doesn't fight the fan on the motor is a great idea. Removing as much heat from the first stage as possible by increasing air volume across the fins has got to help..

John, You may be 100% correct; but I think that anything that will extend the intervals between shut down and start up because of overheating is worth the try.
I will also take your advice in using a fan to cool the first stage. I have been thinking about adding a thermistor plus circuit, for auto shut down if over 65 deg C.
I know, I'm overthinking it but I want to keep it going efficiently .  Bob

[elguapo99]

Just a clarification of an earlier post about the thread size on the ends of the gold Xin Yong Shi HPA filter. Mine has M10 x 1.0 non-tapered threads. My Xin Yong Shi hand pump also uses the same thread size for the fill whip and quick disconnect. Most of the stuff coming out of China uses M10 x 1.0 for the fill whip/QD connections.

[shultz]

Robert,

THANKS!!! boy was I wrong, I would have never guessed 10x1.0 threads....

Time to empty my Ebay cart, NONE of the fitting's I had in there will work

[elguapo99]

On Friday I received my 110V Yong Heng pump that I ordered from Ebay 5 days prior. It was superbly packaged and included a rebuild kit of o-rings and piston rings. I filled it with synthetic compressor oil and let it run for a few minutes unrestricted and then connected my gold HPA filter with the end plugged and let it fill to 4500 psi. Everything worked fine with no leaks. I then filled my 30 minute SCBA tank from empty to 4000 psi. I did this in 500 psi intervals which took about 5 minutes per run and a cool down/line purge after each run. Keeping the unit under 50C was a challenge but I was able to accomplish it by using a 5 gal bucket filled with water and the entire contents of my refigerator's ice maker. The temp stayed around 47C as long as I had lots of ice in the bucket. The tampon in the black HPA filter that came with the compressor did get brown on the input side but stayed white on the output side. The gold filter did not appear contaminated. At the end of the fill session I again ran the compressor with no restriction to purge any water from the internals. As others have noted, the air lines that connect the various stages get very hot and I'm thinking that some type of fins attached to them may help dissipate some of the heat. I plan to use the compressor for topping off my SCBA's from 3000 to 4000 psi so my runs should be much shorter from here on in. So far I'm happy with the unit.

[shultz]

Bob,

I don't have much run time on my compressor because I'm still waiting on my high side filter to deliver...

It's starting to sound to me like, the heat issues, are caused by heat saturation of the ENTIRE cooling system.

Once the cooling water gets to a certain temp, it can no longer remove enough heat to make a difference. Adding a radiator may extend the time it takes to reach this point some what. Once thru will do so indefinitely given cool enough water and sufficient volume coming out of the tap. Only, IF the head is efficient enough to keep saturation from occurring given enough cooling.

I'm beginning to think, the cooling head is NOT efficient enough to deal with ALL the heat. So, adding more cooling air, that doesn't fight the existing motor fan, cooling the first stage and case, will also extend the time it takes to reach saturation, maybe even stop it completely...

Given enough cooling air and water, at some point, you should hit a temp that will stabilize, removing the ability of the heat generated to saturate the cooling system. Figuring out the combo that it takes to get here is the question....

[Bizill]

I had thought of mounting my pc cooling fan right in front of the handle on my Yong Heng as bandg had mentioned but it's already bulky to carry at the moment to placing a fan there for me will be a no-go.  If I devise a carrying rack on wheels, maybe.  But for now I'll just use a small desk fan to blow on it and may not even do that.

As far as cooling the air lines, one would need to disassemble the fittings and simply add washers of the perfect inside diameter to fit tight to the tube but those washers will not stay but with as much as this thing vibrates.  You could add tubular spacers between them, I suppose.  Or I'm sure there are two piece heat sinks that would bolt together to fit somewhere on the internet but I don't really want to screw with the lines.  It might help but by now I'm sure there are thousands of these compressors in use across the globe with nary a problem so forget the additional effort.  I think tentatively I will just be using a large volume of water with ice and a small fan to blow across the entire compressor and I'll be golden as my golden high pressure filter.

[kzz1kaw]

As stated in my past post, using the yong heng compressor as is has worked for me since April and gets used almost every day filling my guns that I shoot. I'm going to add the inline flow indicator as I have experience the water pump lost its prime. It is primed again and I think the flow indicator is a go idea to have. I have a clip on fan that I'm going to try to see if that made any difference. So far the compressor is doing the job for my needs. Glad I took a chance and bought this little compressor. If mine decides to go south, I would not hesitate to buy another as they are priced about the same as buying a hand pump. For now this compressor gets used more than my backup omega super charger which is on standby. If the super charger fails then I still have my hill pump to fill but that is my last line of desperation to fill and shoot😳 Going to the dark side is costly but worth it😎

[elguapo99]

Think I'll also stick with ice/ice packs for now. Seems to do the job and the fridge makes it while I sleep.